gr5

@MariMakes - can you get the message above (from tornadijo) to someone on the Cura team? It sounds like this person figured out something pretty important to change in the cura installer for windows.

It sounds like something specific to cura and your printer. What kind of printer do you have? Maybe someone else has a similar problem. I guess I would look at the gcodes of the bad gcode file to see what they are telling the printer to do and compare that to a gcode file that works. The problem is most likely in the first 20 or so gcodes. Are you printing through USB or using a uSD card or something else?

@xphillyboy it works fine for most people. Something is wrong. What kind of printer are you using and what did you select for your machine profile? Actually - just post your project file. That will answer my question and also show what profile and settings you are using and show us your model as well. To do this go to "file" "save project..." and post that file here.

Works for me: https://forward-am.com/material-portfolio/ultrafuse-filaments-for-fused-filaments-fabrication-fff/metal-filaments/ultrafuse-support-layer/

That sounds very strange. I'd restart cura as sometimes the gui does strange things if I leave it running for a few days.

https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360013133699-Active-leveling-errors

By the way, creating a custom material on um2 was extremely confusing at first. You hit the save button and then it asks you for a material and you have to select that before it does the save. something like that. It's not clear but just remember the order: save and then select the material to save to.

Those "where" settings are normally in the UM2 firmware. You control them on the UM2. In "material" settings. You can create a custom material and set those things for that material. Alternatively, in cura, you can go into the machine settings and change the gcode type to "marlin". then cura will suddenly let you control more things in cura (including nozzle temp, bed temp) as the two most important. For a temp tower or retraction tower, this is probably a good idea but once you've figured it out, then I recommend setting the machine settings back the way they were and setting these "where" settings on the UM2. Although I suppose it's fine either way. I actually have some gcode files that I can print the same one for PLA or PETG. I just change the material on the printer but use the same old gcode file. Because the material customizations are on the printer. Not in cura.

It looks like all the gcodes in your file are supported - or enough that it should work. Here you can find a list of UM3 supported gcodes:

Just take the comment section at the head of any UM3 print job and paste it at the top of your gcode file.

In 4.X you might have to make sure that remove empty first layers is unchecked. In 5.X they hid that setting so you are screwed. I assume because the hollow for the magnet is too close to the bottom of the print.

Okay @guna this conversation is just going too slow for me so I'm out. I gave you 9 weeks. If you ever reply I will not see your reply but I want to. I want to learn more about your issue and help you solve it. So if you ever reply here in this topic please also send me a direct message. Click on my icon to the left and then there will be a blue "message" button and send me a link to this topic or just say it's "print layer are shifting in middle of the prints" and I can google my way back to this topic. I have to say I'm very interested in your problem as I've never seen it before. It's probably related to a problem I *have* seen before as I've seen them all.

Did you do a factory reset? Many parameters/constants (likely including prime amount) are set back to default by a factory reset. Also I think there is a bug possibly where if you end the print with an abort it retracts much too far and so you have to undo that either by hand (sliding in the filament) or with the MOVE option.

oh good. I thought maybe you got it backwards in pin.h from your wording, lol. Ah - there is a jumper for the Z axis so you can do either 8 or 16 ustepping but that doesn't apply to E1 of course. Be warned that you are only changing the default. You will likely have to do a FACTORY RESET in the menu system of the UM2 in order to get that value made current. I could be wrong. Anyway it's a good idea to do a factory reset anyway. Certain defaults are stored in a special spot in the eeprom that doesn't get erased when you update the firmware. Newer versions of Marlin know where the older values are stored but if you go backwards in firmware versions then those values get all messed up. factory reset returns everything to defaults. Or you can do the tinkerMarlin which is much better than ultimaker marlin and allows you to adjust steps/mm right in the menu.

I think it's hidden if you have a profile that doesn't allow the prime tower? Anyway just type "tower" in the search box above the settings and the setting should show up (again - unless it's irrelevant).

