eldrick

Remove the coupler and drill it out with a 1/8" drill bit. Replace it. BTW, I'd suggest more like 210-215C for PLA.

OTOH, a longer Bowden tube can reduce friction, particularly when printing at the near-right corner of the build area. A few inches longer works better. Here's a five-foot length of PTFE which is lower friction than what I rec'd on my early UM2. It is a bit less transparent. Also available in 10-foot lengths. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KJDE67G

Check the firmware version on the machine to make sure the BondTech stuff installed successfully?

Not a biggie, but you if don't use the rear spool holder peg on a UM2, this can help reduce the drafts on the buildplate slightly, and I like the appearance. At Youmagine: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-spool-holder-plug

The BondTech wiring provided makes the stepper rotate in the same direction as original - no need to reverse direction in firmware. I use and highly recommend Tinkergnome's firmware because it is far more usable than the UM version. It lets you set e-steps from the LCD panel on the printer. You could also do so with a couple of commands from Pronterface or a two-line gcode file. (Give BondTech a kick - perhaps he could provide such a file.) The only reason to mess with the firmware for the BondTech is if you have to use the Change Material feature of the printer - the retraction is too fast for the new stepper, making it scream. Solution: don't use Change Material - just release the feeder and pull the filament out. You can even do this during a Pause Print, if you want multicolored pieces. I haven't found any need to clamp down hard on the filament, and I've printed kilos of PLA at 12 cubic mm/sec. with it. It works fine when you can still release the filament with the lever without adjusting the clamping screw.

I didn't bother with marlin changes, as the TinkerGnome's firmware allows you to set the e-steps from the console, and I don't use the UM Change Material feature. I just release the feeder and pull the filament out.

I have the BondTech on a UM2. I've now run 7kg of PLA through it, with no problems at all. See a picture of my installation at https://www.youmagine.com/designs/bondtech-qr-adapter-for-um2 I can't imagine it taking more than a half-hour to install it.

Re. the tightening Olssen block preperly, you don't need that silly wrench, just hold the smooth-sided socket in your fingers, and tighten the nozzle moderately using only the socket. If you try to tighten it too much, your fingers will just slip on the socket.

Try making the walls .41mm or .42mm thick. It's the curves that make the computed thickness slightly too thin, in Cura's view, so it skips the "too-thin" parts.

The 12v fans are in series across a 24v power line, thus not possible to adjust individually. You could, however, buy a couple of aftermarket fans running at different speeds.

Even though the notion of remotely-starting a print is unlikely to be satisfactory due to the unreliability of PC USB to UM2, and the general unreliability of starting 3D prints, you might (emphasis on Might) be able to put a hardware printer buffer between the PC and the printer, send the whole model to the buffer, and get on with life. Something like this: www.downloads.netgear.com/files/GDC/PS121v1/PS121_datasheet_02Mar2004.pdf However, the idea of gcode pushing a print out of the way has been documented by Ultimaker: https://ultimaker.com/en/blog/65-start-your-own-mini-factory-with-autoprints

If you use Tinkergnome's outstanding firmware, you can set the E-steps directly from the front panel.

For those who aren't into DIY, the BondTech QR feeder works incredibly well (at a price). http://www.bondtech.se/ I've recently run 5kg of PLA through my Bondtech, printing at 12mm3/sec. without a single failed print or issue of any kind, and excellent print quality. It's a real treat.

That's all very nice, but what does it DO?

Or use Makergeeks PLA, and you can print on warm dry glass and get a mirror finish on the bottom, and it releases all by itself when it cools.

I should add that this is at 40mm/sec speed, moving 12mm3/sec. of filament. (Bondtech feeder, 35W heater)

The 1mm nozzle works fine at more reasonable layer heights. I'm getting excellent PQ on single-wall "vase" prints at .25mm.

I got the Bondtech three days ago. Easy installation, and I've run 2Kg of PLA through it at 11mm3/sec., with no issues and great print quality.

I received mine this week. So far I've printed 2 Kg of PLA at 11mm3/second, with no issues and great print quality.

Print cooler, with the bed cooler, as I stated above.

Try printing at 235-240, with the bed never hotter than 100C. ABS becomes too thin, and oozes at higher temps, and the idea is to use the Lowest temperature that gives good results, not the highest.

I guarantee I'll never buy another nozzle without the engraved sizes. Trying to guess the size of a dot-marked nozzle with multiple dot-encoding schemes over time is insane.

The build plate is just a piece of glass. Any kitchen detergent can clean it. All you really need to do is to get any oils off the surface.

I've given up on S3D. It offers no real advantages, and the infuriating "installation is corrupted" issues have finally annoyed me to the point of removing it from my system. I won't recommend it to anyone until they remove their idiotic "copy protection" that disables the software almost every time I try to use it.

I've given up on S3D, due to its insane copy-protection scheme. It tells me that its installation files are corrupt almost every time I open it, and it needs to be downloaded and reinstalled yet again to make it work. It's just not worth dealing with this idiocy, so I've tossed the application and will recommend against it until they become less sensitive to changes elsewhere in the system, like system software upgrades and maintenance. Not a bad program, but apparently crippled by company paranoia.