gr5

Cura does support mostly automatically. It's more that you tell cura where you *don't* want support. Cura is somewhat smart about positioning the support but sometimes makes dumb decisions. The first level of control is that you can select "support everywhere" or "no support" or "support touching buildplate". With the last option it won't put support in holes half way up your model but will suport things that have only air under them. Also you can set the support angle. overhangs at 45 degrees are trivial to print. As the support angle gets steeper, it is more likely you need support. I like to skip support up to around 80 degrees (where 90 degrees is a horizontal surface). So that's a setting in cura you can mess with and see what happens in PREVIEW mode. There are fancier features like "support blocker" where you can click on areas of the model where you don't want support. As was mentioned above, if you do a single nozzle print, you have to remove the support later and it scars the surface. It's this ugliness that people tend to hate about support. With dissolvable support you can have perfect looking overhangs. 95% of my prints don't need support. I design my own parts so I can usually think of a way to avoid support. Also you don't need support for "bridging". Think of printing the wall of a house with a doorway. The top of that doorway doesn't need support (cura thinks it does, but it doesn't). Because it can print the layer at the top of the door opening by stringing filament straight over the opening. This doesn't work if the door isn't square and has a crooked top. I'm sure you don't understand my previous sentence - you need to just start printing things and learn and then this makes more sense. Here's a guide that is more visual, less words, and will help you understand and it's extremely easy and quick reading (spend like 10 minutes!) - skip down to the part that says "create a span" and now my above paragraph makes more sense: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/38-designing-for-3d-printing These other 2 guides are also worth reading some day http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/30-getting-better-prints

One more issue - PLA+ is only resistant to high temps if you bake the part. It will DEFINITELY warp (and shrink) during that step.

I hoped someone else would answer this. My answer: "I doubt it warps after printing". Most people, when talking about warping releated to 3d printing are talking about how when the part cools it can warp off the print bed and the bottom of the print can curl up. Pretty much all filaments absorb water from the air and this is a serious consideration for PVA, and Nylons but I've never head to worry about it for PLA. I don't know much about PLA+ but in my experience it is so very close to PLA that it's not much different but I don't know. I've left a PLA parts outdoors in the rain (and sun) for about 8 years now and it still looks and feels like new. My understanding with PLA (or is it PETG - Damn I forget) is that it is not as strong if it absorbs water. But the parts I print (which are functional and mechanical) have so little stress that I've never noticed any issues (my parts are probably all 10X stronger than they need to be - plastic is strong! lol). The only "warping" issue I've experience with PLA is that if you put it under enough stress it will slowly move - over the course of months and years. For example if you made a small hook and hung something heavy on that hook, the hook will unbend over the course of months until the object falls off the hook. But it has to be significant stress.

For your first few 100 prints I recommend you try to stick with PLA only as that is the easiest material to print with and you will gain an understanding of what is dependable and what isn't. PVA is tricky as you need to keep it incredibly dry. Some dessicant is not good enough.

There are a lot of model repair services that should be able to do this. Try googling "remove internal holes" and add to that "meshmixer" or "meshlab" or "cad". I did just that and this is one of many suggestions - it looks like it might do what you want: http://meshlabstuff.blogspot.com/2009/04/how-to-remove-internal-faces-with.html (both meshmixer and meshlab are free and easy to use - if meshlab can do it then I'd use that as it tends to be a more reliable product in my opinion)

I love my um2go printers. I have 3 of them (modified with heated bed, better feeder, and olsson block) and they do most of the work but it's very handy to have the S5 for when I need dissolvable support or even when I'm just printing some nylon parts.

Well this ply plugin likely converts the .ply file to stl so in theory you could grab that code out of the plugin and run that before launching cura. Seems like a lot of work though!

So you can run the curaEngine.exe directly. It's stored in the same folder tree as cura itself. Cura is just the gui interface to the actual slicer which is curaEngine. This is not for the faint of heart. It could easily take many hours to set this up but if you are slicing hundreds of STLs maybe it's worth it for you. Here is some discussion explaining how to do it but I think it's a bit more complicated than they say here. There are details of using curaengine all around this forum in a few places so you can google search "site:ultimaker.com" as well although I found a nice answer on reddit of all places: https://www.reddit.com/r/Cura/comments/kxz6li/does_cura_have_any_sort_of_cli/

Are you using the cura engine by itself? Or launching the full GUI of Cura? Wait never mind. if you were using the cura engine it would definitely save the gcode file. So how are you telling cura to load a file and also slice the file but can't send the save command to that window automatically?

You might just want to grab the cura engine from the appImage files for the linux version of cura and see if it launches as is. I don't know the answer to your question but someone who probably knows the answer: @nallath @ahoeben

I don't understand. Do you want it to save after every slice? I usually slice 3 or 4 times before I have all the settings to my liking.

Questa sezione del forum è solo per l'italiano. Ultimaker mantiene Cura. Aggiornano solo le stampanti (profili macchina) e i profili di stampa per le stampanti Ultimaker. I profili di stampanti di terze parti possono essere aggiornati da chiunque sia disposto a farlo e quindi possono inviarli di nuovo al team di Cura su github. Sarebbe fantastico se ti offrissi volontario per questo lavoro. La maggior parte dei produttori di stampanti dovrebbe avere qualcuno che lo faccia, ma sfortunatamente la maggior parte no.

