Nicolinux

Hello cool thread, long time no see Here is one of my latest monster prints. Every triangle piece weights around 120g. My UM2 is a trooper. I've constantly printed at 260° for weeks and it is still alive (lost some PTFE couplers during that time but it was expected). Material is colorFabb XTCF-20. [print=72][/print]

Die Drucker sollten die gleichen Komponenten verbaut haben. Das ist schwierig zu debuggen. Ich könnte mir vorstellen dass der Temperatursensor bei Drucker 4 etwas verrutscht ist und nicht richtig auslesen kann. Oder es wurde fälschlicherweise eine schwächere Heizpatrone eingebaut. Ich bin noch am überlegen wie man das am besten testen kann.

Du könntest das mit dem Feuerzeug sehr vorsichtig behandeln. Nur ganz kurz dran halten. Und am besten vorher mit einem Testteil ausprobieren.

Ok, next thing to check is the filament itself. Does it still have a diameter of 2.85mm? Another idea, check the feeder to see if there aren't any bits of broken or ground filament stuck.

Hi, The problem you describe is most likely due to an partially clogged nozzle. Take a look at this tutorial about the so called "Atomic Method": https://ultimaker.com/en/manuals/149-atomic-method

Wow this sound awesome. Does he have a close-up picture of the hand?

Since your Cura settings might be messed up, you could switch the quick print profiles (menu "Expert") and then switch to full settings. Cura will warn/ask you that this will overwrite any custom settings you made. That's a good way to actually see how those quick print profiles are set.

It depends on the Cura version. In my Cura (15.04.4) the shell thickness for the "high quality" setting is set to 0.9!! And infill speed is still at 80mm/s which is way too high if you print at the default temp of 210°

UPDATE They responded to my question on the comparison (on Youtube). Here is the answer:

Um welche Ultimaker 2 handelt es sich genau (UM2+ oder UM2, Extended?) und wann wurden diese gekauft?

Hi, I think this feature has been requested several times. I guess it is just quite hard to implement properly. But I sure do miss it from time to time. Hopefully the new Cura version will support it at some point. In the mean time here is a workaround. You could load your .stl file in Meshmixer and add support struts there. Then export the new .stl file and slice it with Cura. Here is a handy tutorial: link.

Hi, I have an interesting problem and I'd need your opinion. These two objects have been printed with similar print settings. Yet the first one has a weird surface. Looks like some layers are retracted inwards or missing. Not sure if this is under extrusion. I've run the cylinder test and it came out perfectly (same filament): I noticed this behavior on very fine prints with curved surfaces before. I can't say when it appeared first but it might coincide with the switch to the Olsson Block. What do you think?

Looking at the vide I'd say the default speed setting in Cura was way too high for that model. The head moves very fast so I assume Simplify3D just prints way slower...

Ich weiss nicht genau welches Geräusch du meinst. Ich höre ein "tok" zwischendurch und das hört sich verdächtig danach an als ob der Feeder-Motor zurückspringt wegen zu hohem Druck im Druckkopf. Ansonsten schau dir in den Ecken die Zahnriemen an ob sie auch richtig auf den Zahnrädern aufliegen. Bei mir war ein Plastik-Abstandshalter nicht lang genug und das brachte das Zahnriemen dazu nicht gerade zu laufen.

Hm, now that you mention it... I have a clip that holds the bowden in place which is fairly thick. This means the bowden presses with a lot of force against the coupler. Thanks for the idea, I will print a thinner clip.

Thanks Robert. I was able to get rid of the problem by swapping the bowden tube. I think this happens because the hole is not centered in the tube. Check out the picture, the hole is a bit too far up north.

Ok, to answer my question from before - I've changed the bowden tube and now the filament passes the PTFE coupler entry point without problems. At least one problem is gone...

Nice, ok. I'll keep it in mind. Alright, in the process of debugging this issue, I dusted off the side fans too (with the vacuum cleaner) and broke a wire from one fan. Re-soldered it (almost SMD style - man those things are tiny). Since I took the head apart three times today, now there's something new. Usually when I re-assemble it and push the filament in by hand (Robert's feeder is open), I can push it all the way into the head until the filament hits the spot where the nozzle tapers off. Now I can't push the filament past the entry point into the PTFE coupler. If I start a print the motor forces the filament through and at some point I hear a "tok" and it jumps past the PTFE entry point. This is new. When I take out the bowden tube and push the filament in from the top (for atomic cleaning for example), then it passes the PTFE coupler without problems. The bowden looks clean and is not deformed at the end. The only thing I remember related to this behavior is that there was some resistance when the filament passed the PTFE entry point. I fiddled with the metal plates and thought that they are not aligned well, but that's not the case either. Maybe this is a clue, although I don't know what causes it.

@gr5: Ok, nice - I didn't know about the new 3dsolex couplers. @Labern: I think that might be it. A long time ago I swapped the default 3rd fan (which is super loud) with this one: MC25100V2-000U-A99 (air flow: 3.0 CFM which is around 5m^3/h). I don't know how much air volume the default 3rd fan can move but I just made a test and held my hand against it. And damn the default noisy fan seems to be "stronger". So this means all this time I might have shortened the lifespan of those PTFE couplers because of the stupid fan :( I was not able to find a better/stronger fan at this size. Where does UM get them from?

Hm when I think about it, the right distance between the two metal plates should be already set when they are screwed together. So when I leave out the spring (or spring replacement) and just screw the two plates together, the distance amounts to 17.14mm Does this sound right?

Hey Robert, could you be so naughty and find out the size of that spacer? I am sure with my mad modeling skills, I could design and print my own

Veteran Blush (anime style) The temp sensor is brand new and I also performed PID Autotune. I didn't notice anything unusual with the filament. The thing is - what is the right pressure? I printed the spring replacement and then screw in the metal collet a lot so there was barely any distance between the collet and the coupler. I did this in order to lessen the pressure on the coupler enforced by the spring replacement. Not sure what to do now. I have a new coupler. Try it with the spring replacement and screw it in to barely have any pressure or just use the regular spring?

Btw. the server was down for a bit last night and now the forum loads way faster. Maybe the hardware was upgraded or a sneaky new version was deployed?

Guys, we're getting off topic. Here is a picture of the failed coupler. I cut it up and held it in a weird way in order to visualize the dent.