tommyph1208

Once again Ultimaker saves Christmas! These 4 wedges were "designed" and printed in a jiffy, to align my christmas tree Retraction settings were spot on!

I wouldn't know since I have no personal experience with it... From what I've heard, some people are of the opinion that you may gain a greater flow control with 1.75mm. as well as less oozing (less molten plastic in the heated chamber above the nozzle). Apart from that, I believe extruding 1.75 filament requires less force from your extruder, making eg. a direct drive extruder with a normal nema17 more feasible... On the downside, I think 1.75 mm. filament tends to be more expensive (at least in some areas)...

Form1+... no doubt... I ordered one of their free print samples from their website and was absolutely blown away by the quality... I cant really see myself spending that much money on a printer though... So maybe one day I will buy a cheaper DLP based SLA printer... There was one called m-one on Kickstarter by a company called MakeX, that I almost jumped on...

As I said, I think the 4 x 0.6mm walls, and 2.4 mm bottom helped, I also printed quite hot (around 220 degrees) and with increased flow... I think I had it easier than you by the fact that mine just had to go inside of a christmas tree foot ( it fit like a glove btw., which was such a great success feeling).. Bottom line is it didn't have to be elegant or pretty in any way...

I have an E3D v5 hotend, and after some tweaking, I am very satisfied with how it performs... I also have a v6 lying around that I want to switch to at some point (bought the v5 before the v6 was released)- The Chimera sounds just right for what you want... Its also based on the v6 design, which is supposed to be even better than the v5.... There are some things to note though..: - It dosn't come cheap - Its designed for 1.75 mm. filament, so you probably have to modify your extruder(s) - Since its very new, there arent many experiences with it out there, AND you probably have to design and print your own hotend mount (shouldn't be too hard) You could also buy two v6 hotends, they won't take up more space than two std. Ultimaker hotends, but I guess its still a less elegant solution than the Chimera

Posting something very unspectacular here... Behold! A vase/cup thingy... The story: I recently went with the family to buy a Christmas tree and a christmas tree foot... Upon returning home, I read the little pamplet that came with the tree, and see that placing the tree in water, will drastically improve the trees livespan, freshness and appearance, as well as make it much more fire proof... I instantly go, pour some water into the bottom of the newly bought christmas tree foot, only to discover that it is NOT water tight... 3D printer to the rescue! The print is 80 mm. diameter and 75 mm. tall, and fit perfectly inside the foot... Printed in PLA at 0.2mm layer height and 2.4 mm. shell (wanted to make sure it was water tight)... Using a 0.6 mm. nozzle and something like 75 mm./s print speed, this took a few hours... The funny thing is that I also posted this on facebook, and instantly got around 30 likes... Either its the christmas spirit, or people really like when 3D printing is used to solve actual everyday problems and not just make more printer upgrades... Anyways, my tree is now happy, and will hopefully last all through December. Merry Christmas everybody!

very nice, but dosn't it make alot of noise?

Found it! http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3836-has-anyone-here-printed-a-tantillus/?p=30099

It is true that someone in here posted about a printed Tantillus build..., it was quite far along. I dont remember who or where... I also have several lasercut panels lying around for the Tantillus, and have started collecting parts for them... As far as I have seen, the instructions by Sublime on the Tantillus website are very detailed...

FTL (Faster Than Light), is on sale on Steam for 3 euros... I cant even begin to list all the reasons you should buy it (no mp though...)... Soundtrack alone is worth 3 euros... Anyone here playing Frozen Synapse?

I think it will end up being too expensive for me, sorry about that... Hope you find a buyer close by!

Do you have an estimate on what the shipping might be to Denmark?

I'll give you 30 + shipping, gonna chop it up and use it in some Tantillus printers....

Please post pics So you ended up not takning the printer apart? The end chocolate look is probably a result of the paint/dye not covering completely... So the natural very bright brown/yellow/sand color of the wood, shines through...

Alright, I did not catch the fact that you already have the heatbed for the UM2 lying around, how did you get a hold of that? Regardless of what and how you do, you have to get either a separate power supply for your heatbed, or upgrade your current power supply to one with a higher current rating (the std. power supply woth be able to pull both heatbed and printer). I don't know the voltage rating of the UM2 and its heatbed, but if you go for the "two power supplies solution" you might as well get a power supply that matches it. If you want to keep it at 1 power supply, you could go as high as 20V without damaging your UM board. An alternative could be to go with a 24V power supply (if that is what the heatbed needs) and then use a DC stepdown to 19V for the rest of your printer. As you will see if you look through the many threads, posts and guides about making heatbeds for the UMO, you cant run the heatbed directly through your UM board (you will burn your linear 12V converter, and possibly other components as well). The recommended solution is to run the heatbed through a relay, switched on-off by the heatbed mosfet terminal... I wouldnt be too worried about having to drill some holes in your heatbed, provided that you can see where the copper threads run (dont drill into those).

