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solid-print-3d

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Everything posted by solid-print-3d

  1. I guess this could be considered practical. clamps that needed to have a specific jaw profile, as well as having a 1/4 x 20 tap. They turned out unbelievably strong.
  2. @ Arian, does that printed cooling fan housing work better than the stock steel?
  3. go into expert settings in Cura expert tab> open expert settings (or ctrll+E) . Go to bottom right and uncheck "combine everything (type A). Go back and look at the model in layer view, moving up through the layers to see if it's going to print the holes now. It's a good habit to look through your layers before every print to see how it's going to print. For instance, there may be times when you want 100% fill, but accidentally have it set to 20%. If you look through your layers, you'll catch things like that before wasting valuable time on a print. It also may be the .stl itself is faulty. Have you tried to run it through netfab? In case you are unfamiliar, it's a free program that fixes .stl files for you...really helps when trying to print models from inferior cad/design programs. here's the link to netfab https://netfabb.azurewebsites.net/ if it's something else post back and I'll try to help
  4. "we would much rather prefer that news be published about such encouraging developments as e-NABLE, a 3D printing community that makes 3D printed prosthetics." This is an excerpt from an email I got concerning the posting of 3D printed weapons on Youmagine. Specifically a Polymer pistol grip I posted, but I digress. I thought it would be cool to share this video I just received from a customer. This is his daughter, Emma. She has brittle bone disease. She wants to be able to join in the fun with people when they shoot their bows. Moral of the story, even 3D printed weapons can benefit the disabled here's a poor quality animated gif if you can't view the video file
  5. hard to tell if it's getting darker from an updated side by side (probably just me), but it's freaking dark for sure... I took the original with my iphone so I couldn't lock in aperture and shutter speed to compare mathematically in photoshop. I did do that this time To even out the brightness, I have to set the older UM2 to 25%
  6. Yeah..........$38 for a 3/8" x 1" piece. I think DuPont must be using a particle collider to manufacture this stuff, micrograms at a time. I'll wait and see how your test comes, 3PORO. If it's the ticket to fixing problems and being able to raise heat to print exotics, I'll definitely get some.
  7. If they're thicker than stock, how's that working out for you when the head parks/homes? Are the thermo wires being pressed against the metal shield?
  8. Yes I can still dim the lights, but it's really a narrow window. I either have kinda dark, really dark, or off. It might be my imagination, but the lights seem to be getting darker as time goes on. I'll have to do another side by side photo recreating all the variables to see if I'm losing it it's really not that big a deal to me, just thought I'd share with the Ultimaker team in case they start running into this problem more often, they'll have an idea of what's going on.
  9. Am I missing something? Have you guys found a magical fairy that sells Vespel at prices you would normally see on planet earth? Are you married to a DuPont engineer and get free samples? This stuff is outrageous! I think silver, pound for pound, is cheaper.... I'd really like to turn one, any links to small rods that I won't have to sell my first born to buy?
  10. you mean, like this? https://www.ultimaker.com/products/integrated-nozzle-heater-block-3mm-filament
  11. No, I ordered from the NL's. I was saying the "what are the odds" thing becasue i too thought it would have to be the whole lot, certainly not just 2 strips. If that were the case, others would have chimed in, surely, stating their LED's were not bright. But that doesn't seem to be the case....hence "what are the odds" I just thought I'd bring it up to Ultimaker becasue if it was an entire lot, it's easy to miss until they compare that lot side by side with another lot, or older UM2's.
