Titus

@Sander, ben jij er bij deze keer? In hoeverre heeft een tumbler @ Ulti-evening eigenlijk zin. De voorwerpen moeten er toch minimaal een nachtje in voor een echte mooie afwerken(zie Barnacules/Jerry video: )

Tumbleeeeeeeeer! Wel een rotational he, niet vibrational thumbler!

Thats because the last line is still part of the URL somehow: This should do http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23835

Wow, quite a big announcement. It's a shame that getting it to work is so hard. I hope you guys have ideas on how to do it in UM3 and ofcourse the kit for UMO(+). Regardless, the decision to ship nozzles and PTFE with UM2's is wise, but what about UMO(+)? Also I really like the stories! And I hope to keep seeing cool Ulti-evenings with the crew.

Just two short questions for you UMO owners out there: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Hot_end_v2 makes me believe the bowden tube lock goes in the wood directly, while https://shop.ultimaker.com/Content/Images/Articles/Um-1_11.png shows a black injection mold piece: Since I don't have the black part(but do have the lock thanks to Daid!!!) Can it actually go in the wood like that ? I've never seen that in any UMO. Also, I noticed the PEEK in the store is quite dark, and mine is quite light, has there been a change in PEEK since like 1-2 years?

Hmm, time to join in on the fun. Never really had trouble with extruding other than for things that probably have different reasons. During my UMO maintenance round I opened up my hotend to find this: Left=used spare that has a little deformation on the other side Right=current teflon. The hole is now 3,5-5mm conic hole instead of 3-3.2mm. I can't really find any deformations and I'm not sure to what extend this would cause trouble on a UMO. I've been printing PLA only and quite a lot of Glowfill from Colorfabb

@Gr5, it now also starts to happen with my old sensor! I'll have a look into the PCB with my multimeter

I "heard somewhere" that super glue also does a good job as long as it can stand some heat. I've been using that for a while now and every now and then it falls off again. Never had problems with skipping though.

I believe you "could just" snap the wires from the switch, desolder them, use proper wire, and relocate the switch to where you want. That being said, you need a basic understanding of soldering and electronics to not mess up things. The external power switch is advised.

Depending on your hot end/feeder: Bowden tube collet locks! possibly even a bownden tube(if it gets squashed or something)

Ik had ja moeten roepen en mezelf als slachtoffer op werpen voor het kopen van de printer voor reserve onderdelen voor een prikie @ontopic: Paul, is het gelukt?

@TinkerGnome, editting those would most certainly work, but would there also be a risk I wonder. @Gr5 The almost broken sensor does not lag, so it's probably not the PCB, but something internal in the sensor.

@David, yeah, they range from 0-100%

This: http://i.imgur.com/s4i06Dp.jpg%20? Note all four leds are on, the right two are from a different batch

Hi all, From the other threads I've seen on Min temp errors, this is a different one. I encountered a min temp once when I came in from the cold and wanted to start printing. After it was warmed up to like 10-15 degrees it worked fine again. However, I got a new temp sensor since the wires of the old one were kinda broken. When I power up my UM1, it shows 3 deg C, and within like a second or two it jumps to room temperature. BUT it gave a min temp error since it started on 3 dec C. When I heat the nozzle up to like 90 deg C, and power off, power on, it starts on 20 deg C and jumps to 90, WITHOUT giving the min temp error since it never was below the threshold. So it seems there is some kind of lag in the correct signal coming from the sensor. It's workable, but frustrating to having to power on, heat, power off, power on your printer before you can start printing. Anyone a clue how to fix it?

Het klinkt inderdaad als http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#shifted of http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#leaning Dus zoals 3Tjes al zei, even met een imbusje je pulleys goed vast draaien

Kan je die misschien linken, want ik snap niet zo goed wat je precies bedoelt

Yeah, I remoddeled it in Solidworks

They are every 6 weeks, but since this one was a week early, it might be 7 weeks this time

Lol, did you have to do that?

I thought the 8 teams were related to the pages, not the things StudioSpass came up with? Also, I don;t think they will be printed and photographed, it's the artwork itself going up the site right?

I took a look at the lab in one of the faculties of Delft University of Technology(the Industrial Design building) where they used to have 1 UMO: http://i.imgur.com/s4i06Dp.jpg Yeah, 4 UM2's Also, the Mechanical Engineering lab dumped their makerbots and is ordering UM2's also Notice the difference in LED's in between the two pairs they ordered. Any clue how to fix that? Anyhow, they now allow ALL students from their faculty to print stuff for FREE. During this period of the semester, the end, it's booked for TWO WEEKS in ADVANCE Really like what they are doing. @Sander, might be a fun idea to reach out, they all have so many UM's now together, printing nonstop, for an article and also for R&D since they didn';t mod a single thing(and they are also using UM filament).

That explains a lot David, thanks for clarifying.

I don't get the entire "designed for 0 g "thing, reversing gravity doesn't change anything that requires a new design. All you can do is bridge better

Razer with OSVR, and their android TV is quite fun. And that new Dell laptop looks sick!