gr5

You are welcome. But I wish more people would believe me. You are not the first person to tell me of this trick. That's why I mentioned it. Anyway it's probably good you spoke to the reseller. Now you'll probably do that immediately if something else goes wrong (and check the forum as well of course!) 🙂

If he put in 2.85mm filament and told cura it was 1.75 then it would over extrude. But if he tried to print 1.75mm filament on an S3 then that would explain the issue right there. 🙂

Does it do total printed material? Is that included?

90+ temps aren't a problem. But if they put a 200 pound box on top - that's a problem. And they often do that kind of thing.

My S5 is several years old and I've never taken apart the feeder. But some people do. go figure. and they reassemble it wrong. Anyway - not your issue. When it takes 24 hours to ask a question and get an answer I tend to put in a bunch of questions and a bunch of answers to speed things up. I still think it's most likely a leveling issue. I'm not getting a lot from you here - I could ask one question at a time but it might be quite a while before you reply and even long before I notice your reply so: 1) Did you try lifting the glass bed on the first layer? That would have told us SO MUCH and we could be much further along. As it is I still don't know if the problem is with leveling (most common) or if the printer is severly underextruding. Or if you messed with cura settings and didn't take all the defaults. 2) Please post your project file from cura. Do "file" "save project as". Post that file here. It's possible it's a slicing issue. For example cure might think your part isn't touching the glass and could be printing above the glass. Or maybe you changed some key setting. 3) If you don't learn anything from #1 and #2, do the MOVE command. I think you choose the middle menu on the left and then choose the filament (pla) and then in the corner of the screen there should be a "..." and then choose MOVE. Wait for it to heat to at least 180C and then start slowly clicking the down arrow and the filament should come out of the nozzle. How many clicks until it starts coming out? More importantly you should be able to get a kink in the filament (reach out and make a kink) to reach the glass bed in less than 10 seconds. If it's taking like 30 seconds (and you are pushing the down arrow faster and it doesn't come out faster) then there is a problem with the feeder or the print core so change print cores. If it reaches the bed in less than 10 seconds then you know all that's working and it's almost certainly a leveling issue.

The only trick I know is to go to each printer and go to "maintenance" menu and in there you can see the usage statistics for each core. Unfortunately if you change cores a lot, this information is almost useless. Personally I have multiple printers and I keep the cores for each printer in a bag with that printer and never swap cores among printers (and some cores only ever go in left slot the rest only ever in right slot). So I can insert each core and read off the statistics. I know most people don't do this.

Maybe when you unloaded and loaded the filament you didn't put it all the way in. Often it seems to stop at a certain point and you think it's loaded but when you manually feed with the "MOVE" procedure described above - often it goes another inch (2 cm) before it starts to extrude. When manually changing filament make sure you get it to extrude quite a bit before beginging a print.

1) Usually that's caused by bad leveling but there are other possibilities. Check leveling by lifting up on the print bed while printing the first layer. If the quality suddenly gets quite good then you leveling issues. You are doing it wrong or active leveling is having issues or something. 2) if it's not leveling then it's some underextrusion issue. Unfortunately there are so many possible causes. Maybe you messed up in the cura slicing. Maybe there is a clog. Maybe the feeder isn't working right. Did you dissasemble the feeder? Try changing cores. What filament is this - are you using CPE filament but printing at PLA temperatures? To rule out the core, try a different core. To rule out the feeder, fight the feeder - when not printing go into the middle menu on the left and click on the filament and then the "..." in the upper right and choose "MOVE". Retract the filament until you see the end in the bowden and then push the down arrow to move it down very slowly and then fight that with your other hand by pulling down as hard as you can with one hand on the filament just below the feeder. You shouldn't be able to beat the feeder. The feeder on an S3 can push with about 15 to 20 pounds of force. You can lift a 10 pounds weight in comparison to judge. Even 5 pounds of force from the S3 feeder should give you a better quality bottom layer than that. So if the feeder doesn't slip with 10 pounds of fighting then the feeder isn't the issue.

