gr5

Let me make something more clear - if the temp sensor is off by 100C then when the nozzle says it is at 50C it might actually be at 150C. And when you think it is at 210C it might actually be at 310C. That's why it is important to know if the sensor is working correctly. If the wires are extremely loose (barely making contact) it can easily have this much error.

I'm afraid you are going to damage your printer. I would not let it get hot enough to melt make "steam" until you get this fixed or figured out. There are parts in the print head that will be destroyed at 300C and the head can get up there no problem. So do the boil test. You can find water somewhere and transport it on your finger if you don't have paper towels or q tips or drinking cups. Another test. Go to CONFIGURATION ADVANCED MOVE MATERIAL. This will heat up to 220C. Spin the knob and watch the filament move up and down. move it up first to make sure it is moving. Then move it down slowly until it seems to stop. Then wait for the temp to hit 100C or so and move the material down some more. Pay attention to the temp and the tip of the nozzle and see where the filament starts leaking out. As soon as it does cut power (or just exit move material menu). It should start leaking around 170C. 150C at the lowest I think. I haven't done this test myself but if you do the test and post your result I will try it also.

This is the thread I think you mean: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3904-flexible-filaments-comparison/?p=50375 Lots of good information there. Blizz did you replace your feeder with the one IRobertI designed? I think that is an important step.

Nylon 140C (according to above article but note that bukobot uses 1.75mm filament). ABS 130C (I only did this once but it was 2 days ago and I think that was the temp that worked. It worked just as well as with PLA which I think works better a little cooler than 90C although I usually do 90C). Recently I started to always do atomic method or "cold pull" when I remove filament. Always. It makes changing colors much faster and keeps my nozzles clean. Also if switching from ABS back to PLA it's a must. On the UM2 I do the cold pull most of the way through the bowden then let it cool for 20 seconds before pulling through the feeder. And I pull it very fast through the feeder so the stepper has some momentum and is less likely to break off the tip which sucks when it happens but hasn't happened last 15 pulls or so.

The PWM signal on the fan causes the wiring to act as radio antennas and the electromagnetic radiation can interfere with the probe wires which also act as a receiving antenna. Again, Cura changed how the fan turns on in a recent version. Did you upgrade Cura just before problems started? There are other common temperature issues. The wiring at the *top* of the print head is supposed to go through a black piece of plastic (delrin) for strain relief. That 20mm length of wire at the top of the head has a very high failure rate after months of printing. You can test by pushing the head to the 4 corners and see if temperature suddenly changes. Also try pushing gently in many different directions on the wire on the head. The solution for that problem is to replace the wiring or use the "nozzle #2" wiring that is just sitting there doing nothing (replace at both ends of course).

Ignorieren Sie die Nivellierung. Stattdessen drehen Sie die vordere rechte Schraube 1/4 Drehung und die gegenüberliegende Ecke wird die entgegengesetzte Richtung zu gehen. Dann testen Sie wieder mit Ihrem Druck.

If you look at the Z screw carefully is it turning the wrong direction when the bed goes down? It looks like a loose wire going to the Z stepper. I would check the cabling underneath the UM2 and inspect every mm for cracks, damaged wiring. Also check the wiring at the 2 ends. You have to remove the larger cover. Just 2 screws. The UM2 is very easy to work on.

Yikes - no, G10 is "retract" and if you have retraction enabled, it occurs all over the place. G92 E0 was a much better choice. Also G10 only works on UM2 as it is "ultigcode". You had it fine before. It's just that it wouldn't have worked on really massive prints that need many meters of filament for a single part. Which seems unlikely if you are printing at least 2 objects and both are shorter than the gantry height.

DRINK CLIPS! Okay - I haven't posted anything in here in ages. I printed 20 drink clips about a week ago. Really spent a lot of time pushing the limits on text. I could get down to about .8mm wide lines in the text and still have it look very nice. But I had to change the "shell" to .3mm even though "nozzle" was .4mm. Then I further learned to increase flow by 133%. Arial works well for small text. I chose "Georgia" font for the large text. I tried a few different color combos but the red pla from UM and white from diamond age worked best so I used that the most. Text is .1mm thick. Bottom layer of drink clip is .3mm layer thick. Here you can see it part way through the print. I mostly did 3 at a time as changing filament takes time. Click on this last picture above to zoom in - I love that picture! Files and more pictures posted on youmagine here: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/drink-clip

Your code should work (mostly) with the current version of cura except Cura has a feature that the E setting never goes over a certain value (something like 9.99 meters?). When it gets close it does a M92 E0 again. This is because some versions of Marlin or maybe other firmware can't handle really large values for the E axis (extruder). However I doubt Jemma is printing more than 10 meters of filament per part so it should work fine for her.

