gr5

I'm not familiar with formfutura flexifil but ninja flex is very flexible. Similar to the material in a rubber band. They also have a "cheetah" filament that is much less flexible. Somewhere hopefully these companies publish the shore hardness and/or the modulus (it's the same modulus - modulus of elasticity, youngs modulus, tensile modulus, etc.). Higher numbers for hardness or modulus are stiffer. Lower numbers are stretchier/bendier.

Yes - I just went there after seeing the screenshot. Nice but could be better. Could talk about solder reflowing and testing with multimeter but at least you get to diagnose whether it's the PCB or not. You make a good point about making the traces stay on the board more strongly. @coen is the guy who designed the PCB and also I'm guessing the heated bed but possibly that was someone else. He takes seriously advice like this although it could be a year before the current stock is used up and the next version comes out. Still it's worth bringing this topic to him: @coen - notice how easy it would be to rip up traces on the heated bed when pulling on the terminal block and how much stronger something like in the photo above would be!

I'm the reseller in the USA. The ones @chrisw have were modified by @swordriff. I actually physically brought it to Norway - @swordriff removed some chrome and then I brought it back to USA before shipping to @chrisw. However maybe he didn't remove enough? You could see some brass and some chrome at the same time like it was "half removed". I don't understand why this makes any difference anyway. I know chrome is harder than brass but teflon is much softer than either. Why would chrome make any difference? maybe the edge is more rounded and lets a little bit of pressurized filament creep in?

Well woodfill is also more likely to clog a .4mm nozzle than regular PLA because of the wood particles which can occasionally get stuck in the nozzle. So for woodfill I recommend a larger nozzle such as a .6mm. Brassfill should be fine with a .4mm nozzle. I did a brassfill print with .4mm last week. Glowfill should be through a steel nozzle. 99% of materials work fine with the default nozzle (nylon, ABS, ngen, pla/pha, polycarbonate) but woodfill does better with larger nozzles and a few need harder nozzles (carbonfill, glowfill, steelfill).

What country are you in zxen. I have different advice depending on the country. Anyway I never heard of "ER02". There's 3 heater related errors I think. They are something like: Heater error error stopped - temp sensor error stopped - bed temp sensor They are very different errors and caused by different things but I'm going to guess the "bed" one since you took that apart. Still if you are getting one of the other 2 then you took the wrong thing apart - sorry. Building marlin is quite difficult. I used to have instructions but they no longer work so I don't know how to build it anymore. Besides if the problem is in the bed itself, rebuilding marlin wont' help. The temp sensor in the bed is a PT100 part. Unlike other types of temp sensors, all PT100 parts have an identical curve so you can get any brand, any manufacturer and they all have the same temp curve (resistance to temp curve). So measure the resistance - it should be about 108 ohms at room temp. If it's within 10 ohms of that then it's probably working. Measure at several places to figure out where it is failing. My bed had a problem early on - within the first 100 prints. I did what you did - removed the terminal block and resoldered all 4 connections. It has been fine for years since then and never had to do anything since.

in tinkerMarlin you just go into advanced menu and select "continue print" and then you choose which print on the SD card and then it asks the extra questions "Z height". You dial in the starting Z height and it continues the print from there - sometimes it takes a few minutes to read many megabytes of gcodes until it gets to the correct height.

Depends on what country you are in. Start at 3dsolex.com and they will tell you which reseller based on your country. Then you can get a "temp sensor" if yours is bad or a "35W heater" if it's your heater that's bad. Why do you think you need a new sensor @zxen?

I had a 30 hour print fail due to too many retractions grinding down the filament on a large eiffel tower print. I was able to continue the print at the time - at the time I couldn't deal with it and left the heated bed on over night (so it wouldn't pop off) and was able to continue it the next day. Back then we didn't have the amazing tinkergnome marlin so I had to edit the gcode by hand and only had one shot to get it perfect. Now you can just continue a failed print with tinkerMarlin.

@Franny500 - does it need to *look* like egg crate? Can it be brown? If it only needs to *look* like that then try wood filled pla. Several companies make this filament. If you want it to *feel* like egg carton then I recommend you 3dprint permeable molds and then use actual paper pulp to make your finished part. This is pretty easy to do I suspect. People have posted about it: http://www.javelin-tech.com/3d-printer/making-molded-pulp-packages-in-low-quantities/ and Cura makes it easy to print lots of holes in your print for the water to drain out - for example you can set the infill percent to control "hole size" and turn off top/bottom layers.

As neotko suggested - I printed two UMO robots at the same time. This gave one time to cool down while printing the other. Both robots came out just as good. Mainly I needed to do that for the 2 antennas on top of the head. You don't need a powerful feeder (like bondtech) if you print at 25mm/sec and .1mm layer. That's nice and slow (1mm^3/sec).

