Dim3nsioneer

Try reducing the print speed...

This is now getting interesting... I reduced the current of the z motor to 900mA. Apart from the z axis being much more quiet the banding pattern changed! It became much more regular than before at a higher banding frequency: Then I remembered the suggestion by pm_dude to print it at different locations on the print bed and I decided to do a print (still with 900mA for the z axis) as far at the back as possible (centered in the x-direction). And this is the astonishing result: The banding is almost gone... :blink: As I cannot (and don't want to!) print everything at the back of the print bed I'm currently thinking about the origin: - Vibrations? Why do they occur so regularly on a print at the center of the print bed? Do I hit a resonance? - Can I exclude an issue with the z motor and the lead screw? (because it would show up the same way independent of the position on the print bed) - Some excentricity of the x/y-rods or the pulley bores? But shouldn't the orientation of all those be the same for every layer? Other thoughts are highly welcome... B)

Do you mean grumpy-Nallath? :lol: @Nallath: no offense...! @UltiArjan: Thanks for the picture!

@PeterV: Please send a private message to http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/user/423-sandervg/. He is the community manager at Ultimaker and collects information about the case comming from people here in the forum. Thanks.

Check your Bowden tube for small black particles. If you find any of them they come most likely from the feeder case. It might help to replace the feeder with a printed one.

It's surprising where Cura sometimes decides to stop a line, travel somewhere else, print there and then travel back and continue the line... especially with infill... it can be in the middle of a wall.

Imagine you put the weight on top of the wooden z stage, it would have gone down even more. If you put weight on the z stage, you should do it in between the z bars: This ist significantly easier with the HBK z stage (just put it below the cover). If you really see a difference in the print quality you may want to check if all the screws of the z stage are tightened reasonably. The blobs are artefacts from the strong stringing you have. Try to reduce the printing temperature and speed. The z hop feature with two times the layer height might also improve the situation. Make sure the nozzle is clean on the outside. And last but not least check your model in the layer view of Cura if it has some weird slicing results at the spots in question. If it has, it's a defect of the model.

I have the banding problem on my UM2 which is the origin of the HBK. I don't know exactly what you mean with the first post being written in 2013. If you mean the link in the first post of my banding thread, it's a thread on the general nature of horizontal banding which was also a problem sometimes on the UMOs.

Well, I was kind of close... :blink: Thanks for the correction... B)

A good trick is to move the object to the side so it doesn't fit to the print area, change the settings and then put it back. Like that it's less likely that Cura hangs up itself.

Which Cura version do you use? There has been an issue with big data files in the past but this was addressed in V14.09.

For the case you don't get the BedTempAtZ plugin running with the present Cura version, you might use the TweakAtZ plugin which also offers to change the bed temperature at a certain height.

Hmmm...I was actually thinking of that as well. Unfortunately it would require another input box and there are plenty of them already...

The problem is not completely unknown with this heated bed: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6907-horizontal-banding-on-um2/ Things you may check: - Does the z stage run up and down smoothly? - Does the z nut have some significant play? - Does the fan blow directly onto the nozzle? - What do the walls look like when printed without fan? - How stable is the nozzle temperature (some colors, including white, are more sensitive to the temperature). - Compare the layers: do some show effects of under- or over-extrusion?

Habe verstanden. Du möchtest das nächste Mal etwas mehr bezahlen...

Die meisten Pulleys sind ohnehin mit einem Distanzring à 5/10/25mm vom Lager entfernt fixiert. Der Distanzhalter in meinem Bild ist nun einfach 26mm statt 25mm lang. Das bewirkt, dass der hintere Riemen schön auf dem Pulley läuft ohne sich an dessen Kante zu reiben und damit das unsägliche Gebrösel zu verursachen. Die genaue Länge der Distanzhalter muss aber individuell einjustiert werden.

Klar gibt's die Mengenrabatte. Die sind aber erst für ein paar mehr als 5 Rollen... Aber davon profitieren ja die Sammel-Besteller... Anders wäre es ehrlich gesagt gar nicht möglich, das Filament über diese Transportdistanz auf einen vergleichbaren Preis zu Faberdashery oder Colorfabb zu bringen.

Ist mir gerade eingefallen, dass ich ja mal ein Bild von einem der Distanzhalter versprochen habe. Also es geht um das rote Teil auf der Achse hinten in der Mitte gleich vor dem Kugellager:

Who ever will be at this event: The rest of us wants a GROUP SELFIE posted here in the forum!!! Please... B)

I'm not even completely sure that 3 months of warranty is legal in the European Union the laws of which say that electronic consumer devices have to have a 2 years warranty. Maybe someone from UM could write here why they think it is valid in this case.

Ah, sorry, there was a misunderstanding from my side... I didn't realise you loose all configuration (as Cura never crashes on my computer :-P ). You already mentioned that you can get back 90% of the configuration by loading a standard saved config. For the remaining 10%: I assume you're printing directly over USB, right? Then you can save the gcode by right-clicking onto the printer icon. In the case of a crash you can reload the settings from this gcode file. That might be the best option for you until you fixed the origin for the crashes.

One would have to introduce an auto-save for the profile. This means that if you change some settings to test the result these changes are saved to the profile as well. I'm pretty sure I don't want this (sorry!).

Der Spareffekt ist sehr klein. Mal ohne Versand um die halbe Welt gerechnet sind es gerade mal 10 NZD. Ich sehe den Vorteil darin, dass man lange Zeit nicht mühsam abschätzen muss, ob denn das Filament noch für den aktuellen Print reicht oder nicht und dass das Ganze auf einer Spule ist und damit nicht verheddern kann. Ich persönlich halte die Lagerung von Qualitätsfilament für unproblematisch solange man für kühle und trockene Lagerbedingungen sorgt. Natürlich ist die Spule normalerweise in einem Plastiksack drin.

Wahrscheinlich geht es auch ohne Kugellager. Aber die Spindel des Rollenhalters muss den richtigen Durchmesser haben. Aber dafür hat man ja einen 3D-Drucker... Die Perspektive des Fotos täuscht übrigens: Die Rolle ist etwa 20-25cm im Durchmesser und 20cm breit.

Falls der Print mal etwas grösser werden soll: Diamond Age Solutions liefert auch auf 500m und 750m Spulen. Das hier ist erst die 500m-Spule in weiss (im Vergleich hinten eine fast noch vollständige 100m-Rolle 'Bright Orange'): :eek: Da ist wohl ein neuer Rollenhalter fällig...