gr5

So I tried slicing benchy in 4.0 and got the same result as you. I set "support X/Y distance" and also "minimum support X/Y distance" to zero and the support reached up to the top of those tiny shelves. So it's not a bug - it's a feature. It keeps the support from touching the hull of benchy or the walls of the wheel house (which are not vertical - they tilt out a bit). But really I would turn off support for benchy. Benchy does not need any support.

I think this has to do with one of the support settings - for example: X/Y overrides Z, if enabled would do just this X/Y support distance, if too large might do this I think Check your setting "support distance priority". Maybe type "support" in that setting search box and take a screen shot of just the settings that appear.

I don't know but you should realize that Benchy is meant to test your printer and it is meant to be printed without any supports. Cura is paid for by Ultimaker which sells printers but gives Cura away for free. The Creality is a competitor of Ultimaker. Creality should be testing Cura and customizing it for the Ender printer (with an Ender printer profile). Testing should be done by Creality. Not Ultimaker.

Corrected my post, thanks.

I don't think the UM3 dropped in price when the S5 came out. Maybe the UM2 did. Things tend to move slower than you are used to with Ultimaker - they want to get things perfect. And they don't want to come out with a new printer and have everyone want to return the old one (actually they often let you return a printer that you bought within a month of the announcement - don't know if they will do that this time though). So think of this announcement as likely at least a month before they are for sale. Apple just announced the iphone11 but I don't think it will be available for quite a while. Okay I checked and Apple ships a few weeks from now. But VW just announced the ID.3 car and that I think will indeed be many months before it ships. Anyway, you should really talk to your reseller. They will know things like this.

resin printer!??? that would be cool. But didn't all the images show bowden tubes? Hmm. Resin printer with bowden tubes??? Seems unlikely?

@orionz06 - keep in mind that when new products are announced they don't necessarily ship within a few months. I think when the S5 came out it didn't ship until about a month later. I think the *announcement* can be well before the *release*. So I'm not sure you want to delay any purchases. Maybe call your reseller and ask them for advice. They might know what's coming. They won't tell you but they can tell you if you should wait or not.

Well for example I suspect you have a "cone" inside a "cone" and that they are somehow interfering or confusing cura. In the STL file all the data is stored in unordered triangles with a "normal". Unordered is important - cura has to figure out which triangles go with which and sometimes can get it wrong. The "normal" is also important. It's supposed to define "solid side" versus "air side" of each triangle. It could be that your normals are backward on the outer or an inner surface and that is confusing Cura also. Wait - Fusion 360? It should be very hard to create those "red" areas in fusion 360. Maybe just union everything together? I dont' know fusion 360 very well but I know it's pretty good about creating manifold models. Normally.

There are also some "mesh" repair options. Search for the "mesh" features in Cura. But ideally you want to fix these issues at the origin - in CAD.

Okay - so that model has serious issues. Did you create it in CAD? If so what did you use? If you did not create it then definitely just run it through netfabb free repair service (you have to create a free account first): https://service.netfabb.com/login.php It's important that your CAD models are manifold. That they don't have holes. That edges come together. That there isn't internal geometry that you don't want to be part of the model. These are important details. Most CAD takes care of this automatically. Some don't. CAD that is designed only to make animations don't care if seams don't quite meet together. CAD that is designed to make parts takes care of that kind of thing automatically.

You are just going to have to print samples. Many things will change the diameter - most importantly how far the pin is above the heated bed as temperature drops as you get farther from the hot glass. Some points. 1) In general for pins you should get what you ask for. Unlike vertical holes. Because your pins are 100% filled, there's no where for the filament to go. 2) If you print a single pin it won't have much ability to cool down so you should always print at least two so that one can cool for a few seconds while it prints the other. 3) Unlike PLA, Nylon is likely to have bad layer adhesion so the pin may be quite weak if printed vertically. This should not stop you from printing vertically. Instead you should enclose the printer (throw a sheet over it) to try to get the air temp up to maybe 30 or 35C. Also lower the fan as low as possible but where it is around 1/4 the volume of full speed. Typically 3% for an S5 (or 6% for Um3 or 30% for UM2 - every model and even different versions of the same model will be different on this). 4) Break a few pins. On purpose. Print some extras. If they break along layer lines your adhesion is probably not good enough (need to lower fan some more or raise air temp some more or both). I would not print horizontally but that will certainly give you the strongest possible pin but will require lots of PVA potentially.

The red areas are bad but aren't what is causing your problem. Pictures are quite blurry but it looks like it's not printing a few layers at the base of the nose cone. Do you agree? It would help to do "color scheme" "line type" and also to zoom in more. You can zoom with the scroll wheel. It looks like you have a huge amount of infill. You don't need that unless your goal is to make the part heavier. It will not increase strength. You get most of the strength from the outer shell. This is unrelated however.

Another cause is if the holes through one of your pulleys is not centered. Push the print head around and see if maybe one of the 10 pulleys is wobbling. Make sure to look at all 12. Count as you go. There's 8 on the long belts and 4 on the short belts.

This is common - usually caused when one of the 4 longs belts slips a tooth. This fix is pretty easy. So look down from above at your print head - look to see if the two rods look perpendicular. Also push the head around to the 4 sides of the printer and watch the side blocks. Do the 2 moving side blocks reach the end of travel at the same moment? If not your rods are not perpendicular. To fix, loosen two pulleys - for example two pulleys on one of the belts. (or one on each belt). Note how tight the set screw is by the way. Then adjust so things are perpendicular and tighten the hell out of the two set screws that you had loosened. Very very tight.

