Titus

I'm also in the proces of designing a little wheeled box trolly flightcase thingie for my UMO

Well yes, but with the Mini you don't keep the same/more functionality...

Do you want them drawn? I kinda like the photo's too! But so basically you want someone to create 8 images in the same style, corresponding to the themes(homepage, products page (Ultimaker 2 Family hero image), Ultimaker 2 page, Ultimaker Original page, materials page and software page)?

I don't really get why you would want a smaller one. IMO the Original with the printed handle is portable enough. I take it by bike and train to the ultievenings But I'm curious to see it IRL, it is said to be really cute!

Nice backdated post Sander And I agree with Xeno, it's not very clear what you want us to draw/sketch/mockup.

I wonder how the site will look like tomorrow And also the forums I guess.

Blecheimer, what kind of fans did you use? I tried the UM stock fan, that didn't have enough airflow to get air out of those ducts. Then I bought two new fans that were supposed to have a higher airflow(not really noticable), but they can't get air out of the duct either.

So, I made my 7812 board to take 19V from the LEDs pins and convert it to 12V to power the IKEA Dioder leds. It works! http://i.imgur.com/5IaEPrW.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Utkj96h.jpg It uses 0.22A @ 12V. The heat sink looks kinda overkill, but the 7V difference times 0.22A is still roughly 1.5W and it got pretty hot. Better safe than sorry. It works with a manual switch to turn the leds on and off, but is hackable to use Gcode if need be later on.

I have these underway as a backup to my breaking sensor: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/3D-printer-accessories-Ultimaker-K-type-thermocouple/2026055640.html

Does the size of the Elco's matter Kit? From what I understand it would only take longer to 'fill up'. So taking a 1000uF in stead of a 10uF? Or will that introduce stability issues? Isn't the 19V already stable and filtered? I can't seem to find smaller caps here at home. I do have the 0.1uF though. I also seem to find enough diagrams where they just hook up the 0.1uF's without the elco's.

Oh Sander, mobile version of the forum ?

The simplicity just hit me like a brick

Hm, I see your problem. You have 2 shells, an inner and an outer shell. They are printed and in between infill is printed. But since it's at some percentage, it only prints at certain locations, jumbing from one place to another. Enabling combing would help a bit, but you probably want to use another setting, my bad in advising spiralize. You need to check the black magic setting: only follow mesh surface. That's what I use for cookie cutters, it skips infill, top and bottom layers Titus

Ik ga vandaag plastic2print performa PLA testen, will let you know

@Sander, Top! Mijn huidige oplossing werkt in principe ook. Nee ik bedoelde ook niet dat meenemen naar Ulti-evenings standaard zou moeten worden, maar voor zo'n uitzonderings situatie is het handig om te weten dat jullie beiden op de Ulti-evening zijn Maar ik snap gewoon niet dat dit soort dingen kunnen blijven gebeuren. De post heeft er blijkbaar ook een handje van, maar de verpakkingen zijn blijkbaar niet bestand tegen het geweld. Dit laat me wel extra twijfelen over het aanschaffen van een upgrade :(

Nou, dat was makkelijker dan opsturen Ik ben er ook weer bij. UMO hack tijd @Sander, had jij nog zo'n zwart plastic injection mold ding + witte+blauwe bowden tube dingetje ergens liggen?

I think your images are set to private. You could try the spiralize option?

Wauw Blizz... Dit is echt absurd. @Blizz, ben je morgen toevallig bij de Ulti-evening?

Anyone coming by car from the neighborhood of Rotterdam/The Hague/Delft?

My apologies for the short reply, but I'd stay away from ABS, especially since the fumes are not the healthiest. I also work with kids and print PLA exclusively(or Colorfab XT which is also save). As for the robot question. I printed 25 of these with 3 kilo of PLA. Note that I had some failed overnight prints that cost quite some material, and there was plenty left for kids to design some stuff too. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:170932

It's a welding nozzle, for Mig/Mag type welding: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gas_metal_arc_welding Anyway, like Tommyph1208 said, If you insulate that it might even be working (except loss of build height). Or in anycase, print a different fan shroud. Now you are cooling your nozzle

Got another one: This somehow always occures in the Cura subforum

Those things will take a while to get here Also I have no clue whether they live up to the quality. UM2's PTFE were glass fiber reinforced lately. I doubt china stuff is ok quality. Take a look at this topic. 22nd of December there is an Ulti-Evening in ProtoSpace, Fablab Utrecht. Apart from learning usefull things, meeting staff, learning tricks from others, doing small upgrades and meeting and other enthousiasts. I believe Nallath was going to sell PTFE"s without shipping costs if you order in the topic http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/8599-ulti-evening-22nd-of-december-2014/?p=82063

Lol, these people show up everywhere: "6.7 - This printer is fantastic" Why would you rate it 6,7 if it's fantastic, what else is above ? Anyway, Im not sure what they mean with running cost, but I think UM did well

It says old on the edge, and I doubt it's cheese