tommyph1208

As Valcrow said, have a look at some SLA printers as well, like the Form1+ from Formlabs... You can order a free sample print from their website (just google something like " Form1+ order print sample"... I was very impressed with the sample I received, and would pick a printer like that over an FDM model anytime for printing detailed models...

What about an actual pump? Like the ones for sending air into the water in aquariums?

Indeed Though I initially imagined a much smaller hose...

Hi all... So in the eternal quest of lowering print head weight, I had an idea... AFAIK nobody has tried it before, and perhaps there is a reason for this, so I wanted to run it by the forums before doing anything else... As with the crossflow fan approach, my idea revolves around removing the bulky and heavy fan and fan mount from the printhead... Instead I wanted to add a small electrical air pump somewhere on the printer, and run a flexible silicone tube with air flow, along side the bowden tube, with its end pointing directly (or slightly below) the nozzle tip... The way I see it, the tube would be very light weight and take up next to no extra space... definitely an improvement over the fans and fan mounts. The air flow would also be very centered on the newly extruded plastic, and not all over the place like the nozzle, heater block etc. So... What am I missing? would it be impossible to get enough flow through the tube without a big ass (and very noisy) pump and equally big tube? How much flow is actually needed (when taking into account how precisely it can be directed)? I quickly found this 12v dc pump on ebay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-Small-Air-Pump-Mini-Electric-Air-Pump-Compressor-/281488704341?pt=UK_Pet_Supplies_Fish&hash=item418a08c355 Probably too weak right? Thoughts and comments are very very welcome

I saw a similar question somewhere, and I believe the answer was found in the fact that the poster had already soldered in a resistor on the board for use with home build heatbed kits... As described here: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Heated_Bed#Sensor Do you have something like that.?

Your basic tab should have 5 headlines marked in bold: - Quality - Fill - Speed & Temperature - Support - Filament Speed and Temperature should have settings for... Well... Speed and temperature... It sounds like maybe you are in basic settings mode... Which you shouldn't use... Do you have a button somewhere that says "Switch to full settings"?

Hej Modificeret UM1 ejer her... Har været på forummet et års tid. Du kender godt facebook gruppen 3d print(ere) i Danmark ikke?

You have probably (almost certainly) blown the linear 12V regulator discussed in the video you link to, its marked IC1 on your board. You can probably still just replace that... I replaced mine with one of these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=12v+dc+buck&_from=R40&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR5.TRC1.A0.H0.Xdc+buck&_nkw=dc+buck&_sacat=0 Works like a charm, and allows me to draw more from the 12V line (like LED diodes, additional fans etc.) That being said, I think you will run into a number of problems with this setup...And frankly, Im a bit surprised to see this semi professional kit suggest simply wireing the heatbed in and adding 24V to the board. I think the Ultimaker board says 16-20V... and probably for a reason... Im guessing a number of components could fail at 24V... Other components will definately perform weirdly (like the19V heater in your hotend, the fan attached to said hotend, steppers etc.)... The forums and google groups have a ton of discussions on how to do this best, easiest, most elegantly, etc., I suggest looking through those and maybe contacting the guys who made your kit to make them aware of the problem...

