tommyph1208

Electric dry cabinet will definately work, but sounds a bit like overkill... I ordered 50 small silica pads (the small moisture absorbing bags you find in eg. shoe boxes) on ebay... Throw the filament in an tight container or bag with a few of those, and you should be good

I like the UM1 too, and I want to keep liking Ultimaker as a company... It was my printer of choice, and has been the printer and company I have recommended to other people asking into, and wanting to get into 3D printing. However, for all of the different problems with UM right now, I'm not sure I would recommend anyone to buy the UM2, and I think thats a damn shame... UM is NOT the first small company that has experienced success, and have had to grow and expand with increasing popularity and demand.. There are ways and methods of dealing with that...

I want to question that statement... As someone who has been following the forums for quite some time I have seen a serious increase in unsatisfied customers due to various cases of UM not having been able to keep their logistics together after the release of UM2.It is coming to the point where people go to the forums before ordering, see all the negative posts, and go for another make and model... which frankly, as things are right now, they should... there are plenty of alternatives out there, and they are getting more and cheaper with each day people are sitting around waiting for UM to get their s*** together... Adding the problems with the UM2 feeder failing and slipping filament, only makes matters worse...

Normal, I don't know, but it is definitely not unseen to have prints of the detail level you are asking for come out something like that... 3D printing is NOT an "out of the box and everything will be dandy" kind of thing, and to print models like the one you have posted there in that sort of detail will require both experience and skill (the two go hand in hand really)... Can it be printed better than shown in the picture? Definitely. Will it ever live up to your expectations...? Hard to say... I'm wondering if you are maybe expecting a bit too much from the technology, a sort of "this could/will be the tool that will solve all my problems and headaches" approach... In the end, its a machine that presses molten plastic through a 0.4 mm. hole that moves... There are limits to what it can do, and again, those limits are reached through a lot of tinkering...

There is a guy from China here on the forums, Jason HK, that sell a Boroilicate glass plate kit (that at least fit the HB kit for UM1 that he also sells). Discussions on it are here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2771-complete-heated-bed-kit-for-ultimaker/?p=45308 Jason HK is a great guy, very communicative and responsive.

Solvent welding? What sort of solvent? How?

Also... dual extrusion isn't really multicolor printing... you can print two separate colors, thats it... So don't expect models of hight fidelity in terms of colors... Instead consider painting the model after its printed... You can get very nice results from that

why not just print one? There are multiple examples of redesigns out there... Like this one that sort of makes me think of valve and halflife http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:33286

This happened to me once and turned out to be a loose connection in the thermistor (more specifically, where the wire from the thermistor goes into the small amplification board on top of the hotend)

Theres a brand new kit for sale on ebay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ultimaker-3d-printing-kit-/321366120890?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4ad2e9d9ba Price seems high though, but maybe it can be bargained...

Man... that is bad :( Hope you can get a replacement or something, this stuff shouldn't happen.... For future reference, have you tried just leaving the print on the plate for a while until it cools off? The print should pop right off the plate by itself as it cools, so you won't have to pry it off and risk damaging the glass...

I concur... After I ordered two of the borosilicate glass plate kits yesterday he contacted me here on the forums to ask if there was any way that he could help me in terms of the stupid danish customs. I don't think there are, unless you do stuff that is borderline fraud, which is what I told him, but still... This is damn good customer service people!

Bad timing :( I already ordered and got my HB kit, but all the customs and fees and stuff means placing a new order for the glass is a bad deal for me... Should have gotten it along with the HB :(

Sure sounds like imperfect axis (either thinner in one end than the other or slightly bend), did you try to take them out and check them on the most even surface you can come across? You are absolutely sure that it is the axis that have play inside the bearings and not the bearings that have play in the frame or the frame itself is unstable?

I hardly think the printer will change revision during that time, however you should check with the reseller that they actually do have stock before ordering. I have heard of others who have ordered through resellers that then places an order at ultimaker and thus are subject to the same delivery times... On another note: A thing to keep in mind is that if a machine has first been sent to a reseller, and then on from there to you as a customer, it means more shipping and handling... Shipping firms like FedEx, DHL etc. are notorious for handling packages very roughly and there are countless examples of battered up boxes and more or less broken contents out there... I myself would probably go for ordering from UM directly

Aren't we all Drayson, aren't we all... My problem is that the easiest part of any mod is typically ordering the mod/replacement parts off ebay

Hi there, you should be able to find a glass plate that fits the dimensions either from one of the many reprap shops around or a glass/window shop somewhere, probably much cheaper than from ultimaker too

Ultimaker keeps all their stuff open source (just released all design files for the um2), this mean larger community capaple of tweaking, adding to and improving the printer (just have a look in these forums under eg. "modifications and hacks" ), for a long foreseeable future... To me that is a great selling point in comparison to other more closed source manufacturers.

Interesting... though sad to hear about the lack of noise reduction... Perhaps the extruder is the worst? Any particular reason you only replaced the drivers for x y? Apart from obviously saving money...

so you only swapped drivers for the x and y stepper? Not the z and the extruder? Which ones did you get? The purple ones from pololu?

If you have a Ulticontroller (otherwise... get one, you won't regret it) you can use the "preheat PLA" option

Alright cool And the bed heating works fine on bang bang? I had actually started sourcing parts for my own HB build before discovering this kit and so have already bought that exact PSU (or one very similar) and also a buck to turn the voltage for the UM down to 19V while leaving the power for the bed at 24... I also have a SSR that I was hoping could switch fast enough to leve bed mode at PWM/PID(which is it?, I have not messed with it before), and also get rid of any clicking sounds from a relay... but if it works fine on Bang Bang there is no need to stress my SSR

nice! I also just bought the kit and have some questions... What did you do in terms of firmware? does the bed run PWM or BangBang? do you have anything to measure temp. (like an ir thermometer) to say anything about how your firmware solution and temp reads correspond with actual temp.? do you use the psu as a secondary for only the bed or does the printer run on it as well?

Im not sure i understand... do you have a picture? sounds wierd rhat it cant come back down if it could go up?

warrenty on my machine is long gone anyways... have been sourcing parts for my own HB upgrade, but now I almost have to try this...