gr5

With infill at 25% and higher you get a different pattern. I recommend 20% to get the other infill pattern. >Temp Control of the Hotend is not really working well This is important to fix. Heat up the hot end and with your fingers push on the wires near the print head and try to get max temp error or try to get the temp to change. The error is usually from the cable from print head to underneath UM. If so, then you can use the extra cable instead (at both ends). Switch to the other cable at the print head and switch underneath the UM also so the new cable is used in place of the old. Sometimes the failure comes from the tiny circuit board on the print head. You might need a new one.

I've tried it and it doesn't help as far as I can tell. You just can't print an overhang in thin air regardless of gravity. For example if you are printing someone's head and are having trouble under their chin, tilting the UM onto it's back doesn't help much. But tilting the print *before* slicing does help of course.

Désolé pour la mauvaise traduction. Le problème est avec la connexion USB. Essayez un autre ordinateur, un câble différent, ou essayer d'obtenir un amplificateur USB / tampon. Aussi parfois le problème est un économiseur d'énergie ou économiseur d'écran.

If you are only worried about bowing (center of bridge sagging) then just tilt your UM onto it's side. The UM will print upside down or in any orientation. But this problem where the head remelts the previous string won't be helped by printing on one's side.

If someone wired the wires to the motor backwards you will get exactly what happened. So... You can either swap the wires to the correct position... Or if you have a UM Original (not the UM2) then you can rebuild marlin here: http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/ And reverse the checkbox for inverting x axis (uncheck it).

I'm not so sure - I know this darlington is a common part to destroy. Probably when the fan is at anything other than 0% or 100%. It may be fine at 100% with 4A (not sure) but if you have the fan at 50% and it switches say 100 times per second then the heat dissipation is pretty high during those switching moments between off and on. But without knowing the exact curve and integrating the wattage over that curve it's difficult to calculate the wattage going into that poor little darlington.

So.... Naz. I watched both videos. It's hard to tell what the issue is. If your first layer is supposed to be .3 or thicker - well it looks like you are too close to the print bed because the first layer in parts is *very* thin. I'd guess .05mm. So if you are asking for .1mm or more thickness but only printing .05, the pressure is going to build up. A lot! And I would expect slipping of the extruder. And occasionally it squirts out the side of the nozzle and makes kind of ugly blobs. So I think you should lower the print bed a tiny bit. But by the time you get to the second or third layer it should start to look pretty good. Because on the second layer now it should be the correct distance and so it only has to deal with the blobs. By the third layer it might be fine. Now in the second video with the blue filament it is clearly slipping. I don't understand the "filament loading procedure" but I do know that at one point Marlin lowers the current to the stepper on purpose so that it will skip steps and not harm the filament. Clearly the feeder can't keep up with the extrusion speed. So I urge you to pay careful attention to the print volume of filament and the temperature. There is a limit to how much any 3d printer can extrude. It's just more obvious now if it is slipping because on the UM2 you can hear it skipping steps (slipping backwards with that click sound). Illuminarti made this great table but it is for a .65mm nozzle on a UM1 but it gives you a good idea of the limits. Basically my UM1 can print about 10 cubic mm at 230C but at 190C much less. I suspect the UM2 needs higher temperatures than the UM1 due to that tiny heat chamber but no one has published tests for a UM2 (which is sooo much easier as you can simply listen for the clicks at different print speeds and temperatures! and then take good notes and publish). Scroll down to the colorful graph: http://www.extrudable.me/2013/04/18/exploring-extrusion-variability-and-limits/

Sounds like a feature. It's probably buried in expert settings somewhere. Also note that you can always download the latest cura but *not* install the latest Marlin. Or you can always install an older version of Marlin. On a PC the Marlin files are located here (or very similar): C:\Program Files (x86)\Cura_13.10\Cura\resources\firmware And you can load the Marlin onto your UM under the "expert" menu.

It's probably just a loose wire. The shipping on the UM2's seems to have been unusually rough and some connectors came off. Take the larger cover off on the bottom of the UM and check all the connectors. I think it's the connector with 2 blue wires in the top in this photo where it says "x-stop".

Quite a few people with UM2's had the fan wire come off in shipping. Perhaps yours was at the verge of coming apart. Reportedly it is VERY easy to fix. The open connector is in the print head. There are photos - make sure you look at posting #17 (posting numbers are on the right side of each posting in it's title bar: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3233-ultimaker-2-major-problems/?p=24105

When I did this last, I used a wrench but I did it gently. At 180C.

I have gotten better results with larger parts. The towers in my experiment were very small so they never get a chance to cool much. So even though the purple filament worked perfectly the white filament I tried never was able to stop stringing. But if you print something larger, like maybe 30X30 mm hollow cube you should get better results. I have printed larger things with white filament at 190C and 20mm/sec and basically zero stringing. You just touch it and the strings come off. No sanding. No bumps or visible spots where the strings were. Also make sure fan is at 100%. Do you have the retraction clip on the extruder? If not either print it or increase the 4.5mm to maybe 5.5? Not sure how much to increase by.

http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/ Both of those are very good but I guess the second one is the definitive. Scroll way way down on the second link.

