gr5

By the way I updated my parts list slightly as I managed to save some money and my total parts list is down to $395 post #132 in this forum - here's a direct link: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6657-let’s-design-a-multirotor-together/?p=69049 I will keep this topic informed. Contact me directly if you want any details and I'll probably publish the answers here. Everything is in flux plus the actual ordered parts were often on ebay and shipped from USA so the actual shopping links may not be relevant to you but they are easy to find once you know what the part is called e.g. "m3 8mm screws". The 3d printed frame by the way is about 250 grams which is about half to 1/3 the weight of the typical "500" quadcopter frame. And weaker but I can always just print up anything that breaks. My total weight is 1100 grams at this point including camera and gimbals and everything. The heaviest things are the frame (260g) the motors+props (250g) gopro+mount+gimbals (195g) and 2.2Ah 3S battery (105g).

I'm speeding ahead also. I already designed the critical 3d printed parts (still want to create prop guards and some kind of ninjaflex mount for camera) to get into the air. I care more about folding arms than water proof. And photography is by far the most important thing. That's the main reason for the asymmetry. Anyway I'm still waiting for a few more parts (RC wires, bullet connectors). I will publish my design when it's a little more "done" than it is now. It's a 500 meaning the diagonal motors are 500mm apart.

The fans are wired in serial. The wiring that breaks the most is just above or inside the print head. You can slide up the black netting (you might have to cut off some heat shrink) and inside you can see the 3 fan cables (black/red cables). Two of them are connected together with a short loop to make the fans serial. You want 24V across both fans with 12V across each. If you are getting 24V across one fan and <1V across the other then the fan with 24V across it is "open" or has a bad/broken wire or connection. You can turn the fans on without printing anything by "starting" a print but immediately go to TUNE menu and play with fan control there. As long as you stay inside TUNE menu the printer will not start printing.

While printing if you get this vibration (I've never gotten it) slow down the print in the TUNE menu. Normally it prints at 100% but you can speed up or slow it down so that the "bumps" aren't happening right at the harmonic for the bed. Wall thickness of .2mm is very bad. This means it will underextrude all the infill by 50%. So keep that at a multiple of your head diameter (as solid print states). The head diameter is .4mm. The warping at the front - is it like this picture (5th picture down on the left)? http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide Any problems not cleared up please post pictures next time as we may be giving you totally wrong advice and pictures are incredibly helpful. Gloucester England? Or Gloucester Mass?

Most of the noise on the UMO is *not* from the electronics, so: No, the UM2 is still quieter than the UM+. Most of the noise is from the steppers vibrating wood (think quitar, or violin). On the UM2 the steppers vibrate the dibond which is much quieter. I have a video comparing the volume of the two. Some UMO have an extremely loud electronics cooling fan (not problem for UM+). Some UM2 have extremely loud 3rd print head fan (not me). Both of my machines have quiet fans and the fans are not noticeable in the video I don't think:

For small prints you don't have to wait for the glass to cool. And for PLA you only have to heat up to above 40C (I heat to 50C to be well over the threshold). Glass is an improvement over blue tape. Heated bed is an improvement over raft. But you can always go back to the older technologies (blue tape or raft) and they will still work on a printer with glass. I also don't have a sink nearby. It's not a problem. I have a squirt water bottle to remoisten the PVA glue occasionally. Mostly only if I need to print a large print and if I have scraped some of the PVA glue off the bed. But even this is not necessary.

Daid knows about the problem where the bed slips down during leveling. I think he may have fixed this on a newer version of Cura but you would have to upgrade your firmware. But once your bed is leveled once you should be good for months. I haven't leveled my bed since the first time I installed the kit. The printer runs perfectly fine sideways or even upside down so you could run the printer on it's side with a fan blowing on the electronics or you could level the bed this way also.

Woah - good points. Firstly I didn't realize you could buy the UMO without the "+" option but checking the website it is possible. That heated bed is extremely important more for stiffness than for the heat but heat is wonderful too. The point about "not enough power" is a good point also. With the UMO and the heated bed upgrade you have to use both power supplies to run the second nozzle and heated bed at the same time. With UMO+ and second extruder - I'm not even 100% certain it will work but I don't know why it wouldn't. Power supply wise you would not be able to do dual extrusion *and* heated bed at the same time without going over the official limits of the power brick. Interesting point. So you might be able to still do dual but only if heated bed is off. Hmm.

You can but it's not recommended and not officially supported. The USB has an extremely high error rate (go ahead and look in the log file - typically thousands of checksum errors and retransmits). Don't know why as USB is a pretty mature technology but not so great with arduinos I guess. You will likely have to disable ultigcode and use normal gcode mode. Another choice is to use repetier host (it's free) to print you gcode file through USB. Or octoprint or doodle 3d: http://www.doodle3d.com/product/doodle3d-wifi-box/ Be warned you might have to go through a few usb cables and/or computers and/or USB buffer boxes to get a print to run for more than 10 minutes without halting due to errors.

