gr5

What is the yellow matieral? That's the problem I think. For some reason it's not working well. Is that breakaway? Breakaway should work well. Alternatively you could use PVA but it's important to get the calibration perfect so clean the nozzles at the start of the print - and clean the bed. PVA needs to be extremely dry. When it gets wet, steam bubbles get into the PVA and it doesn't work as effectively. It can be dried out but that can take a long time (e.g. in an electric oven with carefully controlled temperature at 80C for 24 hours and with the spool unwound a bit (loosened))

What kind of printer is that? Do you know what the acceleration and jerk settings are? Basically the extruder never stops. Or at least not instantly. So anytime you slow down or speed up you get over and under extrusion repectively. So what happens on corners is that the printer slows down for the corners. Ultimaker's solution (in the UMO and UM2) was to really crank up acceleration and jerk settings built into the printer so it barely slows down at all. The universal solution is to just print slow - printing at the jerk speed is usually slow enough as it means it won't have to slow down at all. Typical jerk settings for a printer is 20mm/sec so you can print at 20mm/sec and the corners will come out perfect. For most printers. You can certainly print faster and still get very good corners. Say 30mm/sec. If you want to keep good corners but speed up your prints, try increasing layer height and/or nozzle size. Now you have more issues - you have these overextruded layers - most likely your Z axis is not consistent. You can improve that a little by printing thicker layers but you should fix the root cause. What kind of printer is this? Typically this kind of result means you need to clean the Z screw(s). What is happening is that say your layer height is 0.1mm and it is instead sometimes moving only 0.05mm so it doubly over extrudes that layer and it squeezes out the sides and makes those lines. Then on the next layer it moves 0.15 or so. Overall it moves the right amount but the Z axis might be sticking a bit on some layers. Another solution (if you have a printer where the bed goes down as it prints) is to put a few bricks on the print bed.

Wait - those things are tiny? smaller than 1cm across? You should use a smaller nozzle. I'd use a 0.25mm nozzle for those. You can set line width at 0.2mm and use a .25mm nozzle and get great results. Make sure to print at least 5 at a time so that each one can cool while it's printing the others.

Definitely go with my #2 suggestion above then.

What error? I was going to say maybe you have too many triangles (millions) but an ear saver should only have a few hundred triangles. Explain the error in detail please. Maybe a screen shot? Maybe upload the log file?

STL file is the model. It's the description of the thing to print. It's a format that slicers (like Cura) understand. Most CAD programs have their own format as well which is more thorough (STL files don't include color for example). After slicing, the output of Cura is a gcode file which printers know how to deal with. gcode is the file ready to print on a particular printer. If you have a gcode sliced for an Ultimaker2+ it will work on other UM2+ but won't work (most likely) on Ultimaker 3 or S5 or a Prusa printer for that mater. Cura will however let you *open* gcode files so you can look at them. But you can't do anything else - you can't then convert it to work on another brand printer - you can just look the file over visually.

@Smithy

Understand that Cura is developed and paid for by Ultimaker and made free for all to use. It's also open source. Creality does not contribute any money to Cura or Ultimaker. A few printer manufacturers do contribute machine settings. If there is a bug in the Creality machine settings it should be fixed by Creality employees, not Ultimaker employees. Or Creality user's such as yourselves. Once you find the problem and the fix you can do a "pull request" where you submit the correction. Or you can create a bug report. However Creality employees don't seem to ever look at this forum. So they aren't likely to help you guys unless you contact them. And Ultimaker employees aren't likely to pay much attention to this thread either. But if you create an Issue (or even better a pull request) in the Cura git repository they will definitely notice that. Please be extremely specific (e.g. change M40 to G29... for this profile because...): https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues Anyway - my question to you Creality users: Where did you get the profile for your Creality printer? Did it come preloaded as part of Cura? Or did you create your own? I'm assuming it came preloaded. Whoever created the profile probably should have put in the G29 instead of the M420. Or maybe M420 used to work but something happened with the Creality firmware such that M420 is broken now? If you look ad the Creality profile in github (link above) you can see the name of the author(s) who created/edited it.