It looks like maybe your fans aren't working. Did you make sure the side fans were working? Lower temperatures will help you so lower bed to 60C (50C is fine also) - don't start at 70C and then lower to 55C because the part won't stick as well due to the stress because glass and PLA shrink at different rates. did the 210C help? Was it any better? If better but not good enough, try 200C. I usually print fine at 220C. Also I think you will get better quality at .1 or .15mm layers. Or even .2mm layers maybe. .1 should be fine. That part looks a little difficult but I think you can do much much better than in the picture. Are you sure the fans were working? If all this helps quite a bit and you want it even better then print it even slower. But you should be able to get quite good quality at 35mm/sec.

This problem was discussed along with the solution on this forum. It involved I think removing the knob and/or putting it back on. I would start by removing the smaller cover underneath the printer. The problem was mechanical - that's all I remember. I think Daid posted the answer. You could use google on this forum maybe and search for "ultimaker2 daid knob".

Now I get it! Your build plate basically has walls and you need to hope over the wall before printing the next. What you should definitely do is hand edit a few of these files so you really understand exactly what edits to do. Then write a plugin to do it if you will be doing this a lot. Please publish the plugin for others to use on the plugin page. Plugins are pretty simple - you can take an existing one and rewrite it. They look for strings in the gcode (such as "skirt" or "layer:0" )and add a few lines before or after that. You can have it move up after one print, then over before the next print. You can steal the XY locations from the first point on the next object to print or you might not have to do that. If in the past it has simply worked fine by having the part "tall enough" then you could just add a Z move at the end of every sub-part. Such as G1 Z50 (move so bed is 50mm from print head). I'm not sure if that will always work as there is probably a diagonal move after that and going XY only over to the next part might be best.

You may have bad wiring on the temp probe possibly. First of all check what temp the machine is attempting to go to like illuminarti says. You can do some simple tests: Set nozzle to 95C and put water on it and make sure it doesn't boil. With machine at room temp, turn it on and check the nozzle temp. Make sure it is around 20C. You can play with temp by turning on machine and going to MAINTENANCE ADVANCED and then "temperature" (or is it "nozzle temperature"?). Please update your country location Rift. If you are in USA you can get much faster support in case you need a new temp probe. More likely the wire is loose underneath the machine (larger cover).

This (bad tops of prints) is a common, well understood problem. Most notably on the robots antennae. The min layer time works fine. The problem is that the top point is so damn small that slowing down the print doesn't help because the head is touching the top constantly and constantly keeping the PLA in liquid state. Like a soldering iron on solder. There are 2 common solutions. The first one is the simplest - you just check a single checkbox under cooling called "cool head lift". This makes a huge difference but has a drawback. While the head is cooling for most of those 8 seconds it leaks (even with retraction it still leaks slowly as the PLA higher up the tube heats up and expands and slowly forces out a string). Then when it goes to do the next layer the string gets attached to the side of your part. It is not too bad to cleanup and it is a huge improvement but you can do better. The second solution is to print something else just as tall. Or 2 things. So for example you could print a 10mm-on-a-side square (or round) tower on either side of the print. And then throw those away. Or you can just print 2 of these pyramid "benchmark" things. Or 3. Or 4. Two might not be enough. Also it helps (not as much as the above 2 things but every bit matters!) to print at a lower temperature. Say 180C when you get to the tip of the pyramid. You can use tweak-at-Z to do this. I think the best compromise is to just print 1 towers on either side. Make sure they are at least 1 layer taller than your print. Make sure to use "brim" as towers that skinny can get knocked over without brim.

