eldrick

Not hairspray, unless you enjoy having it on everything in the room where you spray it. Use the gluestick included with the printer!

I'm surprised no-one mentioned the obvious: use BOLD for the font to thicken everything.

According to everything I've ever read about CF printing, you need a steel .6-1.0 nozzle to avoid extremely rapid wear of the nozzle, if for no other reason. Do some web search on the stuff, and you will find an image of a brass nozzle worn to useless after printing 250g of CF filament. Wiping the nozzle with some silicone lube may also help, by keeping the blob from sticking to the nozzle.

Be aware that a higher-wattage cartridge can also overheat the drivers on the UM board. The board on my UM2 was brown around the drivers even with the original 25w heater, after printing a lot of ABS at ~245C. I'd strongly suggest drilling some holes in the metal electronics cover to improve cooling air circulation if you do go to a 35-40w heater cartridge.

A) Go to Preheat on Tinkergnome's firmware. Heat the bed to material temp, and set the extruder temp to 130 or so, which should be safe with any filament I've used. B) Wait for the bed temp to get to 3-5 degrees below target temp. C) Print the model, with the nozzle already pre-heated. The bed will reach the target temp at about the same time as the print begins. This is all automatable with Kisslicer using simple pre-print gcode and KS' temperature variables.

You could: - In Cura 15, there is a setting Advanced/Initial Layer Line Width, which can do what you are suggesting, by reducing extrusion on the first layer. - Chamfer the bottom edges of the model, i.e. a slight undercut to compensate and give a nice smooth edge instead of a sharp edge around the bottom. - Lower the build platform slightly - try 1/8 turn of each leveling screw,

I personally use Moment of Inspiration: moi3d.com It is based on the paradigms of modifiable geometric objects and booleans. Excellent for making things that work, not so good for organic art.

It would be very difficult to make using it more of a pain in the butt. That's more work than using Slic3r to set the layer heights manually, and Slic3r can do it with any FDM printer. Bad programmer! Bad Job!

You can easily keep plastic from sticking on the outside of nozzles, by wiping the nozzle with a bit of liquid silicone lube. I spray a small amount on a paper towel and wipe it around the tip before starting a print. Start with a new nozzle, and it will stay clean approximately forever. This avoids plastic sticking to the nozzle, cooking until brown, and coming off on the print, a particular issue with ABS.

To answer your question in a word, "no," not without large investment in time and equipment, and you would still get poor quality filament.

I'll stick with my upgraded 2. The feature that could have got my money is larger (honest) build volume, and no change there in the 3

That 35mm difference is the spacing between the nozzles. As to actually filling the advertised build area? You can't, just as on the Ultimaker 2.

It's worst feature it the product page, which takes around 30 seconds to paint the fricking logo - what clown designed that horrid page? Oh yeah, and the fact that build volume hasn't changed in several years. Do you people only make toys? So far for me, it's a ho-hum announcement.

You're welcome - it only occurred to me as a result of reading this discussion.

I also have a very similar issue, and this is with a Bondtech extruder. Pulled the coupler and it was fine - a 1/8" drill bit passed through without obstruction. Atomic pull gives a nice clean inside-of-nozzle shape. Other thoughts, anyone?

If filament building up and sticking to the nozzle is an issue, why not just wipe the nozzle with silicone lube before printing? That gets the non-stick all the way up to the rim of the nozzle, and should work even better than silicone rubber. (It works nicely, BTW - it's part of my pre-print warmup routine now.)

Ultimaker has been lying about the printable volume since the Ultimaker 2 was announced.

Why not just wipe the nozzle with some silicone before printing to avoid material sticking to it?

shapeways.com

I've also seen poor first-layer adhesion to the printbed when printing that first layer too slowly - 35mm/sec seems like a good starting number.

You are adding enough weight that I'd expect the whole plate to resonate at a slower frequency, i.e. it might not damp down to zero before printing of the next layer begins, and could give "echos" from that delayed motion.

I'd also buy several. I have the same issue with white ABS.

I'm wondering if perhaps the OP is simply describing retraction?

Finally - a complete description. Thanks!

The title says it all. This term is thrown around occasionally here, and appears in tinkergnomes firmware but I've not found any real description of what it refers to. What is "babystepping"?