This only works if your part is identical on every layer. Like a vertical cylinder. Most parts are more complicated. So for example if you print something with a slope - like a pyramid - each layer higher up is smaller and you can't make the infill or support touch the walls perfectly on each layer if the support or infill are thicker layers than the outer surface. However there are indeed 2 features: infill layer thickness support infill layer thickness You must choose a value that is a multiple of the layer thickness. It might be that this feature is disabled if you use adaptive layers - not sure. "support infill layer thickness" doesn't affect most support patterns but it does affect some of them. and it only affects the inner layers.

eSun is quite cheap and is a decent filament. It's on amazon. Their quality used to suck years ago but it's been fine for the last few years. It's kind of funny to hear people spend a lot of money on an S5 and then want to save on filament. 🙂 In USA I recommend printedsolid.com. They are really good about filament and have some amazing deals occasionally. Their owners visit and test various filament manufacturers in the USA and have relationships. They know what's good and what isn't (almost everything is fine when it comes to basic PLA). I've tested many filaments. The best quality is Ultimaker in my opinion. Better than colorFabb. White filaments of all brands (and types, ABS, PETG, etc) are lower quality and harder to deal with (somethign about the additives to make white). Ultimaker S5 makes it a bit of a pain for someone new to deal with non-Ultimaker spools. I recommend you stick with Ultimaker for the first 10 spools. You have to have a bit of engineering in your soul to print with a 5kg spool for example. For example you can put the spool on the table or floor behind the printer. You can make a spool holder or just use a brick or something to keep it from rolling across the room.

It sounds like maybe ABL runs *concurrent* with other gcodes. Most gcodes don't continue onto the next one until it's complete but it sounds like ABL runs concurrently and this messes things up. tinkerGnome and I use Ultimaker printers so we don't know so much about Creality printers. This is sounding less and less like a Cura issue and more like a Creality issue. Does Creality have a forum like this where users help each other out? Maybe go over there and find the true, correct answer? And then post the answer here?

Y0 is the left edge of your print area. Y10.4 is 10.4mm from the edge so close to the left edge. Y104 is around the middle of the bed. I hate the vague assertions of what the gcode is for sure. We have one report that it is definitely 10.4 and I'd like to see some confirmations. If people could say for certain that such and such EXACT gcode that made the triangle is the same as what is posted on this list that would be helpful. I would expect "Y104" to make the triangle. not "Y10.4". Unless there is something wrong with the period (not a standard ascii period). Also the speed change "F gcode" might cause some kind of bug in your version of Marlin. So I still see 3 possibilities: 1) Cura has a problem but you guys posted the wrong gcode here. 2) Cura is putting non-ascii into the gcode file on the line that has "Y10.4". 3) Nothing wrong with Cura except that your printer can't handle speed changes in certain situations. I'm leaning to #3 still. I'm waiting for someone to remove the ".4" to test for #2 and waiting for someone to remove the speed change (the F gcode) to test for #3.

The printer will come with 2 AA 0.4 cores and one BB 0.4 core. The BB core's are for PVA only. The AA cores are for everything except PVA and abrasive filaments. I recommend avoiding the BB 0.8 core which wastes/uses a lot more PVA (PVA is more expensive). It's okay to have an AA 0.8 core on the left and a BB 0.4 core on the right. Cura can handle this no problem. Abrasive filaments should be avoided for people new to 3d printing but include: Cabron filled filaments, Fiberglass filled filaments, Steel filled filaments and glowfill. Most filaments are not abrasive (PLA, TPLA, ABS, Nylon, PP, CPE, PETG, TPU, PVA, PC).

Can you be more specific please? I'm pulling someone else into this.