You might get better answers posting in english in another part of the forums... My limited german allowed me to get the gist of what you are asking... You can buy the Heated bed kit for the UMO in the store section, its very similar to the one in the UM2, but also somewhat expensive... A great alternative is the Heated bed kit sold on ebay by Jason_HK who is also a user on this forum. Its an aluminium heatbed with temp sensor embedded and "key holes" cut to fit the UMO z-stage. It also comes with wires, connectors and a relay I believe. When I got mine healso sold a borosilicate (heat resistant) glass plate kit to go with it... its discussed here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2771-complete-heated-bed-kit-for-ultimaker/?p=40421 Its quite old by now, so not sure about links, (the one in the post still works but says "out of stock"), maybe you can try to reach out to Jason_HK and ask... This looks alot like it, not sure if its the same: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Heated-Bed-Kit-Metal-Plate-with-Temperature-Sensor-for-Ultimaker-3D-Printers-/221611798270?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item339917aefe

Im not sure what they mean by that (and actually havn't heard it before)... If its about being able to reed the instructions, numbering etc. on the pieces, I call BS... The smart thing is that all inscriptions, numbering etc. are ingraved into the wood using the laser cutter, rather than painted on or whatever... So you can still see them after having painted on top of them... Even with my thick layer of spray paint and sometimes multiple sandings, I can still see all the engravings (and to be honest with a little care when assembling, you probably dont even need half of them)

I painted my OMO using white spray paint, you can see the results in my gallery... I took the whole printer apart for it, and it was a somewhat huge task... Though the end finish is very nice, Im not sure I would recommend the method to others... I also did a few mistakes which made it more complex that it needed to have been, but I had never really painted anything of that size before, so it was also a learning experience... Some of what I learned: I started by disassembling the printer and sanding the wood lightly to remove any small fibers sticking up (be sure to remove any dust afterwards before painting), I think this is a good idea regardless of painting method. Having read that many thin layers of paint is better than one thick one, I tried this approach but had horrible results... The second layer of paint would curl up in weird spider web patterns (actually somewhat cool, if I would have been able to replicate the effect consistently). I dont know if it was just the paint, or some humidity thing, if it could have been avoided with a primer, or what, but I had to sand those pieces back down and start over, this time using a single thick layer of paint which looked a lot better, and had a very shiny and even surface. I first had some pieces laying on sheets of newspaper and painting from the top, but the the thick paint layer would seep and run down under the pieces and stick the newspaper to them, which was hell... So don't do that. I ended up sticking pin needles in a piece of cardboard and placing the wood pieces on those... This worked great, but was somewhat tiresome and not that stable. The spray paint won't adhere to the burnt sides of the pieces of the wood, so I had to apply a very thin layer of some wall paint I had laying around, to those first. The spray paint adhered nicely to this paint and the sides were easy to paint with the pieces raised up on the needles, the result is a nice "complete" look... Like the printer is made of ceramics or something Long story short Im very happy with the result, but it was a lot of hard work, and Im sure there are better ways to achieve the same or almost the same... Maybe if you are not a paint noob like me, you can do better. What I have seen a lot of people do is to paint the raw wood using latex water based colors applied with a brush... Its not as much painting as it is dying the wood, and the result is also widely different than mine, but I still think its a lot easier, and can look good. You will preserve the dark burned look of the sides and you will still be able to tell that its made of wood (you have to look closely at mine now to be able to tell this). The dye process is described here on the Ultimaker wiki: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Painting_Your_Ultimaker Im guessing that if you are meticulous and careful, you could even do this with the machine assembled (just removing all non-wooden parts) Hope this helps

I believe a very popular approach (and the one suggested by ultimaker themselves, at least for the UM2) is to use an UHU glue stick to apply a thin layer of glue on the glass... You can take the glass plate off and wash it warm water...

+1 on the wires... Its a somewhat known problem that these can be subject to loose connections, short circuits, noise, etc. which can cause temp errors and or/weird temp readings... Check the ones connecting your temp sensor with the small amplifier board on top of your print head, as well as the ones that connect that board with your um main board underneath the printer.

There is a UMO version of the cable chain, if you have a heated bed of sorts...

Proper retraction settings vary greatly for the average retraction distance, printer, filament, etc.... Im afraid you would just have to try it out... Start with something like 4 mm. retraction at 40 mm./ sec.... if you still have stringing try adding 10% to those values and try again. In terms of stringing it also helps to lower the temperature and increase the travel speed

Look into the crossflow fan approach as well: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3890-the-crossflow-fan-approach/?hl=crossflow

+1 on the lower temperature and speed, it can really make alot of difference... Printing 2, means printing two of the same object at the same time, simply by placing them next to eachother on the buildplate in cura... its a common technique used when printing small objects, to ensure that each layer of the prints get enough time to cool down before the next layer is put on top, because the printer will print layer 1 of object 1, then layer 1 of object 2, etc... with an object as small as that one there, try printing 4 or even 6 or 8 at the same time, it will probably give you much better results, and as a bonus you can chose the best one once they are done...

I'm not sure I agree with this... Alot of 3d printer fanducts are designed to funnel the air and direct it right below the nozzle tip... Like: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:17768