It used to lower the bed more than it does now. It waits for the cores to cool to a specific temperature and then it retracts the filament in both heads. This allows you to change filaments or cores at some future time without having to heat up the core. By cooling a bit you get a better tip to the filament when it retracts. You don't want a very thin long string as this can cause problems later. But I agree, it's frustrating. It used do this with the bed all the way down so I could grab my print as soon as it finished (if I wanted). Know that for PLA the bed is above the softening temp so it's probably best to let the bed cool to 50C before removing your part. Otherwise you may deform the part a bit.

Perfect!

I think you want a "modifier mesh". Here is an arricle: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360013370140-How-to-adjust-print-settings-of-a-part-of-my-model-in-Ultimaker-Cura Here is a video. In the video thumbnail notice how the infill of hammer is changed (to more solid).

Pour les autres personnes qui ont la même imprimante et qui arrivent ici dans ce sujet : Je pense donc qu'une solution a été trouvée mais il faut passer sur cet autre sujet de cet autre site pour voir la discussion. https://www.lesimprimantes3d.fr/forum/topic/48926-mon-alfawise-u20-nimprime-plus-au-centre-du-plateau/?sortby=date#comments

I think UM kind of don't support UM2 so much anymore. They seem to only have recommendations for their own materials like CPE and let the manufacturer of each material post their own. I googled this and they have some recommendations for CPE on um2 but ngen is slightly different I suspect. And colorfab is going to have a pretty big range of temps. I use ngen because it's slightly higher temperature and I ship parts that can end up in postal trucks above 130F. Also it prints and acts a lot like PLA so it's pretty easy to print. I did break an ngen print recently (a knob) but it was pretty badly underextruded. Part of the assembly process involves using a wrench to tighten a nut against the printed knob and I shattered the knob as there was basically no infill. Once the knob is in use the torque applied is about 100X less so I'm not too worried about the strength.

J'attends avec impatience de voir si c'est le problème. Si c'est le problème, alors - quelle merde de firmware Marlin c'est.

Pourquoi est-il écrit "CREALITY" sur votre imprimante ? Je pensais que tu avais un autre modèle ! Creality a un nombre ÉNORME de personnes qui peuvent vous aider. Des milliers d'experts.

cette commande suivante devrait déplacer la buse à 0,0,0 (flèche rouge) G28 ;home all axisG92 E0 ;zero the extruded length déplace la buse à 1 mm au-dessus du litG1 Z1 F1000 ;move up slightly imprime sur la buse y60 touchant le lit (flèche bleue)G1 Y60.0 Z0 E9.0 F1000.0;intro line imprime sur la buse y100 (flèche verte)G1 Y100.0 E21.5 F1000.0;continue lineG92 E0;zero the extruded length again; -- end of START GCODE --G92 E0G92 E0G1 F2700 E-5;LAYER_COUNT:109;LAYER:0M107 passe à la buse x98 y121 (flèche jaune)G0 F3600 X98.15 Y121.249 Z0.2G0 X95.975 Y126.617;TYPE:SKIRTG1 F2700 E0G1 F1200 X96.088 Y124.838 E0.05929G1 X96.16 Y124 .338 E0.07609G1 X96.413 Y123.572 E0.10292G1 X96.839 Y122.796 E0.13236G1 X97.438 Y121.963 E0.16649G1 X97.766 Y121.578 E0.18331 Je mesurerais la distance entre les flèches pour voir dans quelle mesure elles correspondent aux mouvements commandés. Il semble que la distance entre les flèches rouge et bleue soit inférieure à 60 mm, mais le reste semble correct. Peut-être devriez-vous publier les 200 premiers gcodes du trancheur de prusa pour voir ce qui est différent.

Here's how to setup more materials for UM2 series printers: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360013127919-Custom-material-profiles-for-Ultimaker-2-and-Ultimaker-2- I did that for all my UM2go printers. I have been printing ngen this week which is pretty much the same thing as CPE and PETG.

So the UM2 series printers (but not the UM2+C) are unique in that you set the material on the printer, not in Cura. The only differences you need to adjust among PLA, ABS, CPE, PETG is: fan speed, bed temperature, nozzle temperature TPU also needs a flow adjustment which is the last thing you can adjust per material on the UM2/UM2+ series printers. Anyway, that's it: fan, bed temp, nozzle temp. So the manufacturer will tell you what to set for bed and nozzle temps and I recommend 50% for the fan. But this has nothing to do with Cura! You can't set any of those settings in cura for the UM2 series printers (including "+" printers). The UM2+C is the only exception - you set those in cura for the UM2+C so it needs profiles for different materials. Maybe you want to know how to setup the UM2+ for CPE?

You took too long. I'm closing this topic. Open a new topic if you want help.

Oui!

J'ai enregistré uniquement les commandes de vitesse "F". et mouvements "Y" pour voir à quelle vitesse le Y se déplaçait. F (feedrate) est en mm/minute donc pour obtenir mm/seconde vous devez diviser par 60. Résumant le code ci-dessus : Déplacer Y à 60 mm à 17 mm/s Déplacez Y à 100 mm (même vitesse) déplacer Y à 121 mm à 60 mm/sec déplacer Y à 126 mm à 60 mm/sec déplacer Y à 124 mm à 20 mm/sec Ensuite, il imprime principalement à 20 mm/sec Je pense que le problème réside dans les mouvements à 60 mm qui sont plus longs que, disons, 2 mm de distance. Je pense que cela pourrait être trop rapide pour l'imprimante. Dans cura, essayez de réduire la vitesse de déplacement à peut-être 30 mm/sec ? Cela expliquerait pourquoi l'impression est positionnée à environ 20 mm (ou 26 mm) en Y. Une seule explication possible.