Labern

Looks great. Where did you get the anti-backlash nut?

It needs a test, are you interested? Tinker V16.03 Choose the variant "Tinker-MarlinUltimaker2go-HBK-16.03.hex" Awesome, I will try it out today. Thanks

the bed heats up then the nozzle. Even on the other UM2's the bead heats up before the nozzle so the nozzle doesnt sit there oozing and emptying the chamber while its waiting for the bed. But seeing that the UM2go has a small power supply then it was made to heat seperate to protect the power supply. It will seem weird at first but it works well. It takes about 3mins for it to heat up for PLA and a bit longer for ABS temps. When cooled down the parts lift off like they are just sitting on the glass. If its still warm (even 45deg) then it will be stuck hard. The bed is controlled on the machine by custom firmware that you get from the Gr5 Store. There are 2 versions. standard and Tinkerware. I recommend the Tinkerware version. the version can be a bit behind the original Tinkerware versions. so it would be nice if Tinkergnome started including it in his releases so it keeps up to date.

Its not just flat surfaces. Its also less stringing, Better corners and less z scaring. The amount of difference is small but every bit counts.

I use it and it's great. You will have longer start times as you have to wait for the heat bed to heat up first. Also due to the nature of the heat bed you need to set I higher then the standard um2 heat bed. Yes you can print without glue but you need to make sure it's leveled well and don't have fans come on 2 quickly. I use gluestick and it lasts over 1 month and is not messy. The reason I use it as I also print with nGen. That's the best thing about the heated bed. You can print with more materials. The kit comes with a 35w heater which is another great upgrade. I actually installed a 50w in mine instead which makes the start up times super fast but this is not required. As I own a UM2 then converting the UM2GO was a must.

You can find all that info under the related machine name Here but as Neotko says the UM2+ model info is normally released 6 months after the machine release.

Just to kill my own curiosity All 0.4mm, Top E3D, Middle Ultimaker, bottom 3D Solex.

I eould say that the tollerances are close enough not to worry about. Also twist drills don't create round holes. So you want to get really picky they would need to be laser drilled or eb drilled or something to be more accurate. But in the end it looks like UM have done a lot of tests and found that setting the line width in the new cura lower then the actual size improves the quality of the prints. After my tests I would have to agree. I have a bunch of E3d, 3Dsolex and um ones so will comparing 10 of each prove whether nozzle hole accuracy will have any effect or not in the line width theory be enough? I don't have S3D so I can't compare it to the new cura. The title of this topic is for old cura so it can be tested with that.

When using sketchup always use these 2 plugins: cleanup3 (may be 4 now) Solid inspector. Both of these plugins remove any problems with the model unseen by the eye and turn it into a solid model. But I would recommend to use a different design program as its not suitable for 3d printing.

That looks nice. Great

Yes that probably is true but it's about line width vs nozzle size. If you had printed it with a 0.7 line width it may have looked even nicer.

I have not sit down to get my head around all of this yet. Seeing the new cura has: Nozzle Size, Line Width and Wall Thickness is kind of confusing to think of the best way to get the results you want depending on the print you have. Seeing this topic i just ran some tests with the benchy boat. All have the same settings except I have altered the line width and wall thickness. note that i kept the nozzle size to 0.4 They were printed at 0.2 layer height, 210deg and 50mm/s So the end result may vary if you alter any of these settings. Based on the 0.46 setting I started by printing with a line width of 0.34 which is 0.06 under the nozzle size, then 0.40 line width followed by 0.46. I did one test with the wall thickness twice the nozzle width and another twice the line thickness. But in the end i was surprised but the end result as it was the opposite to what i was expecting. Both of the 0.34 line width results are the best out of all of them and progressively get worse from there. I guess the next test is to alter the nozzle size??

There have been a few reports lately with lumpy bearings and or sloppy z axis nuts. I would first check your model in layer view just to make sure its all good. Then raise and lower the bed up and down by hand to see if you can fee a tight spot. its normally repeated at a set distance as the balls complete one round of the inner race inside the bearing. Next you can raise and lower the bed small amounts without the z axis turning to check the play in the z nut. You may needs to remove the linear bearing individually from the bed and raise them on there own to feel any problems. If you want to print something in the mean time just put a weight on the back of the bed and see if that helps.

Whattt - so i have been suffering for a whole year with an inferior feeder when a better one was out there

I used coconut oil on mine and it gave great results

It's smells nice when you print with it You can darken bits with a flame like my cannon and it's more soft then PLA is what I have found. It's a nice use of the filament @skinny-kid did you find corkfill easy to print with?

Haha you beat Robert on the first mod.

shenandoah is a really nice place, i loved it there. Nice useful print. Good job.

Is it tangles or just tightly wound. Its always good to not let the filament loose especailly when stored, you can print some like This to hold it in place so it wont get tangled. If they are just tightly wound then a low friction spool holder can help and a stronger feeder like the new + models or bondtech

This can be changed in your firmware so it will print from Z0 not Zmax.

Is the 0.4mm ring at the bottom in Cura? You are better to make the ring .41mm and then it will print fine. If it's a single wall thickness the same as the nozzle size the Cura won't print it. So if the .4 is at the bottom then it will only print the 0.8 mm which is higher up. Always check layer View before you print anything.

You should contact the company where you got the nozzle from. Is this the original style nozzle or the olsson heater block?

No fair We haven't even had a chance to try it yet. Would be funny if there was an upgrade design before most people get the kit.

Your fans are starting very high. The should start on like the 3rd layer the progressively get to 100% by the 10 lever or so.

I hear specsavers is cheap It's all good. I have done the same before.