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I'm sure they'll send you a new print bed. Don't touch the ticket once opened as you go back to the end of the line if you add to it (bad feature - they know). 38C is very hot for room temperature! I doubt it's that hot where you keep the printer. You should also check the wires underneath the printer - under the larger cover - it's held on by only 2 screws. Rebolt those down tight and see if that fixes the problem. If not I would remove those under the cover and check the resistance from that end. It should be 107 or 108 ohms if working properly. 113 ohms is too much. If it's bad at the end of the cable, test again at the heated bed at the screws and test again on the tiny sensor on the board. Somewhere in that path (or the resistor itself) is a problem. http://www.intech.co.nz/products/temperature/typert.html

That's great news but if I was running the company I would have the entire engineering department drop everything and help out with customer support until the backlog got back down to under 24 hours. It would suck for all the engineers at first and delay the release of new stuff but they would also learn some things and they would teach the "permanent" tech support a few things also. And they would probably rewrite the ticketing system!

Cancelling orders just increases the backlog but cancellations and other "money issues" are taken care of by different people at UM than the ones who help you with broken temp sensor or whatever. Even though it's the same phone number/website/email. The "money issues" tend to be taken care of much faster (like 2 days versus 2 weeks). As far as "ready to ship" this is confusing because the software that takes the money is run by a 3rd party company and it doesn't seem to know anything about stock. So it really just means your money is valid. Unlike a UM2, the HBKs don't take much work to assemble, but sometimes there is a bunch of kits waiting for some part.

Lance please update your profile to specify which printer you have. Also location (country). Yes definitely you can drill out nozzle larger. I've done that with both UMO and UM2. For UMO you can get nozzles for $5 which covers shipping (again - what country are you in - I'm guessing USA even though I'm probably wrong) of all kinds of nozzle hole sizes. This is very helpful for materials like woodfill where the sawdust can clog the nozzle. However, I printed protopasta carbon fiber with a regular .4mm nozzle with no trouble. The problem is the flat surface gets larger and larger the more you use the filament and quality of parts degrades quickly until all your parts look like crap. Also like I said, protopasta is neither stronger nor less flexible than regular PLA. As far as I can tell it has ZERO upsides except that you can brag (I printed carbon fiber!) and it's a brag that only makes you sound stupid. Plus the fibers might be bad for you lungs. Or maybe the color. But I bet there is a nice flat black PLA out there that looks just as good.

Nicolinux just went through this. He is still calibrating is 3DR Delta. You should message him: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/user/16181-nicolinux/ So it looks like you are using the arduino gui to build marlin. I have lots of notes on this. Read the README file that comes with Marlin - it talks about how to set things up. There is some other package you have to install and also you need to select the correct arduino cpu - for ultimaker that's the mega2560. Probably for 3DR also but I don't know.

I didn't see "backwards normals". You didn't mention how you created your STL file at that point in the conversation and a *lot* of people use sketchup - and sketchup is particularly popular among architects and this looked like a building so I just guessed. I have to do that a lot (guess) as many people won't even post pictures.

I thought someone else might answer. I don't know how many different configurations Marlin supports. And I don't know migbots. But one way to do home (the way I understand best) is to have a homing switch click when table is just barely touching nozzle. Is that what you did? I would hookup pronterface - do you have that installed? And do various gcode commands with pronterface to see how the migbot behaves. Especially I would work on the home command. You can build your own version of Marlin here: http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/ I think you need to be more specific in your questions. You can usually change steps/mm either with jumpers near the stepper drivers or using the above marlinbuilder. Does your migbot have a ulticontroller or simlar? In otherwards can you print through SD card inside the printer or is USB the only way?

Just the bottom layer to get it to stick well. And also it should be brought up slowly to not mess up nozzle temp PID controller. But that's it. Of course for ABS fan is bad. It has a higher glass temp so it has totally different issues. When you watch the old technology slicers print the UM robot - the ones that are used to ABS it's funny to watch because the fan comes on and off maybe 4 times per layer! That's very helpful for ABS. Turn it on to 30% for bridging then turn it off.

By the way the most common cause of excess resistance is the end caps that hold the rods from slipping out.

That is a pretty small amount of layer shift so I'm skeptical. Anyway layer shift can be caused by either excessive friction or loose pulley screw. Is this X axis slipping? Obviously only one axis has the problem. Usually the slip is at the stepper motor or the pulley above (the 2 pulleys on the short belt). Most often the motor pulley as this has the most force on it. Tighten the hell out of those 2 set screws. The shaft of the tool should twist. If you got your UM from ultimaker then it should also have come with a spare set of silver colored screws (the set inside the pulleys are black). The silver ones are pointier and better. But not mandatory. Check that the short X belt is not rubbing the wood. Watch the short X belt while printing. Does it twist one way when moving right and the other way when moving left? If so it is rubbing the wood slightly. Fix this by moving it away from the wood. Either add one washer under each of the 4 plastic spacers or move the pulley closer to the motor (as close as possible without touching - about .5mm). Finally, like Tommy says above, check resistance. You should be able to easily move the head with your smallest finger of each hand on opposite blocks.

