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There is an alternate version of Cura that does better on bridging. I don't know what it will do for this though - probably no improvement. Please post your STL file and I'll see if the bridging is any better. Oh! Alternatively you can disable bridging I think. In that case it will do all diagonal bridging which isn't ideal but is an improvement. I think. I'm not sure how to disable bridging. Post your STL and I'll experiment.

This is a very valid worry. The UM2+ is much more hackable. Not because the UM2+C backend is worse but because no one is hacking them at this time. But for the UM2+ there is a whole alternate firmware (tinker marlin) and lots of people who can help you make changes to the code and published explanations of how to build Marlin for UM2 printers and so on. On another note, there is a product called the i2k from 3dsolex.com which is supposed to keep the teflon about 100C cooler than normal. It's meant for the UM2/UM2+ series printers but I suspect will work for the UM2+C.

Is this before the print finishes or is the print basically done at this point? I actually have several ideas but you still haven't answered this question.

The oil will make a HUGE difference. 🙂

Ninjaflex is about 30D. 40D is still difficult but should be significantly easier.

The name of the tube is the "bowden tube". Or just "the bowden". OH!! Fiberflex 40D!!! Oh I saw that but wasn't familiar. That is similar to "Ninjaflex". I think that is also 40D. maybe? Okay so Ultimaker has is a bowden printer and has more trouble with filaments that are so flexible. But you can do it. So yes absolutely put oil on the filament (to get into the bowden). Here are some steps you need to do: 1) Print maybe 10C hotter than they recommend or if they have a range print at the top end of the range. Higher temps means less viscosity. 2) Print extra slow. I like 10mm/sec for Ninjaflex filament. 3) oil the filament. This part is weird. People think it will mess up the finished part but it doesn't. WD-40 might work but it's mostly a cleaner - not a lubricant. Ideally use some light oil: 3-in-1 oil or sewing machine oil. Probably even baby oil would work fine. You want a peteroleum based, light weight oil. Then you put one drop on the filament before you insert it into the printer. Then what I do is hang the back of the printer over the edge of a table and unspool until the filament almost touches the floor (don't get any dust on the filament). Then I add one drop up near the feeder and the oil runs down to the "U" in the filament. Then every hour or two (every meter of filament printed) I unspool so it almost touches the floor again and add another drop. This oil makes a huge difference. 4) Set the feeder tension to the minimum (at the top). When the feeder squeezes the filament it is feeding less than the feeder thinks it is feeding. So because of this, 5) Also increase the flow. On the UM2+ you can change the flow rate live from the TUNE menu. Go in there and try 105% "flow". it's called flow. If you overextrude too much it will just bunch up inside the feeder and make a mess. I'm not sure what ideal flow rate is. Maybe 110%? Maybe 105%?

You have pretty bad underextrusion. I'd say you are underextruding by about 20 to 30%. So if you are going to increase extrusion try 20% but I think if it's underextruding that badly then going to 120% will just cause the extruder to fail even worse. In my experience 10% is about the max you can compensate for. I'm wondering if someone took apart the feeder and put the tension screw back in wrong. There is a tension sensor on the side of the feeder. Make sure it's half way in the window. Or maybe someone printed some carbon fiber and ground down the feeder. But the most common cause of underextrusion BY FAR is worn teflon part. There is a teflon part in the print head. It is considered a "consumable" by ultimaker. So they are nice and sell it quite cheap (around $18?). You can get them from any reseller in your country. If they are all out, 3dsolex sells a 3rd party version. I'd look in the maintenance menu and see how many hours of printing the printer has done. You have to replace this part every 500 hours or so. The teflon gets soft at the hot end over many weeks and the pressure makes the hole in the center squeeze the filament hard enough that it can add several pounds of resistance. If this isn't the issue I have a list of about 30 things to check. Most of them only take a few seconds to eliminate.

Your model isn't water tight. It isn't "manifold". It is defective. I can see clearly in the inset below that there is something missing - a wall is missing. So your walls are actually infinitely thin so cura prints them infinitely thin (meaning it exudes zero filament). The real question is why did it print anything at all. Is this your model? Can you repair it? There is a cura mesh plugin that might fix this but I'd fix it in CAD or try some of the online STL repair websites. Or use meshmixer perhaps - I think it might have a repair function. here's an online repair service. I can give you more options if you want: https://3d-print.jomatik.de/en/index.php

Rats. You are probably asleep and won't answer my questions until tomorrow and by the time I reply it will probably be Sunday night for you. Anyway, please answer the above questions. I looked at the gcodes and they are fine. None of the movements you describe. If the answers for the questions above are "yes, yes, before, yes" then I'd say the problem is in the firmware of the S5. So if the answers are "yes, yes, before, yes" then please check what firmware you have - you can do that I think from the maintenance menu. Also I'd update to the latest version if there is a newer version available.

