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It's a little hard to tell from the photos (white filament would be better) but I think it is underextruding. Erraticallyk and by a LOT. 1) What speed are you printing at? 2) Please post your project file (do menu "file" "save project") 3) Please post a picture of your feeder with the repaired handle. Maybe you assembled it wrong or it broke? There are quite a few Ender 3 people here including the very helpful @GregValiant. So answer 1,2,3 and he may has some great advice.

If nothing within 10 minutes I'd power cycle it. So if you have an ethernet cable you can put the printer into developer mode and ssh into it. then config the wifi exactly how you want it using conman. conman is a linux utility and you can google about it and there are videos, documents, tutorials, examples, etc. Anything you can do on a PC or Linux or Mac you should be able to do in conman. Extremely versatile. Including vpns, proxy servers, etc. More info here:

1) The most important new feature in Cura version 5 is that it handles thin walls better. So make sure you have Cura 5 2) make sure "print thin walls" is checked. This allows you to print walls twice as thin versus if you don't check that. 3) Look at "horizontal expansion". If you set that to 0.2mm it should expand each side of a "wall" by 0.2mm to make all walls at least 0.4mm and that should be enough that you get something printable. 4) Fans, propellers I have found to be the most difficult thing to 3d print because of the support issue combined with how delicate each blade is. I hope you have a dual printer that can print water soluble support. 6) You can print down to 75% of a nozzle size without much (any?) degradation in quality. So for a 0.4mm nozzle consider setting line width to 0.3mm. Also then you can set horizontal expansion quite a bit smaller as well but eventually the part is too delicate.

I've been hearing about this a lot lately. I'm not sure if Ultimaker understands this yet. But everyone with the problem said it was fixed after a power cycle but still does it semi-randomly. Try a few power cycles and give it a good 5 minutes each time. If after 3 power cycles it still doesn't work, contact your reseller about the "unbricking procedure". Actually I think they call it something else. But it involves using a uSD card, putting a boot image onto it (not a normal file copy) and then removing a cover under the printer and putting the uSD into the circuit board under your printer. There is a document explaining the whole thing. Plus this tells you most of the steps but you have to get the right version from your reseller.

What was the solution? I don't see any solutions.

You can definitely do this. I've done this. Unrelated. So I don't know why you are getting this error. I've seen this error many times and there are many causes. To diagnose the cause I would try a few things: 1) Try running diagnostics on the level sensor - in the maintenance menu somewhere. 2) Watch active leveling when the print starts. Watch the first 2 leveling processes which are different from the rest. I believe it does the right core first? I forget but it levels extra slow the first 2 times and watch what happens. If things are working correctly it will move the bed up very slowly until it touches the nozzle tip. It will keep going but only for about 1/4 second and then it jumps the bed away from the nozzle quickly. Failure modes: a) It stops well before the nozzle touches the glass b) The nozzle touches the glass and it keeps going for another second or two c) same as (b) but - the nozzle may move upwards inside the print core (not good) instead of the bed moving down 3) Make sure the tips of the nozzles are clear of filament. The leveling is done with the nozzles hot to minimize this as a contributor. 4) Make sure the first two leveling events are using both cores and not the same core 2 times. If it uses the same core for the first 2 leveling events that means you have a problem with the switch on the print head that raises and lowers the right core. 5) You can learn a lot about the failure if you look at the log file. You insert a USB flash drive, save the log file. Then search through the log file for "peak" and "Preliminary". I think they are supposed to be different by 1.5mm nominally and if it is not 1.5+/-0.7 then it fails? I forget at the moment but if you publish your results I'll be motivated to look it up. You may have a bad core, or not enough grease on the "fork" in the head or many other issues as well. Maybe your springs are too tight on the bed or too loose in one of the cores.

Which material are you printing with? It's a lot of work to create and test a profile. Each printer needs a different profile. Each nozzle size needs a different profile. So even if you have one filament (say Ninjaflex), creating it for just the UM2+ has potential 4 nozzle sizes times 2 or 3 types of profile (say fine, engineering, draft) is 5 to 12 profiles right there. All of which need to be tested. Then there is the UM3, the S3, the S5, UM2+C each of which can use AA 0.4, AA 0.25, AA 0.8 profiles and profiles that include a different material on the second core. It gets to be insane. Add to this that Ultimaker doesn't create the Marketplace profiles - the companies that sell the filament create those profiles and obscure Cura features is not their expertise. So choose a generic profile that is close and only tweak the temperature (bed and nozzle) if you even do that. What material are you talking about? Maybe I've printed it before.

