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That would be nice.

Maybe your temp sensor is off by 30C. Heat nozzle to 110C - keep temp there for one minute. Then put your finger in water and touch one drop to nozzle tip. It should be very quiet but if you look closely you should see lots of fast moving boiling bubbles. If not your temp sensor might be defective.

Please post a picture otherwise we have no idea what you talk about. 1) It could be you turned on spiralize like daid says. 2) Something else? 3) It could be pillowing maybe? First picture here: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide

McMaster sells a pack of 10 for $2.29, Part # 51055K413.

I recommend 245C for nozzle. No fan. 100C for heated bed if you have one. UM Original or UM2?

Doesn't work - for example if you scale up X,Y,Z by 2X now the nozzle has to output 8 times as much for each line. Plus if your layer height was .2mm now it's .4mm which doesn't look so good. If you only increase by 10% it might work but you need to scale up the E axis (extruder) by 1.1 cubed or 1.33. Anyway, no, there is no such feature. If you scale up or down it's really best to completely reslice it at the new scale. The printer is really designed to print exactly .4mm wide traces of plastic (it will go down to .2mm or up to .6mm just fine but really .4mm is the best).

Local glass store? I don't recommend this for heated bed. It's not necessary. You can use regular glass as long as you give it space to expand. Also don't throw water on it when it is at 100C as that will likely shatter the glass. Regular glass is cheap enough that you can buy 10 sheets of regular glass and that will last you 10 years of printing versus one sheet of pyrex glass. Even Ultimaker doesn't use borosilicate glass for their heated beds. I think they use tempered glass.

UM original or UM2? You want the drawings that show the corners and holes? Or do you want to know max print volume?

You adjust the gap by rotating the nut. The nut is not a normal nut - it is round instead of hexagonal and it has 6(?) holes through it that you can use a tool on to rotate the nut. The purpose of the nut is to raise or lower the nozzle - this is important for dual extrusion to get both nozzles the exact same height within .01mm or so. However dual extrusion has never worked on UM2 so it's a feature not needed. My impression is that the gap should be 1mm *or smaller*. This is to keep the spring from pushing too hard and deforming the isolator. Maybe there is another reason that I don't know about. BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN ROTATING THE NUT. It is not strong - there are brass and/or copper parts involved which are soft and easily ripped. Only rotate when the nozzle is at 180C (because the PLA acts like a strong glue in the threads if not hot) and if you seem to be twisting with much force consider taking it apart enough so the spring is removed also. In fact it's easiest to rotate the nut by sticking a thin screwdriver through two opposite holes which you can only do if you remove the white isolator first. Although this design is meant to be rotated with the head assembled so you can "level the 2 nozzles".

These numbers don't seem quite right to me. I suspect this table is meant to work with a 10k resistor instead of a 4.7k resistor. There are many 10k thermistors out there all with very different properties which mean each manufacturer would need a different table. Same thing is true of 100k thermistors. So I suggest you get only the recommended reprap 100k thermistors. Much more information here: http://reprap.org/wiki/Thermistor#RRRF_10K_Thermistor

The only 10k thermistor table that comes with Marlin is this one: https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/blob/Marlin_v1/Marlin/thermistortables.h #if (THERMISTORHEATER_0 == 4) || (THERMISTORHEATER_1 == 4) || (THERMISTORHEATER_2 == 4) || (THERMISTORBED == 4) //10k thermistor const short temptable_4[][2] PROGMEM = { {1*OVERSAMPLENR, 430}, {54*OVERSAMPLENR, 137}, {107*OVERSAMPLENR, 107}, {160*OVERSAMPLENR, 91}, {213*OVERSAMPLENR, 80}, {266*OVERSAMPLENR, 71}, {319*OVERSAMPLENR, 64}, {372*OVERSAMPLENR, 57}, {425*OVERSAMPLENR, 51}, {478*OVERSAMPLENR, 46}, {531*OVERSAMPLENR, 41}, {584*OVERSAMPLENR, 35}, {637*OVERSAMPLENR, 30}, {690*OVERSAMPLENR, 25}, {743*OVERSAMPLENR, 20}, {796*OVERSAMPLENR, 14}, {849*OVERSAMPLENR, 7}, {902*OVERSAMPLENR, 0}, {955*OVERSAMPLENR, -11}, {1008*OVERSAMPLENR, -35} }; The number on the right is the temperature in C. So if room temperature is around 20C then you expect the ADC reading to be 743 (out of range of 0 to 1023 which corresponds to 0 to 5V) so that means you should have 5*743/1024 or about 3.5 volts yet it is reading 0 volts or 5 volts to get that error. Check your wiring with a volt meter. Did you install the 4.7k resistor? Is it the right resistance? The circuitry is very simple - it's just a 2 resistor circuit. Also known as a "resistor divider": http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voltage_divider#Resistive_divider Where one resistor is at 4700 ohms and the other (the thermistor) roughly 1.9k at 20C. If you don't understand this and/or don't have a multimeter, find someone who does.