Your profile says you have an S3 which means you don't have a material station which means things are simpler. 1) On the feeder there is a lever - you lift that lever and now the filament should slide in or out of the core. 2) If the filament froze in the core (shouldn't ever happen but it's possible) then on the printer heat the core to normal melting temperature (e.g. 200C for PLA). Once it gets up to temperature pull down on the filament at the base of the feeder (again while that lever is up so the feeder isn't fighting you. 3) If it still won't come out wait a few minutes. No more than 3 minutes as many filaments (ABS) will get more difficult. This pause is to let the heat creep up into the core a bit more. For PLA you can let it sit at 200C for 30 minutes no problem. For PVA or ABS 3 minutes max. 3) If it still won't come out - pull quite hard. You can pull with 10 pounds/5kg of force and that's a lot of force and should be enough to get it out. 4) If it still won't come out remove the bowden at the top of the core - slide out that horse shoe shaped clip and don't lose it!!!! Put it somewhere safe! Treat it like gold unless you already have spares. now push down on the outer ring while lifting firmly on the bowden tube. Some people use needle nose pliers to hold down on 2 sides of the ring while lifting on the bowden. 4b) Now push the print head to a corner so you don't bend the rods as you are going to lift with enough force to bend the rods and/or lift the printer off the table. Pull up hard on that filament. Alternatively you can twist the filament. Even at room temperature, the combination of lifting with 10 pounds of force and twisting the filament will pull that filament out of the head. 5) After the filament breaks and comes out if it breaks above the top of the core, the core is now stuck. You can get it out by cutting the filament just above the core. There is a tiny gap. I've done this with a hot exacto blade. I use a flame to heat the exacto blade and some of the exacto. The blade glows meaning it gets to 600C in just a few seconds (it's small) but it also cools quite quickly. Cut only for 1 second and remove the blade before it gets frozen into the filament. Reheat the blade and continue the cut. For me it took two heatings to get through the filament. 90% of the time step 1 is enough If not then usually step 2 is enough. Only one in 10,000 prints should get you to step 4 or 5.

In the top right corner of this page there are 9 dots in a grid. Click that, select support, then in that same top row click "Submit a request" and put your request in there. This is the best way to get a change made to the firmware. All requests are looked at. All of them. Unfortunately the firmware team seems to be behind their task list worse than any other engineering group at Ultimaker *and* I think there have been some layoffs in engineering in the past few weeks. But this is a very valid, important feature to have (ability to change filament on a given layer in the print). Just as important as "pause at layer" so you can insert an embedded nut or other hardware into the middle of your print. If you needed a change to the Cura code it would be easier but this is a firmware issue. If it were me, I would remove all the filaments, power down, disconnect the MS completely and operate the printer without the MS long enough to complete your needed prints.

Without the MS it's easy. Just lift the lever, slide out the current filament, slide in the new filament. I don't have a Material Station so I don't know if this is supported. I guess 2 filaments (left and right core) are not enough?

What operating system are you using?

Well every printer is tested. Something happened between then and now. Shipping can be rough but in this case I suspect the Linux computer board inside the printer just had some kind of infant mortality on a few bits of flash memory and reinstalling the firmware will fix it: Flash memory these days have their own built in controller - really another whole computer - that detects and reroutes bad blocks automatically and also does load leveling. The bad blocks are detected and marked to be never used again but meanwhile you have bad data there causing a bootup crash. If you just reinstall the firmware, the flash will know to avoid the known bad blocks and should be fine going forwards.

I watched 3 youtube videos just now about flyback diodes and this was the best one. The electronic switch is the same kind of switch inside the ultimaker but you are planning to use a physical switch. Probably if you used a huge switch like the light switch for your house - well the sparking will be minor inside and only create small pits if any inside the light switch that can probably last for many thousands of switchings. But this high voltage can be a bit tough on the fan as well. Well in the video the voltage only got up to 40V so obviously a switch rated for 120V or 240V should be fine without the flyback. I'd still add the diode - if you are using a dimmer which is turning the fan on and off many times per second - that's a lot of 40V (every fan is different - could be 200V) spikes which can dammage the dimmer circuit. Note that a dimmer designed for AC powered equipment won't work with 24V DC. You need one designed for your situation. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LXGtE3X2k7Y

No. Not unless it is set way above 24V. Typically Zeners allow current the other direction when the voltage is above say 3V or 7V. 30V zener would be rare. You have to place it directly across the two fan wires. If you put a normal diode one way it will conduct all power and burn out in a second. If you put it in the flyback mode it only conducts current if the power goes negative (which it will when you stop powering the fan - the fan will keep moving the current and the voltage will go negative to quite a high voltage and blow up the circuitry inside the printer or in your case cause a spark across the switch or even a spark somewhere inside the fan - the diode protects all this from happening allowing the current from the fan to dissipate harmlessly back through the fan motor again until air friction uses up that power). Anyway when you put the zener across the fan wires and the first time you put 24V across it, if it's say a 7V zener - it will let all the power through and blow up the zener immediately.

what operating system are you using?

Well that sucks. I'd call the reseller immediately. Pretty much all of them can deal with this kind of thing. However I've heard of similar sounding issues from people on the forum (but usually not on the first day!) and here are some ideas: 1) Unplug the Air Manager and the material Station cables from the S5 so that there is no communication between them and then power up the printer. Definitely give it at least 5 minutes. If it boots up fine then after you go through the initial setup, try turning the printer off and reconnecting the "bundle". This trick has helped many people. 2) Try the unbricking procedure also knows as "firmware recovery" procedure. There are some notes about this here: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360019088780-Firmware-recovery-procedure-for-the-Ultimaker-S3-and-the-Ultimaker-S5-mid-2020- One reason the recovery procedure may help is that the "hard drive" in the S5, which is a solid state drive or a "flash drive", can get a few bits corrupted - especially after a few years of use but also there can be something called "infant mortality" which is just referring to the fact that electronics usually fail in the first few hours or otherwise last quite a long time. One issue with the firmware recovery procedure is that it involves removing the bottom cover and inserting a uSD card - it's not a trivial procedure and you should talk to your reseller about this first.

