gr5

@darkdvd - Je pense que le problème est dans l'axe Y. Pas Z. Ce lit qui coulisse d'avant en arrière. Ou peut-être devrais-je simplement quitter cette zone française car je ne suis pas bon en français (en utilisant Google Translate). Aucune de ces valeurs n'est la valeur dont je parlais. Ce serait probablement dans le fichier Configuration.h du firmware. La plupart de ces entreprises chinoises ne publient pas le firmware. Ce qui est illégal (car c'est Marlin open source). Donc la position 0,0 est quelque part dans ce cercle. Cura affiche un marqueur 0,0,0 dans le coin avant gauche. C'est comme ça pour toutes les imprimantes sauf les imprimantes delta qui ont 0,0 au centre. Alors, pouvez-vous expliquer une fois de plus : l'interrupteur de fin de course Y se déclenche-t-il lorsque la buse est proche du bord avant encerclé ? Vous voyez le marqueur rouge/vert/bleu encerclé ? C'est 0,0,0 :

Actually maybe post the (bad) gcode file as well. I'm having trouble running cura 5.X and I want to look at your gcode to make sure it is triple extruding and I can use one of many gcode veiwer programs to verify that.

Please post your project. In cura do "file" "save project..." and then post that file. Mention if you saved the project from within cura 5.1.0 or not. Maybe also save your 4.13.1 project that works separately. Are you doing triple thick infill? Nevermind. you said you are. So are you saying that in cura 4.13.1 it does the triple thickness infill just fine but in Cura 5.1.0 it does not print enough and the infill looks underextruded? Infill percentage? 100% infill should make it solid infill. No gaps. Infill percentage just helps cura decide how far apart the lines are. I don't think it does anything different at 150% versus 100% but I never thought to try that. Instead you might want to mess with "flow" which tells the extruder to adjust how much material to extrude. So 150% infill flow (is there such a setting? I didn't check) would be the thing to try. Maybe you should show a photo of your print as well?

Pour répondre à votre question sur les imprimantes 20 cm contre 30 cm, j'étais très approximatif car je pensais que vous imprimiez dans le coin ou sur le bord du lit d'impression. Oui, on dirait qu'il est centré autour de 15 cm, soit la moitié de 30 cm, ce qui est bien. C'est le moment où il commence à imprimer la jupe. Le bord le plus proche de l'avant de l'imprimante. Lorsque X et Y sont nuls, il doit s'imprimer dans le coin avant gauche. Si vous ne regardez que les valeurs Y (ce dont vous vous plaignez), vous pouvez voir que l'impression commence à environ 124 puis 123 mm. Alors première question pour toi : Commence-t-il à imprimer à environ 123 mm de l'avant ? Nous devons définir le front. Y a-t-il un interrupteur de fin de course qui se déclenche pour l'axe Y lorsque la buse est proche du bord avant ? Ou seulement le bord arrière ? S'il se déclenche sur le bord avant, cela devrait être la position 0. S'il se déclenche uniquement sur le bord arrière, il existe une valeur logicielle dans le micrologiciel de votre imprimante qui définit la longueur de l'imprimante. Je sais que vous avez dit que c'était 300 mm, mais cela pourrait être légèrement différent et cette valeur est définie quelque part dans le micrologiciel.

Quand vous avez dit qu'il n'était pas "imprimé au centre", j'ai supposé que vous vouliez dire qu'il était imprimé dans le coin. Vous pouvez donc ignorer tout ce que j'ai écrit dans mes messages avant de savoir quel pourrait être le problème. Laissez-moi relire vos messages récents et regarder la vidéo...

Cura est gratuit pour tous et également open source afin que tout le monde puisse consulter ou modifier le code et que quelques personnes contribuent à cura. Les développeurs adorent cela et incorporent généralement du code provenant de programmeurs extérieurs. Les profils d'imprimantes d'imprimantes non ultimaker sont tous fournis par des bénévoles. Idéalement, ils sont fournis par le fabricant de l'imprimante, mais malheureusement, la plupart des fabricants d'imprimantes ne prendront même pas en charge le profil d'imprimante pour leur propre imprimante ! C'est très ennuyeux. Samuel Pinches vit en Australie. Alfawise est en Chine. Je ne pouvais même pas trouver un site Web pour Alfawise. Cura est testé sur de nombreux types d'ordinateurs, sur Mac, PC, Linux. Le gcode résultant est testé sur des dizaines d'imprimantes avec des centaines de modèles, de tests et de matériaux différents. Mais il n'est pas nécessaire de le tester sur des imprimantes tierces car ce n'est pas nécessaire. Les profils sont soit maintenus par des entreprises comme Alfawise, soit ils ne le sont pas. Ultimaker publie des versions bêta de Cura en partie pour que des entreprises comme Alfawise puissent tester Cura et signaler des bogues. En partie pour qu'Alfawise puisse mettre à jour leurs profils. Je doute qu'Alfawise ait jamais fait l'un ou l'autre parce que la plupart des entreprises chinoises d'imprimantes 3D ne le font pas. Assez parlé de cura... revenons à votre problème...