I don't see how it could be alignment related. The X and Y steppers should be getting the exact same commands (same exact X and Y coordinates) and the gantry is doing the same thing each time so it should line up. It's common if you have a little underextrusion or something (maybe the bed is bouncing too much) that the liquid PLA acts like snot (like a liquid rubber band) and takes a "short cut" and prints *inside* the desired location. This is why vertical holes in your parts tend to be 0.5mm smaller. So the height that this happens has to do with temperature for sure - the air is warmer closer to the bed. And air currents. There may be an air conditioner or a fan creating a particular flow pattern of air even if the fan is very far away. Also the fan comes on at full speed on the printer around the 5th layer (it increases gradually on each layer change until the 5th layer). So each time it does the nozzle cools a bit and it underextrudes a little. Briefly. But it should only underextrude by maybe 3% or so. Normally negligable. Suggest solution: I would just make the wall thicker - in Cura set "horizontal expansion" to 0.3mm to get that wall from 0.8 thick to instead 1.4mm thick. Actually I would measure the ACTUAL wall thickness with a micrometer. If you desire 0.8 and the wall is 0.6 then you could just set Horizontal expansion to 0.1. Alternatively - slow it way down - print at half speed. Or set flow rate to 110%. It could also be that you are near the end of the spool so friction is high in the bowden and putting on a new spool will fix this issue. There are many things that can lower extrusion by 5% and if you do too many at the same time it can cause problems like the one you see. So those are few ideas: horizontal expansion, slow it down, flow rate to 110% (don't go higher than 110%), put on a new spool, raise nozzle temp by 5 degrees. All of those things will produce thicker walls.

So the answer depends how far up this is. 1) Would you say it's on layer 1 or 2? Or is it happening more than 0.5mm from the glass. 2) Is this PLA? 3) How does it look in preview mode? Does it look thinner in this area versus other parts of the circle? 4) How thick is it in CAD? Is it at least 0.8mm wide? It's recommended to have wall widths in CAD be 2X the nozzle size but you can definitely print thinner. My thoughts: Non PLA materials have lots of splitting issues that are easily avoided. It could be underextruding It could be just too thin

I suppose alternatively you might have a massive amount of backlash or play. When printer is off, how far can you push the nozzle before the steppers start moving? It should be around 0.1mm but if the above is caused by play it would have to be at least 3mm of play.

I think something might be wrong with your model. Look at your part more carefully in PREVIEW mode. I suspect it looks the same where the walls aren't connected to the "core" of your part. Please show screenshots of Cura showing the layer half way up and the layer at the top of this part. Also while in PREVIEW mode on the left top area change from "layer view" to "xray view". Anything in red is a problem with your model.

Everything looks fine. What is "split" exactly? You have two cylinders - one inside the other. Quite far apart. Isn't that what you want? How does it look different in PREVIEW mode in Cura?

I don't understand. It works and it doesn't work? Can you explain again? 15.04.6 is old but it is a good version. It should work fine on windows 7.

I print a lot of Nylon and PVA works extremely well with Nylon. I bought a box of 2 gallon zip locks. I keep one or two spools in each bag. I also bought these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JOPJ0HA/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_pGpDDb61T4H25 Which are rechargable. When they lose their red color I microwave them. Then I just put the spools on the printer. If humidity is > 60% you might want to keep the spool in the bag. I did that a few times but haven't done that in the last year and the filament works great. I have had a few spools get "wet" when I left them out for a few weeks but it was easy enough to dry them (put them on the heated bed overnight under a towel). When filament gets very wet you can hear it pop and fizzle as the steam boils as you print. Or if it's only a little wet the nylon comes out more like snow instead of transparent. I'm not sure why anyone needs to buy a "vegetable dryer" when the printer has this built in temperature controlled heated bed. Oh - and like Smithy says, no need to use the NFC chip. It takes maybe 4 extra seconds to scroll down to Nylon and select that.

The 3dsolex core with the "everlast" nozzles is great but again you want to harden the feeder. The best and cheapest option is to get the bondtech DDG feeders for the UM3. Unfortunately you kind of have to update both feeders because the UM3 firmware doesn't allow a different steps/mm value for the 2 extruders. Although you could do a hack where you adjust the flow on just the left feeder.

dfrez told me more details through DM. Note that it boots up and displays proper menus but no servos move and when he connects it to a computer through a USB cable, the windows computer doesn't recognize that anything is connected: no musical tones even though other devices do make the musical tones when connecting to USB. That alone tells me at least part of the board is dead because USB should work. Another test is to power down the UM2 and connect only through the USB to see if that powers up some lights. Because this is the summer, I doubt the damage would be from static electricity. More likely some kind of short that damaged several circuits inside the arduino.

Make sure "enable bridge settings" is unchecked. Also please include screen shots of cura that show what you are talking about. Or do you only care about the top layer. Also which "infill pattern" did you choose in the settings?

Well I haven't used auto leveling for a few years. I don't recommend it. So that's one solution - just do manual leveling. It's more accurate and more dependable and it won't make the bottom of your part tilted if you do manual leveling. Other things to try - the leveling screws may be too loose or too tight. Usually too tight. It's important that the springiness of the bed is less than the spring force in both cores. You need the bed to move before the core does or it will misread the contact. You can also see this happening when it's leveling - the head should stop moving down right when it hits the glass. If it keeps going for 2 more seconds then that's a serious problem. Also open the front door on the head and look for 2 wires in the bottom of the door that is now swung open. Usually a red one and a white wire. Give them a very gentle tug. If either wire broke then that's the problem. Also leveling is very sensitive to EMI so don't touch the printer during autolevel and keep any computers/electronics a foot or more away from the printer curing autolevel.