gr5

There used to be such a plugin. It was called "tweak at layer" and you could add any gcode you wanted. I'm not sure if it still exists. I wrote a plugin back for cura 14.X which is very old and different from modern Cura. The thing was you got to look at only one line at a time and in order. I assume it still works that way with "post processing" plugins? If so then there's no way to know that you are on the last layer without first searching for the number of layers (found in a comment near the top of the gcode).

I think maybe you have to calibrate the lift switch? But I'm not sure I understand what you are trying to say. Please post the video on youtube or google drive or somewhere and post a link to the video in this topic.

@CarloK?? Is this a known issue? He has the S5 pro bundle.

That's for the UM2+. He has UM2 "regular". You can tell by the angle of the side fans. UM2+ fans are horizontal. UM2 fans are tilted. But @Porkpie this is fantastic information. I saved a link to your post above as I will likely need this again. It occurs to me - that doesn't help one to know how much to rotate that round nut (with the holes in it). That also can set the tension on the white teflon part.

Did the print complete before the issue? There are 2 issues and it's important to be sure you have the firmware issue and not the other issue.

Note that PVA needs to be kept very dry. 30% humidity is too high. a few little packets of desiccant won't help. I have about a cup of desiccant (1/4 liter) and have to recharge the desiccant every month. "ruined" PVA can be restored by heating it but read about the process.

During manual leveling - the 1mm thing should be done by turning the computer dial. Not the screws. Also if you have leveled the printer ever and not totally taken apart the bed then you can probably skip the 1mm part. I just go click click click and skip those. It's just to keep the nozzle from hitting the clips.

There is a better way where you don't have to edit every gcode file. Here is the solution in ahoeben's post:

4 weeks later? Wow. Not in a rush. No judgement. Okay this really sucks. I feel your pain. I've never seen it quite like this. I have 2 theories: 1) check if the print head is loose or the core. When it isn't printing push with just a pound of force (don't push hard) on the nozzle left/right/in/out and see if there is a lot of play. If the amount of play is similar to the deviations thent that must be it. 2) slipping pulley. The pulleys can slip but the direction doesn't usually cancel out and come back over and over to the starting spot so this is strange unless there is a flat spot on the axis? Also this kind of layer movement usually only happens on one axis. Is it possible it's only happening on X or Y but not both? If so then I'd tighten the hell out of all the pulleys for that axis. Push the head back and forth in the "bad" axis and see which belts and pulleys move. Tighten the hell out of the set screws on the side of those pulleys. Especially get the one on the stepper. If you have a long allen wrench you can get it into the pulley without having to take those corner-covers off. If you do take the corner cover off it's only 1 or 2 screws (if you are removing more than 2 screws then you don't understand what I mean by "corner cover").

I'm not sure. Not every failure seems to get logged. I vaguely remember there are different things in log files with different names? I don't remember.

I want to look at the normals but also your settings so please post your project file as Greg asks above.

It looks like he's in the USA so he could just contact support@fbrc8.com to get a price quote. I'ts probably very cheap. fbrc8 doesn't sell Ultimaker printers but they have all the parts because they assemble all the UM printers in the USA including yours. They will probably want your serial number as well so if you do email them, include that just to save time.

wow. I think the 4 screws were a little too tight. plasticweld sounds like a good idea or you can print a new top: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-printhead-top-bottom-pieces

In general I don't recommend z-hop for printers other than delta printers. If you do a z-hop then part of the layer was printed where the bed was moving away from the nozzle (on layer change) but then another portion is printed with the bed moving up towards the nozzle (after a hop). And if you have even just 0.02mm (1/5th of the thickness of a sheet of paper) of backlash then you will get ugly horizontal layer lines in your print. Now a brand new UM2+ might not have any play in the Z screw but if there is any dirt in that zscrew at all then you will get some play issues. 125F is 52C. Not as good as 70C. By my calculations if you want the humidity at 10% (lower is better) at 52C then at 20C you need the humidity at 60% maximum. Is that the case? Do you have air conditioning or something? If it's truly 52C all around the filament then that should be good enough. Did you loosen the spooling a bit? If not then does it seem like the lower 1/3 of your print (first meter) is much better than the upper 2/3? I don't know - it seems like you shouldn't have to loosen the filament on the spool at all if you are only printing 2 meters - that's probably 2 turns around the spool. I guess I would try printing your part in cura 4.X and if it gets better again then post that project file also and I can compare all the settings (but tell me what versions of cura exactly you used). I think Ultimaker changed some things in the printer profiles when they switched to 5.0 but I'm not certain. In general they hate to change profiles but I think once every 5 years or so they should just go for it. But with BIG warning messages. What I *do* recommend for a material this flexible is to add a drop of oil to the filament before you insert it into the bowden. I do this for ninjaflex which is shore hardness 85A - almost identical to your filament. I should also let you know that those strings are very wispy and you can remove them almost instantly with a flame such as a match or gas stove flame or similar. Apply to those strings for just 1/4 second. They disappear! (actually they shrink down to a tiny ball that are harder to see and usually you can remove those pretty easily).

