gr5

Which doesn't cost money, FYI.

This is pretty common. The power bricks are running close to their limit and can age. I'd get a new one. There are software solutions as well. MUCH more info here:

I don't know the answer. I never tried it. There are 4 clips that hold the glass in place - they go on top of the glass. Two in the back and two in the front. So you might be fighting one or more of those clips. I think it might work. Keep in mind that with just a few ounces of pressure the glass will move up 1mm or so. And similarly the metal will go down. I'm not sure which is stiffer (glass or metal heated bed). We think of glass as very stiff but it takes surprisingly little force to move the edge of the glass up just 1mm. I think a washer in the corner, under the glass might work perfectly. Assuming the metal is similarly as stiff as the glass.

I believe there is a way to re-install the firmware using a special process that involves a microSD card. Contact your reseller. I'm thinking about this process but I don't know if it's different for the UM2+C: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/20024-recovering-a-bricked-um3s3s5/

Ah!! I'll fix the topic subject!

I just looked at your gcode on a um3 and it looks like you can EASILY rotate the ramp 90 degrees. Put the low end of the ramp to the right and the high end to the left and pull it close to the front of the print bed. Also use that hairspray. Any print over 4 hours deserves hairspray. 🙂 OH! And move that prime tower. Position it at the rear center. of the bed. You don't want that tower falling over either. In cura settings use the search box and enter "tower". Set the X value to... 100 I guess?

Okay so you answered #1,#2 above, thanks. I understand better now. Please try #4. It's extremely common for the rear corners to be low which causes bad adhesion. It's because it is tempered glass and how they make the glass at the factory. The glass tends to be higher in the center and lower on the four corners. However the 3 leveling positions are over the 3 screws. Only 3 point leveling (ultimaker S5 and S3 do MUCH more than just 3 points). So those 3 points are level but that means the center is high. Because you level at the front 2 corners, those 2 points tend to be fine (the front 2 corners) but because in the back you only level in the center, it tends to be extra low in the rear 2 corners. You can measure how bad it is with a straight edge placed on the glass in the printer. Note that the metal under the glass also contributes (or can contribute) easily 0.2mm of flexure. So I guess you could but a few sheets of paper in the rear 2 corners between the glass and the metal. If the glass has enough bow to it you can request a new glass free of charge. If the glass is better than some tolerance, they will charge you for another glass which might also be equally warped. I recommend you do #4 above - position the part away from the rear corners.

ug. 😞 There are ways to continue a print but you have to keep the heated bed hot in the meantime and you have to disable active leveling and there are all kinds of tricks you need to learn. I would go for it but I recommend most people just start over.

I don't think that matters. Just do the firmware update again. It only takes about a minute. The computer inside the UM2+ is basically an arduino and even if you destroy the program (the firmware) it still lets you load a new firmware through USB cable. However there can be issues related to windows and com ports and moving com cables around and com ports with values larger than about 7 (cura should be able to handle larger com port numbers but I don't think it does). There are alternate programs that can load firmware besides cura but try cura first. Tell us what issues are happening if you can't load the firmware. E.g. is this a pc? mac? linux? Do you know where the hex file is or are you just loading default firmware?

Think of printing a cube, "wall" in cura is how thick the wall is before you get to infill. Now think of printing a vase. "wall" in cura probably does nothing because the actual model thickness is probably less than wall*2. Cura isn't supposed to alter your model. So the wall thickness in the model should match the final print. How to measure distances in cura If you want to use Cura to measure an STL file, that's not what Cura is designed for and you should probably use CAD software however there is a plugin that you can install in about 60 seconds. Go to Marketplace button in top right corner of cura, wait a few seconds for the plugins to load. Look for "Measure Tool". The icon is blue and shaped like a plug (as are most of the plugins written by "field of view"). Click install and then restart cura. Click on the model. Notice the new tool at the bottom of the tools on the left side. Select that and click twice on your model to get a measurement. rotate the view to make sure you clicked where you think you clicked.

I don't think you can run the "cold pull" feature but you can do it manually - for a cold pull you set the temperature to typical printing temperature, remove the bowden, push down on the filament into the hot core and then lower the temperature to the "cold" temp. Maintain downward pressure until it gets to the cold temp. Once the temp reaches the cold temp you pull up quite hard and if you get it just right it takes quite a bit of force - maybe 5 pounds force (so do it with the print head in a corner so you don't bend the rods) and then if you are lucky the tip of the filament is shaped like the inside of the nozzle including the tip. And any clogs come out as well. Then cut off the end of the filament and repeat (if you want). If the filament came out too easily then try a lower cold temp the next time. If it won't come out at all, raise the temp by 5C and keep trying. Typical "cold" temps: PLA 95C Nylon 120C But for me I mostly only get clogs on PVA. All other materials - I haven't had a clog that needed a cold pull in over a year (that's with 5 active printers. not non-stop. Not every day. But I typically have 3 printers going simultaneously for at least a few hours every week) Anyway, my point is you can play with the temperature while the printer is paused (I think? Pretty sure.) so that's all you need to be able to do in order to change cores, change filament, clean a core, etc.