I only have the UM1, so cant say much about it in terms of "UM1+ vs. UM2", but Im also guessing that very very few people own both... From what I can gather from your requirements, your real choice is actually between the UM2 and a modified UM1+... Let me comment on each part from my point of view... - Quality... the most often asked, and hardest to answer, question of all things 3D print related... In my experience, a million things, other than the machine specs have an influence in the printed outcome... Quality takes trial and error, reading, learning, doing, etc... you being here on the forum doing your research, is a good start... To get back to the question, I see absolutely no reason why the UM1+ should not be able to achieve the same quality outcome as the UM2... with mods, maybe even better. - Dissolvable supports... Regardless of how you put it, this would need dual extrusion... As you mention yourself, this is not yet officially available for the UM2... I have also yet to see it actually work properly... I think you are much better off learning to do regular, easily removeable support in the same material as the one you print in. This forum has some great resources for learning about doing these in eg. meshmixer. - Click and print... I would say that the sheer fact that the UM1 is in kit form, and the UM2 is not, makes the UM2 the "winner"... Not only because you will not have to first assemble the UM2, but also because its pre-assembled nature also means pre-adjusted, pre-configured, etc. - Noise on the UM1 (and thereby also the UM1+), is definitely more than on the UM2, and something you have to (but also can) do something about yourself... You can read through this topic to learn more: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4479-sound-dampening-ultimaker-original/?p=37897 - Assembly of the UM1 is not a problem, especially from what I can tell from your described background... It has often been compared to assembling a large Ikea furniture (with lots of drawers, hinges, lights etc).... If something seems off, you just go to these forums and you fix it... - Upgrades... The hackable nature of the UM1 is definately a plus, if you are into that sort of thing... By now these forums have a ton of resources for all manner of hacks and upgrades (see the modifications and hacks section), naturally, as time passes, more and more things will show up for the UM2 as well, and have indeed already done so with eg. the many new feeder designs. The thing is that the UM2 initially looks prettier, and more as a regular consumer product, which makes new owners less reluctant to hack it up and mod it, as machines get older, this will change... -UM3 just around the corner sounds unlikely to me... The UM2 is still not that old, Ultimaker have spend some time since that on developing the HB kit for the UM1, and you mention yourself, the dual extruder kit for the UM2... Another thing with tech like this, is that you have to jump sometime... Keep waiting for the next, better version to come out... you can wait forever. - I know nothing about lead times, other than that they were horrible (along with the customer support when people tried to find out what was going on with their printers and money) some months back. If you decide on the UM2, I would consider a reseller that has stock... I think you have to go with Ultimaker themselves to get the best deal with the UM1+ incl HB, doodle 3detc. Not even sure if there are any resellers of the + yet... Those were my inputs, surely there are people out there with more, maybe even some who disagree, but hopefully they are of use to you

And another thing... When a print starts, and the head moves to the area of the buildplate where it has to print, does it use something Else than the x and y steps/mm stored in the firmware? I ask because it seems to me that it does this movement much slower, now after I did the 1/32 microstepping mod... The head still reaches the correct position though, but seems like what could be half speed of before... Maybe I'm just imagining things :/

Those are UM2 step sticks right? They look quite like the "ice blue" step sticks you'll often find bundled with eg. Ramps boards: http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/221281785267?nav=SEARCH But otherwise I guess Pololu black yes... And do be careful with the current, I just fried some pololu purple sticks, by going too high...(partially due to not knowing which way to turn the pot to increase and decrease current)... Start low and slowly work your way up until the stepper no longer skips steps (apply a little resistance to the printhead with a finger or two when testing)

It seems that I may indeed have fried my stepsticks... I replaced them with some other 8825s I had laying around (cheaper black ones, not from pololu... says "Designed by Kliment" on them), somehow found a reasonable setting for them, set steps/mm on the ulticontroller, and voila... I'm now printing with 159,74 steps/mm. on the x and y axis... By reasonable setting, I mean that I have not yet experinced any step skipping, motors get warm, but you can still touch them and not get burned, so I guess they are ok?

I did not know that, I have an UM1, disregard previous comment

Is your electronics cooling working properly? Do your stepsticks get very hot?

I cant get this to work guys! :( - I replaced the x/y stepsticks with Polulu purple DRV8825 stepsticks.... - I updated the configuration.h x and y steps to double what they were (so it now says 79.87220447*2).... You only have to edit them in that one place right? - I tried dialing them in doing auto home with the ulticontroller and applying resistance with some fingers... I found this larst step kind of hard, and ended up with the pot meter turned maybe only 1/2 a clockwise rotation from its minimum... Can anyone provide a rough ballpark of where they ended with theirs? I tried starting a print with these settings, but the printhead just stuttered around randomly, making alot of noise, so I stopped in fear of breaking stuff...

