tommyph1208

Did you try the "Fix horrible" settings in Cura? It might also simply be, that the "strings" of the mesh are thinner than your shell thickness x 2, in which case cura won't include them in the slice... In your images, the shell thickness is set pretty high... Start by setting it to your nozzle size (std. UM nozzles are 0.4mm.), and check the layer view... If the mesh is included you can try 0.8 shell thickness for better strength, and check again...

+1 for PLA as the easiest print material... I also have a UM1, but If you go with the UM2, from reading the forums, I will say that you would probably want to print a new feeder (check the "Modifications and Hacks" section) and maybe a low-friction spool holder... If any of the very young children of the school should ever get the chance to play with it as well, you should consider the Doodle3d that Ultimaker also sells here on the site: http://www.doodle3d.com/

If you insulate the long nozzle (use something like kapton tape, maybe with some ceramic cloth/tape underneath) I would actually think this could be a fine long term solution... almosth worth a try, considering the prize of original nozzles (+ shipping :eek: !) Im actually running a 0.6 mm. nozzle atm, and with the right Cura settings it works nicely, you can finish prints alot faster too

Chocolate?

If you ever sell your car, its new owner will be forever wondering what this button does... Who knows, it might even drive him mad

If you indeed had broken wooden parts already when receiving the printer, Ultimaker HAS to provide you with new ones... Anything else would be huge fail on their part... I think you are just stuck in the "bad customer service pit" that so many users have been reporting about here on the forums... I hope for you that Sander reads this topic... If you have no luck with UM, it really isn't THAT difficult to make the panels yourself... Since the drawings are open source and available on gitHub, you just need a laser cutting service somewhere. It should be possible for you to google your way to one that is fairly close to you (or at least just inside china), alot of them have websites where you just upload a drawing, specify material, thickness etc. give your shipping address and pay... In the mean time, just to get you printing, I would think that you can still use your panel if you just apply some wood glue to the break, let it dry and maybe sand any tight spots ever so slightly before assembly... I spray painted my UM in a fairly thick layer and also did a bit of sanding here and ther ewhen putting it back together...

It does sound like what Zoev89 mentions... If you don't want to be adding the M302 command to every gcode file you generate, you can go and make a custom firmware (it sounds like you actually would want to do this if you modified the printer to print stuff at 40-60 degrees...) Download the most recent Marlin and look in the configuration.h file for something like: #define EXTRUDE_MIN_TEMP

It is true that it maybe (probably) doesn't matter about the voltage... I used a 12V fan from Fractal Designs "Silent series" for a long time, without issues... Also 19V fans are like virtually impossible to find as far as I can tell... It does however suck big time to buy an expensive fan and then fry it with 19V (I guess it can happen), so I would still be careful...

Its rated at 12V though... If you set the fan output to 255 or "full-on" you will get around 18-19V... Maybe the fan can handle it, I can really tell from the link... or maybe if you never set it full on... Thats kind of a bet though...

Yeah I agree about the fragility, AND it would really suck to break something while assembling the printer... Though I'm not sure it matters THAT much once it IS assembled, as the parts will probably tend to strengthen each other, and as I said, I did see a few UMs made from this, so its definitely possible... Anyways, np, it your UM - About the frosted Acrylic: I did see that it exists, but was unsure if it cuts in the same way as clear, I also think it is more expensive? Moreover, I didn't cut my Tantillus panels myself, but bought a pre-cut frame (have one in wood as well), and the only option was clear acrylic... Using one of those electric vibration sanders it didn't take long to sand though, and the result is very even, with a nice matte surface texture. Looking forward to what you end up with... If it is wood, I can strongly encurage painting/dying it before assembly, The end printer just looks so much better! And I actually think mine gained some stability (especially in the Z-stage) from the thin layer of spray paint I applied to mine... (I had it assembled without paint first, then took it apart, painted all wood parts, and put it back together). It was a very tight fit to get it back together, but everything also stays in place nicely (I'm not even sure I need the bolts and nut-traps anymore, but they are of course still there )

