gr5

It should work find. Post pictures.

I can tell side from top. You don't seem to have much play. But you have some serious horizontal banding. Well in one of the photos from july 27 it looks like you have some layer shifting - a loose pulley maybe - or possibly play but it seems much more likely a stepper missed a step (due to friction?) or a pulley was a bit loose. But for the rest of the issues - 90% of the problem looks like horizontal bands caused by the platform not moving up and down consistent amounts such that if the platform doesn't move far enough you get overextrusion and the layer sticks out. And if the bed moves too far you get an underextruded layer. Turn off power and move the bed up and down many times trying to feel for bad spots. Try to fix the bad spots. It can be caused by the 2 vertical rods not parallel. Bad rods. Bad screw. Other obstructions e.g. bed hitting the spool holder in that gap where it's hard to see what's going on. Bad Z nut. And so on. Here is a case recently where I simply spent a few minutes cleaning the gunk out of a Z screw and it improved the layering quite a bit (this was at the birthplace of UM in protospace Utrecht 9 days ago). Not as serious banding as you have but you get the idea. A "z movement problem". Before and after cleaning:

Nice drawing. I looked at your black and white drawing zoomed in and followed the path. Those extra spot fills - you can get rid of them probably by setting top/bottom fill to zero and also infill to zero. This will save you some time on your print of course. the print might be a bit weaker but hopefully almost as strong. It's kind of crazy that there were 12 days between when you posted the initial pictures and gave any hint of what the part is *supposed* to look like! The initial photos were really useless since I didn't know what you wanted. I wasn't sure if that top gap was supposed to be there (it is suposed to be there). So that threw me completely off and not until finally today do I realize THAT WASN'T THE PROBLEM! lol! That top gap was what I was concentrating on all this time. I guess instead of asking you to look at slice view in all of my posts I should have asked you to post what the part looks like in normal view.

@apgodshell which printer? Please add your printer to your profile settings so everyone knows what kind of printer you are talking about. It could be the cables that go to the display as neotko says or it could be a bad connection to the bed. For UM2 it's usually at the bed.

Get the conversion kit from 3dsolex (it's just an olsson block with smaller diameter hole and a teflon part with a smaller hole). Consider getting the block v3 while you are at it. You can use your existing nozzles with either conversion kit. Your existing bowden will work fine but make sure you increase retraction just a bit - maybe 6mm. For the feeder I strongly recommend you print the IRobertI feeder on youmagine (V6). This works better with thinner filament like 1.75mm.

That makes sense - with the oil added you get less underextrusion so you get a stronger part. Not a weaker part.

UMO or UM2? If UM2 then it's probably K1 is bad. K1 supplies 24V to the servos and the heaters. I'm guessing the motors don't move either - try homing the bed in the advanced menu. If the bed won't move then that's the problem. You can either jumper over K1 (it's really not needed) or contact your reseller and get a new circuit board from them. Link them to this thread. If the motors *do* move then you probably have loose wires connecting to your 2 heaters (bed and nozzle). check that they didn't fall out of the board under your printer. It's easy to get to this board only 1 or 2 screws.

Heat transfer: 1) The nozzle has MUCH more surface contact to the block v3 so there is more heat transferred so the nozzle is warmer. The nozzle is never going to be as warm as the block but with the V3 and the matchless nozzles the tip is closer to the temperature of the block. 2) The nozzle has internal geometry to heat the plastic more thoroughly inside such that the plastic is closer to the nozzle temperature when it comes out the tip. Also because the plastic is heated sooner/higher up in the nozzle, it seems to be less viscous and flows out with less pressure. This internal geometry is only in the "race" nozzles (0.4mm and larger) and not needed in .25mm and smaller nozzles. The result of all this is less pressure in the nozzle at a given printing speed and temperature (faster printing) and also you can print with lower temperatures because the plastic is closer to the temperature of the block.

My understanding is that there is indeed a huge delay. Many people have gotten their "plus" kits but there is a HUGE amount of people waiting for their kits. @sandervg do you want to comment on approximately when people can expect their kits? For example "all people who ordered kits in January 2016 now should have them"? Something like that? Also @thomasphoenix98 - please say who your reseller is.

Do you get "heater error" or "heater stopped"? Does it happen when you start the print before it starts extruding? Or does it happen part way into the print. Does the heater always read between 17C and 25C before you start heating it? Does it still measure < 25C moments before the error? There are 20 variants on these errors. Please give more details. heater error (as opposed to error stopped - temp sensor) You get an error if the heater can't move a certain amount in a certain time while driving full power (when it is close to goal temp it typically runs well below full power): Firmware Version 14.09 - does not have the feature 14.12 oct 16, 2014 - feature introduced. 20C in 20 Seconds 14.12.1 dec 15, 2014 - from 20C to 10C (still in 20 seconds) 15.01 jan 14, 2015 - from 20 secs to 30 secs (now 10C in 30 seconds)

I have added oil when printing ninjaflex and it doesn't seem to affect the print quality. It certainly looks great but is it weaker? I don't know. I don't think it hurts anything. I think the oil stays apart (ends up mostly on the outside of the print) from the print. But I don't know. I have a stress/strain analyzer machine. So one of the things I will test is prints with and without oil to see if this affects flexibility or strength of the printed part. Some day.

