gr5

You can print with only one if you want. In fact if you usually print say red or blue only prints you can just leave red filament in one feeder and blue in the other and choose the color based on the feeder when you slice in cura.

There's no bad answer! Just biased answers. If you go with any of the solutions above you will be happy. It's like choosing between blueberry pie or cherry pie. Both good options in my opinion.

Even better get a bondtech feeder! http://shop.bondtech.se/ec/

Or you can spend much less money than the um2+ upgrade and buy just the block v3 medium 4 kit and a meduza kit (note this is my store in USA - in europe go to 3dsolex.com) http://thegr5store.com/store/index.php/um2/meduza-feeder-upgrade-kit.html http://thegr5store.com/store/index.php/block-v3-and-matchless-nozzles.html Of course I'm a bit biased.

Did you change the firmware? If you did then see if you can get the original firmware that the previous owner was using. And any other information about how the heated bed sensor works (like what kind of sensor it is). You can rebuild the firmware for many different types of heated beds but first you need to know what kind of temp sensor it is. Also consider heating it with your hands or a hair dryer (the sensor - not the entire bed) and seeing if the temp reading changes a bit.

>So, the hair was interfering with the contacts between the SD card and the reader? It seems so. Something was interfering. I don't know if it was dust, the hair, or corrosion (does gold corrode? I guess it gets rubbed off and then the copper below corrodes?) But my guess was that hair. It was almost as long as the SD card is wide. With a gentle curve.

Many of the UM3 glass plates are shaped like a hill where the center is higher and the edges are lower and especially the corners. The bed is leveled at 3 points which tilts this shape and makes the front two corners good and the rear center good but leaves the rear two corners even lower. Sometimes 2mm lower. One solution is to just move your prime tower to the rear center. You can set the position of the tower. You have to set it in mm but it shows you where that is with a "tower shadow" so you get quick feedback. But since the platform is about 200mm wide start with X position 100mm and leave Y position alone. Another solution is to disable the tower. The new temperature control in 2.4 beta 2 is very good such that there is very little leaking and you don't need the wipe tower so much anymore. A third solution is to bend up the aluminum base. Remove glass, bend up the rear two corners "a lot" but without breaking the heater (PCB) underneath. I did this and it did wonders but later realized I could have broken the PCB. The aluminum bed compensated and pushed up on the corners of the glass and now my UM3 glass is decently flat when clamped into the aluminum plate. I bent with close to all my finger strength. Maybe 50% full strength. I don't remember. It took that much to make any difference to the aluminum. When I was done the aluminum was about 2mm *high* in the corners and attaching the glass made them both cancel each other's error.

Here's my test on the UM2. But I have a UMO also and other people have tested their UMO. Both machines (even the old black feeder on UM2) typically go to about 5kg or about 10 pounds when the spring is nice and tight.

How much CF filament? I would look carefully at the splined (or is it gnurled?) bolt that pushes the filament. The tiny pyramidal peaks can get worn down such that the tip of each "pyramid" is now rounded and doesn't grip the filament well. One test is to engage the stepper by moving it a little with the filament only a few inches past the feeder. Then pull downard hard. It should hold on with about 10 pounds of force before slipping. You can also test with a scale and weight and vice grip the weights to some filament. Or you can just hole a 5 pound weight for a few minutes to get a feel for it and then pull down with that force on the filament. 10 pounds is potentially enough to tip the printer so you probably will need to hold the printer with one hand and pull with the other.

I FIXED IT. This problem (out of printing erea) got very serious the last few weeks. Here are the details: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/39322-error-tried-printing-out-of-printing-area-solved

Over the last few weeks I was getting this error occasionally and even worse - every few minutes of printing the print head would move to the edge of the print and then come back to the print and continue. I tried many things - changing SD cards (no difference) cleaning the SD card. Swapping ribbon cables. Finally I cleaned out the SD card reader inside the printer and that fixed it instantly. While cleaning I noticed a large hair about 2cm long inside there. But I also used a wooden toothpick dipped in alcohol to clean each of the 10 or so contacts. One at a time. Carefully. I think I probably could have done it without taking it apart so next time I will try that. Blowing hard in the slot probably would have fixed the problem. But if you do take it apart there is one tricky step. So do the tricky part first. First remove the white knob (not the transparent cylinder that the knob goes in). { edit - push the knob out from behind as shown in Erin's post below } Once it is out you will see a metal nut. Remove that nut! That's the tricky part. Everything else was pretty obvious. If you really want detailed directions you can get them here in this pdf with pictures: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/um2%20assembly%20manual%20V1.1%20_english.pdf

The symptoms you describe (gap between infill and walls, stringy thin infill) both describe underextrusion. There are many causes but the first thing -- what temp did you use (as @yellowshark asks)

I use brim on about 1/4 of my prints. So that is a KEY setting change. So I made it visible. Done. No need to touch configuration files.

