zoev89

The vertical dotted line is a in model travel move. No retraction is caried out. I don't know if you can influence this in expert mode. Since it is done in the infill area not much harm is done. It is quicker to not retract so that is likely the idea behind it. I don't know what the problem is with the first layer fotoos. The thing that I see is a flow that did not stabelize in the beginning. Correct me if I am wrong..

Ik ontvet met spiritus maar ik verdenk dat het toch niet zo goed gaat. Ik probeer zoveel mogelijk van het platform af te blijven maar ik toch regelmatig dat de boel los laat. Zonder prit gaat het eigenlijk niet betrouwbaar en met prit duurt het ongeveer 1 week en dan is het mis. Misschien is mijn laag prit te dun. Ik veeg meestal wat heen en weer en smeer uit met een kwast met wat water voor een mooie verdeling.

I bought it to be able to print small things. Printing a vase would be like 100% disaster. But on H0 scale trains it might be useful. Haven't tried it out yet, I have print jobs for the next months. Don't dare to run the printer when I am not at home. And for the night it makes too much noise....

I think of coming too but I already have a 0.25, 0.4 and a 0.6 nozzle. So I don't have to drill.

I have connected it with the spare wires of the second hotend for dual extrusion. I connect the other end to a separate 12V power supply (the fan is 12v in my case) which is operational even when I power off the machine. I let it run until the hotend (v6 in my case) is cooled below 50 degrees). My setup is 24V power which power everything 24V->19V dc dc converter for the umo power 24V->12V dc dc converter for 12V fans 24V heated bed

I did a print once with 0.3mm layer on my UMO. Had quite some under extrusion (was in a hurry) but in my case the output was usable.

I tried to do some post processing on PLA with a heath gun but was not very successful. If the part is thin then it easily deforms and typically you will not get it back without squashing the layers. So if you have a gap fill it up and sand it. If you can paint the object then those imperfections can be eliminated. I would try to use a fair amount of brim lines to make sure it keeps to the build plate. Raft as you said would make it ugly.

It was surly a nice meeting getting to know the faces behind all the posts that some people make. And having some beers to try out as well. Thanks to the organization. :cool:

If it is not too far from central station in Utrecht I can get there, since I will be going to Eurospoor on the same day which is in the Jaarbeurs.

I don't own a UM2 but likely you can adjust the pullies so they don't come in contact with the frame. Tighten them well.

Here is a drawing of my station that I am building. The printer builds the profiles that I need for the construction. I don't use the printer for everything. The design is 'stolen' from lehrter bahnhof in Berlin.I adapt it to my needs and possibilities. It will take a long time before it will be finished. First I need to build the raw structure and then the details which will take years. Currently I started on 1 of the 2 buildings.

Printing is fine again. I went to 220 degrees (PLA) with the added sunflower oil. Under extrusion is solved. I also increased the flow a little to 104% since I had little holes where large areas needed to be filled in. The oil prevents the sticking to the heatsink. How long will the oil hold that is the big unknown. Up to now it is running 6 hours without issues.

When using other then UM filament make sure it has 2.85 diameter! If it is not specified or the spec is only 3.0 then it is questionable if it works.

I have put some sunflower oil in the hotend and will see if it will bring something. Manually I think it is a little better but I have to see how it behaves in the long run. I can't print tonight though since one of the kids want to sleep and an UMO does make some sound. No I have not printed with XT yet. I don't have a object that would require it at this moment though I have XT laying around.

De brim zal dan niet optimaal zijn maar de zijkanten worden dan wel ondersteunt. Dit zal mogelijk toch iets doen aan wrapping. Is misschien een mogelijkheid als de ventilator tunning niet helpt. Kan je nog iets winnen met adhesion? Pritstift of heb je die al gebruikt. Ik zie bij mij dat de prit laag meestal maar een paar prints meegaat. Sommige mensen hebben daar meer geluk...

Wat voor materiaal print je? Ventilator terug schroeven is een optie want de layer tijd voor afkoelen is toch lang genoeg. Je kunt natuurlijk kan je ook een brim gebruiken.

I can be completely wrong.... Did you try to disconnect the wires from the build plate to diagnose where the short is? Be careful not to pull the connector of the board since it is surface mounted.

Well I printed with ultimaker blue PLA and ultimaker black ABS. Both printed fine even though the spools were quite far used. It looks like the gummy surface is playing up on this hotend. Jonny what is your experience with the v6 sofar. It does not jam or block. It first starts to under extrude but there is still flow but to little to be useful.

I have some under extrusion issues printing with colorfabb grey PLA on the e3d v6. The colorfabb filament has some textured surface and this is causing friction in the aluminum heatsink. After doing quite some prints with this filament the filament is more bent and it looks like it is pressing against the walls of the heatsink. Due to the surface it causes quite some friction. I can clearly feel it when I insert filament by hand. I have the hotend cold and I can push the filament to the nozzle but it does not go smoothly down. This extra friction I believe causes under extrusion or grinding on the extruder. The nozzle is clean I can see right true and when I remove extruded filament atomic way it is clean and the nozzle is clearly visible in the filament.

Ze zijn wel zo goed dat ze een specificatie achterlaten 2.85 +- 0.1mm. Is een spec waar je mee vooruit kunt. Colorfab geeft meestal 0.05mm dus daar zit mogelijk het prijs verschil.

What kind of advise do you need? Printing a hood like he has a little smaller could be done apart from the maximum size the printer can do.

Printing metal would be a no no. You can print with PLA with a high degree of bronz like bronzfill or metalfill. The object is still PLA but it has more the looks of metal after post processing. It does not conduct electricity.

Which printer UM2 or UMO? Did you try atomic removal? Did you try putting a needle or a thin wire in the nozzle when hot?

You split your design per color and slice the colors separately. Then you print each color. In these prints the colors are only the bottom layer + maybe 1 additional layer. You print the last overlapping color to the full thickness. In this way you can create multiple colors on only 1 side of the object (the bottom). For badges or other small flat objects this works well. When you use a heated bed you have to make sure that the bed does not cool-down when changing the color otherwise your object will come loose.

Thanks, My son is recovering. He is home and sleeps a lot.