In slice view there is a slider on the right. Slide it down until you only see a little of the shoulder pads.

That's as expected. The voltage is just floating and when floating you can end up getting *any* random voltage. Although my arduino tends to read around 5 volts (and yours is reading 4.54 volts so this agrees with my experience). There is a small circuit board on the print head that converts the temperature at the thermocouple into voltage where 0 volts is 0 degrees C and 5 volts is 500 degrees C. The Arduino reads 4.54 V which means 454C so it reports MAXTEMP. I get this error if I simply push on the cable on top of my print head hard enough.

regarding double heating... I think he means he sets the temp in the cura print window, then when he starts the print, it goes to the other temperature - the one he set in the settings - before it does the homing procedure.

Oh. Then check out colorFabb maybe. They also make very high quality PLA. Here is a partial list of filament providers: http://reprap.org/wiki/Printing_Material_Suppliers The only place listed that ships 3mm from Hong Kong implies that the filament really is *3mm* which would be a problem: http://3dprinterczar.com/shop/filament/1kg-pla-filament/ You could ask them in an email.

Even if you only did the top 100 color/manufacturer combinations it would cost you something like $3000 worth of filament! There's just too much out there. Also on rare occasions you might get a batch that got some humidity in it but more important there are probably lots of factors we don't know about such as fan speed, air temp, humidity, EXACT nozzle size (to within .01mm) and shape (sometimes the hole isn't quite round), "movement speed" which is another setting in Cura when it is not extruding (fast speeds are good and can break the string). Some people use different fan shrouds (like you) which can change things, and some people's thermocouple seem to be off by as much as 30 degrees (although 90% of them seem accurate to at least 1 degree C). And so on. Even the size of the part. I did tests with a tiny part that barely had time for each layer to cool so the "solid" layer below was warmer than typical.

You can get the bleeding edge version of Marlin (okay actually it's a few months old) built very easily here: http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/ And upload the hex file with Cura expert settings. But the version of Marlin that comes with the UM is fine. I always set the temp to 0 in cura settings which lets you set the temp to whatever you want before starting printing and you that way you also don't have to wait for the temp to settle before starting the print. Once the print gets going you can change the temp as often as you want but careful not to get too close to 170C because if you go lower than that then the extruder won't turn and you will wreck your print. So stay above 180C to avoid going under 170 by accident.

You probably have too many segments. Is the gcode file size larger than typical? You might want to reduce the qty of polygons in the STL. Here are instructions for doing it with Meshlab which is easy, fast, and free: http://www.shapeways.com/blog/archives/226-polygon-count-reduction-with-meshlab.html

Usually 3mm PLA is actually smaller. Similar to when you buy a 2X4 piece of wood it is also smaller than 2X4 inches. However some manufacturers actually do make it at 3mm and this is a problem for Ultimakers (more than most printers) because of the bowden tube. The Bowden tube on the ultimaker can usually take up to around 3.05 or 3.1mm before it jams. Every bowden tube is a little different so yours might be even 3.2mm but probably not. So you would think 3.0mm PLA is fine. But it's not. For one thing, the feeder for the ultimaker squeezes the filament so hard that it is no longer round. The other problem is that filament diameter varies typically by .1mm over the course of a singe reel of filament. So it may be 3.00mm for the first 5 meters and then grow to 3.1mm for the next 5mm. When it jams in your bowden you will get very frustrated and might have trouble getting it out again. After this happens 3 times you will throw it all away and wish you had spent more money. There are many manufacturers of 2.8 to 2.9mm filament. What country do you live in? In USA I recommend printbl.com. Very good quality.

100mm/sec X .2mm layer height X .4mm nozzle width = 8mm^3/Second This is the height times the width times the length-speed. This is the volume of plastic per second. The ultimaker original can print this fast but it is difficult. I don't know about Ultimaker 2.

If you print as cold as you can go - maybe 185 or 190C and super slow: 20mm/sec you should get zero stringing. However you should be able to get a compromise speed faster than that and still get zero or very little stringing. Every color and manufacturer of PLA is different however. Definitely print this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:46157 And read this (first photo): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/ And double check Cura in slice view to make sure it is truly trying to retract. The blue lines show non extruding movement and if there is a little vertical line then that indicates the retraction. There may be bugs in cura where it thinks it is inside your part and doesn't bother doing retraction. Or for other reasons. Also check the advanced retraction settings and force it to *always* retract no matter what.

That's often enough. I think you just need a heated bed :( at this point.

If you have an ulticontroller you can set the flow but only *after* it starts printing. It's in the "tune" menu which suddenly appears when you start printing from SD card. You can do almost anything withoug the UC but this is probably one of them. I don't think there is a flow control through Cura print window. A hack would be to just level the bed a little closer to the nozzle than normal (or spin the Z screw several clicks (maybe 5?) after the print starts). You want lots of juicy, fat, oozing flow. I usually also print the first layer hotter so it flows into the cracks of the tape and also nice and low so it gets pushed into the tape. Never do a second layer on brim as this can cause lifting/warping (a new hot layer on a cold layer will eventually cool and shrink and pull). But it's fine to do bottom layer .3mm.