gr5

Well here is the other way to update it - through the USB stick: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52601-update-the-firmware

Maybe it's being blocked then from reaching Ultimaker? Or maybe Ultimaker disabled the update (I strongly doubt that).

I think that means you have no network connection. I think there is a way to upgrade through the USB drive if you can't get the internet working. Also I think those are grayed out during printing but I assume you weren't printing at this moment that you took the photos.

So this is most likely some kind of electronics error where the arduino in your printer (I think ender3 uses marlin and arduino) is having trouble reading the gcodes but recovers. But to be sure you can verify that there is nothing wrong with the gcode. Whenever you slice make sure to save the gcode "forever". I can't tell you how many times I've gone back to look at 1 day old, or 1 month old or 5 year old gcode files because I forgot what settings I had used for some part that someone later asks me about or that I asked myself about ("What the hell layer height did I use for this part again?"). Even better do "file" "save" as well which saves the project file which has even more information. I alway slice and save both gcode file and 3mf file together so I can always go back and look at what I did. Anyway when you have a problem with a gcode file you can then take the SD card (if that's how you printed) and reverify that the file was not corrupted. You can also examine the gcode file withe cura or other methods. Cura let's you "play" back the gcode file and you can see exactly what the print head movement was for each layer. When the printer pauses, if the ender3 shows Z position, quickly write down the Z value before you forget and then you can open the gcode in repetier host. repetier host is probably best for looking at the gcodes exactly (each line of code) and seeing where it is printing in your model. You can go through line by line and it highlights that part of your model in 3d view on the left and highlights the actual gcode on the right of the view and you can see if there is something strange in the gcode (like an M command that does a pause). Or there could be 100 gcode moves all in 1mm of distance and that would simulate a stop. This would also be obvious in repetier host (which is free by the way). That's what I would do. Anyway I suspect it's a hardware problem. I had a printer that had this symptom and it really sucked to debug it. Evetually I replaced two circuit boards (one with SD card reader and one with the arduino) and that fixed it. It was very intermittent.

One more thing - get a butane pen that makes a flame. Put the flame over those strings for about 1/10 of a second. It will make many of them disappear. The remaining ones need to be removed mechanically.

Note also that smaller nozzles and longer nozzles leak less so string less. A friend of mine has an e3dv6 0.4mm nozzle that leaks much more than my 3dsolex 0.4mm nozzle for this reason. The "race" nozzles from 3dsolex have more internal geometry which means more surface area for the liquid filament to stick to which can reduce stringing (and ironically lower viscosity due to better heat transfer).

Sorry I just skimmed and I'm only addressing stringing. 1) Lower temp helps stringing more than increased. 2) Slowing down helps even more because there is less pressure in the nozzle 3) The most important is retraction. Your models appear to be quite small so the default retraction settings are probably way off. The key thing is: retraction minimum travel (lower that maybe to 0?) maximum retration count (raise that maybe to 100?) Look at your part in layer view and turn on the checkbox to see "moves" in blue and note the dark blue versus light blue moves. One is a retracting move (light blue) and the other is non-retracting. You want to get rid of all the non-retracting moves between parts of your model. Note however if you do too many retractions on the same exact spot of filament that you can grind it down to a point where you get a print failure (stops extruding). This is less likely at lower speeds (means lower pressure in nozzle which means lower stress on filament at feeder). But typically if the same spot of filament goes through the feeder back and forth more than 20 times it can cause a failure. But if printing slow 100 times should be okay.

If it was a screw issue it should do this on everything you print on the bottom "8 layers". Not just this print. I would try resetting cura settings back to defaults as well.

@neotko is smarter and more experienced than me so I hate to disagree but I think "first layer too close" wouldn't affect so many layers - just the bottom 2 or so. Your analysis of "screw" issues is what I thought of at first also. Also heat. I know you said you changed bed temp to room temp but this looks so much like a heat issue. What are the internal infill layers like? I guess it's important to decide if this is really overextrusion. Speed changes can also cause this kind of overextrusion when it goes from printing fast infill to slow outer edge but it wouldn't likely go *all* the wway around the part (does it go all the way around?). I'm really not sure what the issue is. Note also that it probably is printing slower on those lower levels.

