gr5

Didn't know about that.

Oh - if you then click "reconnect" does that work? That happens to me A LOT! Maybe 60% of the time. I don't use USB printing much because of that. Also I found I could reduce those issues by setting print temperature to 0 and set the temperature manually. Then once it got close enough to the correct temperature I would start printing through USB. Another solution for many people was to buy a powered USB hub or to switch to a different computer. But more importantly: It is better not to print through USB. Try printing through SD card instead.

Can't you rotate it so the bottom is flat on the bed?

Maybe if you rotated the head a bit so that those "horns" are steeper? Or add your own custom support using some cad software. Or try cua 13.04 which has a totally different support algorithm and slicer: http://software.ultimaker.com/old/ (it's okay to have 2 versions of cura installed at the same timeO) Or try kisslicer (it's free and has a beautiful gui just like cura).

Not normal. If it isn't leaking onto the print you can ignore it. If you print hot (240C to 250C) it will boil and bubble and turn brown and gunky and seal up the leak but this is dangerous as the same thing can happen inside the hot end and gunk that up also. If you are lucky it will eventually gum itself up. If it doesn't fix itself or if it starts dripping on your prints, you can heat the head to 180C (that's plenty hot!) disassemble and reassemble. It might be as easy as tightening the nozzle only but possibly you have to do more than that. It's also okay to use teflon tape for those threads - you can get some for under $1 or 1 euro at any plumbing section of a hardware store. teflon melts around 327C so it is fine in a print head. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thread_seal_tape

In the lower right edge of that fan duct I see some underextruded lines - that's the worst thing - it looks so bad it might separate. That may be due to tangling filament. Or perhaps your extruder spring needs tightening a little - it should be compressed to about 11.5mm.

Did you have retraction enabled? This helps eliminate stringing: 1) Make sure retraction is checked on basic/quality 2) In expert settings set minimum travel to 0mm or at least something small like 1mm. 3) In expert settings set "minimal extrusion..." to 0mm. I hate this setting right now.

I think it would be good if we could locate the problem so Daid can fix any bugs in cura but he isn't going to do that if he can't duplicate it and I certainly can't duplicate it - I tried rotating the minimum: 15 degrees and it was fine. I suppose there is a way to rotate less than that (hold shift key or something?). If I knew exactly how much to rotate to duplicate this then we could have Daid look at it. Or maybe I will be able to see the problem better.

Something wrong with the left limit switch. If the noise is the loud banging when the motor is trying to move farther left than it can then it should be fine. The stepper motor doesn't care and the belts and such can handle the stress. But it *does* sound horrible. Turn off power and push the head to the left until you hear the limit switch click. If it doesn't click then something is not properly hitting the limit switch. Look at it carefully - perhaps you have to move the switch away from the corner by a mm or so and re-tighten the screws.

Before printing a multi-hour print you should spend an hour doing some experiments - I have to run but... You should experiment with amount of retraction amount and also with lower temperatures. Here is a sample experiment I did with retraction once: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/ The lower the temp, the better stringing will be but you might have to also slow down your print speed if you go too cold so it's best to find the warmest possible temp that has zero stringing. Also you need to dial in retraction amount exactly. 4.5 is perfect for UM1, 5.5 is perfect for UM2. Your printer will vary. If you retract too much air gets in the hot end and causes problems. The correct amount should be visible by looking in the bowden carefully.

There are 6 (SIX!) per axis. I'm sure you tightened them plenty but I think you missed one or two pulleys. It looks like only one axis is slipping. The most likely two are the ones on the short belt - including the motor. To get to that one is difficult - I think you have to take the motor out maybe - certainly you might have to remove the white metal corner cover that hides the stepper motors. Try it again. There are 5 other things that can cause this but the other things don't do a sudden slip like this - this is 99% surely a slipping pulley still. If you don't believe me try the permanent marker test I suggested.

Maybe this is okay - try printing something from the SD card. Also maybe you would be better off if you turn on the power and *then* connect the USB cable.

You want to remove the large of the 2 covers down there and there are only 2 screws holding it on. Everything is labelled. If you are lucky the cable in question is half disconnected already and obvious. More likely the problem is in the head - you could slide up that black weave/web netting stuff and there are connectors in there. Maybe the temperature one is loose.

Looks exactly like what I would expect with shrinking effects. When you have a long part it shrinks more at the ends than two short parts. You can compensate for this all in the model by measuring the final sizes accurately and increasing or decreasing only those sides that need it.

