gr5

Sparks are probably normal. If it's drawing a lot of current then that heat has to go somewhere so touch different components to see what gets hot. Although it has to get above 100C (boiling) before you should start to worry. Can you read schematics? You can get information about what is definitely working if you want by looking carefully at the schematic: ULTIMAKER 2 SCHEMATIC - click "raw": https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/1091_Main_board_v2.1.1_%28x1%29/Main%20Board%20V2.1.1.pdf Wait - what? Shield? This doesn't sound like the white PCB UMO kit. What color is the PCB? I was assuming you had the recent KIT that's been out since I think this past January. Maybe you have an older PCB? If so that schematic is here: http://reprap.org/wiki/Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.7_PCB

Play with the cables going to the ulticontroller - it's easy to get them backwards but I don't think anything will break if you hook them up wrong. also if you push on the knob it should make a buzz/beep sound. If the board is truly damaged you should probably contact support - start here: support.ultimaker.com

Wow. How about vice grips? You should have used metric hex wrench - it's .5mm smaller than all the other screws - I think 1.5mm instead of 2mm for the other screws. Anyway I would try vice grips with the nozzle at 150C.

That's great! I set that answer as "best answer". If I'm wrong let me know and I'll remove it as best answer and you can pick something else some day.

Oh - the feeder motor for second nozzle also needs to be connected as though it is the first motor.

What you want to do printerfan is difficult with software. It is SOO MUCH EASIER to simply take the 2 cables that are going to the second nozzle and hook them up as though they are the first nozzle. Cura and the firmware can do what you describe (probably by adding the T1 command) but it's so much simpler just to wire it up as though you only have one nozzle. If you ever get 2 nozzles working then you can wire it up "normally" but you will never be able to print using ONLY the second nozzle - you need a "dual" print for that. Or jump through some hoops.

Oh and did you try *pushing* the new temp sensor out? I mean you don't really need to take it out I assume at this point but that's how I'd do it. While at 150C (in case any PLA is holding it in there like glue).

I think the leaking filament was not a major problem. The major problem here is that you used to print at 175C and now you probably need to print at 220C (the default printing temp for PLA with a fresh UM2). The temp sensors very quite a bit - the original one you had was almost surely defective. I get a lot of these and I test each one at 260C (I distribute the ones for 3dsolex in the USA). It's common for them (one in 10) to be off by 9C and worse. And in both directions. And the ones from UM I believe are not tested at all. So you probably got one that measured very low such that what you thought was 175C was actually closer to 200C. Now you probably have a good one and you need to print closer to 200C to 210C from now on. You can test it out with my video above. It's a more accurate test than you might think! I edited the video down very quick. But of course when I test temp probes I have a much more accurate test - I have a chunk of aluminum with one hole for a heater and 2 holes for sensors. One sensor is my reference sensor and I use that and a UM2 to heat the aluminum to 260C. I insert the sensor to be tested in the other hole and let the temp balance for a minute and then measure the resistance, look up the measured temp in a PT100 table and write it down. Most temp sensor are accurate +/- 3C. I don't sell the ones off by > 5C.

Was that after you sent them a link to this topic? ha ha. 2 of the key support people are going on a short vacation so you are lucky! (they still have at least 1 excellent support person behind plus the support people on vacation are bound to work on tickets during their vacation - sigh.).

So I'm a bit confused. Are you saying that you have a bad hot end on heater0 and temp sensor0 and a brand new hot end on a second nozzle hooked up to heater1 and temp sensor1? I have very little experience with using 2 hot ends and the people who get it to work say it's very complicated. Cura and Marlin are set up for dual printing but not printing *only* on the second hot end - that just doesn't work very well. Please clarify which hot end you are trying to heat, and where the nozzle heater and temp probe are connected on the PCB. I strongly recommend you treat the UMO as a single hot end machine unless you are printing 2 different filaments in the same print.

This can happen with very very large stl files. How many polygons are we talking about in your STL?

Everything should be in stock later this week - waiting for a shipment from 3dsolex. Yes all the nozzles in my store are designed for 3mm filament and the Olsson block. But they will work on the UMO also but you have to modify the UMO fan shroud for it to not hit the part you are printing if you use the e3dv6 nozzles. Keep in mind that other people sell compatible e3dv6 nozzles (for more money) such as micro-swiss.com, printedSolid.com and e3d-online in the UK. These nozzles are a standard size and used for non-ultimaker printers also.

You can do this on the UM2 with a smaller nozzle. The default nozzle is .4mm diameter hole allowing objects down to .8mm thick but you can get smaller nozzles e.g. .25mm and even .15mm diameter holes. I'm not sure how reliable the .15mm nozzle is - I expect it may clog easily but not sure.

