gr5

Like I said, "I'm surprised he liked his fifth gen MB". Maybe they have them mostly working by now? It's been a few years but even this past winter at a 3d printing show in NYC I heard horror stories.

I'm not sure what you are asking. I have windows 7 (64 bit) and I can connect to my UM2 through USB just fine. I rarely do it (a few times per year) but it works fine. Some people lately complained that Cura wouldn't recognize their printer - not sure if this is what you are talking about - anyway they were able to connect by installing the Arduino IDE which installs the USB driver (UM2 has a Arduino chip and so the USB is maintained by the Arduino community). I never had to do this because Cura is supposed to come with the USB driver. When you install Cura there is a point where it goes off on a tangent and asks if you want to install the USB driver and then runs the Arduino installer. When you plug your USB cable into windows machine it should make those 2 tones indicating it recognized a USB device. If you have "device manager" open it will show up in there either as an unrecognized USB device, or if the arduino driver is installed it will recognize it as a com port such as "COM5" "COM9", "COM23" or similar. I have 4 UM printers - 2 of which have never been connected through USB so I'm not sure why you care - and they print great. Maybe you are talking about a totally different issue? Printing through USB instead of SD card? That's more involved and a trickier issue to solve.

I can't help you with the important answers but "F" stands for feedrate and is in mm/minute so it is 60X larger than mm/sec. For example 50mm/sec is a F3000. It's the requested speed of ALL axes but since all moves are linear and E axis (extruder) moves the smallest amount the extruder rarely actually moves at the feedrate unless it is moving by itself.

I'm not sure what causes that. I've seen that before also. But not very often. I agree that bed temp is not related. I think it's possibly too much flow - caused by bad leveling - (head too close to glass). Your leveling is very close so stop using the procedure and just tighten the 3 screws by 1/4 turn or half turn to see if that "bubble" stuff gets better.

Did you ever measure the diameter of the white filament with a micrometer?

You should fix that first. It's not so hard. There is a USB driver you need. It was supposed to install the driver when you installed Cura but maybe you skipped that on purpose? The driver also comes with the Arduino IDE software - you might want to install Arduino IDE just to get the latest USB driver for Arduino devices. If you have a Windows machine you should hear a sound when you plug in the USB cable (bah-bump!). Two notes. And when you unplug it the tones go backwards (higher pitch then lower pitch). If you don't hear that something is wrong with usb cable or your arduino or your computer. Get that all working first. Also the port should show up in device manager (if you have wnidows) when the driver is working as COM5 or similar. Not really no. The fan power is turned on full 19V then 0V back and forth about 10 times per second. Some 12V fans can handle that but many will burn up in seconds. That thing about cold extrudes have nothing to do with x,y.z axis. It only affects the E axis (extruder). So ignore what I said about heating up the nozzle or sending an override gcode. Did you try homing the Z axis? It might not let you move it until after you home it.

Just to help you understand the code, the variable temp_iState[0] stores the error each time through the loop. It is the integration or the sum of the error. then iterm[0] is set to this error multiplied by Ki and added into the terms for the pid_output variable which sets the power to the heater.

Okay - I looked at this code just now and I disagree. There was no bug. The Ki term is used 2 lines of code below: iTerm[e] = Ki * temp_iState[e]; Your now multiplying by Ki twice. This means your ki value instead of being set to 2 is actually the equivalent of being set to ki squared or 4. If you change the code back to the official code and set I=4.0 in your PID settings you should get the same results.

francfalco is smart - he made the part smaller for testing purposes. I would go even smaller. A 10mm by 10mm by 5mm tall part.

If I remember right that paper said the particles were very similar to the particles you get when you fry foods. If you can cook a single hamburger indoors without ventilation you should be able to print 24 hours a day on a single printer. Last I heard frying food isn't particularly bad for your lungs or body (as long as you don't eat it).

Keep in mind that all of these printers are finicky and tricky and you should stay away from companies less than 2 years old as the quality control isn't as good. 3d printers are more similar to running a cnc lathe than they are to using a 2d printer in terms of knowledge needed. But I think you will most likely be happy with an Ultimaker.

