tommyph1208

I have been messing around with the exact same setup myself, close to a working state now. So far, my solution is: - 1 industrial 18-24V psu (dialed to 20V), mounted under the UM - 12V regulator (marked IC1 on your board) replaced with a 12V DC step-down buck from ebay - LEDs driven from this 12V line as well - Heatbed connected directly to 20V PSU through Solid State Relay controlled by the UM Boards heatbed port (havent wired this up yet, but sounds like a common approach, exept maybe for using SSR instead of regular Rely)

This sounds like you wasted the 12v regulator on your board (maked IC1), did you have the printer turned on for long periods of time without the fan blowing on the electronics? eg. while you were adjusting the stepper drivers? You may want to have a look at these other posts: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3426-classic-ultimaker-just-died-only-green-led-lights/ https://groups.google.com/forum/m/#!topic/ultimaker/voS2qlOs8-k If you have a multimeter, try measuring the voltage across the pins of the 12V regulator component... if you turn the board/printet so that the 12v regulator is closest to you, it should be 19V between the middle and left pins and 12V between the middle and right pin...

Welcome to the forums Be sure to post your RC projects as you progress, as well as your problems and questions. People on here love to see cool stuff working, as much as they love answering questions

These printable ones use regular rubber bands... They are made for the UM1 but I believe they fit the UM2 as well... http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:25950 https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ulti-foot Otherwise I'm sure a creative person like you can take the idea and cook up something similar

Good well written description of the part, how to assemble it, its intended use, where its coming from (inspirations, interations etc.) is a big plus i think... It will usually tell if the designer has thought things over, and if there is anything you need to be particularly aware of...

I dont really think you want to go lower than .4 mm. nozzle diameter... A lot of other things have a saying in the quality when you go that small... Also, it would take forever to print anything with smaller nozzle.. Regarding support, maybe look into making your own way in eg. meshmixer, or even straight in your modeling software

Some easy and cheap stuff to experiment with: You can quite easily change it to a 3 point leveling system by drilling a new hole in one of the sides of the build plate and z-stage plate, beween the existing holes and moving one of the bolts with springs in there, discarting the other... or use longer bolts like and some sort of finger grip, like: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/gallery/image/3387-img-0734/ Some people also claim to get better results with a flexible z coupling rather than the fixed stock version... something like: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-6-6-35-8mm-Flexible-Shaft-Coupling-CNC-Stepper-Motor-Coupler-Top-Tight-D20L25-/370631482123?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&var=&hash=item564b5b9b0b The harder and much more expensive way is to conpletely recreate the entire z-stage structure for a more solid/rigid/stable design...

Dosn't the springs allow the bed to dislocate when/if your printhead hits it... instead of just ruining nozzle and/or print bed?

Is that in euros or pounds?

These might fit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Pcs-Spare-Borosilicate-Glass-Plate-Heated-Bed-Ultimaker-reprap-3d-printer-/161314219856?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item258f13a750 They are for a heated bed kit for the UM1.. Made from heat resistant borosilicate glass

All I ever read on the main page is the beginning of the headline "A new design has been posted... " (on YouMagine) Now... Why not change that headline to the actual title of the design? That way, when a new design is posted (and the notification shows up here on the forum) us UM forum members can easily see if it is of relevance to us, without even leaving the main page...

So you also mean to tell me v5 nozzles wont fit the v6 hotend?

Say this in a Danish 3D print group on facebook too... Its stupid, its sad, its wrong and its bad... I hope to god MakerBot gets put out of buisness by China... (i know thats not going to happen, but one can dream)

Theres a sales section on this forum (bottom of main page), and check ebay as well