I'm not certain about woodfill - I don't think that will wear down nozzles. But brassfill does and I hear glowfill is even worse. It's okay to use brass nozzles on those - just beware that you might have to throw it away after printing a roll of glowfill. Or buy a steel nozzle or even harder nozzle. 3dsolex has steel nozzles. 0.5mm.

No. By then it's too late. You need to do it while the plastic is above 200C which only lasts maybe 10ms (one hundredth of one second). You simply turn the leveling screws (turn all 3 equal amounts) a small amount to get the plastic to squish better. If you use the leveling procedure then after turn all 3 screws about half turn CCW. Or just use my visual guide above and level it "live" when bottom layer is printing. You should be doing the "live" leveling anyway on every print until you can do it without thinking.

Seems like a lot of trouble if your problem was actually not backlash and instead underextrusion as either problem can create gaps between walls of a part. Anyway here is some more info on backlash: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/?p=14474

Anytime you are printing and hear that skipping, IMMEDIATELY cut the speed in half on the TUNE menu. If it's only the bottom layer don't panic but any other layer and you need to keep the speed slow. If it skips more then go down to 25%. Also consider raising the temp 10C up to 240C max for PLA.

Yes. You have underextrusion. That is causing those gaps also on the perimeter. For now you can print at 1/2 speed and increase temp but order another coupler asap. The newer couplers both from my store (thegr5store.com) and from fbrc8 are MUCH better and last longer. They are from a very expensive material only from Dupont. You can tell they are different as they are not opaque white but instead are somewhat translucent. You also need to clean your z screw which is probably causing those minor horizontal lines in benchy. Here is a difference after only a few minutes with a paper towel. I did not regrease or take it apart or anything but did use my thumbnail (long!) to push paper towel into the threads. White=before black=after

This same problem can happen if the temp sensor is very loose (air gap around it). Basically it's much harder for the PID to control if there is a long delay between when it changes power to the heater and when it measures a change. Increasing "D" value helps but if you increase it too much you can get a different oscillation (there's, I think, 3 ways to get oscillations).

Usually the issue is not so much the glue but that you aren't squishing your filament enough into the glass. You want it squished nicely like the blue filament below:

The ones with the internal structure have the "race" adjective added. As in "Matchless Race Nozzle". @LePaul I won't have any .4mm race nozzles for about 4 more weeks - maybe around August 20, 2016. I have .6mm and larger though - just not in the store yet but contact me directly if you want one. You can't do cold pulls with these - well you can - but it's trickier.

1) you have the older style teflon part there. The newer teflon lasts much longer and is more translucent. So definitely replace it. You can get them from 3dsolex.com or from Ultimaker. 2) Just because it looks good doesn't mean it is fine. You have to put quite a bit of pressure on it and see if the opening closes up a bit. 3) 80 hours is pretty short time to destroy it - were you printing hotter than 220C?

I assume these are views from the bottom. Well you are doing all that support just for that little pin. I would remove the pin and put in a hole and insert the pin after printing (assemble the pin later). But that doesn't answer your question. Well I don't use cura support much so I'm not sure. Maybe the "Z distance" is too far and so there is too big a gap? Or maybe you just need a more dense support? Personally if I had to print a cylinder in the air I would just design my own support - a hollow cylinder that touches the supporting solid cylinder around the outer edge plus a second cylinder under the hole/opening. I would add occasional gaps/perforation just 2 layers thick to make the support break off more easily.

What is the problem? What should be different? Those look okay. I can think of some improvements - especially I wouldn't do so much support. But what's wrong with these? Maybe circles and arrows on the photo and some words?

plus kit comes with 35W heater so you should be able to keep up I would think. Surprised you couldn't. I guess I never tried going over 230C.

@jtghoops13 - in addition to the capton comment above... For ABS at least (never printed PET) which is also a high glass temp material, you don't need any fan at all for the part you showed (vertical walls - not the slightest overhang) but it will look better and come out more accurate with a tiny amount of fan. And if you print much smaller parts you need fan also or they won't cool down before the next layer is applied.

@chrisw - you left out one important detail - what do you do for fan speed? 100%? 30%? We got the 75C bed, 240C noz, cover front, cover top parts.

kapton? That's old technology. Now we use glass with glue. I did many prints on kapton on aluminum bed but I love glass - so much easier to get it to stick. Remove kapton, clean the hell off the glass - get it perfectly clean. Try soapy water in the sink, maybe use alcohol or acetone to get all the glue residue off - then you need a thin layer of pva (found in glue stick, hairspray, wood glue). I prefer wood glue - I mix it in a jar 90% water, 10% wood glue). Paint it on the glass while in the machine, heat it up and it dries to invisible. hairspray is best for a noob but you have to remove the glass every time or you get glue all over your machine's working parts.