Dim3nsioneer

There should be a third option 'Customize'...

What about 14.10RC3? And what does output.txt say (after closing Cura, and maybe deleting output.txt before opening Cura)?

Some intermediate update. As gr5 remarked two days ago the prints looked more and more underextruded when temperature was increased. Diamond Age Solutions confirmed that their filament usually has to be printed rather cool but some colors even cooler or at a higher flow. Indeed I got rid of the 'underextrusion' by printing with the same settings but 195°C at 31mm/s: (it's now the 'pure' banding) The really remarkable thing was, that I could achieve the same quality at 210°C with 0.2mm layer height instead of 0.1mm.

Is this (overwriting the scaling factor in the settings) a desired behavior for you? Or would you prefer that TweakAtZ would effectively change the volume amounts for each line drawn? The factor would remain untouched and would effect the print in addition to the plugin. The reason why I ask is the fact that I'm currently working on TweakAtZ V3.3... :ph34r:

@pm_dude: Your little essay sound a bit like Jack Sparrow - I'm sorry - Captain Jack Sparrow would explain it... :lol: But you're right. Fortunately we know that the flow setting changes the volume and not the diameter...

@Nicolinux: If someone is printing very hot it might drop onto the finished print -> not funny. But a standard retraction would be enough IMHO. @gr5: Thought of that too. But does the motor have the strength to do a cold pull or would it just result in skipping?

It's 20mm: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin/blob/7e5d0013cd0c36b09aad8a0edaa6a456e3cb2c72/Marlin/Configuration.h#L572

Some of the prints remind me of Rorschach tests some others of UM2 underextrusion tests...

IMHO it's mainly material-dependent. I have it as well with Diamond Age PLA. But for some colors there are just a very few hairs while for other colors it's covered below a fur while printing the same object with the same gcode and the very same settings on the UM2. And I keep the nozzle clean all the time; inside and outside!

Hmmm... configWizard.py:377 is not yet completely correct IMHO. I would rather write "Andere (z.B. RepRap, MakerBot)" I haven't checked the entries from that point on. Maybe you want to double-check them by yourself?

UM2: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin/blob/7b301c1dcbbfad96d6991b87d549296580de852e/Marlin/UltiLCD2_menu_print.cpp#L377 UMO:https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/blob/058e4465313191bf769e00a347ceccb4fbd1112c/Marlin/Marlin_main.cpp#L2813

Sieht doch sehr vernünftig aus. Die verschiedenen Farben waren alle PLA oder war da auch ABS, PET, XT oder etwas in der Art dabei? Falls Du eine Lupe zur Hand hast, würde ich mal den Rand der Extruderdüse etwas genauer nach gröberen Kratzer o.ä. untersuchen.

@Solonari: Do you have the RetractWhileCombing plugin activated for the first layer?

You don't know what's yet to come...

Ohne Probleme? Das halte ich eher für ein Gerücht... :???: Alleine schon die Retraction eines 1.75mm-Filaments in einem 3mm Bowden Schlauch ist ein Alptraum....das faltet sich ja nahezu... edit: Um Missverständnisse auszuschliessen: Gemeint ist 1.75mm Filament in einem 3mm-Printer...

To find a topic in this forum, Google is the best chance. Forget about the internal search function, it's just ####.

Go to the 'Plugin' tab in Cura, select the PauseAtZ plugin and press the button with the down arrow... done! Well, you have to adjust the value for the height...

@arapp: This is very unfortunate. Did you check the settings for the motor current yet?

Did you try to print it with higher temperatures than standard PLA? What if you switch off the fan completely?

Hallo brabel, willkommen im Forum! Nur so der Vollständigkeit halber: Die Einstellungen sind exakt die gleichen? V.a. die Temperatur? Welche Materialien hast Du in der Zwischenzeit so gedruckt?

If the white indicator on the feeder is on top change it to a middle position. Remove the filament and check the Bowden tube for a very fine strand (hardly visible). If there is one, remove it.

Thank you! btw: Shouldn't it be named 14.10 RC2?

The UM2 expects the string ';FLAVOR:UltiGCode' in the first or the second line of the file. Otherwise the UM2 assumes RepRap-flavor and displays a warning that the gcode is overriding machine presets. But there is also the possibility to run RepRap flavor with volumetric E-values (choose volumetric RepRap flavor in Cura). I recommend http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code as a great source for which codes should be used and which not. A special list for the codes on the UM2 can be found https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin (you have to scroll down).

'Shutting up' would be the worst thing you could do... :eek: It's always very helpful to have unbiased meanings and new ideas for solving complex issues. Although I have not enough 'grape' filament to test it I'm pretty sure it will look much better. I made a print with 'Cherry Red' on the UM1 to compare with the print posted above and it looks quite perfect. So it's really a question of the color (the master batch used). You can also see in the first post that it is much more pronounced with pastel colors. But I agree with you. It looks more and more like underextrusion the higher the print temperature is. I can assure you I just changed the temperature at the UM2 and used exactly the same gcode and the same settings for everything else. btw: I'm not sure how exact the nozzle temperature is on my UM2. I had several cases which indicate that the actual temperature might be higher than the value measured. However most of the prints don't show clear evidence for a too high temeperature. I'll have to test this one day. Not exactly. I have the impression the pattern is not regular. And if you look closely you can see the same effect also on the other two prints. It's just superimposed by this underextrusion-looking-effect. So I tried a print with double the speed. And it really got worse. But I have to look at it closer to see if the banding also got worse or if there are just more irregularities due to additional vibrations. But it's good to know settings which makes it worse. Like this it's easier to see if certain actions taken show an effect. There is one part which I would exclude as origin at the moment and this is the lead screw. If there is something wrong with the thread the banding should show the same pattern for every print, right? I'll test a special anti-backlash-nut for the lead screw but it has yet to arrive.

This is just a small update. I printed the same model on my UMO yesterday using as similar settings as possible. This means: print speed 31mm/s (I wrote a wrong number yesterday which I corrected in the post above), T0=210°C, Tb=60°C. Left: UMO, Right: UM2: I don't know where the holes on the UMO print come from; it might be an artefact from printing XT before that print; I'm investigating at the moment. However, the important thing is, that there are some fluctuations in the vertical surface but no real banding as on the UM2. So this test gives an idea how much the diameter fluctuation of the filament or some other filament related reason can influence the print quality. btw: I have a ball screw on the z axis of my UMO. I'm currently printing the hbc-testprint on the UM2 again with 230°C. It's just a few mm printed but I can already say that the banding is well visible. I'll post a picture when it is finished. However, I think it is not completely wrong to see some correlation between temperature, speed and print quality. gr5's remark triggered some thought I want to test: How much does the temperature of the already deposited material at the time of the next layer being printed influence the quality? I'll test this by speeding up the print by a factor of two. edit: This is the result of the temperature variation: 210°C, 220°C, 230°C (from left to right). It's obviously not the way to go as Diamond Age PLA likes it rather cool than hot.