The process is very different for windows, linux, or Mac. What operating system are you using? In Windows, the installer itself has a long name like: Ultimaker-Cura-5.1.0-win64.exe and is typically found in a "download" folder but you can specify where your browser saved it. Whereas (at least on windows) Cura has a much shorter name like: Cura.exe And is typically in a folder like "c:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 4.8.0\Cura.exe" On Linux there is no installer and you always run the file that ends in ".AppImage". I could be totally wrong and maybe you are indeed running cura and somehow (somehow? ) it tries to reinstall itself? Seems far fetched.

I think you are clicking on the installer? After you have installed cura, make sure to delete the installer (the file you downloaded).

No it's not that. I think it's probably the MB version of the slicer (smart avionics).

Here's the project file. You can try this in your version of Cura and maybe it will rotate the infill. I don't know. It might be just that I rotated your part 90 degrees. I did hit the wrong rotate button by accident at one point. Anyway the part rotation/orientation will be included in this project file. cradle.3mf

There this guy - his nicknames are "burtoogle" and "smart avionics". He is a damn good programmer. He doesn't work for Ultimaker but has contributed some of the Cura features. Some really nice features including lots (all?) of the advanced bridging features. I've met him in real life. We hung out for a few days in The Netherlands (I'm from USA, he's from England). He has his own version of Cura on github. Whenever Ultimaker comes out with a new version of Cura, he merges those changes into his own version. His versions have a "MB". These versions of Cura tend to give me much better prints and do a better job of certain key things. I used one of his versions. I used some default profile for S5 - not sure which one. But the key I think is that I used one of his versions. You can try it. If it doesn't do what mine did then I can send you my exact project file which will have your STL built in, the rotation I placed it in (it could be you just need to rotate it on the bed?), the profile I used, everything. And for an S5. Let me know if you need that. But first just the version of Cura I used: Cura-mb-master-x86_64-20220129-2 You can get it from here: https://github.com/smartavionics/Cura/releases/tag/20220129 For newer versions remove the /tag/... portion so the URL ends with "releases".

Lol. I put 24V across a 12V fan once. It died in about 1/4 second. A bit of smoke came out. It never worked after that. You are lucky that your fans have built in protection for that. I see that kind of thing more often - parts that can be abused quite a bit and are just fine. Switches: Most switches have a max amperage and max voltage rating. If you go over the max voltage the risk is that a spark can arc across the gap. So a switch rated for 240V is fine for lower voltages. However you have to check the amperage also. Most 240V appliances will use less than 20 amps (probably less than 1 amp). So switches are rated for something like 10A or 20A. Those fans have a heavy inductive load and can draw quite a bit of current for their size but any switch rated for 1 amp is probably fine. Still it's smart to add a fly-back diode around any switch. A 12V LED dimmer will probably work but it definitely definitely needs a fly-back diode. These are not needed for LEDs but are needed for any kind of motor (like a fan). There should be a way to find out if the dimmer has a fly-back built in. It might say "appropriate for motors" or "okay for inductive loads" or "safety diode" or "fly-back diode". Without this fly-back diode the voltage across the switch (the on/off switch inside the dimmer) can build up to thousands of volts (but only for a few milliseconds - long enough to destroy the semiconductor transistor inside the dimmer). In fact this inductive load issue is probably what broke the current circuitry inside the printer. If you are curious, google about inductive loads and fly-back diodes. Or you could buy a diode. It needs to be able to handle 24V reverse voltage (not a difficult spec at all).

You can convert a 2 or 2+ to 1.75 but I don't recommend it. It might not print quite as well. The 2+ feeder is fine as is. The 2+ firmware I believe asks for filament diameter. So those 2 things are all set. The conversion kit from 3dsolex.com gives you a new block with smaller hole through it (2mm instead of 3.1mm) and you get teflon parts with smaller hole as well. You can get 1.75mm nozzles from 3dsolex or e3dv6 or any e3dv6 compatible nozzle seller. But the 3mm nozzles work fine - just takes longer to purge the nozzle. and a cold pull might not work (not sure). You can also get a "bowden in a bowden" from 3dsolex where the inner bowden has 2mm I.D. for 1.75mm filament and an O.D. that fits in the 3dsolex "normal 3mm bowden". Plus an adapter that keeps the feeder from eating the inner bowden when retracting. There isn't really any need for this unless maybe you are printing TPU (soft filaments). Anyway you can do it. It works. Quality seems fine to me (I tried it for a few prints) but it might be worse - I don't know.

I'm glad that worked. I didn't have much luck. I got it to rotate the bridging by 90 degrees but I think diagonal is better.