tommyph1208

you can run a bed leveling wizard by connecting your printer to your PC via usb cable and selecting "Expert" -> "Run bed leveling wizard" in Cura

Nice, great presentation video, good work! And looks like the campaign is going well too Ultimaker should definately pick up on this and support it in some way... Since it looks like the campaign will actually be a success, which will get you your printer, maybe that is not so much needed. They could support you with eg. some filament, spare parts, or I guess you can always use more printers IMO this is the perfect 3D printing project, both from a human and PR, point of view

I was actually under the impression that acetone would not affect PLA, only ABS... I guess I was wrong :/

This is the sales thread for the UM2 one that was sold on here a while ago... http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/8309-um2-printinz-plate-for-sale-in-nl/ Maybe you can get some valuable info if you send the seller a PM?

Soo... Sander just posted this: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/9344-company-update/?p=90597 Specifically stating: "In the breaking dawn of 2015 decision has been made by Ultimaker not to continue developing a dual extruder upgrade for the current Ultimaker 2." Seems it has to do with an inevitable loss of print quality... Frankly, I think it is a way better decision than pushing some half finished solution to marked, which will just lead to even more user frustration, and as he also writes: "...we think the route to a dual material print is not yet as simple as it should be. This will give an overload on our support team, which we will not be able to handle at the moment." So, IMHO, well done Ultimaker... It seems you are (finally, some would probably say) starting to take your responsibility seriously... Sometimes, that requires tough decisions like this one...

try adding a little bit of oil in the bowden tube, it will reduce friction and probably help alot with the extrusion

I second the heater, thermistor, all things electrical... A lot of the other stuff you can potentially hack together to still make work if they should break... - A cracked slider block?... : Glue it a bit or give it some gaffa... It will hold up until you print a new one... But stuff like the heater, thermistor, even maybe a spare stepper, stepstick etc... You cant temporarily fix those if they break, and you are left with buying new ones and waiting for delivery... That could be 3-6 weeks if they have to arrive from say... China

Definitely try the "two at once" approach, or even 4... and pick the best one... The print is so tiny, that even printing 4 at a time shouldn't take long... For perfection...: Plenty of cooling, and tweak your print temperatur and retraction settings

I would just try it in ABS for starters...

Part 2:

Just finished my biggest print to date: The fume extractor above my stove has a circular exit hole and comes with a large circular flex tube that you are supposed to connect to an exit hole in your wall... However, my apartment is not of modern date (about 100 yo), and the exit hole is rectangular... The circular stud of this print goes inside the extractor tube, and is one of two pieces that will connect circular-tube with rectangular-hole. The other part im printing has the same size base but a rectangular stud that fits the hole in the wall... Once done, I will bolt them both, base-to-base, inside the kitchen cabinet that cover the wall hole.. Printed in white PLA, with a 0.6 mm. nozzle, 200°C, 0.2mm. layers, 100 mm/s print speed.

Use the glue stick, and if you have a box of some sort (eg. cardboard) that can fit over the printer while printing, try that. The box will keep an even temperature inside the build champer, which will result in less shrinking, warping and lifting...

just use the recommended print temperature of the material (PLA ~ 200, ABS ~250)

Do you have an image of the print/model or a link to it?

By the way... To add images to a post, click the "my media" button above the commenting window (dosn't work on mobile though)

Great you sorted this out, I was about to suggest you checked the thickness in the low parts of the model as well Now for printing, move away from the basic setting options and switch to full settings, you'll learn alot, and in the end get better results. You don't need support enabled for a print like this since terrain is typically "flat" without overhangs... You do however need som internal structure in the model for the top surface to rest on... For this, you need to put a % value in the "infill" setting, somewhere around 20-25% should be sufficient

The "waffle like" structure you are referring to is infill... it is defined as a percentage value in cura. 0% infill will slice and print your model as just a hollow shell, 100% infill will slice and print your model as one solid " filled" object. Any value in between will give you this waffle pattern in varying size/resolution. It is designed to save material and print time, while maintaining object strength and internal support. The support options on the other hand, will generate similar patterns under any overhangs on your model (parts of the model hanging out in the air with nothing underneath them to hold them up) regarding the open areas you are experiencing, check that you dont have a value set at the "cut off object bottom" setting...

small one looks so cute!

Hey I don't think your problem with the cracks is an underextrusion problem, but rather a classic result of the ABS material shrinking when cooling down, which tears the layers apart... The best ABS prints are achieved by closing off the printer... Adding something in the holes, and top (like acrylic plates or similar), to keep heat from escaping the build chamber... Given some time, your heatbed will heat up the air inside the printer, and this "oven effect" will help keep the ABS from shrinking, and thus help prevent your print from cracking... Its hard to enclose the top of the printer, due to the bowden setup, but it has been done... (Do a search for Ultimaker heated chamber)... BUT: Is there any particular reason you are printing this in ABS in the first place? PLA is a much easier material to work with, it prints cooler than ABS, shrinks less, and you will likely have no issues with that, even without a heated chamber... Just a thought. About the stringing (which is what the "stringy messy stuff" is called...): This is a result of print material leaking from the nozzle while the print head is traveling to a new destination... It can be reduced by tweaking the "Retraction" settings in Cura... Enable retraction, and start with something like 40 mm/s speed, 4 mm. distance... Work your way up from there... Lower print temperature and higher travel speeds (also Cura settings), will also reduce stringing... About the splitting objects question... Cura doesn't rescale your models unless you tell it to... So just cut it apart in your modeling software (maybe add some tabs and holes to make precise and stronger assembly easier) and import them to Cura one at time... If ou want to scale in Cura, just scale all parts equally...

You are printing PLA at 230C!? I would say that is waay too hot, and might be (at least one of) the reason(s) your surface looks the way it does... I would try somewhere around 180-190C, that might help you get rid of some of that massive stringing between the towers as well...

What about Colorfabbs "Naturel"? http://colorfabb.com/naturel#.VKalQiuG9XE Example print: http://learn.colorfabb.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/IMG_2483-580x870.jpg

So... ColorFabb is releasing another exotic filament... brassFILL https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/thread/brassfill-new-filament-colorfabb?utm_source=customerio&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=customerio&user=26273&otl-token=B7Do2g2-dodn3kMkpguBK9dbORA6q0nJGRgf9ExeUHM×tamp=1418397121 I think it looks pretty sweet, Im more impressed than with the copper and bronzeFILL prints Ive seen... What do you guys think?

Nice Christmas present I'm jealous I learned alot from following this forum, just spending 10 mins. in here every day, reading posts as they come in, instead of only using it to get answers for your questions/problems as they occur. It will be confusing at first, but you'll get there Also... Print like mad! Learning by doing...

That sounds like a pretty badly designed filter... But hey, if it works, it works... Setting 100% infill won't improve strength of the mesh itself (since it will now consist of just two 0.3 mm walls) but you are right about it compensating for the lack of strength of the rest of the part... If it didn't turn out good, you should consider redesigning the part (it dosn't look too complex).. Some other things you could try is the "swap at z" Cura plugin, that will let you slice the part several times with different settings, and combine the results wit the "swap" happening at a specific z height... With that you can do the 0.3 mm. hack with the bottom mesh, and print the rest with better settings

Anyone actually eat anchovies on pizza?