Looking at the schematic, both X and Y share the same current control and both E0 and E1 also share the same current control. I wouldn't worry too much about the current. If you build the "tinkergnome" version of the firmware (that's what I use on all my UM2 printers) then you get the added bonus of current control in the menu system (instead of having to rebuild the firmware). I think? I think it's there. Either way you can control it using a gcode as well. I document that somewhere on this forum (what gcode to use).

There would have to be 4 precompiled firmwares to swap with the 4 other stepper drivers (x,y,z,e). But it's not hard to build the firmware. I posted detailed instructions and the instructions have been improved a few times and many people have followed them. There are quite a few steps you can skip if you aren't doing simulation (which you don't need to do). Regarding current - it's software controlled current control. There is probably a pin you have to change for that but I wouldn't worry about it. The current for the 4 axes varies slightly but not by much. Next you need to know what to change and in which .h file. You want to edit pins.h. More info here: The nice thing about the above post is it has the right pin numbers for the E1 driver so you just need to edit the Z related pins.

It all still works. I'm pretty sure it has serial connection somewhere. And it definitely has the uSD card repair process. You don't have to get the serial cable from olimex as many companies make these 3 pin USB-to-serial cables but make sure it is one that can handle 3.3V signals as some only do 5V I think and most of them work with either (not certain). So in other words I think it will just work but you can look up who makes the linux board in your S5 and look at the specs and see if they have a serial connection and if it's the same voltage as the olimex version. Most likely they are all 3.3V these days. Or I can look it up for you if you have the manufacturer and part number.

My working theory is still that it is a subtle firmware bug. It doesn't seem to happen if you disable geek mode. My firmware versions: 17.02.1 (this printer doesn't get much use as it has the original black feeder still) 19.03.1 18.03.4 The second two printers get used every week. They probably average 5 prints per week each usually things pile up and they are busy and then I do nothing on them for a week or so. I have a 4th printer that I took out of geek mode because of the crashes but I don't use the ulticontroller for that printer anymore as I used that printer for experiments with a beagle bone black controller. I wrote some custom firmware for that printer. All 3 work fine for me but I have gotten the occasional crash where the display freezes but the printer keeps going. I don't necessarily notice if it's the last print of the day and I turn off the printer without looking at the display. I actually haven't noticed a problem (even in geek mode) in the last year.

Unfortunately very few people on here have a UM2+C. It seems it's not popular although the few people I know who have it think its the best print Ultimaker makes for the price. Anyway the only person I know who might have one is this guy and he knows networks: @Smithy Although he may have questions. What do you mean "same problem here". I guess if you have trouble with wifi, wired is so much simpler so did you do a wired connection? What do you mean by "given an ip address"? Are you not using DHCP to distribute IP addresses?

Well if it were me I'd get an olimex serial-cable-F and the next time it won't boot then I'd hook that up and see what error messages occur during boot. That can clear up what program is crashing. If the error is bad sectors on the "disk" or if it's some other issue - maybe digital factory is crashing on some kind of situation with your models or something. But that's me - I'm pretty decent with linux. If you are good with linux then that's a great option. I explain how to do all that stuff here - particularly at the very bottom where I show where the log files are: http://gr5.org/unbricking/

I think maybe you can create a complicated shape in the "avoid volume". An STL. Insert that mesh in the area where you don't want to print. Then click on this mesh and give it infill of 0%, walls=0 top/bottom=0. And it should print nothing but now "avoid printed parts" I think will go around your "avoid" mesh.

@nallath? Does this make sense? Should this be a change to the cura windows installer?

Here's the basic problem. Both meshes have walls (and top and bottom). As you can see below the modifier I put 2 walls and you can see the red and green inner wall. The purple shows the model has 3 walls and you can see the 1 red plus 2 green walls. Setting "wall line count" to zero only removers the "blue" indicated walls. The same issue occurs with top/bottom surfaces. So... I think you need a drill. (click image below once for the full scale view)