tommyph1208

Do you actually have to disable it? I would imagine that a tiny amount of retraction would still work here, just to release preassure from the nozzle chamber...

You should be able to find bearings from many different sources, and they shouldn't be too expensive either... I have these from China eg.,though it might take just as long to get those as it would to get some from UM Sure it sucks that UM forgot to put them in your kit (they are getting sloppy on their old days), but I would forget about reimbursement, its such a small expense, and probably within your UM lifetime, you'll run in to many times of ordering upgrades, spares etc. from a number of places... With any luck, you´ll get better bearings than the stock UM ones, and be all the better off for it

As you can somewhat gather from the above comments... The open source nature of the UM2, is still a concept that I do not believe really works in practice... Sure all the schematics, drawings etc. are publicly available, but as soon as it gets more complex than cutting a frame or bending a piece of sheet metal, most "common people" have to give up... Really, I don't think the self sourced and build UM2s is something thats going to happen before China starts producing the copy parts (and complete machines) and putting them on ebay. I would say (and it is also basically what is stated in the above posts), that you are better off building, what would in practice be, a UM1... Since you would be making it yourself, you have all the possibilities in the world to customize it, use alternative materials and parts, make it better, prettier etc. The forums here have a ton of info on customizing the UM1, that are equally applicable to a self sourced build-from-scratch machine... Just have a read through all the threads in the "Modifications and Hacks" section, here on the forum.

So do you run a heated bed directly from the board?

Its a tough buisness... I only just got started (Graduated last year), but find it very hard to find reliable permanent work... Iv'e done alot of project stuff, 3 weeks here, 2 months there...

I'll bite Hello Wayne and Marie, added you both... Tommy from Denmark... Marie, I'm in the games industry as well, no artistic flair though, I do game programming mostly...

Here are a few images of my Z-stage with Jasons kit incl. the borosilicate glass... As I mentioned, I modified it for 3 point leveling. I drillied a new hole in the front center of the z-stage bottom plate and moved one of the little black plastic fittings in there. I also needed to drill out the hole in the aluminium plate a bit, and make the "keyhole" shape to accomodate the snap on system. The Borosilicate glass kit came with 4 thumb-screw like nuts, so I chose longer bolts to hold the bed and screwed them all the way through the fitting and out on the bottom side of the bed. I then put the thumb-screw nuts on there with some superglue in the threads... (remember the springs and spacers before glueing the nut on, as the bolt won´t come off again). Thats basically it, I think the end result is quite nice, and will be even nicer with the cable chain...

Will do when I get home.. I haven't made the cable chain yet though... Just modified the bed a bit for 3 point leveling and stuck it in there...

Alternatively, get one of these within the right specs: http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XDc+buck&_nkw=Dc+buck&_sacat=0&_from=R40 Attach it to an always on 19V line and dial the output down to 12V. then you can run all manner of 12V fans, LEDs etc. off that (as long as you keep it within its, and the PSUs current rating)

indeed, it can just be turned around to have the connector on the left side... I did this and are planning on the modified cable chain

Haha Shipping from denmark to Florida would be horribly expensive I have seen on ebay some US vendor selling the printed parts with acrylic lasercut panels. Maybe they could be persuaded to sell just the panels? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tantillus-3D-Printer-Kit-Printed-Parts-Acrylic-Panels-/181159475285?refid=store&ssPageName=STORE:HTMLBUILDER:SIMPLEITEM Alternatively, you could search online for a cutting service and send them the opensource lasercut drawings, or find a hackerspace somewhere and lasercut them yourself With regards to the hotend, I'm pretty sure all original J-heads have 5 cooling vents, meaning yours with 4 is a Chinese copy... That dosn't mean it dosn't work though... I just wanted to give you a heads up if you weren't aware, which I guess you weren't... I found this blog post by the original J-head designer, which is why I know, you might wanna give it a read and judge for yourself http://jheadnozzle.blogspot.dk/2013/11/is-j-head-real.html You can find more by searching around a bit on google for j-head china, or j-head clone

Shoot me a PM with an address and I'll send it off tomorrow... will probably take a few weeks to get there though...