I would set support to "touching build plate" only (as opposed to "everywhere") and that will avoid any support inside the "straw". You only need support up to 45 degrees. You can set support overhang angle to 45 or play with that and you'll instantly see the red areas on the outside of the straw/cylinder change before you even hit the slice button. I would try it like this but also consider setting cura preferences to uncheck "automatically drop models to the build plate" and set the z value for the "straw" up a bit at 1mm. What I mean is click on the straw, choose the move tool on the left side and type 1mm in the Z box. This raises the straw up so it is supported more consistently over the PLA. This probably isn't necessary. Also make sure you are at 0.1mm layers as now you care much more about layer accuracy than when the straw was vertical. Well unless it doesn't have to be all that round and can be like a decagon.

Attached is a cylinder. You can click on the scale tool, uncheck "uniform scaling" and in the left 3 boxes set the height to 0.3mm. Position it as shown below. You will have to cut it off later so make the "straw" several mm longer than needed to accommodate when you cut the end off. Before you do any of that, under menu preferences/config cura make sure it is unchecked: "Ensure models are kept apart". You only need to do this if you are worried that the ends of the straw will pull up off the print bed and come loose. You could try without these at first. cylinder.stl

What country are you in? How far would you ship it?

I guess I'm giving up. I really don't understand it. And this is easy and fun for me (figuring out puzzles). You're the one doing all the work. But right now I don't have any theories. Maybe I'll think about it again later.

Keep in mind that support blocker is not intuitive. You would think that within the volume of the support blocker... there would be no support. That's not how it works. Instead if you look at your part in PREPARE mode you will see some red areas - those are overhangs. The support blocker only needs to contain the red area that you want to not support.

In the first graph we can see that the green temp oscillates a bit - that isn't great but that's the higher temp PVA which isn't the problem. The 1st graph also shows the orange line which is the PLA temperature and that seems to get more and more stable. Meanwhile in the 3rd graph - the flow - we can see that PLA is being printed for a while and then it is not (presumably the PVA is printing then). I'm surprised to see that the inactive PLA left core is not told to cool down. I guess cura knows that there just isn't time to cool down and reheat the PLA nozzle. So if the first and 3rd graph are in the same time frame then that tells me the problem is not temperature. The PLA temp is quite steady - a little oscillation at first but pretty soon it appears it is stable for many layers.

Yes. Notice it prints 4X faster (only one hour). I would add a cylinder at each end of the straw (add to the cad file) to sit flat on the bed. Like a penny on the end of this straw shown and another on the other end. Then when it's printing the PVA on top of the PLA support it will make long long runs down the length of the PLA trough. Held securely to the print bed at each end of the straw. That way the PVA doesn't need to stick at all to the PLA. It just needs to rest on top. Also having a cylinder shape flat on the glass means it will be rounded which means it will be less likely to warp off the bed. When sideways like this you do want higher bed temps (60C) to avoid the part from warping off the bed at each end. The lifting force is concentrated at the ends of the part. Having it rounded spreads out the forces to more area. More info about this topic in my video about warping parts.

It could be the brand of PLA. Do you have Nylon? PVA and Nylon work quite well together. I'm not 100% certain but I think they will stick much better. Maybe too well? You could design your own wipe tower. Disable the tower and put in two rectangular towers. I recommend they be 1/5th as wide as tall (which means they would be big) but they can be cone shaped which will maintain the "current layer is 1/5th as wide as from here to the bottom of the print" rule. If you *do* do your own wipe tower you need to make damn sure it prints the towers first after a layer change. From my experience you do this by dragging the towers into your project before the main part. You can assign each tower to a different filament by right clicking and assigning the appropriate core. the towers don't need infill. I really don't know but if you want it to cool more you can just make the tower bigger which gives the main part more time to cool. Doubling the layer time from 10 seconds to 20 seconds can really help. I have found that 100% versus 50% sounds the exact same to me on my UM3 - I have to go down to around 20% before the fan even starts to slow. You can experiment with all of those settings while it's printing in the TUNE menu. So you can let it go for a few layers and then switch to a new temp or fan speed. The ONLY reason you need a heated bed is to keep the part on the bed nicely. You can do that without any heat if you use the right surface treatments (like wood glue and water). You want it warm as it prints the first layer so the PLA and PVA get into the micro pores in the glass - otherwise the cold glass cools the filament too fast for it to flow into these holes. Once it is done with the first layer you can lower the heat (for this print). The other advantage of 60C print bed (or hotter) is that this is above the softening temp for PLA and can reduce warping forces that would lift the corners of your print. But that is only a problem for larger prints like say a pack of cigarettes flat on the bed. That large distance from corner to corner creates more lifting forces and warps the corners of the "cigatette pack" off the bed. With 60C print bed the bottom few layers are above softening temp and act like clay and will spread the forces better and the parts stays down. Not a problem for your print. Oh and 40C is plenty hot for the first layer. If you are trying to experiment with cooler air 40C is fine and then turn bed down more after first layer.