>I've been printing a lot of products and to do so I have produced a lot of .gcode files. Cura 15.X can open gcode files. Also you can drag and drop your file onto here and see your gcode in 3d: gcode.ws Or you can download and install repetier which is free and has a fantastic gcode viewer built in. You can tell which way the head is moving in repetier and see which printing lines follow which. https://www.repetier.com/

Almost certainly your nozzle and bed are too far abpart. I don't care what the calibration routine is - you are ending up with the bed and nozzle too far apart on the bottom layer. What kind of printer is this?

That looks like a good feeder but I have no reason to believe it will be quieter.

yeah that just makes the settings *visible* or not. Then on the right that setting will appear and you can enter the value.

If you do the peggyb second method (which is brilliant) and you have non symmetrical things like holes in it as in the drawing at the very top of this page then make the insert piece asymetrical. Such as with a tab or make it square or whatever. Great ideas here.

Oh it's great that you have the um2+ext. That means you know the kind of quality and such you can get. Since you are in the USA you want to go to my store and consider getting the meduza kit but definitely put an iRoberti on that 2go and get an Olsson block or a block v3. I sell 0.15 and 0.1mm nozzles. You can print .15 down to .1 line widths (tell cura you have a .1 nozzle or .1 line width depending on cura version) and the .1mm nozzle can print a bit smaller also e.g. .08. I think you will love the 2go. It seems to have even better print quality due to the very sturdy frame for such a small printer. http://thegr5store.com Oh - and print the iRoberti backwards (mirror image) as the 2go feeder is mirror image from the um2 and um2ext.

That's strange. I'm guessing it's the initial bottom layer blob? Because even the bottom most layer (I assume this is upside-down) has the problem. At any rate you are getting some over cooked ABS turned brown there. What temp are you printing at? I don't like to go over 240C as ABS can get cooked into a gunky gum if you don't get it through the nozzle fast enough (a few minutes). But printing as cool as 240C means I need almost zero fan or layer bonding isn't great. ABS is tricky.