Ha! Illuminarti knows - at least he knows one of the several announcements. He probably knows them all.

Hey, welcome. Is there any chance you will go to MakerFaire NYC? There will by about 70,000 people and roughly 7 people from the forum will be there including myself. And some UM employees will be flying in from The Netherlands. And there is a cool announcement from UM on Sep 18 in NYC - if you can make ti let me know and I'll secure an invitation for you and your friends. More details here - as a minimum watch the teaser video (it's only 30 seconds long): umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6815-makerfaire-nyc-2014/

This is the bottom layer. Does the next layer look better? For ABS try 245C instead of 260C. Also I recommend bed temp of 100C. I'm not sure what the edge is - it might be overextrusion or dripping - leveling might be too high (but that will be fixed on second layer so try second layer). Might be flowing too freely at 260C.

This is what I mean about the feeder pattern on the filament The printer that made the purple left pattern was grinding the filament flat. The filament on the right was from a working printer. The white filament was also from a working printer. Both working printers have done incredible amounts of retraction no problem - like 100,000 retractions on a single print! Like 500 meters of retractions for one print.

No. I really don't know what the problem is. Some printers do this (flatten the filament). I think printing slower won't help. I have a theory that the stepper is so hot that it melts the PLA a little bit. But that theory is most likely wrong. Well this will DEFINITELY fix your problem. But it might cause lots of stringing.

I thought that was maybe you. I remember the conversation. We talked on the first day I think (Saturday). I'm glad you got one of the first ever UM2s. For UM2 spare parts you will likely have better luck with Simon/Illuminarti. Send him a PM through the forums. I could be wrong though. I bet you can get a nozzle and bowden from someone for free if you are around late Sunday. Probably just for a beer or something! In fact you might want to go out to dinner with us Friday, Saturday, or Sunday night. I don't know what my plans are but there is a good chance I will be with the UM team at least 2 of those nights. Did you maybe bring your wife with you last year? Will you be around Sep 18? If so I'll get you an invitation to the party/announcement that night (6pm in Manhattan). I suspect UM will be selling UM Original kits - perhaps some kind of *new* kit? UM doesn't tell me much so I don't know. I recommend you wait on the UM Original until they come out with the new heated bed at least. But hopefully that will be this Sep 18.

I'm quite sure that will fix the problem but now you will almost never have retractions. 3mm is a LOT of extruding! Illuminarti has fixed some printers with this issue. I believe he fixed it by adjusting feeder - moving the sleeve inward - towards the printer - and also the spring tension. I don't know if he made it looser or tighter. Also he wonders if some sleeves have different pattern (sharper? duller?). He found that if you look at the filament carefully sometimes you have one column of diamond shaped holes and sometimes you have two columns. He thinks 2 columns are better (better grip on the filament). He only moved the sleeve a tiny amount - maybe 0.5mm? I'm not convinced this matters.

Yes. But it's complicated by the fact that E values are sums/totals for "the entire print so far". I was wondering how you handle switching to the other print with different E starting value. Do you adjust all the new values? Or do you use the G92 command (reset position)? For example lets say you cut off the first print at E1000 (1000 cubic mm of filament used so far) and the layer to start next happens to start at E2000. You can either do a G92 E2000 to reset the position or you can subtract 1000 from all the future E values. Now with your multiplier - lets call it 1.5. If the next line goes to E2001 you don't want to multiply by 1.5 to get E3001.5 - you want to go to E2001.5 So you are multiplying the deltas by your multiplier. Not the absolute values. Alternatively you can multiply all the new E values by the multiplier but do a G92 3000 just before this. Too many choices!

It's a beard?

The only thing you should have to do is tell Cura that your new nozzle size and set the shell thickness to a multiple of your nozzle size. Perhaps the new nozzle has a bad shape? Perhaps the tip isn't flat? (I change nozzle sizes often)

What robert said. Except that I believe it is caused not due to gravity but thermal expansion of the filament. It happens if the printer is upside down also. Cool head lift is a huge improvement over not using it but even better is to print a tower or two objects side by side. But only if you want showcase quality.

well - mostly. And I've played with this. But for a newbie I reccomend you stick to integral multiples. For example if you print .5 shell with .4 nozzle you are sort-of overextruding by 25% in the sense that the feeder has to work harder and there is more pressure in the nozzle. If you are near the limit of what the printer can do this will push it over the edge. It takes more force to squeeze out that filament in the thin crack at the tip of the nozzle. But, yes, it usually works quite well and is *very* useful to muck around with when you need to print text or thin walls.

I think you'll be able to do what you ask in the first release of the new version of Cura code named "pink unicorn". I believe you can assign ANY existing parameters to a region of the part (such as first layer only).

@pm_dude - I think that's just normal stringing. Not the fur in the original post (post #1). Hmm. Interesting. lol. And that still didn't do it? That is the test I would recommend. I thought maybe the fur is what you get with a nozzle with melted pla on it. I think I'm pretty good at keeping the nozzle clean. Right when the print starts I grab the bit coming out. Never burnt my fingers. Just be fast.