@raldone01 - what cad software did you use to create this? If it was sketchup I can help you out. The quickest thing to do is "fix" the model with netfabb. netfabb free repair service is here (you have to create a free account first): https://service.netfabb.com/login.php You could also experiment with the 8 options in the "mesh fixes" section. In particular uncheck "merge overlapping volumes". That might make it even worse though. But try that. The best solution is to not create these errors in CAD in the first place. 99% of cad software out there will not let you create these errors - it's impossible. A "normal" as ahoeben calls it indicates which side of each triangle in the STL file is facing "air" and which side faces "internal". Many cad programes (like sketchup) make the user set this value manually. It's very easy to fix in sketchup.

https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/23132-clean-the-print-cores

Do a cold pull. Especially because this is a brand new core I'm thinking some small piece of metal was in the nozzle. I resell 3dsolex cores and I inspect EVERY Nozzle and about 1 in 50 have a piece of metal from the manufacturing process. I remove those but I may have missed a speck. Or you may have gotten a nozzle that bypassed me.

If you have underextrusion, lowering the temp will definitely just make it worse. Raising might help but better not to mess with temperature - better to slow down. 1) Is this a brand new hardcore? First I would try a different core to make sure the problem is with the core and not something else (filament, bowden, feeder, cura setting). 2) Which nozzle are you using on the hardcore? Does it match the "line width" in cura? You can't slice for a 0.4 core and then put a 0.25 nozzle on there and expect it to work just fine. You have to adjust the line width. 3) There could be a bit of dust/dirt/metal/sand in the nozzle of the hardcore. To get that out the normal procedure (for both UM Core and hardcore) is a "cold pull". You can do hot and cold pulls from the menu on both the S5 and the UM3. Additionally since the nozzles come off of the hardcore you can do a cold pull over a gas stove (I call it the gr5 pull 😮) 4) Did you mess with speeds? Are you using default profile speeds?

Seriously, talk to your reseller. They should have ability to get you any version you want. And if they can't help you tell them they need to call Ultimaker or tell them you need to call Ultimaker. I think they will be able to help you.

Yeah it used to be here: http://software.ultimaker.com/jedi/releases/ But not anymore. They hid it somewhere. Talk to your reseller. Threaten to return the printer until they tell you where to get the image file. Note that you can't downgrade from 5.X to 3.7.6 unless you use the micro-sd-card unbricking procedure. Have you done that before? If not then maybe it's not worth the trouble.

When the printer slows down for the corners, the pressure in the nozzle is still high and so it overextrudes. Basically anytime the head slows down it overextrudes and anytime it speeds up it underextrudes. And it has to slow down for corners. The fix is to disable accel and jerk control (so it spends less time on the corners and accelerates the hell out of there). Also lower the print speed. I find 35mm/sec is pretty good but 25mm/sec is even better. You can experiment in the TUNE menu and play with the feedrate % and keep notes and get lots of data on just one cube. However disabling accel and jerk control will increase ringing and that red cube above has an X with some shadows/ringing. So you can compromise and leave the accel/jerk control at defaults and instead just slow down the print. Also it's good to keep all infill and shell speeds at the same. As I said before, every speed change is a problem.

oh. Okay. I've never used octolapse so I'm not sure how it works. Maybe it overwrites the speeds. I don't know.

I assume someone mentioned it above but you can disable the sensors if you want. It's somewhere in the settings right on the printer screen. Also if you type in the ip address of your printer into a browser there are a few things you can click on including the "temperature graph" which also shows sensor position. If you leave that graph visible while it prints it is supposed to cylce from 0 to 4095 and instantly back to 0 (a sawtooth pattern). This may help you see when the sensor is slipping. It may be easier to diagnose if you can see partial slipping (that don't cause the "empty" message).

