eldrick

If you use the TinkerGnome firmware, you can view (and set) it directly on the display...

Note that you will have to realign the pulleys to accommodate the shift in position with the dampers.

Yes, it is not identical.

TinkerGnome just posted v16.03 of his excellent firmware, and it no longer makes the BondTech scream and stall on the fast retraction when you use Change Filament.

Plan on finishing the holes with a primitive subtractive manufacturing tool called a "drill," using a hole-size adapter known as a "drill-bit".

I use a front cover, and it quiets the UM2 a bit.

If you use Kisslicer, you can specify where you want the seam to be placed (or use truly random placement).

I use it for a non-slip surface on the sport fencing pommels I manufacture.

I, too, am very pleased with the 1.99 features. In fact I am manufacturing a product using it, for the Fuzzy Surface feature.

To determine whether it is the coupler, remove it and inspect. If it isn't smooth and clear inside the hole, use a 1/8" drill bit and open it up. Replace. If the coupler was the issue, you just solved the problem temporarily (then buy a new coupler or two).

Or maybe he should have read the specs before he invested $3K in a printer?

What you are calling a firmware mod is a simple parameter change. Two aspects: - Setting the E-steps is two gcode commands. BondTech provides a gcode file that does this by "printing" it to the printer. - The only other thing involved is the speed of the fast retraction when you use Change Filament. However, you don't need to do anything, because you will be changing filament using the release lever on the BondTech, and simply pulling the filament out - much faster than the filament retraction. So do not do anything about this. As to concerns about changing the original firmware, I can't imagine ever using it again. TinkerGnome's version is so much superior it makes the original seem a toy. BTW, switching back to original takes one command in Cura and 15 seconds to reload, if you are concerned.

The specification sheet for the Ultimakers states: MATERIALS System Open filament system Filament diameter 2.85 mm What on earth made you think it would work with a different size filament?

I've been running PLA at 12 cubic mm/sec for days on end using the BondTech, with no underextrusion or other issues. On this project, I've already printed 7kg at this speed. There is no way my previous |Robert's| feeder could manage this.

Cura and other slicers use the same external wall thickness around holes as around the outside. I'd love to hear of a better solution, but the only method I've seen mentioned is to make several parallel very small (fraction of a mm) holes surrounding the hole you want to reinforce. The tiny holes will each get their own wall, and those will merge around the main hole for a thicker wall around it. (I haven't personally experimented with this.)

One consideration is that S3D is copy-protected, and as a result, if your system configuration changes at all, even system updates, you will be forced to re-install it over and over again, including re-entering a long passcode. I found this so offensive and annoying that I tossed S3D.

I second the conclusion, although, since I used a UM2 version on a UM2, I did not have any of the installation glitches that the O.P. reported. I also designed a mounting bracket that moves the feeder to the left of the UM2, for a left-side spool holder. (on Youmagine)

Best UM2 fan shroud design of the half-dozen that I've tried.

My feeder/heater can do 12cu.mm/sec continuously, so I'm certain that this is not an issue of feeding limitations.

For the fitting, you could also simply use Kisslicer, where the Style / Inset Surface setting can tweak the size slightly to allow more clearance. Or. of course, just adjust the Flow of plastic.

I am personally convinced that there is a bug in Cura's infill processing. I have had several prints that looked very much like the first pictures, at 25% infill. Instead of continuous lines, the infill was more like a series of lumpy posts where the lines would have crossed. However 20% infill worked fine, and so did 30%, with no other changes. I'm pretty sure that's not a feeding problem.

We're all hoping that the end result of this is that you proceed to use the printed plastic part as a model for lost-pla metal casting, although I suppose it might be useful as a temporary cap while a crown is made.

The machine restarts and loads the new firmware after Cura loads it. You don't need a reset.

P.S. - BondTech does offer a 1.75mm version.

Read the directions from Ultimaker, and use the glue stick that came with the printer. They included some glue stick with the printer because a) it is usually necessary, and b) it works.