Su modelo es complicado. Parece que está utilizando soporte de árbol, que es más complicado y con errores. No creo que haya respuestas fáciles, excepto "prueba con un cura más antiguo" e "intenta hacer soporte usando mesh mixer" y "usa soporte normal". Puede obtener mejores respuestas si publica en la parte en inglés del foro, ya que más personas leerán su publicación.

The bottom of your part isn't perfect flat/level. The only portion of your part that is touching the print bed is under that one "arm" or "leg" or whatever you call it. The blue area is what is called a "skirt" and it should go all the way around your part. It has 2 purposes - one is to purge the nozzle and get the filament flowing nicely. The other is to check leveling to see if you have good leveling all the way around the part (for example sometimes the rear of your bed is a bit high or low and you can see this while it's printing the skirt and you can adjust the knobs to fix this before it starts printing your actual print). If you don't fix this issue that the bottom of your part isn't flat you will get a horrible first layer as it won't print most of your part and then as it prints the second or third (or whenever it gets to your part) level it will be printing the bottom of your part mostly in thin air. 1) one fix is to just set the Z value for your part to be slightly negative. Click on the part - select the move tool on the left and then for the Z value try -0.5mm at first and slice and if that works well lower that value closer to 0 until it just works nicely such that it prints all of the bottom of your part. Of course this will change your final dimensions by the negative value. Oh - before you can do that you have to set the following setting - go to menu "Preferences" "Configure Cura" and then uncheck "automatically drop models to the build plate". 2) Another fix is to click the part, choose the rotation tool and then select the "lay flat" button. This might work. It will try to tilt your part enough so it is touching as flat as possible. Although I'm suspicious this won't work. 3) Another fix is to fix the model in tinkercad. That one post is slightly lower than the others. Maybe you can fix it? Maybe all the posts are at different heights so maybe it will be a pain in the neck. I don't know without seeing the model itself.

Never heard of that printer. I googled for it and was hard pressed to find anything. Look for documention on "setup" or "leveling" or "setting Z home position". Somewhere in the controlling screen for the printer there is a way to set z=0 to be when the nozzle just barely touches the print bed. Some printers have a leveling sensor built into the print head. Sometimes you use a thin sheet of paper (typically 0.1mm thick) and use that to tell the printer that the nozzle is 0.1mm off the bed. Sometimes there is a limit switch that you physically have to move up or down to set the z=0 point (the point where the nozzle just touches the print bed). Part of this procedure you also want to level the bed (not level to the earth but level to the printing gantry) by touching the nozzle to the bed in (typically) 3 points. All of this is part of the printer firmware and unrelated to Cura. By the way you wan to level it a bit low such that when you go to Z=0 the nozzle is pushing a little bit into the bed. That way you get good squish on the first layer. I typically level about 0.1mm low such that when z=0.1 on the printer, the nozzle has just barely touched the print bed.

Could you explain what we are seeing in the photo? It looks like you are doing 2 different colors of PLA? Or is one color PVA? How many layers is this? The black looks like only one layer (maybe 2???). The lighter color looks to be at least 2 layers? Is that correct? The black filament looks pretty darn good. Leveling looks pretty good except maybe at the top edge and top right peninsula. This makes me think that maybe part of your glass is lower than the rest. This is kind of common on UM printers where the two rear corners of the glass is lower than the rest. But I can't tell - it could be that the far right corner in the photo is where you peeled the print off the glass first and it just ripped as you were removing it but it printed just fine. Now the lighter colored filament looks like maybe it's more layers? And as Greg says it looks underextruded but hard to tell. Underextruded bottom layers tend to peel off the glass. Maybe you should post the project so I can get a better idea of what I'm supposed to be seeing. Do menu "file" "save project as" and post the resulting file. It will include your model so hopefully it's okay to share that. It will also include all your settings. Also I should say that the lighter colored material has a tinge to it that strongly reminds me of a particular amazon PETG material (which would definitely underextrude if you told Cura it was PLA because it would print too cold). But if you say it's PLA then it's probably also PLA. Also color changes due to lighting and camera factors. So: 1) Please explain how many layers in photo, color of material, which extruder has which material? 2) Is the "brim issue" happening mostly in the far right corner in the photo? 3) Maybe post the project file so I have a better idea of what I'm seeing here. 4) Maybe move the part closer to the front of the printer in cura before printing it (as close to front edge as Cura allows) - often the rear two corners of the printer have a harder time. Or rotate the part 90 degrees clockwise on the bed to avoid the rear two corners of the printer.