Which of the two problems do you have? "heating failed"? which is very common and well understood? Or "flickering display" which I have no idea what causes that and I've never seen that before. If it is "heating failed" then did it happen when you first heated up the nozzle or during your print (for example when the fans come on a few layers into the print).

@merakiexpo - what happened to your images? Now I forget what your problem looked like. Now other people will come to this thread for help with some unrelated problem and will get the wrong advice :(

Je les ai. Je ne les ai pas mis en vente sur mon magasin encore. Je souhaite faire aujourd'hui. Ou bientôt. Si vous voulez être le premier à commander un email juste moi à mon adresse du magasin. Je dois même prix que 3dsolex. Les buses "de course" ont certainement un meilleur transfert de chaleur vers le filament. Je les ai testé moi-même. Et le nouveau bloc v3 possède également un meilleur transfert de chaleur vers la buse. Donc, l'un des avantages de ces nouveaux blocs est que vous pouvez simplement imprimer refroidisseur qui vous donne un peu plus grande plage d'impression pour les filaments plus difficiles et la possibilité d'imprimer plus frais et plus rapide (moins de cordage? Ne sait pas) avec PLA. La société qui fabrique ces pour 3dsolex est en vacances. Je n'ai que 20 bloc v3 (mais beaucoup de buses!) Et pas plus sera fabriqué jusqu'en Septembre. Donc, je ne pense pas que ces nouveaux blocs vont s'annoncés fortement jusqu'en Septembre. En outre à un moment donné (Septembre?) Les anciens blocs sera probablement mis en vente. Désolé pour google translate. Nous devrions commencer une discussion à ce sujet dans la section anglaise du forum.

If the back left corner is too low (as you describe) and you don't want to affect the top right corner then move the front right down by turning CW. This will lower front right a bit but also raise the rear left. Maybe you should just do the official leveling procedure first to get the paper feeling EXACTLY the same friction at all 3 points and only then adjust the 3 screws and always turn them the same distance. Then try printing a brim or skirt all the way around the outside to see if it worked. If it still is bad only in one of the 4 corners then remove the glass and check for bumps/screws protruding under the glass. Maybe you have to counter sink one of the screw holes. Or you can *add* warp to the glass by putting a thin washer under one of the 4 corners to compensate for any warp in the overhead mechanism.

Or you can print upside down. But it's more complicated if you always print upside down (e.g. nozzle purge at start of print is messier!).

It works great. Go to 3dsolex.com. More info here: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/20402-has-anyone-had-success-with-the-olson-175mm-conversion https://ultimaker.com/en/community/19656-using-175-mm-filament-with-the-um2

Sorry to change the subject slightly - I was at the Utrecht protospace (a makerspace) last week and they had a UMO that had some ugly layers. I didn't have much time - I just took a paper towel and held it against the Z screw while moving the bed up and down 10 times - sticking the paper towel into the thread as much as my thumb nail would allow. This was about 5 minutes of work. I only did the top half of the Z thread because the UMO goes up to home, not down and my part was small. It didn't fix it entirely but made a huge improvement. Sorry that the filament colors are different - in real life you could clearly see it's better:

Before taking Remy's advice about standing uprgight - slice it both ways and see which takes more time to print. Certainly the quality will be better upright. Also I recommend printing this small at first as you seem to be new to 3d printing and it takes lots of practice to be really good and get perfect models every time. The most common problem is not leveling the bed higher than recommended - you want the plastic to squish into the glass so the models stick well.

However you also used support pattern "lines". I think that's the default. That doesn't work very well for more than 1cm height as they fall over. I suggest you use pattern "grid". Concentric is okay also. Generating these supports is slow in cura 2.1.2 so you might want to try cura 14.X.X. Also you might want to reduce the size of your stl. It has many more triangles than needed for your model unless your printer is 5 meters wide! So this isn't necessary but it will speed up your slicing step and probably speed up your printing also: http://www.shapeways.com/tutorials/polygon_reduction_with_meshlab

There are no missing layers. I looked at your gcode file using "repetier host" which has better graphics and you can see there are no missing layers. You just have a very very large gcode file so I suppose cura has trouble displaying things clearly and quickly. If you had used the layer viewer scroller like I suggested and scrolled to the "missing" layers and waited a minute you would have seen that there is nothing missing. Here is a screen shot from repetier host of your file on dropbox:

I think you will get what you want if you turn off "combing" in the retraction settings.

In the USA I recommend colorFabb filament from printedSolid.com. The "PLA/PHA" filaments are great. Colorfabb is just now coming out with some new filaments including something called "ngen" which is very promising and might replace most of the PLA out there. Eventually. I'm kind of excited about it. printedSolid doesn't carry it yet.

I'm told you can just short the temperature pins together - not sure why that works (would think some kind of temp error) but I saw it working for someone a few days ago.

The most important thing is that the nozzle is touching the "pipe" (the long threaded piece). So that you don't have filament escaping where the 2 meet. If you are going to be changing nozzles all the time and they are even slightly different threaded lengths then you need to have the nozzle not touching the block.