To clarify: It did your complete print just fine. Immediately after it finishes the print, it does some bad things. Right so far? Does it ask you if you removed the print? Does it do this before or after asking you? I'm guessing it never got to that step?

To clarify: It did your complete print just fine. Immediately after it finishes the print, it does some bad things. Right so far? Does it ask you if you removed the print? Does it do this before or after asking you? I'm guessing it never got to that step? Can you send the project file and also the ufp file? For the project file, in cura, do "file "save project" and post that file. The ufp file is the result if you slice in cura and then save that file using the same button but save to hard drive and post that here please.

All the values < 10mm look great. All the values > 10mm are a serious problem. Both your description and the log file are saying the same thing: Sometimes it thinks it hit the glass when it clearly did not. It never even got within 5mm of the glass. So you can ignore: 1) spring isssues 2) filament on tip issues 3) bad cores 4) bad seating in print head And concentrate on: 1) Bad hardware 2) Electric radio noise 3) Loose wire - I didn't mention this earlier but open the print head and there are 2 wires going to that base plate in the print head. Tug very gently to make sure there isn't a wire that is barely connected. I know a few resellers and most printers do active leveling just fine and some that fail are easily fixed but some can be quite the headache to fix (replace basically everything twice until it works).

1) Okay but what about this above. 2) And since you have the log file, do a grep for "peak" and "Preliminary" as shown here: geo@geo-Wild-Dog-Pro:~/ultimaker/logs oct28 2020$ grep peak ultimakersystem-ccbdd3005b4c.5.7.2.boot0.log Oct 29 00:13:45 ultimakersystem-ccbdd3005b4c python3[1166]: 2020-10-29 00:13:45,662 INFO probingController Found peak @ 8.623 Oct 29 00:13:59 ultimakersystem-ccbdd3005b4c python3[1166]: 2020-10-29 00:13:59,315 INFO probingController Found peak @ 7.173 geo@geo-Wild-Dog-Pro:~/ultimaker/logs oct28 2020$ grep Preliminary ultimakersystem-ccbdd3005b4c.5.7.2.boot0.log Oct 29 00:13:59 ultimakersystem-ccbdd3005b4c python3[1166]: 2020-10-29 00:13:59,507 INFO probeResultValidationStep Preliminary z offset for second nozzle: 1.45 Actually first search for "height difference between nozzles is too large" as that is the message that occurs right when the error happens. Write down the date and time and *then* search for "peak" and "Preliminary" and look to see if even the passing tests *almost* fail.

THIS REPLY ASSUMES YOU ARE IN USA You can buy just those parts: https://fbrc8.com/collections/ultimaker-3-spare-parts/products/lifting-switch-pack-um3-um3x It says they are sold out but possibly not. I'd email sales@fbrc8.com and ask. fbrc8 built your UM3. They assemble all the UM2/UM3/S3/S5 (and I assume UM2+c) printers sold in USA. So they have parts. LOTS of parts. If they truly don't have it you can contact many of the UM resellers in USA. Just google Ultimaker 2 printer or something similar and the longer established companies should hopefully pop up and email each of them. Just the top 5 or 10 resellers. If I am mistaken and you don't need the "switch pack", still contact fbrc8. Sometimes they will sell only the part that broke. Also if you get *only* plastic parts from fbrc8, the prices are often amazingly low. These are all made in quantities of something like 10,000 at a time in Asia and are super cheap in reality. So even if you get the whole head (plastic only) I think it's super reasonable.

Almost certainly, yes. But don't throw it away. Remove the spool from the MS and loosen it or even unwind it all. Put the filament on the S5 print bed (or the entire spool as is). Put a towel (or open bottom box or some kind of insulation on top so you get 60C at the top of the spool as well) on top. Maybe a few towels. Or sheets. Or some kind of insulation. Set the bed temp on the S5 to 60C and leave for many hours. If you completely unwound the filament, then just a few hours - 1 to 4 hours should be enough to dry it. If it's tightly spooled then you may need 24-48 hours. Or if you just have a particular print coming up: in cura, look below the slice button where it shows meters of PVA needed. Unspool that amount (but don't cut it). Sit the spool on top of the unspooled filament. And just 1 to 4 hours is plenty to dry it out. I don't have a MS but I put about 1 cup (250ml) of recharged desiccant in the same sealed bag as my filament and I can only get the humidity down to 30%. That's a LOT of desiccant! That's not enough to dry the filament. You want it much dryer. For maintaining PVA filament, 30% is helpful so the pva (or nylon filament) absorbs moisture slower but definitely not good enough for drying and at least for me, not even good enough to maintain it being dry. Maybe I'm not recharging my desiccant enough (it changes back to the original color but maybe I need to do more drying, not sure).

I think it's a bug but an easy workaround (hopefully) is to make the grove one or two layers lower on the short sides.

