gr5

I have tons of advice but I need to know what software you used. Here's a tiny piece of advice, look at it in xray mode - first make sure you are in "preview" mode (at the top center) and then on the upper left switch from "layer view" to "xray view". If you see any red colors then that is the problem. Shades of blue and white are good.

This is common with certain cad software. Did you use sketchup? What cad software did you use?

sketchup is not great at making 3d models but you can do it if you follow these tips. Actually #9 is the most common problem and takes second to fix but you could have issues 4 through 9 as well. Unlike sketchup, most cad programs don't let you do ANY of these errors (#4 through #9): https://i.materialise.com/blog/3d-printing-with-sketchup/ Follow the above link and read all that. It looks like a lot but it's actually pretty simple and straightforward. Also in the future - for next time - I'm told that when using sketchup always use these 2 plugins: cleanup3 (may be 4 now) Solid inspector. Both of these plugins remove any problems with the model unseen by the eye and turn it into a solid model.

Your STL file is defective. Did you create it yourself? If so, what CAD software did you use? I have tons of advice but I need to know what software you used. Here's a tiny piece of advice, look at it in xray mode - first make sure you are in "preview" mode (at the top center) and then on the upper left switch from "layer view" to "xray view". If you see any red colors then that is the problem. Shades of blue and white are good.

I know. It sucks. Sorry. There's lots of ways to do this - none of them from the front panel on the S5. One option is to take the printer to a network somewhere that has DHCP. Make sure the printer is in "developer mode". You can then ssh into the printer (username/password = root/ultimaker). Then you can use connman to setup any tcp/ip settings you can possibly imagine both for wired and wireless. There is tons of info on connman if you google. Another option is to use a crossover cable and connect the printer to a computer directly where both are off network. You have to have the computer support DHCP server though so the printer can get an ip address. Note that when the printer has an IP address it will display this address on the top of the screen on the printer. As long as you are in "developer mode". You could use a small hub instead of a crossover cable. You could take it home and plug it into a home ethernet network. Or a home wireless network. But there is no way to do this from the front panel. Note that there is more information on connman on page 1 of this topic.

That's relatively normal. There is something called "retraction" which is turned on by default in cura. It retracts the filament a little bit when the print head goes over a gap. If you retract too much you get air in the nozzle and you get over and underextrusion. If you retract too little you get little strings across gaps where you don't want them. Basically the print will be most perfect if you never speed up or slow down the printing speed but sometimes you have to stop when you go across a gap. Cura by default does lots of speed changes which can cause under and overextrusion each time there is a speed change. So I always make all the printing speeds the same (but the non-extruding "travel moves" as fast as possible).

Oh right. I forgot about those files. I've never used that feature - I save as "3mf" file instead (just do file, save and that's the default). So I'm 90% sure you can read the curaprofile file. Look at it again in notepad more carefully. It may look ugly or a little hard to read but if you relax and read slowly it should be quite readable. Then you can just set those settings manually in cura.

Another solution is to spin the fan by hand when it gets to layer 5 and once started it should keep going.

So this problem is combination of three issues: 1) Fan will run at 7% but only if you "kick start" it. 2) Cura starts fan slowly from 0% to "full fan" (in your case 7%) gradually over several layers (typically first 5 layers). 3) Marlin firmware on CR10 kick starts fans but only when going from 0% to "on". Not when going from 5% to 7% (it should kick start every time). The kick start feature built into marlin puts the fan at 100% for maybe 1/10th second. Please reread those 3 a few times until you understand the issue. If you don't understand why those 3 things above cause the problem, maybe play with your fan in the menu. Try going from 0% to 7% then try from 3% to 7%. Big difference! Okay so one fix is to change cura settings so that it goes to "full" fan in only 1 layer instead of 5 layers. That's probably the simplest fix. A better fix is probably to never go down to 7% - that's probably too low - try 30%. What are you printing? ABS? Nylon? If you are printing PLA you want it on 100%. A 3rd fix would be for someone to fix Marlin so it does the kick start feature on every increase in fan speed (not just when it first turns on).

That seems extremely specific - that underextrusion. It goes from good extrusion to massive (maybe only 20% extrusion) underextrusion (80% less than normal). Well first thing to try is to slow it down. You can experiment live printing - most printers have a TUNE menu while it's printing where you can reduce the print speed to say 50%. By default I think cura prints infill at 2X speed so it could be this is where it switches from infill to outer wall and it takes a few seconds to get back up to pressure. It could be your infill is even worse underextruded. I'd look at the part in preview mode in cura carefully to see what's going on here. use the "play" feature and the horizontal scroll to see exactly the path the head makes.