3.6 is fine as far as I know. No need to upgrade. Upgrading can mess up any profiles you may have saved. Also if you don't have a Ultimaker printer then that's another reason not to upgrade. There is a bug in 4.X where if extruder speed is at zero (which it is for many profiles) then cura creates a gcode to set it at the speed of light. This large number messes up most versions of Marlin. There have been complaints. The fix is trivial though - just set the extruder speed to 50.

print speeds of 1 to 6mm per second seem much too slow for a UM2+. I would never recommend going below 20mm/sec except for maybe ninjaflex. Most people consider 20mm/sec slow but it's a good speed that has very high quality results. Also having 6 different speeds for infill, shell, etc is a bad idea as you get over/underextrusion on speed changes. So make all those printing speeds 30mm/sec or so.

What version do you have? If you are using 15.X then strongly consider sticking with it unless you need some new feature. If you have 4.0 then the update to 4.1 I believe is pretty painless. If you have 2.X then definitely upgrade.

Also in cura try this: Set Minimum Wall Flow to something like 50, combing to no skin and max comb distance without retract to 10.

Yea that's still pretty vague. I see 2 to 4 different things going on in just the left green box. Okay I'll pick one for you. The area circled in blue. I pick it because it's the easiest to diagnose with these photos. That looks like pretty classic underextrusion. I'd love to see it zoomed in more but I'd say 90% chance that is underextrusion. I don't know the ender so I'm not sure what might cause this specific to an ender. Also because it's only happening on some parts of some layers you are right on the edge. Things that put it over the edge are things like speed changes. I would check to see if you are speeding up in this area. Cura defaults to multiple different printing speeds but that causes things like this circled blue area right when it speeds up and then it recovers. So try making all the speeds the same. Also try printing at 1/4 speed just to see what happens. Ender uses Marlin which allows you to TUNE things live as you are printing and you can try printing at "25%" feedrate for a few layers and see what happens (experiment!) and then try 50% for a few layers. See if that helps. Also try raising the temp a bit. Maybe just 10C (try at least 10C) will be enough to lower the viscocity enough for it to print just fine. Also check in slice view and play one of these underextruded sections to see if this is right after a layer change or right after switching from infill to surface or inner surface to outer or what-have-you. If you could zoom in more clearly on this and the other issues it would be helpful. But definitely try making all the speeds the same and try slowing things down.

okay, your description of the problem was pretty bad, lol. You took me down the wrong route. There is nothing wrong with K1. What is happening is your power supply is turning off and on. The power brick. This causes your printer to reboot. It happens quite quickly so I'd guess your heated bed is shorted. Or maybe your power supply isn't powerful enough. Was this a UMO upgrade? When you upgrade you have to use the larger power supply. Is it possible you are using the weaker power supply and your proper power supply is sitting around unused? You want the 221W supply that can put out 9.1 Amps. Alternatively the power supply may be bad. And finally you may have a short in your heated bed. Do you have a multimeter? Do you have a friend who is good with a multimeter? The bed should be around 4 ohms. If it's 2 ohms or lower then that's the problem - you have a short. In fact if it's < 3.8 ohms that could be the problem. Most likely you have a short and it's 0 ohms. Shorts are quite easy to fix. You have to check the wiring. The most likely two locations would be where the cable connects to the heated bed as that gets some torque and stress. The second most likely spot is where the power cable connects to the circuit board. The wires may be touching and shorting out. On either end of the cable.

There is a problem with calibrating using wall widths. There are features (bugs?) in Cura that make thin walls the wrong thickness. You could call it a cura bug. The fix is to set Minimum Wall Flow to something like 50. If you aren't doing that then your calibration method is not so good. Maybe a better test is to print a cube and then weigh it? My own personal test for extrusion is to print a cube with 100% infill and increase the speed until it starts underextruding. You'll see the gaps in the infill when it starts underextruding. I find that if you keep the speed down then there is no need to set flow to anything other than 100% regardless of filament type (nylon, abs, petg, pla).