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Everything posted by zoev89

  1. HA I figured it out. There must have been a error in coping the data to the SD card.... When I have M190 S115 M109 S250 it correctly waits until the headedbed warms up and only starts heating up the nozzle when the bed is warm.
  2. For those with a V6 hotend, how is your experience with PLA printing? Did you have jams? I am thinking of buying a V6 unless I find a good glue to glue small parts printed in PLA without discolouring it. It is quite invasive to modify the printer to use a V6 hotend.
  3. Nice idea and I guess printing strawbees should not be so difficult...
  4. True 115 is not low that is why it is taking about 15 minutes. I need to compensate for the 4 mm glas plate and I am printing ABS. Marlin has no issues with this temp I already did 125 for a experiment some time ago.
  5. When I look at the generated gcode I see that the values are correctly taken over like M190 S115 M0 ;Pause M109 S250 I am still looking into the version. Try to connect the machine to the PC again but I am running ubuntu so there are some libusb acces rights to fix before it works I guess. I programmed it at that time on windows xp.....
  6. Which version that is a good question but how to get that info... I took it from http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/ In may 2014 I can't get info or the version from the controller. The build_summary.txt at that time does not show a version number. There is the hex file but that does no help me much I guess. I feel so stupid that I don't know hot to get the version number.... I saved the diff files for future reference.
  7. I am using a UM original with a heated bed. It takes some time to heat-up the bed so what I usually do is manually heat the bed with control->temperature->bed to avoid having my nozzle heated up all the time while the bed is warming up. Then I start a print. Being a lazy guy I would like to do this in the startup code. So I enabled the M190 S{print_bed_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line M109 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line lines in the start code. According to the documentation M190 S code waits for the bed temperatur
  8. Also my syringe takes a lot of fraction to operate. That could also be a cause of the grinding. I am more thinking using air pressure to operate it so it will not effect the filament at all. Air pressure I have for my airbrush. There are quite some examples to be found. In order to do this I need to find the right parts....
  9. Using those cooler packs you use for camping might better. Those remain cool for a long time.
  10. Hi All, In light of the recent ultimaker event I create this topic so we can combine our experiences with chocolate printing. My current status is that I have not yet printed chocolate but am in the process of preparing. It started with printing the parts which can be found here https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-syringe-extruder-ii Since I have a 60ml syringe (100ml is hard to get) I printed the middel file. Actually I updated the sketchup file to repair the bottom part so it can print without repairing the bottom in Cura. In this case you will have clean holes through the bottom
  11. Well they also videoed the previous meeting.... So I am quite curious what is happing with that material. Thanks to the photos of Blizz I was able to figure out how to mount the parts that I printed today. The parts that I printed during the event did not fit... The small converter print for the thermocoupler is in the way,
  12. +1 The forum is great but getting a overview on all the good tips and trick takes hours.. A wiki would help quite bit.
  13. A ice pack or some of those freeze packs used for camping will probably work as-well. You will increase the homing position so you have to take care of that. Actually Joris showed a image with a freezer pack on the build plate. He mentioned that he just pushes the limit switch by hand and did the z fine tuning during the print. The sketchup model has some limit switch models. So lots of possibilities to overcome that small issue.
  14. @Xeno I think you would have to preheat the hagelslag. Don't put chocolate through your nozzle it is much so small for it!!
  15. This is the link with the parts https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-syringe-extruder-ii Use the sketchup file since the stl's did not fit on my UM original. Note there are errors in the sketchup files needing repair. Fix part A you have to uncheck if I am not mistaken in Cura. Check all the holes if they go through.
  16. Joris also suggested to put the printer in the kitchen where you have all the tools for creating and cleaning chocolate mess. Actually start with chocolate paste like you put on your sandwich. This does not have the cooling issues. Next step would practice with 'koetjes reep' (don't know the English word it is actually not chocolate but looks like it). Joris practiced in a chocolate factory. When using chocolate he also mentioned having a heat gun at hand set at about 60 degrees is very handy since the 'nozzle' clogs quite quickly. The chocolate itself does not get solid so quickly.
  17. I have been working on my model railway track. I am building a station. This project has its ups and downs (working on it for 3 years now). One of the obstacles was how to get transparent plastic into the framework. After buying the UM I have been able to solve this problem. I made small U forms that can hold the glass and can be glued in the frame. Here is de first result: Only the glass frames are printed the rest was still handwork. For the building I will be using more printed parts.
  18. My experiment failed probably due to the unknown plastic that needed welding. I tried glueing but it was not strong enough. A plastic wheel where you sit on must have some strength....
  19. Hi Drayson, That is a nice gcode hack. can you also publish your 3point levelling? Then I can compare them and modify to my printer. i also have 3point levelling but my likely my locations are the other way around. I have 2 points in the back and 1 on the front... Thanks
  20. I tried friction welding yesterday and it didn't work. My part that I wanted to weld was to thin so I melted trough. Also the plastic did not want to stick. I don't know the type of plastic it was made of. Both PLA and ABS did not weld. I guess if both parts are PLA or ABS it might work but it requires some skill. My first attempt I broke the filament because 20.000 rpm was to much.
  21. I don't think that printing chocolate will be controlled by the computer. Otherwise Blizz will be in trouble with his UM2 (can't print from a computer).
  22. Hi Titus, Can you print from SD card? In that case not having a laptop will not be an issue I think, You only need the data on your SD card. I will bring my laptop writing 2 sd cards will not be an issue. I am coming from the Eindhoven area so I can't help on the transport issue.
  23. I solved the clog... Atomic metod did not work, filament kept breaking at the top. Removed the nozzle (i have a um original). Tried first with a heath gun at 300 degrees to remove the material. Did not work. Then I torched it with my soldering burner. Could not remove enough material out of the nozzle. Then I soaked it with aceton. With a cloth i was able to remove enough abs so that I had the impression it will work again. The printer just finished a pla print. In the process I also cleaned the bodentube and the extruder. Al in al quite some work but the machine is operational again.....
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