You must have changed the Cura settings. Maybe layer height is thinner? Maybe you changed the print speed? There are about 10 settings that can affect how long it takes to print a part. Because of this I always take good notes and I always save my settings to a "profile" file so I can look back several days later to see what I did.

If the tube *is* scraped, another alternative might be to cut off 10mm off the end of the bowden so that the part that holds the bowden is now touching the bowden higher up where it hasn't been scraped yet.

I'm guessing Sander wants to see a picture because there might be a few other possibilities so please do that also.

Wait - what? Coffin's cube? Is that "stewart coffin"? I know him. My mom is dating him. He gives me puzzles all the time. Nice guy. He has something like 300 puzzles invented. Each of which probably took him a month to dream up and create the tooling to make them in wood. He's working on a new book showing/discussing all his puzzles. And he's still making new puzzles but he's mostly retired.

Ultimaker is open this week except for december 25,26 so very likely they shipped some UM2s today and will ship more tomorrow and Friday. If you have the "R" number for your order (which you probably got when you paid 2 months ago), you can check DHL to see if they already have your package. There are instructions somewhere in the posts above. I made one of those posts so you could restrict your seach to only my posts if you want and should be able to find it. The "R" number is a long number that starts with R. I forget how many digits. Something like R28917593.

The way the thermocouple works - it's a very sensitive thing in that the arduino doesn't have the capability to measure it so there is a tiny circuit board on the head of the UM that measures the temperature and converts it to a voltage between 0 and 5V where 0V=0C and 5V=500C. So measure that voltage on the print head. The most likely thing that is broken is that board or the thermocouple itself (although the thermocouple is pretty damn simple!) or the wiring between the two. You can test this by measuring the voltage coming off the board. At room (20C) it should be around 200mv. If it is correctly at 200mv (and not 1050mv) then the problem is not there and is in the wiring or in the UM PCB. But I strongly suspect the problem is in the head area and will be reading around 1000mv (1volt) instead of around 200mv at room temp.

You can (and should) install cura without connecting the arduino to the UM. 1) Did you do that step? 2) After that Cura should be able to connect with the print window in Cura. Does that work? It's good to do small steps to figure out exactly what the problem is. 3) The next step for me would be to connect the arduino to the UM PCB and power it up. Double check that the Ulticontroller display cables are connected correctly. 4) If now cura *can't* connect, yet before it *could* then check the power voltages. Do not leave the Ultimaker PCB powered up for more than 30 seconds as the voltage regulator gets very very hot without a fan. 5) If things aren't working at this point - check the power voltages at the voltage regulator. You should have 19V coming in and 12V going out. It's the 3 pin part that sticks up out of the PCB into the air flow. The 3rd pin on that part is 0V. This part may need replacing.

It probably would cost you less than 1 penny per day to keep the bed and nozzle at 10C. What do you think of never turning it off when not in use? Since you are in "reprap" mode anyway - it's easy to mess with the start and end gcodes. You could probalby set the end gcode to leave the bed and nozzle at 10C. At least when the weather is forecast to be below 5C. As far as letting parts cool - the glass temp of PLA is around 55C. If the bed temp is below 50C it should be safe to pry the part off with a putty knife. But above 60C it's not worth the risk. Alternatively, I have placed the glass under hot water (I made sure the water was at max temp before letting it touch the 60C glass). This dissolves the gluestick glue and makes it easier to pop the part off once you get a square millimeter of corner up and let water in. Also alternatively I have removed the glass with gloves and waved it around in the air up and down to speed up cooling yet still cool evenly (glass tends to shatter if you cool it unevenly - UM doesn't use pyrex).

Actually as cura works now, if you go for a coffee break and come back, once all slices are finally loaded, you can very quickly slide up and down the slider on the right edge. So Cura basically has this feature already but better: it has built in pause, fast forward, rewind, rotate, zoom in while paused, etc.

Oh. I missed that part. Strange. I tried rotating on 2 different axes and saw no problems. If you can recreate it, try checking some of the "fix horrible" settings. There may be a tiny opening somewhere in the STL. I looked at it and it looks good ("manifold") but there could be a tiny hole somewhere.

Works for me in cura 13.11. Same settings (60% fill, .15 layers). Sounds like a bug. Check out my picture. Consider downloading cura 13.11. You can have many cura's all installed (and even all running) at the same time. Download older cura's here: http://software.ultimaker.com/old/