The raised issue happens on leaning cylinders also. In fact that's where I see it most often due to meshmixer supports which are round but lean and the head hits them and can knock them over. My solution is to make them stronger (8mm typically diameter instead of default which I think is 4mm and 10mm at the base with brim). They still have raised edges and the head hits them but they usually withstand the force.

@yellowshark The fan helps hugely with raised points/edges. @michal - yes that's the most common cause of imperfect prints. For people who need their print to look *perfect* you can simply print at 20mm/sec. However if you want perfection *and* speed you need the "advance" feature which doesn't work quite right - I don't think it has the math quite right. My favorite writeup on "advance" is here by bernard (inventor of ulticontroller but doesn't work for ultimaker): http://bernhardkubicek.soup.io/post/168776124/Another-acceleration-extrusion-compensation-for-repraps Click on the middle "reaction" button near the bottom that showes the graph. Note that vertical axis is *velocity* and not distance. It shows infinite jerk at transition points which can be fixed by forcing the movement of the head to have a smoother shape. NONE OF THIS HAS ANYTHING TO DO WITH RAISED EDGES PROBLEM WHICH OCCURS EVEN AT 20MM/SEC PRINT SPEED.

This existing block is already ahead. Let's sell this thing! I doubt they will come out with multiple nozzle sizes within a year and if they do it will be probably €120 for 3 nozzle sizes. Seriously if you make 10 I'll pay the €600 euros and distribute to whomever wants them in North America and handle the billing and all. By the way I might miss posts to this thread. I haven't yet but... it can happen. So if I don't respond within 24 hours please send me a direct message.

Different issue. blobby corners are best fixed by printing slower. The problem is that with the bowden extruder it stores up lots of pressure so as you print the edge of a cube and as it slows down it overextrudes especially the last bit of corner approach (where it decelerates) then it accelerates down the next wall and underextrudes briefly until the pressure builds up. Printers with the feeder on the head don't have this problem so bad as UM. One fix is to print at 20mm/sec because the "jerk" setting is 20mm/sec and so basically Marlin will not decelerate below that speed (roughly - it's a little more complicated but this is a good approximation). Even 30mm/sec is slow enough to not have much blobs on corners. But at 20mm/sec the feeder is running at a constant rate, never speeding up or slowing down and you get perfect extrusion. Some day we'll replace the arduino with a cell phone cpu and be able to write better firmware that preloads the filament while accelerating and pre-unloads on deceleration so that we can print at 100mm/sec and get perfect corners. This will characterize things so well we won't have to say to "retract" as it will be part of normal movement to retract exactly what is necessary for a given move. Anyway this is different from the "raised edges on overhangs" issue.

superslimeboy - are you near montreal or quebec? We have 2 active forum members there: mariem and pm_dude. They've met each other "in real life".

By the way, some people actually want an air pocket in their model. Maybe they want a cube with a spherical hole in the center and they can drop a marble in the hole when the hole is 3/4 done printing. Who knows. So one should be able to model that and print that. Cura lets you do that. Having "interior" walls confuses things.

I looked at your "this busts cura" stl file. The file is perfect except for that one picture frame near the bottom of the stairs. You can tell by doing "xray view" and anything in red means a beam of light in that direction passes through an odd number of walls. This means there is either an extra wall or a missing wall. Once you fix that, you should be able to uncheck all the fix horrible settings except leave "keep open faces". You need that because your surface normals are messed up. Did you do this in sketchup? Sketchup by default has walls that are gray on one side and white on the other. If you don't want to have to check "keep open faces" you have to make sure only white walls are visible I believe. It's trivial to swap - you select a bunch of gray faces, right click and do "reverse faces" or something like that.

Prints don't pop off so nicely if you don't let the glass cool. Anyway to answer your question - at the end of every print there is a really loud noise of the Z axis moving downward. Think of that as an alarm. Go over to the printer and do "maintenance" "advanced" "bed temp" (or something like that) and set the temp to desired temp. In fact I always go 1 degree hotter (51C in my case). Are you printing PLA or ABS? I always print PLA at 50C - it only takes 2 to 3 minutes to get from 20C to 50C.

