tommyph1208

I believe the guy who makes these posted in another thread? Edit: here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2771-complete-heated-bed-kit-for-ultimaker/page-3

Apologies, I see now that the headline says - UK, so that takes care of that part

Could you provide some more details, like: What do you consider to be a serious offer? Where is the printer located? Are you going for collect only, or are you willing to ship to europe/world?

I wanted to use the buck since I want 19 V for the UM board but 24 for the HB

Did you actually build this and have it working, or is it just a theory? It sounds like a very simple and elegant solution...

Im doing the same thing: - 24V 15A Industrial PSU: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LED-Lights-Devices-Switching-Power-Supply-24V15A-AC-DC-PSU-360W-110-220-230V-/181317124619?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2a3757c20b - MK3 Alu heatbed: http://reprap.me/alu-reprap-heater-board-mk3.html - Voltage adjuster/Buck (down to 19V for the UM): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131065094245?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 - DC/DC Solid state relay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190836925629?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2648 Plan is to adjust the 24V down to 19V for the UM board using the buck Have the UM board control the SSR via the heated bed port, SSR is connected to heated bed and directly to the 24V PSU

Alrighty then... I'm hoping my 350W PSU is large enough to drive both printer and HB... My heated bed is a MK3 alu heated, and specs say about 5.4 ohms of resistance when powered by a 24V supply... that makes around 107W... Adding the 160W of the Ultimaker should still leave me with enough... hopefully

Wow... So you are telling me 120W were going to the steppers and a few fans?

Dual extruder means dual hotends which are by far the component gulping up the most watts on the UM, isnt the standard heater cartridge 60W?

Nice prints! Did you know that you can vapor polish ABS prints with acetone fumes to improve surface finish and overall strength of the printed part? The print will become smooth and glossy and layers will melt together more, maybe even fixing your few bad layers...

Will you be adding a heated bed to the tantillus? If so, what heater will you be using? I have an idea that 'i might want to try building one of these with a friend at some point, but have had a difficult time finding any 10x10 cm. heat elements

You also have to watch out for what max current its rated at... This one says 12A which should be more than enough for driving the UM. It also says to add a heatsink if consuming more than 100W, I believe I saw somewhere else people estimating the UM to draw around 75W max, so it should be fine even without a heatsink.. I got two different ones, but very similar to it...

Also: Start simple... Your first print (your first many prints actually) shouldn't be some fancy dragon or complex architectual structure... Go with the Ultimaker robot, or even just a cube

I believe you are right about PWM, but as gr5 mentions, maybe the mosfets actually do this PID at roughly 100 ms. intervals? If it doesn't work I will have to go with bang bang mode

I bought myself a DC-DC Solid State Relay which should be able to switch on-off every 10 ms. or so... So no ticking... and I guess at those switching speeds PWM is still an option?

I am planning to do the exact same thing with my machine so also curious if nobody has input to why it wouldn't work... Seems like people are generally misinterpreting your intentions though... The way I understand you (and the same way I was planning to do it) is like this: - Buy a 24V PSU large enough to handle both printer and HB (I think 150W might be too small, I got a 350W myself) - Connect the HB directly to this PSU through a relay controlled by the HB outputs on the UM board - Connect the UM board to the PSU through a DC to DC converter that regulates down to 19V So HB gets 24, UM board 19 and you don't need to change anything on the board itself

Moving towards an E3D upgrade for my UM original, first parts assembled:

There is a setting somewhere that cuts off some of the bottom of the object ("cut off bottom" or something similar), check that you didn't mess with that one...

Print a handle for it: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:22819 Also I would probably somehow remove the feeder and bowden tube as that is what sticks out the most

You might also want to check out doodle3d (http://doodle3d.com) It extrudes 3d models from simple 2D drawings and is available for both PC and iPad... Might even be targeted at children below 12 years of age, but still worth a look... They also have a so called "Doodle3D WiFi-Box" to go with it, which connects your 3D-printer wirelessly to your laptop, computer, tablet or smart-phone, with the Doodle3d software running on the actual box...

This explains alot, thank you And nice to see an UM used for this kind of project (what is the project by the way? Research of some kind within the field of acoustics?) Next obvious and interesting question would of course be if the resulting plastic head is "good enough" at representing a human head? How are the resoults so far? Would it eg. be even better to print a skull as the inner part, place it in a slightly larger printed mold, and then fill the gap with silicone, (or that ballistics gel stuff they use all the time on shows like mythbusters)?

Nice print... but my god those images are huge :shock: What is it for? And just out of curiosity: Why hide away her brain, instead of making the head eg. perforated/mesh/wire style?

As I understand it the thermistor can be placed pretty much anywhere as the Alu plate has a very even heat distribution so maybe directly at the connectors is fine. On my MK3 there are two connector pads just below the NTC (I think those are the same drayson is referring to... they are smaller than the 12/24V connectors and larger than the NTC)... as far as I have understood it, these for mounting the LED....

May I ask why you are selling?

Naturally I would exchange the plug and switch with the one of the PSU I'm buying, and then connect the UM board directly to that PSU... I still don't know whether or not I would like seperate on/off switches for printer and heatbed... Probably not since the heated is only drawing power when switched on by a relay anyways.... Does anyone know of any PSU suppliers in Europe that might have what I'm looking for? Buying from outside EU add some VAT, Taxes and fees that I would prefarably like to avoid, though buying from china might very well end up being the cheapest solution regardless of the mentioned fees. Any experience with chinese PSUs of any type? Do they live up to their specs and your user requirements?