This topic is almost a year old and the software list is no longer very helpful but you can get cura 15.X here: https://gr5.org/Ultimaker_Cura-15.04.06.exe

The only thing I can think of is print speed is too high. When cura prints circles it prints slower for smaller circles. but only if your print speed is quite high. When you see those bumps/vibrations, try lowering the speed - most printers let you lower the speed live. Typically in a "TUNE" menu. Try printing at half speed for a few layers to see if those bumps go away. You should also consider trying a different color. White is the most difficult filament to print because of the heavy amount of additives (e.g. chalk). It might be better to print some darker color (like gray) and then paint the parts white afterward. Is this PLA?

Is the profile an "ini" file? If so you need cura 15.X which you can get here: https://gr5.org/Ultimaker_Cura-15.04.06.exe If the profile is a "3mf" file you can just open it with any text editor and jump to the bottom. The last few lines of the file explain the profile in human readable terms. Just read slowly and carefully.

I have no idea why you are underextruding but want to correct some misunderstandings. According to eSun's specifications, PLA+ is not any stronger then their PLA. It's a little bit stiffer which should make it more brittle but it's not much different than regular PLA as far as mechanical properties. Ultimaker's "tough" pla is in the opposite direction - it is more flexible and slightly weaker than regular PLA. Because of the higher flexibility it is much tougher. So if you drop something that is "tougher" it is less likely to crack/break and more likely to bounce. If you make something that is extremely flexible (think rubber bands, rubber shoes) then it is so tough you can drive over it with a car and not break it. It will just deform. Nylon tends to be like this (much tougher than pla or abs). But being flexible is not usually a good quality. Being "tough" is not necessarily a good quality. Often we care more about strength. You woudn't want a "tough" material for gear teeth or wrench or quadcopter arm, or many other structural designs.

I'm confused. I thought you were talking about actually physically moving the bed up and down on your printer. But now you are talking about zooming? So scroll wheel zooms in and out. For the remaining, make sure no parts are selected and click away from any parts on the bed: Also you can hold down left and right mouse buttons and drag. That zooms in and out (oops only old versions of cura) Also you can use keyboard + and - keys to zoom in and out if you don't have scroll wheel on your mouse. Also you can right click and drag to orbit around from different angles Also you can shift+right click to pan around. Also you can use up/down/left/right arrows to orbit around I think there are more options if you have a middle button (or if your scroll wheel is clickable). My scroll wheel is not clickable and I only have a 2 button mouse. It's critical for me to use all 3 techniques (zoom, orbit, pan).

I made these with a 0.15mm nozzle. I printed all of them at the same time so that each one while being printed allowed the other's to cool. It looks more impressive in real life.

I think you are simply printing infill too fast. Your "print speed" is 60 but I believe the infill runs at double the normal speed? At any rate try lowering the speed by about 2X. You can do this on the fly from the TUNE menu (I think the A8 has this feature). If you do it during the print then you can experiment with different speeds on the same print and save a lot of time.

Is this happening on walls that are tilted? Overhangs? if so then this is very common and you can probably ignore it. The cure is usually more fan but by default your fan should be at 100% already so you can probably ignore it.

Please show screenshots of the model in layer view and also "prepare" view that highlights the problem you are seeing. Maybe post your 3mf file as well (if you do FILE SAVE) it creates a 3mf file which has all your settings and your model in one file.

In this same "preview mode" to the left of that option and on the next bar down change "Layer iew" to "X-Ray view". Is there any red at all? Zoom in near the error areas. If it's all shades of blue and white then your model is solid/manifold. If you see any red then there is a problem with the cad model. Some problems don't show up in xray view but that's a good start. Another possibility is that your wall is too thin in this spot. Either try reducing the "line width" or try checking "print thin walls". Or both. Just to see what happens.

The guy who runs 3dsolex, @swordriff, is just very busy. I told him the length for the S5 bowden but creating a new product can easily take a few hours (new labels, new numbers, get photographs, descriptions, create some inventory, etc) and he is a very busy person and stressed out. But maybe this topic will get him to create a super slip S5 Bowden.

One is "pva natural" and the other "pva". See if there is a "PVA Natural" option in the list of materials to choose. If not then you can fix it in Cura.

Fixed. If you choose S5/UM3 spare parts the super slip is shown even though it only fits the UM3 but if you select "ULTIMAKER S5 PRODUCTS" it no longer shows the super slip version.

Yeah I don't have a super slip for the S5. It would be the same material (teflon) but different length. Last I checked, 3dsolex didn't have a super slip for the S5. Next time I put in an order with 3dsolex (in about a month) I'll check to see if they offer it now but I suspect not.

Oops. I'll fix that now...