I'm sorry to say, this but... As you pointed out yourself, delivery (and general service level) from UM is horrible at the moment (and basically have been ever since the UM2 was released)... Based on what I have seen on the forum the last months I would NOT advise you to buy anything directly from them, be it UM1 or UM2.. From what I can tell, you risk ending in a horrible situation where you are waiting several months for your printer, with bad or no ways of communicating with UM... all the while, they have your money and the rest of the world of 3d printing is in fiery development, with new designs constantly being released at ever more competitable prices... That being said, I have always, and continue to, believe that the UM1 is a great printer... My best advise would be for you to buy a used UM1 in good condition (many will be). You wont do any better than that in terms of price and value for money. To address some of your other concerns: - In my experience the rigidity of the wooden UM1 frame is no problem at all, its a great design and a very stable one. I spray painted mine (see my gallery) for a nicer not so wooden look and an even tighter and snug fit... - There are a lot of HB solutions for the UM1 by now, from the very DIY reprap approaches to very professional nice looking plug and play products (like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/161157442118?lpid=82%20),%20%20so%20its%20really%20not%20that%20much%20of%20a%20problem...%20UM%20have%20also%20promised%20an%20official%20HB%20upgrade...%20The%20release%20date,%20price%20and%20lead%20time%20are%20somewhat%20uncertain%20though... - Layer heights are not always synonymous with print quality, a lot of factors have a saying here, and though its certainly nice to have the option and possibility to go down to 0.05 or even 0.04 mm., often I believe it won't be worth the print time or trouble... That being said, 0.2/0.25 sound like a lot... I find 0.1 to be a good default setting, but of course it depends of the object and purpose. Hope this whole rant helps in some way... its definitely a jungle out there, and getting thicker by the day... Only way to learn is to just dive in, and with a UM1 you'll be off to a good start. By getting one second hand you'll still have money left for tweaks, upgrades, or maybe even your second printer...)

it is not (entirely) related to the amount of problems/bad quality you are experiencing, but your shell thickness should always be a multiple of your nozzle diameter... eg. 0.4, 0.8, 1.2, 1.6 etc. for a 0.4mm nozzle...

Surely it is possible to make something that blows air... (that's the essential part right?) But its definitely not going to be very silent :/ On another note... I just ordered a DC type crossflow fan, what was the conclusion on how/where to connect them? Can you drive a fan like that dirctly from the UM board, or do you need a separate circuit with eg. a relay driven by the fan output?

maybe the extruder driver is fed too much current, and so overheats?

Sadly not, already tried... I think the thread is M8, the bowden tubes i have both measure just around 6 mm. on the outside, so they are actually quite loose in the hole... Also i kind of like the push fittings, and how you can easily remove your bowden from them... That gets alot harder if the bowden is screwed directly into the hotend...

Several people in here have mentioned contacting Printerbot, asking about stock, and if they could put more hot ends in their store etc. Anyone care to share how they contacted them? What email/contact form did you use? I can't find any email info on their site, and wanted to contact them to ask what version of the hotend they currently have in stock (ceramic or cartridge), since the store just says that they will ship whatever version they currently have stock of...

I dont know... The one i got has a screw (called umbraco in DK, dont know if thats an international title...) in the top that can be taken out so the top has internal threads... A few pictures: So im guessing if one could find a coupling that fits the diameter and threads it could be used straight out as a very compact little bowden hotend..?

I´m not saying they can just hire 10 monkeys to put stuff in boxes and everything will be ok, I´m well aware that its more complex than that... What I AM saying, is that they should seriously look into getting some help from the outside from someone who knows abit about handling growth. Someone to help optimize communication chains, stock management, hell maybe even tell them that they need to stop taking in new orders before they get their shit together. As I've mentioned before in another thread, UM is not the first company in the world to experience growth, there are methods of dealing with that and consultants who are experts at stepping in and implementing such methods. Money for such a consultant (or team of consultants) may be very well spend....

I got my fingers on an original j-head MK V Hotend, and it seems like a great product, very small/compact and seems pretty robust... Has anyone ever put one of these in the UM original? If so, how were the results?

Unless the guys at Ultimaker did something very wrong they should be swimming in money by now (christ, they even withdraw money from you before sending items out, or even have them in stock)... So hire some more goddamn people, and if thats not enough, hire some more (maybe consider actually hiring someone who understands growth)... How hard can it be...? Sadly, what I have seen here on the forums the past months (ever since the UM2 released really...), is a once great company, rapidly loosing its popularity with its most priceless asset, its fans and customers...

Unless you want to source everything yourself (its definitely possible, others have done so...) I´m pretty sure you have to just buy the kit and throw away (or sell them as spares?) the wooden panels in favor of your own laser cut from whatever material you like (what were you thinking of building it from?). Alternatively, if its only the wooden look you are not too happy about, you can paint the wooden laser cut parts before assembly... I just recently took mine apart and spray painted it a glossy white, now it looks like this: Others have used water based colors to simply dye the wood in a color...