Set the following to zero: Wall Thickness Top/Bottom Thickness That's it.

@PLAmenPRINT - without trying to duplicate it myself, this looks like a bug to me. Posting here may get the attention of the developers but what is much more likely to work, is to post an issue on github. If you don't already have a github account you have to create one but it's free. Then go over here and post the same photos as above but also please post a project file (in cura do menu "file" and then "save project as"). That will include all your machine settings, your model, and so on. For either of the two failure modes above. https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues

This is a common problem. Is this problem occurring on your UM3? Are you using active leveling? There are about 5 things that can cause this problem. A photo would help diagnose. 1) The most common is that it is printing too far from the glass. Try pushing up on the glass to see if it squishes the filament better. You want it like a pancake - much wider than tall. You want the width of each brim line to be quite a bit wider than it is tall. Like a pancake. So as it prints the brim - just push up a little bit on the glass and see if suddenly it works great. If this improves the brim then you have narrowed the problem - do you use manual or active leveling? 2) Oils on glass, bad surface prep. how old is this printer. If you get down low and look at the glass almost horizontally do you see lot's of dust? Clean that all off. There may be oils from your fingers on there as well. I recommend cleaning initially with any kind of soap and then final clean with glass cleaner. I've heard some say that some glass cleaners finish with an oily coating but I don't know what's good and what is bad. 3) glues. There are tons of glue choices that work great. For example magigoo. So I'll give you one other suggestion that you can probably try now: After cleaning the glass (roughly clean it once per month) put down just a little bit of glue stick. Just do a swirl that takes you 4 seconds. Then remove most of it: take a tissue or paper towel, wet it, and spread that bit of glue evenly all over (and also removing most of it). Then heat up the bed (or you can start it heating before you start doing this) and wait for the bed to dry. I have a video showing this technique and others if you seach youtube for "gr575 warping" but it's a long video.

If it's "new" then contact whomever sold it to you asap. Meanwhile turn it off for a few seconds and try again. Bootup can take anywhere from a minimum of 30 seconds to 4 minutes. Give it 10 minutes before turning it off. I'm going to guess "infant mortality" on some electronic component (as they usually die in the first few hours of use and then mortality rate on electronics drops sharply). But it could be as simple as a cable fell out as shipping services can be just horrible. Call the reseller that you bought it from and they might have you check some cables before sending it back.

Oh!! "not an artist". Obviously I am a bad listener (so to speak). If you expect you will teach any students CAD then perhaps you should start with tinkercad. You can do almost anything (not great for sculping though) and it's probably the easiest cad software out there. Watch a few youtube videos to quickly learn how powerful it can be. I love the one where they guy made a lobster but watch practical part designing as well.

I'd contact your reseller. They can help you fix this. Or you can go all "manual leveling" if you prefer that route. I did manual only for a few months on my S5 but eventually went back to the active leveling. To go manual use this tool: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/39188-ultituner-a-tool-to-tweak-your-printer

Sometimes it's better to go with a slightly older version of Cura. I have no idea if this is the case for your particular Mac. Cura 4.X is a very mature, feature rich product with very few (none?) serious bugs. However there have been problems with certain newer Macs. And I think the Cura team maybe switched to newer libraries that now work on the newer Macs but not the older ones? I'm really not sure as what I read about this subject kind of went out the other ear. I am not a Mac person so hopefully one of them who has been following the issues can answer. I don't know a M1 MBP from an iphone.

Okay looking at the chart if you want organic shapes and insist on using a Mac, maybe the above chart is overly limited. I have to tell you that Blender is amazing but the learning curve is the worst software out there. It has too many features. It can make a feature animated film. It just has too many features. It is just amazing. The learning curve is insane. There are great videos on the internet but still... This might be more useful to finding the right CAD software for "organic shapes on a mac": https://www.sculpteo.com/en/3d-learning-hub/3d-printing-software/best-3d-modeling-software-mac/

Regarding CAD software - I strongly strongly advise you go with this chart (click twice to make bigger). It sounds like, as an artist, you want "organic shapes" which is extremely different kind of software than if you want to make mechanical parts (like gears, brackets, boxes).

If you are going to get a super cheap printer, get a Creality Ender 3 pro. Creality is relatively mature (super mature for the 3d printing world) and relatively good quality when you go this cheap. Also there are probably 100,000 of them out there so there are plenty of people to help you. I do not have a Creality (I only have Ultimaker printers) but I hear a lot from friends who have them and people on these forums.