There are so many things that can give you the same error message. First and foremost, watch the leveling when it does the first two levelings - left and right core at the same spot. It's supposed to slowly move the bed until it touches the nozzle. One failure mode is that it stops before the bed touches the nozzle. Another is that it touches the nozzle and keeps going much too long afterwards. Another failure mode is that the lift switch isn't raising and lowering the right core. You might have to repair the print head or re run the lift switch calibration procedure (which takes less than a minute). There may be electronic noise (obviously - discussed above). There may be spring issues with the bed or a print core (basically you want the bed springs weaker than the nozzle springs but the bed springs can be somewhat stiffer and it still works fine because the entire cantilevering bends a bit also). And of course there can be something on the nozzle tip (usually not a problem as the leveling is done while the nozzle is hot). Oh - and you can have two nozzles that are not the same "height" (where height is from the nozzle tip to the shiny steel angled part that sits in the metal "fork" of the print head). Tolerance here is 0.7mm. And you can have nozzles that are not seating properly into said fork.

I've never saved to SD card because I want a permanent copy of every gcode file and every project so I always save to disk. I also do "file" "save project as" right after or before as I (very often) go back to an old project and load the newer version of the model so I start with the exact same slicing parameters as last time I printed this model (but different version or different printer or different model but similar). However the normal process is you slice and then you look it over in preview by scrolling up and down through the layers as there is almost always a good reason not to print without changing something in the settings or in the model. After slicing the button changes to be able to save/print the gcode. The options include things like (but mostly I'm just guessing at some of these optoins): save to disk <-- I always choose this. Always. Even though I have a few other options. save to removable drive A save to SD card print over network print through digital factory print directly through USB You can switch among the available options on the right edge of the print/save button. There may also be an eject SD card option but I've never noticed it. Anyway the point is this: Hitting "slice" does not save anything. If Cura doesn't offer to eject the SD card then I'm sure it does not do this - you have to do this from your particular operating system - which is different depending if you use windows, linux, IOS.

I have don't know why it's just in one spot. If you like puzzles you could look at the layer view and run through the order of where it starts printing first on a layer or after a long "travel" move and there's a good chance the bad areas are underextrusion just after a long travel move or are the start of the layer (in which case a prime tower would help - check the "prime tower" box). But pretty much any PVA issue is improved by drying the PVA. So consider doing that: 1) In cura, after slicing, look in the lower right and note how many meters of PVA will be used. 2) Unspool that many meters of PVA and put the pva directly on the heated bed with the spool on top (no need to cut the filament). 3) Set the bed temp to 60C. Cover with a towel. Let sit for a few hours. 3 hours is usually plenty. I'm not sure how long it needs. 4) Print with the dried PVA immediately. As soon as the print is done put the pva in a ziplock bag. no amount of desiccant seems to be enough to keep it dry so do this procedure before every print.

Anything that is yellow is skin. yes, it's top/bottom however people print more complicated objects than cubes. For example on the top of a pyramid will have at least some skin on every layer although all of the skin may be covered with wall. Just - look at a print in layer view, set "color scheme" to "line type" and anything that is yellow is skin.

All of those ideas look great except for one: >reduced the retraction speed to 20mm/s . I would expect that to make quality worse, not better. Unless there is something wrong with the feeder. But I suspect the change in quality is too small to matter

"Pause at height" - should not continue after 10 seconds. It should stop and sit there and the printer should ask for input from the user. At that point most users can cancel the printer. However every printer is different. Also your hack of adding the "end gcode" should work but you should delete everything from there to the end of the gcode file.

Cura has cross sectional views but *only* horizontal ones. So you can use the vertical slider on the right side of PREVIEW and (for example - if you are inserting a nut) slide it up until you find the area for the nut and then where the model starts covering the nut. Also the vertical slider has a second control at the bottom so you can remove the bottom of the part as well and look at your part in cross section from below. However, I agree a vertical cross section view would be really really nice!

The way it is supposed to work: If you slide the lifting switch on the print head then the right core goes up and is about 1.5mm higher than the left core. Then you slide the lifting switch back again and now the right core should be about 1.5mm lower than the left core. Total travel of the right core should be pretty close to 3mm and the left core should be half way between the up and down position of the right core. When you do active leveling it tests where each core touches the glass bed. The right core should be 1.5mm lower and the tolerance is .7mm. So if the right core is 0.69mm lower then it fails but if it's .7 through 2.2mm lower then the test passes.

Okay it's sounding like the problem is with the left core then? That it is too high. And the right core goes up and down just fine. Or maybe the right core barely goes up at all and is always basically in the down position? Travel distance for the right core should be 3mm vertically. You really need to show us a 5 second video of the problem please. Pictures or a few seconds of video will tell us more than you writing out an hours worth of explanation. There is this metal plate in the base of the print head. This metal plate sets the printing position of the 2 cores. The plate is shaped like a pitch fork. The cores have a rounded shiny part that rests in the plate. The cores are pushed down into the plate with a spring in each core. The only spring in a print core is the spring I mean.