Follow my link above and look at the UP printer. don't ask us. I suspectyou will spend enough extra money on UP filament to buy 3 Ultimaker printers.

As long as it keeps working I think you will print at 110% for thousands of prints with this machine - but if you ever get another UM2 I think you will find it prints fine at 100%. It's a mystery and it bugs me. I'm very curious as to the cause. When someone figures this out I will post here but it may be months or years before someone figures this out. You aren't the only one with this problem but not enough people have the problem that someone smart figured it out.

What harmful particles? Are we talking about carbon fiber filaments? I don't think those filaments are any stronger so I'm not familiar with any harmful particles.

I'm really surprised about the MB 5th gen - at shows and elsewhere I've only heard terrible things about it and how you have to buy a new $100 extruder after every other print because of clogs. But people love the older makerbots. The most unbiased, comprehensive comparison of 3d printers I can find is here: https://www.3dhubs.com/best-3d-printer-guide For me "open source" didn't seem important until I already had the printer and I realized how important it was and the attitudes that go with it. You can usually hack your UM2 and still have a 1 year warranty. With MB you can't even use 3rd party filaments. Need to print 5 degrees hotter than firmware lets you on Ultimaker? No problem - someone has a version of the firmware for that or you can do it yourself. On closed source printers? Forget it.

Wow. Is that a rendering or did you actually print and paint that?

I don't know. For now you might want to just increase flow to 110%, increase temp to 225C.

More details here: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/4735-a-fix-for-ultimaker-2-heated-bed-not-working

I figured. Changing the firmware to ignore the heated is likely a much larger task - and I'm a software guy so I usually go for the software solutions but not in this case. You don't actually have to solder anything - just reheat the existing solder. But you need a good quality soldering iron and a small amount of experience.

I really don't know that much about using Cura through USB cable. You should do this using pronterface. A free download. Cura is first and foremost a great slicer. It never was very good at doing printing through usb. Pronterface is the opposite: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/

After you calibrated the x,y,z did you save to eeprom? If not and you power off the printer you lose those values. This does *not* look like a cube - I think maybe your Z is off. That is why it was overextruding because Z axis is not moving enough. Probably by about 2X. Maybe a jumper is wrong and you are doing 8 microsteps when you thought it was 16?

So it is in fact 282 steps/mm. That's the nominal value - the value in 99% of UM2s out there. Did you test how far filament moves when it's not in the head and you move it 100mm?

First of all this is extremely to fix on your own if you know how to solder - it's usually the little pads at the connector or a loose screw on those smaller wires (the pt100). You can alternatively somehow get around 108 ohms (higher is fine but stay under 200 ohms) across the leads going out to the temp sensor. For example use aligator clips.

You should really talk to printrbot people. Not this forum.

I don't know where to get the source code for the version of Marlin that printrbot uses. You should contact them. It's probably on github somewhere. Once you have that you can play with Configuration.h - it's very simple - just read the file and it's full of detailed comments. Building Marlin is a little tricky but not too bad. You have to know what kind of arduino is on the printrbot. For example the UMO has the mega2560 which at the time was the most powerful arduino you could buy but now there are more powerful ones I think and the UM2 has some newer arduino. The rest of the procedure I know how to do... Basically you download and install arduino ide: http://arduino.cc/en/main/software Then copy the sanguino software as explained in README file. Open Marlin.ino file in Arduino IDE by double clicking it (not pde file as stated in README - I think that's old). Select board as "Mega 2560" (for umo only) as explained in README file. Go to "file" "preferences" and select "verbose output" so you can find your hex file. Then build it by clicking the check box in the upper left corner. At the bottom you will see it compiling Marlin. At the end of this it says where the hex file is. If you are currently connected to your UM through USB you can just click "file" "upload" and you are done! But you should locate that hex file and save it somewhere along with the Configuration.h file used to create it so you can recreate the same version with maybe one change. Also you can upload the hex file using Cura in expert menu. Alternatively you can build Marlin with somewhat more detailed step by step instructions the command line way (which I don't prefer): http://www.extrudable.me/2013/05/03/building-marlin-from-scratch/