solid-print-3d

Awesome, thanks a lot Daid, And thanks for all the hard work you guys put into Cura. I design models for customers, who often have Makerbots, so I have to load models into Makerware to test, and make sure they can print it fine, etc. I honestly don't see how makerbot owners do it. So yeah, keep up the good work

the files are not available... we sell these as model kits becasue demand does not justify expensive tooling for injection molding at this time. We've got a crossbow model kit coming out soon as well. Here are my 2 brothers shooting their Gen 1's (previous picture posted is of a Gen 2, and we're selling the Gen 3's now)

3D printed compund bow. Everything is printed but the strings carbon arrows, and harware shoots 20 meters

I'm still waiting for Verbatim to hit the US with their filaments. http://www.3ders.org/articles/20140817-verbatim-enters-3d-printing-filament-market.html

OK, wordpad was much nicer. Worked like a charm, so yeah, notepad bad will this also work for 14.09? Thanks Daid

DO Polycarbonate! and HIPS! Please

well, it didn't work for me... In notepad, I opened mainwindow.py and deleted the line "self.timer.Start(1000)" When I tried to open Cura, it hangs on the blue splash screen. Luckily, I remembered to back up mainwindow.py What did I do wrong? Can you not use windows text editor to make those edits..

I found a new method that seems to work very good. I heat the nozzle up to about 250, insert Nylon (I have 645 but I'm sure other nylon would work too). Push the nylon through until I'm sure the head is nice and full. Then I let cool down to 30~50 C or so. Then I heat BACK up pulling on the filament while it's heating. I think it has something to do with the filament cooling down almost completely and when heating back up, the surface of the filament inside the nozzle heats up before the core, so the core retains its shape and wedges gunk out really well. Combined with the slipperiness of the nylon, it makes for a nice 1-time clean pull.

Skint, I hear you... My brother and I both do 3D work. He's a blender, Zbrush guy, I'm an engineering guy. My brain gets fired trying to model really organic stuff that is on the artistic side, his brain gets fried when the parts need to be dimensioned and work in moving parts with tolerances and loads. Guess there's 2 sides to every coin

I'm still waiting for the prices to go down on the teflon insulators myself. I feel it should be considered a consumable item, meant to be replaced once it starts to become worn. I mean, the part is THE fastest wearing part on the machine from what I've seen first hand. If I buy 1 insulator right now, it would cost me $63.81 with shipping. .........yeah....... I'd be happy with a bag full of the old ones at $3.00 a piece so I can always have a fresh insulator in the machine. That's just my take on it though... Maybe it will be different when fbrc8 starts stocking parts (if they do)

If you're trying to balance strength with quicker print times, you could use the "pause at Z" function to drop in inexpensive metal supports, such as brackets. Basically, you design hollow voids into the part that would accept the metal supports. In Cura, under plugins, you would tell it to pause at the layer just before it covers those voids. Printer pauses, you drop in your metal supports, hit resume, and the printer prints over the metal brackets, sealing them in permanently. Best of both worlds, quicker print times because you don't need to go to the extremes with fill and shell %, and excellent strength from the metal supports (as well as not actually having to mount the metal supports since they are completely integrated) anyways... it's just a thought

Nallath, you get an "A" for effort! Thanks Daid, I will try that.

Yes, It's starting to become rather annoying... probably becasue I always have about 6 instances of Cura running on the workstation. I'll copy something for emails, etc, and get the error warning which forces the Cura error window to pop up.

That looks like it could be printed in segments and assembled.

Guess I'll go loosen my teflon isolators a little and see how they print. If all is well I'll keep them loose. The logic is sound in that lighter spring tension would ease the deformation of the teflon, I was just worried that retraction might start to fight the softer spring and cause problems...

at 10:20 in the video, I noticed this UM2 is setup like the new UM2 I just got, in that the steel collar isn't tightened all the way down. This is apparent becasue the hot end is sticking out the bottom more, as well as there is not much of a gap between the teflon and steel collar. Is this the intended configuration? Are you not required to tighten the collar to the brass block all the way?

The image shows my 6 month old UM2 on the left. It's LED's are set to 50%! The UM2 on the right is my brand new UM2, LED set to 100% A step in the wrong direction there Ultimaker, using a different LED strip I understand there were issues with the strips coming loose, but to fix the problem by reducing light output by more than 50% doesn't seem right? (closer to about 75% cut in output) I print 24 hours a day, so I am checking in on the printers at night, in a dark room... just drives me nuts that my brand new UM2's lights are so poor

was amazed these even turned out, so I thought I'd share. They are smaller in person, and look better too. Hard to photograph micro prints like this.

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7284-furry-prints-how-to-get-rid-of-the-hair/

Yeah, and it goes on thin, you still get that glass smooth look with no distortion like you can get with thicker glues or layers of hairspray... Just make sure you try THIS brand, just like the picture. Like I said, I've tried several brands of so-called "Maximum" hold hairspray , but there's just something different about this.

I'm telling you guys, spray this for 3 seconds into a folded paper towel, wipe onto glass like your cleaning the glass with it, and you're good to go with PLA... It's $2.50 at any General Dollar store in the states. I've tried several brands...this is something totally different. I think it's so cheap, that it's just glue and propellant... no anti friz crap or perfumes... It even cleans the the glass, so no build up, as it dissolves any of the previous layers it touches. I also no longer print with brim, I am able to lower the heated bed temp to reduce elephant footing, and I haven't had to clean the glass since I started using it. I have YET to have any corners lift. I did find that it did not work that well with ABS, at least not as good as the slurry I usually use, but I have yet to find anything that works this good, and I doubt I ever will.

that's an impressive print

Scratch that! After tightening the loose steel collar, I also re-leveled the bed, and changed the first layer height to .3mm in Cura becasue of some advice from iluminarti. I've been printing a couple of the same small objects in the center of the platform with .3mm first layer, and the problem looked like it went away. Today, I needed to print something with a .2mm first layer...low and behold, the problem came back...or should I say, it never went away, but the .3mm first layer hid it well. I believe it's effecting the fill as well, as some areas of the print are nice and tight lined, while some have slight gaps. (not an extrusion problem I'm pretty sure, becasue it seems to happen in the same spots of larger prints) I'd like to post some pictures, but thought I'd ask here first... maybe there's a pattern I can print, or something, that diagnoses the problem. I started another large square, but it just looks like the original image I posted.

+1

Yes, 3.1.2, That's interesting.... I guess I need to tweak filament diameter instead of adjusting flow... Also, I always use Tweak At Z in pairs, one tweak for the layers, another to set it back to normal, in other words, layer 30 would be 110%, layer 31 would go back to 100% ....SO.... If I go back to "normal" I guess a filament that is using 102% in the UM2 menu, would revert to 100% becasue of Tweak At Z....