gr5

Did you try the oil? That works really well for me for ninjaflex which is the most flexible filament I've used. Similar to a rubber band.

since 0.6 layer height works and 0.8 does not I would go with 0.5mm layer height for the entire print and see if that works. I would stick with 1mm line width since you are using a 1mm nozzle. I would also play with the print speed while it's printing. I think that printer is marlin based and has a TUNE Menu for you to mess with print speed while printing. You can get larger nozzles. I sell for example a 2mm nozzle that works with 1.75mm filament (seems impossible? lol it works). It works because the nozzle narrows to two 1mm passages for the filament to flow through before reaching a larger chamber and then going out through the 2mm opening.

No. I'm pretty sure you did not try this. I just tried it for 2.85mm and 4mm diameter filament and it worked perfectly. I think you changed it in material settings. That is the wrong place to change it. Please read my instructions again. So I sliced twice for the two sizes and saved both times as a gcode file then opened up the gcode file and the E values (extruder position) changed by roughly 2X. So it definitely works.

Below where it says "marketplace" in black there is a bar/button thing you click on and something pops up beneath it. At the bottom of that box is a blue button that either says "custom" or "recommended" click on that until it says "recommended". Now hopefully it is visible. If not try entering the letter Z in the search box just above the quality bar.

I recommend you just mess with flow if you only have one or two spools like this but here you go: Make sure you are in PREPARE mode (at the top of the screen). Click on your printer on the left, select "manage printers..." select "machine settings", click on "Extruder 1" tab. Change it there. I think potentially you could have 2 printers shown in cura with 2 different filament diameters. You might additionally have to create materials with the same filament diameter - not sure - I think not - I think you only change it in printer settings. I've never done this myself.

go to 3dsolex.com. They have 1.75mm conversion kits for UM2. The UM2 "plus" feeder can grip and push 1.75mm just fine as is. The absolute minimum is to modify just the teflon part so it's possible you could just buy that only. But I recommend you get the whole kit which includes a heater block as well.

@burtoogle?

So cura 4.2.1 I think was released today and it fixes this critical bug that caused issues for people with creality printers? Something to do with the z hop feature.

Also you will need to print probably 5 benches at a time - this gives each bench time to cool before the print head comes back and deposits another layer.

It will *not* work to print a 0.1mm line width using a 0.4 nozzle. You can go down to about 0.35 with a 0.4 nozzle. Did you try 0.2? 0.3? 0.35? Where EXACTLY does it stop working? Again, make your "wall width" an exact multiple of nozzle size when using cura 15.X. Always. If it works with 0.2 then you could get a 0.25 nozzle. You will want it anyway if you are printing lots of HO scale stuff.

right in 15.X it's called "nozzle width". Set that to 0.1 to see if it slices. Make sure the "shell" thickness is a multiple of the nozzle size. Cura 15 picks a line width invisibly based on these 2 values. For example if you pick nozzle size of 1mm and shell width of 2.2mm then cura will pick a line width of 1.1mm because that's the closest good choice to the nozzle size.

Did you reinstall the plugin? You might have to delete everything in the cura settings folders (something like %appdata%/cura/ on windows machines) while cura is not running, then restart cura and it will recreate all the default settings - like a fresh install.

I just hope you didn't damage any of the circuit boards in your printer - either the one in the print head or the "marlin" one underneath.

Cut off any wires that aren't behaving. Or twist them together and add a little bit of solder to hold them together.

What kind of printer do you have? Yes it affects things negatively. A little bit. It changes the flow rate for one thing so you may be over or underextruding (I think? Because you squish it down and *then* feed it at a given rate?). Unless it's slipping at the feeder I would reduce the tension for flexible filaments What kind of printer is this?

So cura prints the bottom layer by default at a different thickness than the remaining layers. This is a bit of a wild guess but I'm guessing your bottom layer is something like 0.4mm thick and your second layer is 0.8mm thick and the nozzle just can't pump that much material that fast. So first thing: Check bottom layer thickness. Also the printer usually prints the bottom layer at a different speed and the fan usually turns on at the second layer. So I'm guessing one of those 3 things is switching the printer into a mode where it just can't push hard enough on that filament. Flexibles are more difficult than hard filaments. In addition you can print much faster if you add some oil to the filament. It seems bizarre but it works very well and the oil doesn't interfere at all with the print (this advice is for flexible filaments only). About one drop per meter is about right. You have to keep oiling it every 20 minutes or so and you have to unspool a meter or so of filament (put the back of the printer over the edge of a table so the filament can droop down to almost the floor).

I suspect the walls are too thin. Set the "line width" in cura 15.X to 0.1mm or even 0.01mm to see if it then is happy to slice that bench. Then if it does, try increasing the line width until it will no longer slice. If it will slice with a 0.2mm line width then you can slice it in the latest cura (cura 4.X) by checking the box "print thin walls". Even better, purchase a smaller nozzle. If you are going to be printing lots of small stuff like this you should get a smaller nozzle anyway. I sell 0.1, 0.15, 0.25mm nozzles for all Ultimaker printers and these work for about 95% of the printers out there. Does monoprice mini have the standard M6 standard thread? If so then you can use any of the "UM2" nozzles here: https://thegr5store.com/store/index.php/um2-noz.html For you all in Europe try 3dsolex.com for small nozzles.