yes! 🙂

Those strings sure look like moisture related. What temperature did you set the vegetable drier to? And is your material really "TPE"? I googled it and it's kind of a vague name - could you provide a link to the material please? I guess I would try heating the print bed of your printer to about 70C and putting 5cm of the material on the print bed, under a towel for 3 minutes and then squishing the material to see if it holds the dent. Then change the temperature up or down to try to find where the material is dented easily. then set the drier to 5C cooler than that temp (or 70C whichever is cooler - if you go above 80C you could warp the spool holder itself - not a disaster but it can be quite annoying to have warped spool). Once you know the ideal temperature, make sure you unspool enough material for the print (about 6 meters) before drying the material. You don't have to cut the filament - just unspool it loose enough for air to get among the filament. Or dry it on the heated bed of your printer with a towel over it and sit the spool on top of the unspooled filament. In this case you can set the temp much higher as just 5mm above the heated bed it will be quite a bit cooler. At 70C, for unspooled filament, it takes maybe 2 to 4 hours to dry it. If you don't loosen the spool then it can take days or weeks to dry the material deep in the spool. At 50C you definitely want to dry overnight.

Unfortunately, you did exactly what I was afraid you would do. 😞 I'm pretty sure you posted just the model 3mf file. I don't think you saved the project file. So the file you sent doesn't include any settings. It doesn't show the orientation of the model (although the picture helps). It doesn't tell me what temperature you printed at. Nothing. Just the model. Please read my post above one more time. Thanks!

lol. I think you can place the first object farthest from the homing corner and then the next object closer and closer to home position on a diagonal line and the gantry won't hit the earlier parts - even if it homes between parts (I don't think it does home). But the point is put the parts diagonally across the print bed so the gantry doesn't hit the previous. I think Cura possibly even knows this and will let you print well spaced diagonal objects even if taller than your gantry? Maybe not.

Once you get the right day, you can search for things like "error" or "fail". Post the whole file and tell us what you found. Next time this happens write down the date and time when you approached the printer and saw the message so you know it's whatever is in the log file just before that date and time.

No. Look inside the files. There should be date and time at the start of every line (if I remember right). I think there are files that end in "log" and ".log" is the newest and ".log0" is older and ".log1" even older. If I remember right. And then I think there is some different extension with similar situation where only one of the files covers the week (or day) when you had the issue.

??? not sure - when people describe something visual with words I always imagine the wrong thing. So when Mari says "share the .3mf" she means share the project file. Do menu "file" "save project" and post the resulting file. There are other types of 3mf files that are not project files. We want to see the project file which will include your model, how you positioned it, what machine profile, printing profile, material profile you are using and your overridden settings.

TPE? TPU? I'm wondering if the filament absorbed water. When filaments absorb water, the water turns to steam as it prints and that causes steam bubbles in the filament. The filament expands more than usual. You get much more stringing and blobs and things stick together more than they should (because they expanded). Some filaments (e.g. PLA, ABS) are not really affected by humidity or only subtly affected. But many filaments (particularly PVA and Nylon) can absorb too much water in just a few hours. It's usually easy enough to dry the filaments (e.g. for Nylon 75C heated bed temp overnight with towel on top should dry out any loosened filament but 75C for PVA might soften it enough to ruin it). If you pay attention you can see steam coming out of the nozzle as you extrude. Maybe not for the first 10 seconds as you have previously heated filament sitting in the nozzle but pretty soon after. Try the MOVE feature to extrude for a full minute and look for steam. You can also see that the filament goes from shiny (when dry) to foamy/matte (when wet). The key parameters are flow and your filament tension. Make sure tension is at the minimum. The higher the tension the less you are actually extruding as it squeezes to a smaller cross sectional area as it passes through the feeder. For most filaments, flow is at 100% but for flexibile filaments you often see flow values above 100% to compensate for this feeder compression. I'd check the flow in cura 4.8 that you were using and again in cura 5.0. For retraction you want the exact amount for the filament to be resting in the bowden (no pressure). You don't want to actually pull out of the heater block. While printing you can see the filament is pushing up on the top of the bowden arc. When retracting it should just barely rest at the bottom of bowden at the top of the arc. No extra retraction or you can suck air into the nozzle which is worse than no retraction at all.

Well mostly just look at the date and time.

By the way the log files are intimidating at first but if you open a few of them and look at the date and times you'll quickly see that you only need 2 of them and only maybe 1 or 2 logged messages are from the time when your print failed. Then you can post the relevant file (the one that logged during the day of your failure) here and I'll try to tag someone at UM who knows the right firmware person to inform.

"failed"? That's it all it says? This goal of making user interfaces "simpler" can be quite annoying. I doubt it. My wifi was very spotty in the room with my S5 and I've done many network prints (but not in the last 3 years - now I just use the USB flash drive). The S5 has a huge internal drive that is mostly empty and when you do a network print it stores the whole job on there. That doesn't mean it halts the print for some other reason but I really doubt it stops just because you lose connection to internet. There are lots of log files. You can put an USB flash drive in and go to maintenance menu and have it put all the logs onto the flash drive then bring it over to another computer to analyze.