Alright... pretty impressive that the e-clips can cause enough resistance in that position, to cause under extrusion...:/ In terms of the gear, I'm pretty sure the build instructions say they should be aligned... Here are the instructions: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Ultimaker_rev.4_assembly:_Material_feed_mechanism However, I am also confident you can print the (very small) clip with them slightly mis-aligned... This can maybe convert the file for you: http://www.3dtransform.com/

You could also use acrylic... It should be fairly easy to get a hold of in good quality, and even a number of colors... Should also be very competitive to, or even a lot cheaper than, the alternatives... Ive seen a few UMs made this way and it seems to work fine... Only thing you have to be careful about is over tightening the bolts that lock into the nut-traps, as you can crack the acrylic. If you don't like the transparent look, you could sand it very lightly for a very UM2 inspired frosted look... I did this with a Tantillus frame, and I think it looks great The iOS version of the forums don't seem to have the "My media" button for embedding images in posts, but here is a link to an image of the result: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/gallery/image/7241-lasercut-acrylic-case/

Basically you just want something with little friction, to hold the hubbed bolt in place... Using a few e-clips should be just fine... If think its a good idea to put ad many as can fit, to make sure there is no play in the position of the bolt and gear...

Also a first for me... But maybe you can just export them as .STL or .OBJ Or export them to some other 3D software that can? From there, to making them actually print nice, is a whole other story...

Won't it be nice when the standard question, when the 3d printer topic is brought up, will be "So... did you 3d print a prostetic hand for a child yet?" Instead of the current "So... Did you 3d print a gun yet?" -_-

Causes like these makes you all warm and fuzzy inside Good job!

Growing mushrooms, by far the best part... what a freak organism! cool though...

Also, do consider doing some of the upgrades that people do anyways (like changing the hotend), right away... There is no reason for you spending hours and hours, trying to source the original UM hotend, only to replace it with say an E3D v6 within the first few months of use... Look at the UM, as more of a general (good) guideline design for a printer, and then make your own (educated) choices, based on what you read on the forums...

Also,why not print a calibration cube (eg. 1x1x1 cm), to rule out the model/stl cause... It will also be useful in terms of checking steps/mm.

Hey guys and gals, and a merry christmas! I stumbled upon these, and thought some of you geeks in here might appreciate them as much as me, so I thought I would share them with you: http://www.anthonyherreradesigns.com/index.php/8-ahd-blog/7-star-wars-snowflakes-2012 They are 2D snowflake cutouts in the shape of various starwars characters and spaceships... With very little work, these are very much 3D printable, and make for some fancy christmas tree ornaments I already tried a few, like this R2D2: I saved the preview image from the website linked above (not the pdf), cleaned it up i photoshop to make it pure black/white, as well as some of the holes expanded a bit. Then used Photoshop CS6's 3d features to extrude the image into a 3D model (I found that this yields better results than letting Cura read the image file directly), and voila!

You may want to check that your x/y axis are properly aligned perpendicular to eachother (forming a perfect cross), allowing the printhead to move freely on both axis... With the printer turned off you should be able to push the head on both axis with one or two fingers, without too much force. Also check your electronics cooling and make sure your stepper drivers are not getting too hot (they will miss steps) how hot does your stepper motors get when printing?

I think he revised the connectors in a 2nd iteration... Also I think he maybe still sells them, but the links in the post are obsolete... Anyways... you got your official UM kit now I see, and it is supposed to be very good

Another option is the kit discussed here (and onwards): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2771-complete-heated-bed-kit-for-ultimaker/?p=40421 Which I believe quite a few people (incl. me) opted for, before the official UM heatbed kit was released... Its quite alot cheaper, but does not come with the improved z-stage or 3-point leveling (that last part is pretty easy to do yourself though)

The idea is good... Somewhat... I guess you could maybe achieve it by making a duplicate of your model, scaling it down slightly, and printing it inside the original, in a cheaper filament? However, there is more to copperfill than the outside look, you would loose the heavy weight of the print, which I guess (at least to some) is a big part of a copperfill print?

E3D sell 15mm. versions at 1£ each... You could just place two next to each other if you want... http://e3d-online.com/Mechanical/Motion/Bronze-Bushing-for-8mm-Rod