This is a more complicated subject than you might realize. Are you aware that you can do "print all at once" or "one at a time"? It's under the "tools" menu. I'm not sure what a "well plate side" is and how one would be in the way of the print head. There are also some settings on the "machine settings" used just for this type of thing. One of them is "gantry height" which means if you print something really tall and then go to print something else you might bang into it somehow with part of the printer. Is that the issue? Unfortunately (maybe) this just puts tall prints back into "all at once" mode so maybe you don't want that. Or maybe that's okay. There are other settings "minx" that may help also. You can certainly hand edit the gcode. It's easier than you may think. The move command is G1 or G0 (there's no diff in Marlin) and then you can specify X,Y,Z,E axes and you can leave off an axis if you don't need it to move. After a little practice with this you could adapt the "tweak at Z" plugin to do your Z move automatically. Plugins are easier to mess around with than you might think - they are pretty simple. What kind of printer do you have? And please add your country to your Location in user preferences. Maybe a drawing or photo of the "well" would help.

It's common for the PWM signal from the fan to interfere with the temperature probe. One solution is to disable PWM by using the fan ONLY at 0% or 100%. This is probably the change you have seen recently - the more recent versions of Cura (last few months) turn on the fan more gradually. This is more in response to the UM2 design and not as critical for UM Original. Another (better) solution is to separate the fan wiring from the temperature probe. You only have to worry about the 50mm or so between the heater block and the board on top of the print head. Usually a distance between the cabling of 20mm is enough. Twisting the fan wires will help. Another solution (maybe) is to use a copy of Marlin that uses "slow fan PWM". You can do that by unchecking the 4th checkbox from the bottom here. This won't eliminate the problem but it will cause less frequent spikes in the voltage so that hopefully you get less frequent "bad temperature" readings. http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/

What issue? You didn't say anything about leveling earlier and none of the pictures show levelling issues which only affect the first layer. I'm confused. But anyway, yes there seems to be some leveling issues where the level isn't properly mainained. leveling bug on um2 patch is here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5935-z-axis-homing-inconsistent-on-um2-workaround-and-patch/?p=57095

This is usually backlash. Look at post #7 and zoom in on this picture to see if it's the same problem and the pictures have associated text that explains the fix: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/?p=14396 Also look at post #8 that shows why you get the gaps. Usually tightening the short belts fixes this (the belt to the motor) but sometimes you have to tighten the long belts. Backlash can be caused either by loose belts (doesn't pull the head all the way) or friction too high (when belt stops pulling head hasn't move the whole way as friction holding it back). If the problem is friction, then try loosening the long belts, loosening end caps, adding oil, push head around by hand feeling for friction.

continuing resuming rescuing failed print First you need to use pronterface to find the exact layer to continue on. Pronterface is here: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/ read all gr5 posts here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4213-ideas-for-recovering-failed-prints/?p=34788 post #9 here has specific code change example for um2 (ultigcode): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5269-um%C2%B2-printing-more-than-24-hours-non-stop/?p=46704

Or half the pitch if double helix, or 1/4 for UM2 quad-helix lead screw.

Open a support ticket at support.ultimaker.com. Even though it was your fault they will almost surely send you a free replacement because that's how they roll (actually I don't think they have a method of billing you - so they'll probably just give it to you).

If your print fails before it finishes you can always continue the print later (even another day). The critical thing is to keep the bed warm so the part doesn't pop off. Here are some instructions: continuing resuming rescuing failed print First you need to use pronterface to find the exact layer to continue on. Pronterface is here: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/ read all gr5 posts here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4213-ideas-for-recovering-failed-prints/?p=34788 post #9 here has specific code change example for um2 (ultigcode): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5269-um%C2%B2-printing-more-than-24-hours-non-stop/?p=46704

Then the motor must have missed steps. It takes a lot of friction for the motor to miss steps. I don't know where your friction is coming from but you need to experiment with power off until you find it.

The link that dimensioneer provides talks about this issue. Read post #41. It helps to give each layer lots of time to cool - so 100mm/sec is too fast if each layer is printed in only 15 seconds. Normally 5 seconds is plenty of time to cool but for these annoying overhang/curling issues I'm not sure what's long enough. Maybe 20 seconds is enough. And fan fan fan. Take out a window fan put it on the top. Put another window fan on the side, put a hand fan inside the machine. I don't know what to do but definitely more fan helps! You want the plastic to cool INSTANTLY before the head moves a whole 2mm away.