Fixed. Thanks. Dealing with SQL databases recently.

Oh. Okay. I didn't look at the chart that compares hardness so I just saw the "D" and assumed it was harder. No I think this is about the limit for any Ultimaker or any bowden printer. Ideally you want a "3mm" filament printer like an ultimaker but with the feeder on the print head and with no spaces for the filament to escape the normal path. There is a foaming filament - I've never tried it. You can control the hardness with the temperature so you can have variable flexibility throughout different locations of the print. When it foams it also expands so you have to lower the flow rate quite a bit when you raise the temp. I've never tried it. I don't know if it ends up more flexible than 85A.

In cura in the top right click marketplace and wait a bit then choose the "plugins" tab and then choose "settings guide". Click "agree". It should say "installed". Then quit and restart cura. Now right click on any setting and choose settings guide and there is very detailed documentation often with diagrams. Also later if you forget a setting you can hover over it for a quick reminder.

The PVA never even gets started does it. The PLA looks okay. PVA does not print well on top of PLA. I've had the exact same problem you have above with the tower. I don't know what I did to fix it. But I definitely got it working. I probably dried the PVA and I may have done the Z calibration (aka leveling) more carefully. I only do manual leveling. active leveling can get confused by any plastic on the nozzle tip. When I do manual leveling, I skip skip skip skip through the "1mm above" part. Then do any sheet of paper for the rear - I adjust a few times up and down and feel the paper carefully - the resistance - I try to memorize that. then I do the front 2 screws pretty quickly and then when doing core #2 I try to get the same Z resistance. You want it perfectly at the same height as the other core. This is critical. I think I get it within about 0.03mm but not sure how to prove that. (not 0.3mm - not 0.1mm but 1/3 better than .1mm). When it starts printing the first time after leveling, I often turn the 3 z screws CCW a bit (as seen from below) to move the bed up just a little. Maybe 1/4 turn which would be 0.5mm/4 or about 0.1mm. This makes the bottom layer squish more. Instead some people set the initial layer flow to 150% or 200%. Squishing harder into the glass makes a big difference. Back to the PVA - have you ever noticed steam coming out of the PVA nozzle? Is it pretty quiet (no crackly, popping boiling sounds) while printing PVA? I would change your model to have a solid - filled in bottom. The bottom of the "straw". Just so it sticks to the glass better. So it has more surface area. Also in the model I would add about 2mm of "brim" for the bottom layer only. Increase the diameter. This will help it be more stable and stick better. You can cut the bottom of the straw off after it is done printing. In summary - this is a difficult print. Again - I'd print it sideways. Printing a vertical straw or a vertical pencil is one of those very difficult prints (there are a couple other's). More difficult than 99% of models that people tend to print. One more thing. Adding wood glue mixed with water to the bed with a paint brush and then drying - this makes a HUGE difference. wood glue is mostly PVA I believe. Here is a video of me mixing and applying (but this won't help your PVA in the tower issue): https://youtu.be/t58-WTxDy-k?t=595

I get that same error (rarely) with cura 4.12 and I just reboot and it goes away.

I did a little reading and I suspect his error will go away if I upgrade from Ubuntu 18 to Ubuntu 20. What version of Ubuntu do you guys have?