  12. both strips faulty? what are the odds... I'd love some brighter led's, thanks
  13. I wold love for someone to put together a step-by-step instructional on how they got their UM2 to print above 260. I'll definitely be watching this closely
  14. I wish my desk was that clean killer model
  15. Zeni Kinetic sucks! OK, maybe that will scare some people off. I just went to order my monthly supply of zeni PLA, and they were out! So I hate to tell you that it's great stuff, cuz you guys here in the states will keep buying it all up, and it will always be sold out! Joking aside, Zeni is one of my favorites. It's consistent. it extrudes nice and creamy, it's bold and non translucent, and it's affordable... $30 a roll with free shipping (on orders over $50 I believe) Yes, it is a bit larger. Here is what I'm using Diameter set to 2.91mm Temp set to 205 (for .1mm, 200 for <.1mm) heated bed 45 (I use the general dollar store purple hairspary, it's the absolute best stuff I've tried) fans 100% retraction 5mm The stuff is awesome. Unfortunately, their inventory is always changing... I got some pink a couple of months back, and it was the best shade of pink I've seen yet...but now they don't have it. The orange I sometimes have trouble with... might just be me. The purple is really good. Basically all their stuff is spot on, but like I said, sometimes I have some issues with my spool of orange. I don't like their ABS though. It's too glossy for my liking, and it pops a lot when extruding. I also found my rolls to vary in diameter more than the PLA. I'm on my first roll of IC3D ABS, and I really like it. Nice satin finish, very consistent., lower print temps. It's $3 more than the zeni, but I think it's worth it. So in short, Zeni PLA Sucks! Don't buy it! Stay away from it!
  16. Getting new rods, as it appears some of the rods are not true. There are grinding marks on the rods as well from manufacturing. Once Simon sends the new rods, I'm sure all will be well. I have one printer with the collar tightened all the way down, and one printer where it is relaxed. I will run them like this for a while and see results for myself first hand. I did just have to debur my newest UM2's teflon for the second time! no big deal. Just wished I had a bag of the darn things so I can just put a fresh one on every time I have the head apart.
  17. why settle on just one? This is my top drawer of tools that I go to most often.
  18. I don't mind giving away the files for the large bow. You can't print it (and expect it to work). If you grab the step file of the bow, it's a good starting point, but you'll need to change about 99% of the parts for print. As well as scale. Again, it is a really good starting point though, and it's my way of saying thanks to people who give back to the online communities like GrabCad and Ultimaker
  19. I designed it. No you can't download it anywhere, but I have posted a free step file of the real bow (large) on GrabCad for active GrabCad members. I'll make those available for Active/contributing Ultimaker members as well if you need a step file of a compound bow. https://grabcad.com/library/compound-bow-hoyt-charger-1
  20. EDIT on the nylon- I used some nylon that was exposed to humidity for a while, and it didn't work that great. It did work, just not as good as the fresh nylon. Since Nylon absorbs moisture very well, I think the moisture turned to steam in the hot end and made the filament rather "aerated" , It kept breaking when I pulled. So make sure the Nylon isn't full of moisture for best results, Also, My Nylon measures in at 3mm. Pretty much the limit for the UM2. If your insulator is worn, it may be very difficult to use Nylon (possibly other materials as well) in a cold pull. I had to debur one of my UM2's insulators to get the cold pull to work, so keep an eye out for that as well. I would also recommend not doing the cold pull with the head moved to the middle of the build. Keep it in one of the corners so if you have to pull up with force, you're not bending your XY rods.
  21. The new 14.09 firmware is supposed to cut the power to the feeder, so you can change with closed feeders now as well... haven't tried it yet, but it sounds good
  22. that mower is bad ass! Nice and simple... Keep up the good work!
  23. Robert, The "build your own jet engine" project I designed for GE did the same thing. Just took off once it was featured. Posting on youmagine doesn't quite yield the same results (or anywhere near it yet) Take that Ducati for example. That is a SICK model. Yet it only has about 45 likes and 4000 downloads. If it was featured on thingiverse, it may have 10X as many likes, and double the downloads. Not to mention just flat out more traffic, exposing the designer to a broader audience. And the youmagine notifications are a pain. I just delete the emails now, and check on the comments later in the day when I have time to kill.
  24. Hey, I'm just saying... The Japanese companies usually know what they're doing, and with a big chemical company like Mitsubishi getting behind a filament, it can only be good. Sparking competition between other large chemical companies, driving prices down, increasing quality etc... The marketing could use some work though
  25. Both my fans on my printers are pretty loud. I have them in their own room, and have to keep the door closed so I don't hear a constant buzz. I'm pretty sure the noise is created by the vibrations they create throughout the chassis of the printer as a whole, turning it into a little drum, or speaker, if you will. Maybe the fans are not balanced... Maybe some people are lucky and get a more balanced fan than others... I dunno. For now.... I'll just keep the door closed
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