Isn't this the front side of the model? You said right side of model? Do you mean they are to the right of each corner? Is the model supposed to have this marbling like pattern? I think the vertical lines might be ringing. If so then they would fade out as you get farther from each corner. They would appear only *after* the print head has passed the corner. If it is ringing there are lots of great ways to reduce it. Basically you can play with the jerk and acceleration values. Cura already has settings called "jerk control" and "acceleration control". Quite a few settings actually. Designed to get rid of ringing. Especially for the S5 and S3. I don't know if these are enabled by default for the UM2+C and I don't know if they have been tuned for the UM2+C. If this is ringing I can help you with the formula for setting the acceleration and jerk values. You first need to know the harmonic vibration frequency or period of the vibrations so you have to measure the distance between each vertical line and you have to know the print speed for the outer wall. From those 2 numbers you can get the period and that results in a simple calculation to choose the perfect acceleration to halt the vibrations. Or they could be infill showing through. Look at the part in PREVIEW mode in cura and see if there are internal infill structures that match the location of the vertical lines. If so then make sure to print the outer walls before the infill (there are a few settings in cura to change this). If it's infill it shouldn't fade out as you get farther from a corner.

Oh. Pardon. Je n'avais pas lu votre message. Je n'ai regardé que les gcodes. Ils peuvent ressembler à du chinois mais vous pouvez les lire assez facilement en utilisant un guide comme celui-ci : https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code Plus important encore, regardez les valeurs X et Y. Si votre imprimante mesure 200 mm sur 200 mm, elles doivent rester comprises entre 0 et 200 et le milieu de votre zone d'impression est d'environ 100 mm. Je pense qu'il serait utile de publier une vidéo de ce que vous voulez dire lorsque vous dites qu'il ne s'imprime pas au centre.

Ces gcodes me semblent bons. En supposant que votre imprimante mesure environ 20 cm sur 20 cm, ces gcodes ont l'air bien. Si votre imprimante mesure 10 cm sur 10 cm, je peux vous aider à corriger votre configuration cura. Encore une fois - si vous n'avez pas mis à jour cura, pourquoi pensez-vous que cura cesserait soudainement de fonctionner correctement. Comme le dit darkdvd, c'est probablement votre imprimante. Quelque chose s'est cassé sur votre imprimante. Soit le firmware ou le matériel.

Le problème a-t-il commencé lorsque vous avez installé une nouvelle version de Cura ? Si ce n'est pas le cas, cela ressemble à un problème avec l'imprimante elle-même et vous aurez plus de chances d'obtenir une réponse si vous postez en anglais dans la section "tiers" de ce forum car la section française est vue par moins de personnes. J'ai regardé vos paramètres cura et le problème le plus courant n'est pas un problème pour vous. Donc, je pense que c'est peut-être votre imprimante. Je pourrais être sûr que si vous postiez plus de gcodes - les 1000 premières lignes suffisent.

Quick answer: hold down the shift key Longer answer: There are blue, green, and red arrows. Click on one of those and release to instantly rotate exactly 90 degrees. Or click and drag to rotate by steps of 15 degrees. Or click and drag, then hold down shift key while dragging to rotate down to 1 degree precision. Unfortunately I don't know how to go below 1 degree precision.

A workaround is to rename the stl file always to the same file and use the F5 feature where it reloads the STL files. I mean this saves you a lot of time positioning blockers and such. Then after slicing save the resulting gcode file to match the correct version name/number.

While sketchup doesn't enforce solid parts, if you are really good with sketchup, by now you probably found some great extensions to help you keep your parts manifold. If you've put in a thousand hours into sketchup and you don't have to think about what your fingers are doing then I'd stick with sketchup and use some of the manifold testing tools if you aren't already. Here's a great article about making manifold parts (solid parts) using sketchup. Extremely quick and easy reading. Will save you hundreds of hours of headache. https://i.materialise.com/blog/3d-printing-with-sketchup/ On the other hand, if you have never used sketchup, stay the hell away! 🙂

in PREVIEW mode, the code to display what will be printed doesn't do well when "infill layer thickness" feature is used. It shows a gap in layers (because it does indeed not print that layer) but the next layer where it *does* print the infill, it shows it as double wide when really it should show double tall. This is explained if you click "marketplace" in the upper right corner and install the "settings guide" plugin. Then restart cura and hover over the setting "infill layer thickness". So basically the feature works but the PREVIEW mode doesn't display it properly.