Just wanted to say: It works! Thanks largely to anon4321, so thank you I first reinstalled the default marlin without HB via Cura, to get the UltiController back in order. I then went over my modified version of the marlin_v1 again, and found that it had the: "#define ULTIMAKERCONTROLLER" line, commented out... Adding it back in fixed the UltiController isssue... I then reuploaded the custom marlin via Arduino IDE, and it works, registers the bed etc. One thing that worries me a bit is that this marlin doesn't seem to have a temp error function for the bed... When I unplug the thermistor frm the board, the UltiController just reads 0 degrees, but no warning... This leads me to think that if it bu accident got unplugged while the printer and bed is on, it would just keep heating on the bed, which would get very hot... I have not tested it yet, since I actually still need to wire up the bed with the SSR.... And after that, of course go through the PID adjustment that anon4321 generously provided a guide for Right now I'm actually messing with doubling the x/y steps/mm. in the firmware and installing Polulu DRV8825 stepsticks running 1/32 microstepping, I find adjusting the current to be a right bitch...

Alright, thanks... Ill try it in the morning I was actually aware that placing the cables wrong can cause this problem, and I think I tried it both ways, but will check again. I have an SSR for my HB too, wasn't sure it would work in anything but Bang Bang mode, but sounds like it from what you tell?

Alright, so I followed the instructions by Anon4321, disconnected Arduino from main board and reinstalled firmware through Adruino IDE... All good, UM is "back online" and can connect through Cura... However, my Ulticontroller is no longer working... It just displays squares across both lines on the display? With regards to custom firmware: Anon4321, you mentioned building the firmware yourself? With that, do you mean, you downloaded Marlin_v1 and tweaked Configuration.h, then uploaded this through Arduino IDE?

alright thanks

I have the exact same issue... Can anyone help?

You should be just fine with 20V, the board actually says something like 16-20V DC (next to the plug) Just make sure that your electronics cooling works properly, and maybe check the temperature of components a few minutes into a print, just to be sure... I think the critical part is your 12V regulator (black component with 3 legs and a small heatsink attached, marked IC1 on your board)

I think Johnny means one of these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR2.TRC0.A0.H0.Xdc+dc+buck&_nkw=dc+dc+buck&_sacat=0&_from=R40 I use that for 12v as well...

Just a little update, I recieved my two lasercut frames for the Tantillus (one wood and one acrylic) from indieflow on eMaker, and Im happy with the quality... I sanded the acrylic panels for a nice frosted glass look I just used 240 grit on one of those electric sanders that shake rather than rotate, I think the result looks quite nice

As mentioned in the posts above, asking for comparisons between printers on the forums of one of the printers in question, is bound to introduce some bias... Additionaly, the question of "best printer" is a somewhat ambiguous one... No doubt that the UM2 (or even UM1) are amongst the top FDM printers (as reviews and comparisons in eg. make magazine will also tell you). However, depending on the purpose of the printer and prints, there are now other technologies to consider. High end resin printers like the Form1 or the recently kickstarter launched M one, will achieve superior resolution/surface finish results. This however comes at the cost of eg. semi hazardous and rather expensive resins... Again... its all about the intent, purpose and size of your wallet...

Hi Did you consider the complete alu heated bed kit from ebay: http://www.ebay.com/usr/3dprinting_hk There is a borosilicate glass kit to go with it, and the seller also has power supplies. I have the kit, and I am really satisfied with its apparent quality and looks: I still have not totally completed my rebuild though, so havent printed with it yet, others have though, you can read a lot more about it (and heated bed solutions in general) in this thread: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2771-complete-heated-bed-kit-for-ultimaker/ If you are set on the RepRap heatbed, I would: - Go for a 24V PSU large enough to drive both heatbed and printer. - Wire the heatbed up to the 24V via relay controlled by the board heatbed mosfet - Wire the board up to the PSU through a DC stepdown buck, dialed at 19V output.