Dim3nsioneer

Next one who is going to like TweakAtZ 3.3....

This is heading into an interesting direction... This morning, I upgraded to FW 14.09.1. Of course the new firmware somehow has overwritten my PID settings for the hotend. The temperature was oscillating very badly (+/-13°C !). And the print just consisted of heavy rings... there was a clear correlation between the temperature and the banding. But you know, sometimes it has to get worse before it will get better. Next thing was of course the PID autotune procedure. Having set the new coefficients temperature fluctuations were down to +/-1°C, i.e. the present temperature was switching between 209°C and 210°C for a target temperature of 210°C. And this is the result for a 195°C print at 31mm/s: (this time the picture was taken with my cell phone; I hope it's better visible now, I'm not a photographer... :wacko: ) As you can see, banding is still there, but it's less pronounced. I'm really thinking about the origin of the effect. If it is caused by temperature fluctuations then this filament is extreeeeeeemly sensitive to them...).

Luckily, you own an open source printer... : https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/tree/master/1309_PTFE_Isolator_Coupler_3.2_mm_%28x1%29

Hmmm... there is not much I fear (maybe there is a tutorial somewhere I don't know of). You need a terminal connection to the printer. You may look at http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code and check the commands M303 and M301/M304. I used Printrun/Pronterface as terminal app.

I had +/-13°C with the standard PID settings after upgrading to Firmware 14.09.1. After using the PID autotune feature and setting the PID factors accordingly I got +/-1°C.

A small teaser for the upcoming TweakAtZ 3.3...

Printbl is not anymore reseller of Diamond Age. You have to order directly.

Please stop staring at the (last) picture before you turn blind... :eek: I'll try to do some sharper ones later. The print was made with 0.1mm layer height. I also did prints with 0.15mm and 0.2mm; they look very similar. I can also upload an image of them. I think the color difference comes from the photo. I mainly care about the thicker/thinner issue because it's this effect which ruins prints with vertical walls. Until now I considered the banding to be completely irregular but as you see some repeating pattern I have to check the prints again directly.

Bei FreeCAD in der Version 0.14 gibt es eine Inkompatibilität mit Cura. Ich habe mal eine Zeit lang mit Version 0.13 gearbeitet, es dann aber wegen der vielen Abstürze und extrem langsamen Aufbau nicht mehr benutzt. Code-Freaks verwenden openSCAD. Ansonsten ist DesignSpark Mechanical empfohlen. Viele benutzen auch Blender; das braucht aber so seine Einarbeitungszeit.

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7170-cura-multi-threading-what-is-and-whats-next/

It's the other island (NZL)... But I agree with gr5: Diamond Age PLA is the best you can get IMHO. And shipment fees are reasonable from New Zealand to Australia I think.

Did you recheck the image? I uploaded it in full resolution. I think it's quite visible a the sides that it's not just a different color but different radial positions of the layers. Yes, I know the effect from my UMO (I got rid of it when mounting a ball screw on the z axis). I actually don't like the stock z nut of the UM2 as the thread is quite short. Any uncertainties in production lead likely to significant play (the original nut had about 1mm play IN EACH DIRECTION(!), the replacement has not). At the moment I don't know how sensitive this special filament is to temperature fluctuations. I will do some test about this within the next few days. I just saw that Daid did some changes to the PID code in firmware 14.09.1. I still have 14.07 installed. I will upgrade it. btw: How stable is the temperature on your UM2? I recently had to remount the x and y motors to an exchange of the 5/10/25mm spacers on both axes (the belts were rubbing at the pulleys and the black particles were ruining some prints). As I know how important the tension of the belts is, I made sure the short ones are tight. The long ones have their automatic tensioners anyway on the UM2. Every belt is now running smoothly.

Da von 'abschneiden' die Rede ist, machen halt negative Werte nicht so Sinn... Um ein Objekt in die Luft zu setzen gibt es aber ein Plugin (siehe auf der Cura Plugin Seite der Ultimaker Wiki).

Versuch's mal mit der AMD-Seite...

Scheint so, dass bei Dir der Fall ähnlich liegt (siehe drittletzte Zeile). Also am besten Grafikkartentreiber aktualisieren.

2 Fragen: - läuft der Python-Prozess noch? - was sagt die Datei output.txt (am besten zuerst löschen, dann Cura starten, sonst ist da viel zuviel Unnötiges drin)?

I did a test print at the front left corner. Looked very much the same as in the center... but was worth trying...

I printed XT red on my UMO and had to go to at least 250°C with 30mm/s. For 50mm/s I had to go to 260°C. It seems to me that this material likes it hot. And we all know that the Teflon piece doesn't... :sad: I've set my UM2 to 250mm/s travel speed and it works perfect.

You're definitively going to like the next version... That's a problem of the current Cura GUI. IMHO, it should be changed to the numbering used in the GCODE. However, it is maybe not the best thing to change it in the old GUI but rather when changing to the PU edition. Which version of TweakAtZ are you using? V3.2 takes care of this issue and resets the speed to 100% at the end of the print.

Sagen wir es mal so: Manchmal vergesse ich komplett, dass der Robert-Feeder an meinem UM2 nicht Standard ist. Weil für mich ist er es. Der UM-Feeder hat bei mir keine Woche überlebt. Man kann sich das Leben schwer machen - oder den Robert-Feeder montieren...

Hi Kuno Welcome to the Ultimaker forum. Where in Switzerland are you located? The teflon insulator might be indeed a good add-on (hopefully you'll never need it). Personally, I don't see an immediate necessity for a spare nozzle but it's certainly not the most useless part too. Some people had issues with their PT100 sensors in the hotend. Are you aware that when printing ABS your printer should be located at a very well ventilated place? ABS emits some where unhealthy fumes... the alternative would be PET-derivatives such as Colorfabb XT. Sorry for the question, do you really mean soft PLA or do you mean flexible (rubber-like) PLA? The latter is very tricky to print with a Bowden extruder printer such as the Ultimaker and not something you might want to start with. Apropos filament: If you buy (one of) the best machine(s), you're maybe also interested in the best PLA? Have a look at http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5712-pla-von-diamondage-plastics-sammelbestellung-schweiz/...

It looks as if Daid's big data fix caused some unwanted side-effects... I'll leave that generously to him...

Does output.txt have 0kb? And did you close Cura? Including some maybe still running Python task?

Nope, not yet. Good idea! Thanks!

@pm_dude: Everything is perfectly oiled as a Bodybuilder's body... I can move the print head with my small finger...should be ok. I even replaced the grease on the z axis. It has definitively something to do with the z axis the structure are actually rings and not micro-shifted layers. I'm now waiting for this anti-backlash nut...I really don't like whatthe stock nut looks like btw: I already tried it with some additional weight...didn't help. @gr5: What do you mean by 'better'? Higher resolution? Yes I can do that... but it's not blurred or something, isn't it? And as mentioned some posts above I already adjusted the PID settings. Temperature is stable up to 1-2°C. And it's not just a change in color but really rings with different radii.