I still think it's distance from nozzle to bed but it could be your temp sensor is broken and only the first few mm of filament is hot enough to extrude. Here's a way to make sure it's working: Or here's my current underextrusion list: CAUSES FOR UNDEREXTRUSION AND HOW TO TEST FOR THEM AND REMEDY THEM As far as underextrusion causes - there's just so damn many. none of the issues seem to cause more than 20% of problems so you need to know the top 5 issues to cover 75% of the possibilities and 1/4 people still won't have the right issue. Some of the top issues: 1) Print slower and hotter! Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers) and .4mm nozzle: 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. Different colors print best at quite different temperatures and due to imperfect temp sensors, some printers print 10C cool so use these values as an initial starting guideline and if you are still underextruding try raising the temp. But don't go over 240C with PLA. 2) Shell width confusion. Shell width must be a multiple of nozzle size. For example if nozzle size is .4mm and shell width is 1mm cura will make the printer do 2 passes with .5mm line width which is possible but requires you to slow down much more to make a .5mm line out of a .4mm nozzle. If you really want this then set nozzle size to .5mm so it's clear what you are asking Cura to do for you. 3) Isolator - this is most common if you've printed extra hot (>240C) for a few hours or regular temps (220C) for 500 hours. It gets soft and compresses the filament under pressure. It's the white part touching the heater block. It's very hard to test when not under full pressure (spring and bowden) so sometimes it's best to just replace it. Also if you notice parts of it are very soft (the blacker end where it touches higher heat) then it's too old and needs replacing. 4) Curved filament at end of spool - if you are past half way on spool, try a fresh spool as a test. 5) curved angle feeding into feeder - put the filament on the floor -makes a MASSIVE difference. 6) Head too tight? Bizarrely MANY people loosen the 4 screws on the head by just a bit maybe 1/2 mm and suddenly they can print just fine! Has to do with pressure on the white teflon isolator. 6b) Bowden pushing too hard - for the same reason you don't want the bowden pushing too hard on the isolator. 6c) Spring pushing too hard. Although you want a gap you want as small as possible a gap between teflon isolator and steel isolator nut such that the spring is compressed as little as possible. 7) clogged nozzle - the number one problem of course - even if it seems clear. There can be build up on the inside of the nozzle that only burning with a flame can turn to ash and remove. Sometimes a grain of sand gets in there but that's more obvious (it just won't print). Atomic method (cold pull) helps but occasionally you need to remove the entire heater block/nozzle assembly and use flame. Or soak it in acetone overnight (after removing 90% of the material with cold pull). 8) Temp Sensor bad - even the good ones vary by +/- 5C and bad ones can be any amount off - they usually read high and a working sensor can (rarely) fail high slowly over time. Meaning the sensor thinks you are at 220C but actually you are at 170C. At 170C the plastic is so viscous it can barely get out of the nozzle. You can verify your temp sensor using this simple video at youtube - on you tube search for this: mrZbX-SfftU 9) feeder spring issues - too tight, too loose 10) Other feeder issues, one of the nuts holding machine together often interferes with the feeder motor tilting it enough so that it still works but not very well. Other things that tilt the feeder motor, sleeve misaligned so it doesn't get a good grip. Gunk clogging the mechanism in there. 11) Filament diameter too big - 3mm is too much. 3mm filament is usually 2.85mm nominal or sometimes 2.9mm +/- .05. But some manufacturers (especially in china) make true 3.0mm filament with a tolerance of .1mm which is useless in an Ultimaker. It will print for a few meters and then clog so tight in the bowden you will have to remove the bowden from both ends to get the filament out. Throw that filament in the trash! It will save you weeks of pain 11b) Something wedged in with the filament. I was setting up 5 printers at once and ran filament change on all of them. One was slowly moving the filament through the tube and was almost to the head when I pushed the button and it sped up and ground the filament badly. I didn't think it was a problem and went ahead and printed something but there was a ground up spot followed by a flap of filament that got jammed in the bowden tube. Having the "plus" upgrade or using the IRobertI feeder helps you feel this with your hand by sliding the filament through the bowden a bit to see if it is stuck. 12) Hot weather. If air is above 30C or even possibly 25C, the air temperature combined with the extruder temperature can soften the filament inside the feeder such that it is getting squeezed flat as it passes through the feeder - this is obvious as you can see the problem in the bowden. The fix is to add a desk fan blowing on the back of the printer. Not an issue on the UM2 "plus" series. 13) Crimped bowden. At least one person had an issue where the bowden was crimped a bit too much at the feeder and although the printer worked fine when new it eventually got worse and had underextrusion on random layers. it's easy to pull the bowden out of the feeder end and examine it. 14) Small nozzle. Rumor has it some of the .4mm nozzles are closer to .35mm. Not sure if this is actually true. I'm a bit skeptical but try a .6mm nozzle maybe. 15) CF filament. The knurled sleeve in the extruder can get ground down smooth - particularly from carbon fill. 4 spools of CF will destroy not just nozzles but the knurled sleeve also. Look at it visually where the filament touches the "pyramids". Make sure the pyramids are sharp. 16) Hot feeder driver. I've seen a more recent problem in the forums (>=2015) where people's stepper drivers get too hot - this is mostly a problem with the Z axis but also with the feeder. The high temps means the driver appears to shut down for a well under a second - maybe there is a temp sensor built into the driver chip? The solution from Ultimaker is that they lowered all the currents to their stepper drivers in the newer firmware. Another solution is to remove the cover and use desk fan to get a tiny bit of air movement under there. TinkerMarlin lets you set the currents from the menu system or you can send a gcode to lower the current. Ultimaker lowered the default currents in July of 2015 from 1300ma to 1200ma for X,Y,Z but left extruder at 1250. Other people (I think the support team of a major reseller but I forget) recommend X,Y,Z go down to 1000mA. M907 E1250 Above sets the extruder max current to the default - 1250mA. So try 900mA. This will only change until next power cycle so if you like your new value and want to save it use M500. You can just put these into an otherwise empty gcode file and "print" this and it will change. Or get tinkergnome marlin! You will wonder how you lived without it: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases M907 E900 M500

It's hard to tell how tight they are in your video because I don't know how hard you are pushing and "not hard" is not accurate enough, lol. It would have been better to play them like a string. Then I could compare musical pitch to mine.

I hear replacing the belts on a UM2 is a nightmare job that will very likely (70%?) destroy at least one of your 4 blocks. Even if you don't hurt them too much they will never hold together as well as when they are new. Instead, if one side of the belt is tighter than the other I would loosen both screws on a long belt and let the belt auto tension itself then re-tighten the set screws. And tighten the hell out of those things.

Again, a photo would help. If you are printing a cube then the USB should be able to keep up. But if you are printing something with lots of polygons in the STL (say a million or 10 million or more) then you could just reduce the polygons which I do all the time and it improves the quality as who needs 100 points per millimeter in their model!