I can't read the error message. what does it say?

I think you have 2 unrelated issues. In these photographs - all the areas that don't look perfect are over extruded a bit. I could be wrong - it could be that there is something in the layers below to cause it to stick up but if so please show the very first layer instead. The other issue you mention, "back left corner curls". I assume you mean the corner of the part lifts off the bed? The glass is not flat. It's thicker in the middle - this is the nature of how tempered glass is manufactured. Becuase it's levelled at 3 positions it should be perfect just above the 3 screws. combine that fact with the fact that the center is highest and you get 2 low spots: one in rear left and one in rear right corners. When the nozzle is a bit too high off the bed then you don't get good "squish" and so the part doesn't stick very well at all. I'm not sure what the solution is. You could buy some normal glass I suppose. Or you could reverse bend the bed (but don't break the traces for the heater!) by bending the rear corners up (the glass actually will bend to a flat position with very little force - only an ounce or so is needed). I guess the simplest thing would be to raise the rear center of the glass by turning the leveling screw a half turn. You'll get it overly squished in the rear center but it's probably worth it.

Layer 2 looks fantastic. But a few layers later - maybe lary 5? 10? Not sure but it looks underextruded. For this to only happen 1mm or so above the bed implies it's probably something with the Z control. The bed is probably not moving far enough on some layers and then moving too far on other layers. When it doesn't move enough you get slight over extrusion and then when it moves too much you have a gap with underextrusion. There's a small possibility this is a temperature issue as well but I doubt it as the second layer looks great. The fan comes on at the begining of the second layer and the temperature sometimes drops and you might get a little underextrusion but this looks much worse than typical. I would try cleaning the Z screw. Especially near the top (where it's in the Z nut while printing the first mm of your parts). If this didn't used to do this then it's likely dirt. Note that the screw thread is triple helix so putting your fingernail or a qtip or something in one thread is great but you have to make sure you get all 3 threads. I quick test is to use a fingernail or popsicle stick or something covered with a tissue or napkin or something - stick it in the thread and then push the bed down which will get it to spin. Remove as much grease as you can. If you only clean the top half of the thread then there is no need to add more grease. One pea sized drop is plenty for the entire thread. If you want to clean it extra well, it's pretty easy to remove the 4 screws on the bottom of the printer that hold the z stepper in, also remove the Z stepper cable from the circuit board and then pull the Z screw (it's permanently attached to the stepper) out through the bottom. Spray with WD40 and clean with rags (or paper towels). After it's completely clean add just one pea sized drop of that green grease that comes in a little tube with your Ultimaker.

If your "holes" aren't sticking on the first layer it's most likely because the nozzle is too far from the print bed. What kind of printer do you have? You want to move the bed closer to the nozzle for that bottom layer. You want more "squish".

So I've seen several printers that do this - they are all old. They've all printed kilometers of filament. I think you can safely ignore it for another year or so. I've heard some people say that the plastic that holds the motors bends slowly over the years and then the belt isn't as straight as ideal and the noise somehow comes form the belt maybe? Or from the steppers? I don't know but I know a few printers that do this and they still print great. If you push the head around by hand and listen, then loosen the 4 screws that hold the motor in place the sound goes away. That still doesn't tell me what causes the sound. It could be bearings, motor, or belt.

You may have damaged your electronics inside the print head. You wired it up properly otherwise it either would not heat up or it would not read back a temperature. What you did wrong is you created a short somehow. There are 5 contacts - there are 4+3+2+1 or 10 possible shorts. Check every combination. The left two pads should be the heater so around 25 ohms. The right two pads should be the sensor so around 109 ohms at room temperature. ALL other combinations should show as an open (certainly > 200 ohms). The short would have to be less than 5 ohms to cause the heater to not stop heating up. MOST likely location for the short is between where the right hand heater wire is right next to the left hand sensor wire. There's probably a tiny tiny strand of wire bridging the gap there.

I'd like to see what it looks like before you tried to remove the part. I want to see if there is clear underextrusion on layer 2. Cura changes several things on the lower levels: fan, speed, layer height. It could be that on the second layer the combination of those values is bad but by a higher level it recovers. Or you could have bad layer adhesion (I've never heard of this with pla. Never! but it's quite common with all higher temp filaments which is basically all filaments other than PLA). You said this is wood fill PLA? Leveling the bed doesn't affect 2nd layer much - mostly it should only affect the bottom layer. Certainly by the time you are on the 3rd level, leveling shouldn't make any difference. If you level bed too high, the bottom layer gets squished a lot, then the second layer hardly at all and the 3rd layer is fully in a steady state. If you level bed too low the bottom layer is underextruded and might not stick at all and might not be the right shape, then the second layer recovers mostly and by the 3rd layer it should be fine. By the way I prefer to level such that I get that elephants foot thing but I set "initial horizontal expansion" to -0.3 to counteract the elephants foot thing. This does not work well with certain shapes (like teeth of gears will almost disappear on the bottom level) but it's my default setting for 90% of prints.