I can send you mine in a letter if you want? It is not in very great shape, and It will take quite a while to get to Canada from Denmark, but it might work for you...

Are you sure that is the case when it is a spare part you can order in the store? Regardless... its worth a try I guess... I actually have the piece right here in my hand, from my scrapped UM hotend... taking 15 euro plus VAT and shipping for THAT is absolutely outrageous...

Alright.. I just re-checked, and my board does say 1.5.4 on it... Maybe its an early one EDIT: Looking closely at the picture of the 1.5.4 board on the wiki, it has the ports as well, they are just hiding under the bend down IC1 7812 regulator... Pictures on the pages for the 1.5.6 and 1.5.7 boards are actually of the 1.5.4 board as well, soI dont know about those... Still the 1.5.7 board must have some 12V? Maybe just one port for the electronics fan? Could't it just be split to connect the E3D hotend fan there as well?

You can NOT tell thats 3D printed Awesome!

The hotend fan output... yes... But as I wrote, at least my electronics fan runs 12V... Its a 1.5.4 board, and has 3 fan "ports" at 12V, FAN1, FAN2, FAN3. I have the electronics fan connected to FAN3, draw 12V for my UltiController to work without USB connection from FAN2, which leaves FAN1 free for the small fan on the E3D hotend...

E3D put quite some work into the v6 block, so going with the standard UM block would in my opinion be a bit of a shame... Also, as mentioned earlier in this thread, the v6 block is quite big compared to the E3D one, and so, has difficulty fitting with the current E3D air duct designs.. Actually, I dont think there are really any mounts and ducts specifically designed for the v6 yet apart from Johnnys, and I believe he uses Nick Foleys duct?The small fan on the hotend needs to be ALWAYS ON, so dont wire it up with the hotend fan, which you will typically (or at least can have) off for the first few layers... I would wire it up with the electronics fan, which I believe runs 12V and is always ON

So everything else on the um board can handle 24V? What about off the board? 19V heater? Steppers?Your setup is exactly like mine, except I havn't dared turning the PSU past 20V... Also my DC-DC converter dosn't get its 20V IN directly from the PSU but draws them from the board exactly like the 7812 regulator... I just desoldered the 7812 and soldered the DC-DC onto where it sat (IN+ on the 20V side, OUT+ on the 12V side, both IN- and OUT- soldered to the middle...

It looks great! Love the colors too Is that an original J-head or Chinese knockoff? (I count only 4 cooling vents, but hard to tell with the mount on...) Any experience with those? I got the lasercut parts from eMaker, user: indieflow: http://www.emakershop.com/Seller=1180 He has them in both acrylic and birch plywood... I got one of each since I couldn't decide... think I'll just have to build both Thinking of painting the wood with spraypaint (did this on my UM1), qnd lightly sanding the acrylic for a frosted glass look. I think I will try the cable driven z thaat sublime added later on... No leadscrew, no z-wobble, and slightly cheaper too

So how did you end on this project? is it printing yet? I just ordered lasercut parts for one

That is the hotend isolator coupler: https://www.ultimaker.com/products/isolator-coupler Teflon, I believe? Not sure if you can make something yourself to replace it (official UM spare parts are, as you can see, pretty expensive... Add shipping to that and, well...) Alternatively you could get a printed mount somwhere and go with a completely different hotend all together (E3D, Merlin, UBIS, J-head?)... Pretty silly since you just ordered this upgrade, I know... But truth is its probably going to be about the same cost as the UM spare part... The result with eg. the UBIS might be alot better than the stock hotend though...

Ultimaker support isnt exactly stellar at the moment, is it? Regardless... The Mankati is a cheap(ish) china printer.. So expect just that... Probably you are going to get what you pay for... As for the anti clog hotend I call bullshit... There are a million hotend designs out there with slot of approaches to handling/preventing clogs... I have a very hard time believing that This particular design should Be the answer to all prayers...

You can get the UM parts way cheaper off ebay...

Hi Targeter and welcome to the forums Fellow dane here, from Valby Copenhagen... Nice to see some more of us represented here