1) Try the option in cura "print thin walls". 2) Try this version of cura - it is MUCH BETTER at printing thin walls. It was created by someone active on this forum, @burtoogle who doesn't work for Ultimaker but has made many contributions to Cura: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s43vqzmi4d2bqe2/AAADdYdSu9iwcKa0Knqgurm4a?dl=0&lst=

Well let us know what the "correct" start gcode is please so other's who have an A8 will know. BTW, Did you mark the stepper shaft and it's pulley like I suggested? I have to tell you I have seen this issue many hundreds of times on this forum and it's usually a loose pulley and you wouldn't be the first person who took 3 tries before they finally tightened the correct pulley and did it tight enough to not slip. It could be simply that the acceleration parameters for your X axis are set too high in Cura but by default Cura shouldn't be messing around with your printers acceleration settings. Make sure "acceleration control" in Cura is unchecked. I have no idea what "xyx code" is.

Der Steppertreiber wird zu heiß. Möglicherweise müssen Sie den Strom senken. Ich bin nicht sicher, ob dies auf UMO + funktioniert, aber dieser Gcode könnte funktionieren (es funktioniert auf UM2, aber ich bin nicht sicher über UMO +): M907 Z900 ;900mA Der Standardwert liegt bei 1200 mA, aber Ultimaker empfiehlt jetzt 900 mA

I can see you have an Ultimaker S5. The front is a cooling fan only for the mechanics inside the head. The fans that cool the part are on the sides. So print the parts left to right and space them about the same distance as half the head width. This will only help a little versus what you did but every little bit of cooling helps. You can also lower the bed temp to 55C instead of 60C and lower the nozzle temp by at least 5C. Maybe lower by 10C at the end. The S5 tuning menu lets you lower up to 25C (versus default) live while you print. geert_2 has good advice here. Also keep the front doors open and print near the front edge. Also white seems to be the most difficult color to print (all materials). It has a huge amount of additives to get the color. If you print in a darker color you might have better luck.

WTF? I've never heard of that. I don't think there is such an option in cura (only front left or center). This is so bizarre - there are thousands of printer makers out there and I've never heard of this. Oh - 3d systems. That's... ancient. One hack would be to mirror image the Y axis in the part - you can uncheck the lock in the scale menu and then set the Y scale to -100% (negative 100%). That will do it - the view in cura will be mirror image still but at least the part will come out correct.

Wow. I suspect the model in this case.

I had the same issue and I just moved the limit switch a bit. Maybe the switch isn't working at all? You can home manually in the menu - make sure it's stoping at the limit switch and not going farther. Also make sure that the rods going through the head are perpendicular - sometimes one of the 4 long belts slips s tooth.

@alokpant - please don't print 1.75mm filament in an Ultimaker printer. There are conversion kits but you will get the best results if you stick with "3mm" (actually 2.85 to 2.9mm) filament.

It shouldn't but I recommend you do a FACTORY RESET. You upgraded the firmware, right? Sometimes when you update firmware, some of the settings (e.g. nozzle purge location) get messed up. Unfortunately you will have to relevel and it will try to get you to start a print (once it is warming up you can abort). And you will lose any custom material settings you may have created (if you mess around with that kind of thing).

@meskan - geert is showing how the right 2 prints are better with towers but still not perfect. In general, more towers is better - it gives the print more time to cool. If you only do one tower, the printer will print that point on the model 2 layers before going to the tower and doing 2 layers. But if you load the tower first, then your model, then a second tower, then your print will only do one layer before going over to the tower and letting the print cool. One can also lower the printing temperature. I would think printing slow would be worse as the nozzle is heating the part more. Fan is definitely your friend. You can even use a desk fan to increase cooling.

for blender normals: https://www.katsbits.com/codex/flip-normals/ Okay - now that I read the rest of your post you seem to understand normals. But something is wrong with your model. I can't tell because the walls are so thin I can't see them. There may be extra walls that confuse cura. I strongly recommend you install and run the cura mesh plug in. It really should be installed automatically by default.