One more thing. Disable (uncheck) these: enable acceleration control enable jerk control These might vibrate things a little more. unchecking these is recommended in engineering profiles and this is definitely an engineering kind of object. These two options, when checked, decrease jerk and acceleration which means the printer goes slower on corners or any sharp direction change. The slowdown causes localized over extrusion on said corners. You will get better quality prints with these unchecked. You will also get jerkier vibrations on the printer but I think the difference is pretty small. You will also get ugly "ringing" or shadows when printing for example a large cube with writing on the side. accel and jerk control reduces ringing. That's it's whole purpose. It has to do with the harmonic vibration frequency caused by the weight of the print head (and gantry) and the spring constant of the belts. accel and jerk control enabled is a big part of why quality went down on the UM3 versus UM2. UM3 has a heavier head and to compensate for ringing they added this feature but it hurts dimensional accuracy.

tower distance Printing slow definitely helps quality but slow travel means more leaking. I guess I would put the tower as close as possible to the print. The longer the travel time between the tower and the print, the more leaking that can happen. There is an X and Y position for the tower. Keep both print and tower near the middle of the glass where leveling is more accurate (glass tends to warp downwards at the rear corners and you can get parts that don't stick as well due to less squish on the bottom layer). stringing There shouldn't be any plastic lines between the print and tower. We usually call that "stringing". That's a big flag right there. However I think it's only caused by the PLA and if the quality of the PLA is good enough then it's fine. But if the PLA quality is worse - if you have that "dent" in the PLA then you can make it retract more by checking this for core 2: Limit support Retractions In cura PREVIEW mode, you can click on color scheme just below where it says PREVIEW and click the checkbox that shows travels and light blue are retracting moves and dark blue are non-retracting. It would be better if they were all light blue from tower to part. layer height I'd try 0.2mm layers (versus current 0.1). It's just more solid and you are extruding more and the print will go faster as a side benefit. I think it might improve the quality. not sure. retraction distance it's only retracting 4.5mm on the PVA instead of 6.5mm (which it is doing on the PLA). This is probably supposed to save some time as usually we care less about the quality of the PVA? Not sure. I'd set that to 6.5. You want the exact amount of retraction that removes all pressure in the print head without actually pulling upwards on the filament (thus pulling air into the nozzel potentially). That should be about 6.5mm for most filaments. for shorter bowden tubes - those printers have less retraction. For longer bowden's like the S5 you want longer. I'm not sure what the ideal length is for UM3 but I trust PLA profiles more than PVA. I don't think PVA is any less springy so I would think retraction should be the same. I'm not certain. print speeds I hate speed changes. This causes under or over extrusion. Slow speeds are great. 20mm/sec should be plenty slow enough. But you have some things going at 12mm/sec. And the tower is at 6mm/sec. This is bad as it will then speed up soon after which will have underextrusion for between 2mm and 10mm of what comes next. Which is most of your part! So set all speeds to 20mm. No need to go slower. Or set them all to 15mm/sec but 20mm/sec should be fine. Except travel speeds of course. travel speeds causing vibration Okay this can be a problem. I see those green dots you show in the image you posted above in cura. Those dots create extra vibrations. We can get rid of those. Usually not a problem but with your very skinny part it may become a problem as you get higher off the print bed. So I reduced those drastically by setting your line width to 0.4mm (which is really recommended for a 0.4mm nozzle - Ultimaker has reversed that decision but doesn't want to touch the profiles for good reasons as they might break something for a few rare people) and wall width to 0.8 as you can see here: Alternatively play with cura 5.0 which does a better job of this exact thing. The primary change in Cura 5.0 is that it does a better job of thin walls like this. I think it will even do one pass walls (not certain)! There are a ton of things to play with and I haven't used 5.0 yet but you can reduce of those vibrations. Again - shouldn't be a problem with the bottom 2 cm of your part. I think that with default settings 5.0 will probably do a better job but you can play with line width, wall width, "print thin walls" and "fill gaps between walls" and who knows what new parameters there are.

Doesn't work for me either. When I launch from terminal I get: [15247] Error loading Python lib '/tmp/.mount_UltimaqFOpta/libpython3.10.so.1.0': dlopen: /lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libm.so.6: version `GLIBC_2.29' not found (required by /tmp/.mount_UltimaqFOpta/libpython3.10.so.1.0) They went with a newer version of QT and that gives you newer versions of other libraries as well. I believe this was long overdue.

Check for cracked filament. Sometimes filament gets brittle and cracks in the bowden and when the crack/junction reaches certain spots/transitions it gets stuck in the print head. Test the feeder by fighting it - on the screen menu choose middle menu on left and choose a filament type (top left/top right) then in top right corner click the "..." and choose MOVE. Retract the filament well out of the head then move it forward while fighting it with your other hand behind the printer. The feeders can pull the filament with about 15 pounds of force. Anything over 10 pounds (5kg) is excellent. Try lifting a 10 pound/5kg weight with the same hand to compare forces. Or hold a 10 pounds weight gripping it to the filament below the feeder.