Dim3nsioneer

OK, the test is running right now. I can tell it looks the same as with proper PID settings (means it shows no banding). However, the machine made an awful noise when travelling with 250mm/s (it sound really bad, like a mixture of screeching and motor skipping). So it seems there is indeed some scheduling issue. The FCC/CE stuff means PID-heating of the bed will not make it into the default firmware again, right? One should certainly not run the UM2 like this on the nightstand... Apart from violating these rules, is there any risk for the hardware? edit: I bit later in the print I have to say that there is a very slight banding compared to the proper-PID version but not as pronounced as with the bang-bang mode.

Die Elektronikkühlung beim UMO mit Axiallüfter zu realisieren ohne saug- UND blasseitig für geringen Strömungswiderstand zu sorgen ist wie einen Ultimaker mit einer 9V-Batterie betreiben zu wollen... :rolleyes: (der Arduino würde ja laufen, aber sonst ginge nicht so viel...)

I'll have a look into this... can you please give me some details about your configuration (what machine do you have? It would be nice if you could put this info in your profile)?

I think a new version of Cura is imminent. I expect that Ultimaker (Daid) will deliver a corrected firmware with this new Cura version if there is nothing serious which speaks against re-activating the PID mode for the bed. Posting my hex file (which also includes some other - experimental - changes) is therefore not the best thing I could do...

Hallo zusammen Ich bin mir gerade etwas am Überlegen, wann eine nächste Sammelbestellung Sinn machen würde. Falls das Filament auf Weihnachten hier sein sollte, dann müsste man in allerspätestens einem Monat bestellen können. Ansonsten wäre allenfalls im Januar ein guter Zeitpunkt. Ihr müsstet dann halt eher (Oster-)Eier statt (Weihnachts-)Kugeln damit drucken... Ich wäre also für ein paar Feedbacks mit Zeitangabe empfänglich; gerne auch per PM.

Open the expert settings and disable any 'fix horrible' options... you may check the result before printing with the layer view in Cura (icon on the top left). You may also check the integrity of the model with the x-ray view. If anything is shown in red there then the model has a defect.

OK, the case seems to be almost solved now. Not by me but by umdeviljur (see http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6613-firmware-surface-kwality-bug-1407-vs-1403/, especially post no. 37). On the left you can see the result with the standard heating settings for the UM2 bed (bang-bang mode) as it is in firmware 14.09.1. On the left you can see the result with PID heating mode enabled for the bed (as it was in previous firmware versions before April 2014). There are a few banding lines left but about 90% of the banding is gone now. I hope to get rid of the last few lines with the anti-backlash nut I will receive tomorrow. And this is how I explain it to myself (and to anyone else who might be interested to read it... ): When the bed is heating, thermal convection on the partially hollow inside is increased (warm air rising). This leads to additional heat transfer from the freshly deposited material to the air (as the transfer rate depends on the air speed; cf. pillowing). Stronger cooling on the inside leads to an increase 'rubber band effect'. Et voilà: banding if the heating happens in bang-bang mode. It's there on all the colors but light blue PLA seems to be the most sensitive to even minor differences in heating/cooling. But for the moment this feels just a bit like early Christmas... :lol: Yeah!

Hey undeviljur Are you aware that you and your brother made my day!?! I'm fighting for quite some time with a very similar issue: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6907-horizontal-banding-on-um2/ After having read your post above, I immediately switched the PID mode of the heated bed on again on my UM2. And this is the result: On the left is a print done previously in bed bangbang mode. On the right is a print done today in bed PID mode (after running the PID autotune feature for the bed). Obviously I mainly had the same issue. There are a few banding lines left but that's on a level I can live with it. @undeviljur: Unfortunately I can only give one like to your post. You would deserve at least 10. Thanks a lot! @Daid: Has the disabling of the PID mode for the bed be done accidentally or was there a physical reason for it?

In addition to what gr5 just wrote, be aware that there are different types of stepper drivers, even from Pololu. The Electronics Build Guide on the Ultimaker Wiki showed how to deal with the different types. Unfortunately, the Wiki is not available at the time being. I put a static copy of the https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15273556/Ultimaker/UMWiki/Electronics%20build%20guide%20-%20Ultimaker%20Wiki.htm onto my Dropbox account.

Im Gegenuhrzeigersinn; Du musst die Schraube quasi herausdrehen...das schiebt dann den Indikator im Gehäuse nach unten.

Diamond Age Solutions in NZL has a 'tactical matt black'. It is quite difficult to print and the difference to standard black concerning gloss is not dramatically. What about using standard colors and sanding it?

Leute, bitte bedenkt, dass Axiallüfter eine deutlich geringere Druckerhöhung haben als Radiallüfter. Wenn Ihr also ein Design verwendet, das den Strömungsquerschnitt stark begrenzt und hohen Widerstand bietet, dann benötigt Ihr zwingend einen Radiallüfter.

It seems official now that I 'm not young anymore as I can't this high pitch from my 8825s... :-(

You guys don't get it, umm? Skint is working for Skynet... :eek: @Skint: it doesn't sound as if you were very surprised...

You could take your block and scale the z dimension to 0.1mm using the scale feature in Cura.

Just load it in Cura... ;-)

Maybe it's worth to print a single layer and to measure its thickness afterwards...

What's the thickness of your first layer (advanced settings tab in Cura)? I guess 0.3mm...

Falls Du noch weitere Motive hast, kann Dir dieser Link hier vielleicht auch weiterhelfen: http://www.cookiecaster.com

If a device is blinking red and has no power anymore this usually means "don't turn it on again". I strongly recommend to contact Ultimaker support, best by phone.

As some of you may have found out the Ultimaker Wiki is currently not available. Ultimaker is working on the problem, see http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/8011-ultimaker-wiki-cura-plugins/&do=findComment&comment=74837. Until a solution is found, I decided to provide a static copy of the Wiki pages for the two plugins I'm currently supporting: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15273556/Ultimaker/UMWiki-Pluginpages/CuraPlugin%20%20TweaktAtZ%20-%20Ultimaker%20Wiki.htm https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15273556/Ultimaker/UMWiki-Pluginpages/CuraPlugin%20%20RetractWhileCombing%20-%20Ultimaker%20Wiki.htm

Until a solution is found, I provide a static copy of the Wiki pages of the plugins I'm currently supporting on my Dropbox account: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15273556/Ultimaker/UMWiki-Pluginpages/CuraPlugin%20%20TweaktAtZ%20-%20Ultimaker%20Wiki.htm https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15273556/Ultimaker/UMWiki-Pluginpages/CuraPlugin%20%20RetractWhileCombing%20-%20Ultimaker%20Wiki.htm I hope this is ok for everybody (including Ultimaker HQ)... :?:

I just did the change from 1/8- to 1/16-stepping on my UM2. The noise is reduced significantly... it's now 'zeeeeeeeeee' instead of 'ZEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE' However, Ultimaker should never apply for a electronics accessibility prize for the UM2... :sad: It took me about two minutes to get two jumpers out of the UMO electronics (as I don't need them there and had no spares) but about 20 minutes to get one of them into the socket on the Ultiboard 2.1.

Come on - admit it - you were trying to print directly onto your glass desk... :shock: Seriously: Glad to read nobody was hurt... :-P

Aha... might be a problem with the ini files. I actually renamed the version folder within the .Cura folder of my user account from 14.10RC4 to 14.10RC5 before starting Cura 14.10RC5 the first time...