This feature partly exists. It is called "infill layer thickness" and does what you want from the opposite perspective. The "layer height" is the outer layer height of the outer walls. You set infill layer height to a larger multiple (e.g. layer height is .2 and infill layer thickness is .4) It only works if you have 2 layers with the same shape and doesn't do your fancier version of dealing with overhangs and other changes from one layer to the next. But at least it's smart enough to detect this automatically.

firmware 7.0.4 just came out! maybe that will fix the issue? I'd still contact support.

I haven't done a dual STL print an a while but you can certainly do it. I think you have to also uncheck "ensure models are kept apart". That's also in preferences (not in the settings). Also try selecting 2 models, right clicking and try to do "group" or "merge". I forget what those do as well. Sorry I don't remember how to do this but hopefully my thoughts will help. Oh - and you can assign each model to a different extruder. Maybe that helps?

I'd go to support.ultimaker.com and in the top right corner there is text that says "submit a request". Click that and fill it all out. Call it a firmware bug. Refer to this topic on the forum. The workaround is to not use the material station (retract all filaments from the station, power down, unplug electrical connections to MS, put spool holders on the back of the S5, power back up). Anyway if you submit it this way as a firmware bug it should go right to Ultimaker employees who can fix this and bypass your reseller. Make sure to let them know that multiple people with the material station have this problem.

That link above worked. Those white parts look pretty good. However the very first picture - the blue one where you have 2 lines, then a gap, then 2 lines, then a gap - not so good. It looks to me like 2 problems at the same time. The first problem is underextrusion. Was this a bottom layer? If so then it's probably a leveling issue as your white parts look fine for extrusion. The other issue is probably backlash/play. The fix for that is usually to tighten your belts. That's the most common reason for having 2-lines then a gap, then 2 lines. Then a gap. backlash on only one axis. Was there a question anywhere in your post?

Unfortunately I don't see any photos. Did you use the "Drag files here to attach..." options? Alternatively maybe put all the photos on google drive or similar and post a link to them.

This might be helpful althoughy you never clarified what you want to do:

What do you mean that it is at "any printer"? Is that some web based slicing software or something? Are you running cura yourself or some service running cura? I'm a bit confused about this aspect of your question.

Can you be more specific? There are 1) the edge boundaries, 2) there is the feature where you can't get 2 parts on top of each other (which can also be disabled), 3) there are the clips that hold the glass and those areas are disallowed also. And more but those are most likely what you mean. Did you mean #3? Did you remove the clips from your printer? Or is your print/model bigger as you get above the clips? Or do you mean one of the other things I mentioned? Also the answer will probably require editing a file and the file location depends whether you have linux, ios, or windows. So what operating system are you running cura in?

I forwarded your question to some friends (one works for UM, one works for a reseller). here is what they said: Yeah, contact support. He doesn't mention what material. https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/categories/360002336619-Materials Or the printer: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011734779-Ultimaker-S-line-safety-and-compliance- The printer does have a declaration of conformity. As far as I know, no UM material has a medical certification. He might want to check the marketplace for bio-compatible materials. To contact support click those 9 dots in the upper right corner of this web page, then "support", then also in the top right corner (now more to the left) click "submit a request".

Rubbery materials include "ninjaflex", "cheetah", "TPU", "TPC". These are more difficult to print as you are kind of "pushing on a string" so the feeder has to push very gently which means you have to do some tricks. Cheetah is about 100X easier to print than ninjaflex because cheetah is a bit stiffer. Look at the "hardness" of each of these materials to get an idea. Ninjaflex is like rubber band material. It's the softest but Cheetah is quite soft as well (think sneaker sole). The hardness will be a letter and number like "50D". Each letter A,B,C,D is a different scale and you can find translation tables and learn if 30D or 50A is harder or if they are the same, etc. The material station isn't going to help much and your material could get clogged in there (probably not) so I'd be ready for some headaches. But the most important thing: I don't know if these absorb inks. I don't know if these are good for making stamps. Maybe do some googling around about 3d printing stamps (in the hobby areas just to learn some things as hobbyists are always ahead in the learning curve). Once you pick a material ask again for suggestions on settings as these are tricky materials to print and you want all the advice you can get.