UMO+ is kit only. UM2 is assembled only. Some people think UM2 is more beautiful. Much more beautiful. UMO seems to get features sooner than the UM2. For example you can get dual extrusion on UMO now, UM2 is "promised" 2015Q1. UM2 has slightly larger build volume. They both have excellent print quality. Now that UMO has heated, metal bed that is no longer the main difference. The only remaining difference is the homing. The homing for UM2 is better. It homes at the bottom with the bed all the way down. UMO homes all the way up which means any filament leaking out of the nozzle gets squished against the glass plate. It's really not a big deal. The lights on the UM2 are also nice - they light up the print area so well that people use it as a light box. I kind of mini photo studio. So if you aren't afraid to assemble the thing and you are willing to spend 20 hours doing it and you don't need the "prettiest printer" possible that looks good in your immaculate fancy home. Then go for the UMO+. The other advantage of the UMO is that nozzles are only $5 on ebay and you can get different nozzle hole diameters. Larger diameter for woodfill filament (it gets clogged easily in .4mm nozzle) and also for large prints you want to print fast. Smaller diameter for very tiny, detailed work. UM2 has the nozzle/heat chamber as one piece so you can't by third party replacements. Yet (I'm sure that will change). edit: Forgot to mention that UM2 is quieter also.

You can buy from makershed. Their store lets you know if they are in stock or not. If you buy from makershed you get the same support as if you buy directly from UM. Or you can send a direct message to Simon here as he is the head of UM USA: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/user/341-illuminarti/ I'm not sure if 100% of UM2's bought in USA are built in USA but the percentage should get to 100% at some point if not there already. It might be for example that makershed is 100% dutch made. Simon could tell you the answer.

If you don't want the parts to be "glued" together as they are printed you want at least a .2mm gap between parts. Also Cura has an option in "normal view" where you right click on your parts and choose "split an object into parts" and it will separate all the parts and you can move them far apart or print them one at a time, etc. Solidworks also allows you to save only some of the pieces into each stl. I don't know how to use solidworks but I'm sure it has things like "export current layer" or "export selected" or "export each piece to different file" or most likely all of those features.

Photo please. Are you experiencing "pillowing"? See first photo here: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide

It is probably hairspray (sin perfume!): http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2013/07/spray-for-3d-printing-3d-lac.html

It's not a scan. It's an artists representation. One with talent.

:lol: ha ha. um. well. :lol: ha ha. I keep thinking that but then I print something that I've never printed before. And then I have to run some new tests.

Any store that sells paint will likely sell acetone. Nail polish remover is mostly water. I wouldn't use it. So: paint stores hardware stores

Which one? You have 5 pictures. Here is a crop of the most recent picture. It's a good picture but not good enough: My eyes hurt from staring at this picture. The darker bands seem to have a somewhat regular pattern for example the 5 green lines - you have 3 bands equally spaced, then a gap, then 2 more. This kind of pattern seems to repeat all over the part. Then looking at the lower 2 red arrows the part seems skinnier aligned with *lighter* regions but the upper arrow shows a skinnier area lined up with a *darker* region. I'm not sure what's going on: Is it the photo? Do you care about the dark/light? Do you care about the thicker/skinnier issue? Or is it the same issue but the photo isn't good enough for me to tell? I have a $1000 camera but my cell phone tends to take better macro photography. If you aren't using a cell phone maybe you should try it. Anyway, I tend to believe you that the problem is z screw related. Especially because the banding seems to be somewhat regular. What is your layer thickness again? I wonder if thicker layers (.2mm) have less banding because screw errors might be less obvious. But if the problem is on a scale of 1mm then .2mm layers won't be any better than .1mm layers and the green pattern appears to be much thicker than .2mm!

If I set the nozzle temp to 220 it overshoots to maybe 230 but by the time I start printing it sits between 219 and 221 for the entire print. An exception might be when the fans come on but within 30 seconds or so it's back to 220.

I have tried hairspray on glass for ABS but have not tried it for Nylon. 95% of my prints this year have been PLA. This suggests PVA glue on glass. I used wood glue but this guy used glue stick. Also different types of nylons are easier/harder to get to stick to glass: http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,233826 This guy likes glue which I strongly suspect is PVA also: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:114868

Between 24% and 25% Cura changes it's algorithm for infill. At 24% it prints basically the same pattern on every layer. At 25% it prints the same pattern but odd layers all the lines are parallel and on the next (even) layer all the lines run in the other direction perpendicular to the odd layer. This pattern looks much more dense looking down on the print but has more gaps (or at least isn't as strong bonding between layers) when looking horizontally. I have no idea if this truly helps pillowing or not. I would expect it would help as the final support is closer together.

Print slower and cooler. This is a difficult print. For maximum beauty I would print at 25mm/sec and 200C. Make sure travel speed is at least 200mm/sec to avoid plastic leaking out while spanning those gaps.

Move material upwards? There's a "move material" menu item. Have you not found it yet? Or you can just yank on the filament behind the machine. The extruder motor is off most of the time. It turns on when you start a print, home, load filament, move material. But after 60 seconds or so it turns off again and you can just push filament in and out by hand.

Australia has an excellent filament supplier called diamond age. They make fantastic filament. I recommend using them.

Ah! Then it's probably Z axis. Or belts too loose - make sure the belts are all tight. Especially the short belts. If the XY belts are loose then I would expect different layers to stick out different amounts depending on where the Z scar is and depending if the head is travelling clockwise or counter clockwise. Yes, more focused higher resolution - or just cropped closer to one of the problem areas. I can't tell in the photo if the plastic actually changes color, if there are tiny tiny holes (underextrusion) if layers stick out (now you say they do) or what it is that is different on different layers. But it sounds like you have layers that "squish" out because Z moves too far on some layers and not enough on others. This is more common on the UMO as the UM2 has a much better Z screw/nut combination.