Just for the hell of it - try cutting the filament to a pointy tip - use at least 2 angled cuts rotating the filament on it's axis between cuts. See if that works better for getting things started. This only affects the first 2 minutes of printing. Also try "move material" to see if it's extruding okay - dont' just do it for 1 second - and try not to move the material so fast it starts skipping as that can cause grinding potentially also. Just turn it slowly until you've moved at least 5mm of filament through the feeder.

Your printer should be able to tell you what version is has - it's in one of the menus. The marlin version (marlin is the firmware) matches the version number of the Cura that contains it. You can get older versions of cura at the same place you get cura - there is an "see all versions" link. Start here: software.ultimaker.com Cura doesn't overwrite other versions so you can install 5 different versions of Cura and run them all at once or one at a time or whatever. They are treated as separate installations of *different* products. Hook up a USB cable to the printer to update the firmware. The version you have now is probably fine as long as it isn't version 14.12 or 14.12.1.

By the way - never do that with a laser cutter! You will likely start many many fires and you really need to be there to put them out. Not in the next room.

3rd party parts such as the olsson block work great. The "head" is identical and the circuit board underneath is identical. The power supply is smaller on the um2go. Heated bed is needed if you want to print ABS. But there is no longer any good reason to need ABS. It's not stronger (but some claim it is). The main advantage of ABS is that it can handle higher temps (think car with window rolled up on hot summer day - around 140F or 55C. However now there is a high temp PLA from protopasta! After you print you backe at a low temp for a while and it's suddenly worthy of high temps. Of course it probably only comes in one color for now. Once the bottom layer is in good shape I usually feel it is fine to walk away - but only after you have the experience of at least 20 successful prints of similar nature. Once you go for a larger size print or something with different amounts of overhang or shape it's best if you are there. But if you've printed 10 chess pieces with no issue it's okay to go off to work or go to sleep. As far as safety to say an apartment - it's pretty darn safe. At UM headquarters they power the head to full power for hours to see what happens. It's isn't pretty and will make some smoke but it won't burn down your apartment.

It's nice to see the quality from stratasys is just as bad as a typical Ultimaker when running properly. For a minute I thought it was going to blow the UM out of the water, lol.

Katon tape looks like this:

1) Try to make sure the shroud is blowing on the part and not the nozzle - you don't want it to cool the nozzle or block. A few tiny pieces of kapton tape may help with this - they can be found at pretty much any electronics soldering station - it's a brownish, yellowish tape. aka polyimide tape. It can handle something crazy - I think 600C ? 300C? I forget but it can be right on the block. 2) Maybe get a more powerful heater - I sell a 35W heater also. I haven't had to go this route. 3) Turn fans on slowly over at least 1mm. If they come on from 0% to 100% the PID controller panics. 4) The way this error is actually created is as follows - understanding it helps you fix the problem - basically having the fans come on slowly is probably all you need to do: So basically it would help to make sure you have firmware 15.01 and not older. And also bring fans on slowly, lol.

Pronterface is a fantastic tool if you don't have it - it lets you measure all the sensors like end stops easily and change acceleration parameters, max speed parameters and so much more but most importantly you can move Z slowly by any amount. Free download here: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/

I could rig something up to find out, I can guarantee its significantly more than the stock UMO or UM2 feeders. The stepper motor is larger and has a 5:1 planetary gearbox so it should have roughly 5x the pulling force. I'd really like to see the test - it's very easy if you have a scale and a bucket and something heavy to put in the bucket and a bungee. Oh and I guess you need pronterface so you can move the Z slowy and watch the scale carefully. The feeder may be 5X but the grip strength is probably only 2X (two sides instead of one). I agree with your comment about retraction by the way. I've heard that splined extruders (versus diamond knurled pattern) have the problem that they can get PLA dust in them that doesn't fall out as easily as the knurled pattern.

It's kind of a secret but if you search the forums you can probably figure it out. I'll pm you the location.

Acceleration is in the menu under motion settings I believe. They will not get saved the next time you power cycle unless you specifically save them to eeprom. The menu's are different depending on the firmware version and I don't know what has what. You can also modify acceleration settings with gcodes. Note that color is more important than brand - crazy as that sounds. For example white PLA from at least 3 different manufactures seems to be more melty at 210C than most and it tends to string more and slightly more difficult to use for most projects. It must have to do with the most commonly used dyes? Matte finishes look - so much better.

I don't think you've even said what printer you have. Can you also supply a picture or 5 second video of the "short belt getting loose"? I'm not sure what you mean.