tommyph1208

Looks pretty good, but man its expensive

Sounds like a great idea.. I've done a fresh reinstall of my computer since disassembling the printer, so hqve to reinstall cura anyways.

While its not a problem to get some open ended belts of ~ 1 m. length for such a size printer, wouldn't it be ALOT harder to keep those belts tight? Maybe look into some stronger belts or better ways of tightning?

The thing that kinda puts me off with the Merlin is its wierd nozzles, they are like nothing ive ever seen before... What about UBIS nozzles? can you get some copatible ones from somewhere else than printrbot? A friend of mine might be buying a Printrbot Simple... If he does, I can ask him to include some extra hotends and we can split shipping and customs fees which will then be tolerable... Thanks for the input guys

Ive seen the UBIS you guys are using and it really looks awesome, I'm envious...There are several problems for me though in regards to that...: 1. the ceramics are out of stock 2. I already invested money in a bunch of nozzles that fit the standard and tje E3D hotend 3. I live in denmark and the Danish customs and stupid post service that handles the fees, rape people financially if they buy anything from outside of the EU priced above 80 dkkr (~ 13 euros) :( The stock head is scrapped though, I have an E3D lying, ready to go in instead.. Really curious to see if I'll run into the PLA problems that I've seen reported... regardless, I really would rather have the UBIS...

Thank you Valcrow, I definately think the idea of reading comments of each page first is a good idea, have seen alot of small hints in there

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:316812 ?

Hey guys After what seems like forever i am about to start reassembling my Ultimaker Original after a serious cosmetic and technical overhaul.. Since I bought the printer second hand I have not been through the assembly process before (only disassembly )and so just wanted to know if anyone has any tips or can warn about typical "first assembly" mistakes, pitfalls etc.? Here are some pictures of my parts after before mentioned cosmetic overhaul:

I see you maybe plan to add a heated bed, you shoul look in this thread: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2771-complete-heated-bed-kit-for-ultimaker/ Around page 3-4 a Chinese guy JasonHK joins the topic and presents his full Ultimaker Original HB kit, its quite awesome and cheap...

it needs to be useable afterwards, to generate some enthusiasm around the project and work that goes into it... So something like a keychain or small puzzle games of various sorts would in my mind be great starting projects... great thing is that depending on the detail and or complexity and shape of the puzzle or keychain there is room for a large variety of difficulty levels in design and production.

these are supposed to be awesome: http://store.quintessentialuniversalbuildingdevice.com/category.php?id_category=21

what about ordering the spare parts from china (or somewhere else) until Ultimaker gets their act together?

The 1895€ are ex.vat (even says on the page right next to the price, though its in grey letters that are harder to spot) Its 21% and you need to add shipping as well. For me in DK thats 26.84 with FedEx, which means the final price would come to 2325,43€... If you start to fill in an order you can see the correct price before reaching the payment section and hitting the "place order" button...

I even think my 50 silica pads from china were cheaper than a bag of rice

Duct tape and chewing gum is what makes the world go round man...

colorfabb is supposed to be great yes, also you have faberdashery in the uk which is supposed to also be great... They sell by the meter and you can get a "rainbow funpack with 10 m. of each of their top ten colors (100 m. total) for 22£ Try them out... its the best way to know really...

That is some top notch painting right there... man... I gotta get me an airbrush set.. How hard are these to use/learn? I used to do model painting in my younger years (warhammer fantasy) using fine brushes, so have some idea of highlighting, shadowing, blending etc., but have never used an airbrush or even seen someone use one...

Recieved it and the glass kit (which he somehow snug past customs - Im telling you, this guy is great) I have not installed them yet, so cant say if, and how good, they work. Both kits seem of excellent quaility for the price though

May I ask: - Where in the world is the printer? - How old and how used is the printer? - Do you have some photos of the printer itself? - What price did you have in mind? - Why are you selling?

just a heads up... that stuff can happen on an UM2 too: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5406-rats-nest/?p=47916

anyone (preferably in europe) who has 3 mm. ceramic ubis hotends they want to sell?

Can this be of any use? https://www.ultimaker.com/pages/company/about-us

Hi there, my german is not good enough for writing, so I hope you can use an english answer... Retracting means that the printer will pull back the filament when doing travels, that is: when moving from one area where it has printed, onto a new area where it has to print. Imagine eg. that you are printing two colums next to eacother with some space inbetween them, typically you will print one layer of one colum, then quickly move over an empty space and then print one layer of the other column. Without retraction, there will still be some pressure in the hotend when moving over the empty area, which will result in so called "stringing". With retraction enabled the printer will pull back in the filament string, creating a vaccum in the hotend, so no plastic will come out of the nozzle while doing the travel. As for settings you have to experiment, but a good starting point could be 4 mm. retraction length, with a speed of 40 mm./s. There is also a setting for "minimum distance" which determines how far the travel has to be before retraction is triggered... Other settings not related to retraction affect stringing as well, like the printing temperature and travel speed...

I agree with Robert, you are: - NOT going to be printing 300 mm/s (more like 100, .. maybe) - NOT going to be printing at 20 microns (anything below 60 is in my opinion outright silly, though I do not own an UM2) An advatage of the replicator/disadvantage of the UM2 that you have not mentioned is the current horrible lead times of the UM2... (For Canada I would easily expect 2 months before delivery, unless you buy from some local reseller that already has stock) Another thing to consider is that you can get China knockoffs of the Replicator for 1/3 the price...

Could it be that you need to adjust your retract settings? I have read that due to the very short hot area and very cool cold area of the hotend, retracting warm molten filament too far back in the chamber will cause it to solidify and jam...EDIT: Just read a bit of your link, and it talks alot about retract, so I guess you tried messing with that.. sorry