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Everything posted by anon4321

  1. What do the 2100 have over the 260s? How will you use these with the UMO electronics?
  2. Hmmm, I would think it uses the Arduino bootloader for the equivalent Arduino board that has the same MCU since Cura is able to update both the UM2 and UMO. Possibly the bootloader for the Arduino Mega 2560 R3 which is used in the UMO? Is the MCU an ATMEGA?
  3. Does it get better if you slow the speed of the print of the first layer way down? I usually use something are 10mm/s. On some prints it helps to print the first layer hotter which you can do by setting the extruder temp higher and then reduce it with the TweakAtZ plugin. Finally, for prints with lots of small detail on the first layer, use hairspray (sprayed into a paper towel and then wiped on the (cold is better) glass) or glue stick. If helps the extruded filament stick quicker and with it and a slower speed and hotter first layer temp, smaller details print better.
  4. AS far as I know, the g-code generated isn't specific to the operation such as "skirt". It's all instructions to squirt hot plastic out of the nozzle. So if it printed on a UM it should print on a MakerBot. The one difference might be retraction. In some gcode generation mods, cura will emit a different code for retraction and then the printer's firmware determines how far and fast to retract.
  5. To be honest, the rest of the print doesn't look that good. What is the layer height and material? The layers are very obvious. Even the other larger radius towards the right doesn't look very good. Could be a material or temp or flow problem.
  6. Just note that the SlientStepperStick has a fairly significant ground plane and you need to put a good amount of heat into the ground pins and trace before the solder will flow... PS: I like the hakko soldering products like the FX888D which I own. A little expensive but think of it has an investment if you are into electronics. I've also been using SparkFun's "special blend" lead free solder: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10242 It works well. However, it has a notably "dull" finish that looks like a cold joint so you need to understand the difference (see my pics).
  7. Sander, wanted to note that I got my order 3 days after your assistance. Thank you very much for your help! handyman, your extrusion test looks AWESOME and perfect...
  8. In the advance tab, there is a first layer line width. Reducing that might help some but it reduces it for the entire layer so infill may not completely "touch". Precise leveling calibration is critical to not having the elephant foot. It's also important to have the nozzle primed to the right pressure. Change the skirt count to something like 5 so the pressure can equalize before the actual part is printed. Also, I've been play with gears a lot. You can get a better result by putting a small bevel on the teeth so the first few layers aren't actually part of the teeth so that the "ele
  9. The first question is can you verify the printer can physically move throughout the whole range? Just because Cura won't slice the maximum volume doesn't mean the product page is wrong. I don't have a UM2, can you manually move the axes? If so start at the home position and verify the product specs match the printer's physical capabilities. If so then we can work on why Cura won't slice the max volume.
  10. I'm not sure the G4 command works with this but you can try: M140 S70 ; set bed temp (doesn't wait) G4 S15 ; wait 15 secs. M104 S210 ; set nozzle temp (doesn't wait) M190 S70 ; set bed temp (waits) M109 S210 ; set nozzle temp (waits) Alternatively, just set the nozzle temp to a safe "holding value" like 140. M140 S70 ; set bed temp (doesn't wait) M104 S140 ; set nozzle temp (doesn't wait) M190 S70 ; set bed temp (waits) M109 S210 ; set nozzle temp (waits)
  11. What I did was: Use an old arduino header *across* the carrier so one pin from each header was stuck in it at the correct distance so they remain parallel Solder one pin at one end of each header Check for straightness and reheat the one pin and adjust. Solder the other pin at the opposite end of the header in each side. Using a pair of needlenose pliers, while pressing the black header spacer up to the board so it doesn't break, I yank out the 3 CNF pins. Then I solder all the pins except the CNF pins. The using some silicone wire, I strip a bear minimum like 3mm and insert into the CN
  12. You might get a better idea of the changes by looking at the commits in github here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Marlin (click the commits towards the top left). The issue is that many commits are merges from other branches which could have 10s-100s of commits. I don't think there are many major improvements or fixes that are "must haves". Development has started up on the original marlin branch and lots of things are being fixed and added. You might wait until Daid merges those (if he does). I've personally contributed two features: Ability to set the printer in volumetric mode a
  13. Anything similar in this feature already in the firmware? It is specifically commented out in the UM version of the FW. //automatic temperature: The hot end target temperature is calculated by all the buffered lines of gcode. //The maximum buffered steps/sec of the extruder motor are called "se". //You enter the autotemp mode by a M109 S<mintemp> B<maxtemp> F<factor> // the target temperature is set to mintemp+factor*se[steps/sec] and limited by mintemp and maxtemp // you exit the value by any M109 without F* // Also, if the temperature is set to a value <mintemp
  14. Wow, nice job. You really have them tucked in. I'll have to think about this. The "ribbon" type seem to really tuck up in there.... Thanks to both of you for the pics.
  15. I don't think it was a TEMP4. Even the original version only had 3 temp inputs: http://reprap.org/wiki/Ultimaker%27s_v1.0_PCB
  16. Actually being able to measure the Vin is handy. Throw in a current sensors resistor so we can get amps and power too. I'm not sure the ratio is good. Seems like it would only provide about an .85 V input which sounds low.
  17. As near as I can tell, this isn't mapped in Marlin but I'm not 100% sure...
  18. I'll check those out. I like that they are somewhat hidden. I think it would be pretty easy just mount them on top on hanging below the 8mm rods but I'd like to tuck them away some...
  19. Actually, Marlin's out-of-level compensation is pretty good but use need have have low backlash in the Z axis otherwise ir would reduce layer quality. A truly level bed is always better. I'm working on a physical bed sensor using a tiny servo, photo-interrupter and well a stick so it is as light as possible and requires the bare minimum of force. I'm hoping it will have very high repeatability.
  20. One big problem with all those types of sensors is they either don't have the accuracy or the repeatability can be affected by environmental changes. For example, the speed of sound changes with temperature so an ultrasonic sensor would be affected by a heated bed or a large swing in room temp. The printrbot metal has an inductive sensor but they have significantly reduced range on nonferrous material like the UM2's ALU bed. So you need to use a bigger sensor which has significant weight. More weight on the head slows the top printing speed due to the weight causing ringing at hard chang
  21. Can those that have done this mod take pics of how they mounted the lights? I need some ideas on they best way.... Also, don't mess with heat sinks and linear regulators.... While probably 20x the cost but still only like 9 euros, don't waste power as heat and get a 12V/1A version of these: http://www.recom-power.com/pdf/Innoline/R-78Bxx-1.0_L.pdf The part number for the 12V - 1A (12 watt) version is R-78B12-1.0 Based on the app note, no caps are needed for an input of 19V.
  22. Try http://fbrc8.com/collections/ultimaker-2-spare-parts
  23. I've had good luck with hairspray and 75c bed when printing XT which think is PET
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