Yes, looks like underextrusion. There are many causes. The most common is printing too cold and too fast so lets check that first. .06mm 50mm/sec at 220C? Is that right? Please confirm. That's the equivalent of 15mm/sec at .2mm layers and according to this graph (stay slower than half the blue line) the top speed at 220 .2mm layer is about 35mm/sec. So you are printing half of top recommended speed for 220Cwhich should be fine. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4127-um2-extrusion-rates-revisited/ Other likely problems - filament tangles. Check your filament every 15 minutes for tangles. Even better put the filament on the floor. It goes into the feeder at such as severe angle that it makes it tough for the feeder. Maybe this isn't a problem for Roberts's feeder. Still it's a trivial thing to do. This is how we roll... Next thing is isolator and nozzle. These both require 10 minutes of taking the head apart. It's really not hard. I can link to a video if you want. Just start by removing the side fans and then the 4 longs screws. Be very gentle with the nut with the holes in it that holds the nozzle itself - in fact you should probably heat it to 160C while unscrewing the nozzle to melt any "pla glue". Also be very gentle with the temp probe and heater probe. Check the white isolator - put filament through it. Especially slightly bent filament. If resistance is high consider drilliing it out until your new one arrives. Also burn out the nozzle - there may be something on the walls of the nozzle causing a partial clog. Have you tried the "atomic method" aka cold pull? http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4118-blocked-nozzle/?p=33691 Your feeder should be able to put out about 5kg of force. If it's skipping you can increase that force by about 20% by increasing the current. You can add this command anywhere near the top of your gcode except to 1.5 amps. Don't go higher. And don't do this if it isn't skipping backwards as it won't help and will just make the extruder hotter which can melt the pla and cause the filament to grind. M907 E1250 sets extruder current to 1.25 amps which is the default

Some/many UM2's are built in USA and shipped from USA but I don't think the HBK is.

Experiments are good!

Adding supports definitely works. You only have to support the corners. So if it's an upside down pyramid you can have 4 diagonal walls supporting the corners only and it works great. It only has to touch occasionally - say once per mm. The problem is the "rubber band effect" where the liquid filament is cooling and shrinking and it sticks to itself so that you are laying down a liquid string that is under tension and telling it to go around a corner so I don't think: jerk,acceleartion will help I'm not sure that anyone experimented with layer height - that's one of the simplest things to try. Maybe someone did. Duplicate outlines also has some merit - although I suspect it would give it 2 times to make things worse (the problem tends to get worse each time, not better). Reversing the fan seems to me the equivalent of turning off the fan. One property of fans (and blowing versus sucking) is that when you blow there is momentum to the air and it goes relatively straight. When you suck there is no momentum and the air comes from *all* directions. This means the airflow is not where you want it. I've always been amazed at how poorly "sucking" works with fans whether they be window fans or other. This video and diagram demonstrates that nicely - look at the blue arrows in the diagram or watch the 38 second video: http://www.thenakedscientists.com/HTML/content/kitchenscience/exp/jet-powered-rotor/

I recommend you create the gcode with Cura and then use pronterface/printrun. I have no idea what that log might be saying but the UMO and UM2 don't do to well with USB printing. In fact it's not officially supported on UM2. And I assume RigidBot has Marlin and uses arduino. So I recommend trying a different program to send the data (gcode). Also consider trying a different USB cable and a different computer. Or add a USB buffer of some sort to boost the signal. Or run the USB cable in a different path (away from EM interference - away from electronics and fluorescent lights). printrun/pronterface/prontrface download: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/

Ah - I get it now. e3d nozzles. Well pm-dude is in canada - not so far. I can probably ship to him. And melkolo is in USA. So I'm willing to pay for 10 if you promise not to sell any in North America until I unload those 10. I'll pay for them up front through paypal when you are ready to ship. After the first 10 if things work out well maybe I can expand my shipping department. Or maybe I'll decide it's not something I want to do. One of my worries is that it will leak around the nozzle threads. Regarding what UM is doing - I've seen their new nozzle designs and they are going in so many different directions there's no way to tell where they will end up. They are doing so many experiments with completely different designs. Anything you can imagine they are trying it out and running into problems with every way they go. I don't think they will have anything for at least 6 months. But I don't know. I'm pretty sure that even none of the UM employess know if the next nozzle will be quick change or not. Will be all metal or not. Will be able to handle 300C or not. Will be flexidrive driven, or not. Will support PVA or not. Will support other nozzle sizes or not. Will need an entirely new head. Or not. Will be custom nozzle depending on material or not (the melt zone moves depending on the glass point of the material so with ABS you can have longer bronze section near the tip but that's bad for PLA - or maye I have that backwards). It's just all up in the air.

Obviously there is a HUGE difference between the photo in post #4 and #9. It looks to me like a huge improvement. You gto rid of the pillowing completely. There are hundreds of printing issues. Please don't confuse the 2 issues above with each other. I'm pretty sure any problems in post #9 is completely different than issues in post #4. I doubt there will be any difference between printing at 210C versus 203C. Also printing 40% infill should be unnecessary. I usually print 20% infill and never get pillowing. The 30mm/sec and the .1mm layer is what I believe fixed the pillowing. Now what is the problem with your latest print in the latest photo above? Is it the central area that is a problem? Or the border? I have to say that I have no idea what is going on at the border. That looks like infill for walls that haven't been printed yet. Is that correct? I'm going to guess that's not the problem, right? So the problem is in the center area? Can you explain the problem better please because it looks like a huge improvement over photo in post #4.