Labern

Just looks like a MIG welding tip. I have people use them before as emergency nozzles.

well they wont tell us when the next machine will be released until its ready, so you may be waiting for ages. The UM2 Extended + is an awesome machine so you cant go wrong there. Its taken 2 years for UM to release a better feeder, more powerfull heater, better coupler setup etc.. I say just get the UM2E+ and if a new machine comes out then let everyone else find any problems with it. Then after a few years UM will release another + to fix the new machines problems and by that time you maybe ready for another machine But dont blame me if they release a new machine within the next month

It is tempered glass

Supports can always be a bit of an issue with complicated shapes. There are more support options in Cura 1.99 and i find support roof of 80% can give a really nice finish but this normally only helps on flat surfaces. I would recommend using a smaller nozzle size like .25 as this makes supports a whole lot easier to remove as it is finer strands. being smaller the print time is longer but you can speed up the print speed a bit and you can keep the .1mm layer height a the 3 x shell thickness ( 0.75mm ), so overall the time is not effected to much. another option is to use supports generated by mesh mixer. it has a different approach and you can add and remove where you think its needed.

I used to have one of these when i was young: So this just got me thinking. what about a nozzle with a hot pin that sticks down that you can use to cut foam. one with a short spring loaded pin with a rounded end could also be used to engraving wood as long as it doesn't dig in to much.

what about some nozzles with similar size to 1mm but with wire-cut crazy shapes like piping tips At larger layer heights it could give some interesting effects. This sounds like a fun project. What we need is some nozzle blanks ( solid right to the top of the thread ) that we can experiment with. Ones that work best for flexi materials is definitely at the top of the list seeing there are some different hard ones available.

I would hold it back with a blob of hot glue.

Yes 90 meters is about right

Feeding cold plastic into the head cools it. the faster you feed it in the more it cools. If the heater isn't strong enough to keep up with heating demand of the cool plastic coming in and the fans blowing on the nozzle then the temp will drop. But as i said there is a limit of temp that you apply or you start burning the plastic that touches the inner walls of the heater block.

TFT couplers is the main thing you would need. Everything else is quite durable

very interesting results, thanks

You could do this with the swap at Z plugin in the legacy cura

Wiring an addition stepper is easy. you can look on the UM git hub at the board diagram to see where it all wires in. I think its labeled on the board anyway. You can use CURA for dual extrusion and it is open source. If you use your nozzle idea it should work just fine. Simplify just more settings to play with.

If you loosen the thumb screws it allows you to push the bowden down a bit which can loosen it from the grip.

I had to do the same change on one of my machines as the fan shroud would hit the right side of the machine.

Glad its working, I was also stressed hoping i didnt give you advice that killed your machine

from what end are you struggling with? From the head, if you heat up the nozzle first then, loosen the 4 thumb screws. this makes it easier to come out if filament is stuck.

Have you moved the head into the middle and then selected a print job?

there are syringe holders on youmagine that you can print. then if you buy another feeder motor, drive wheel and bowden tube (just print the rest of the feeder) you can run it as a dual extrusion printer. Cura does have dual extrusion capabilities but you might be best to use simplify 3d software.

Make sure after bending it that the switch still clicks without the anything colliding when you move it by hand.

with the head homed, look under the top in that position. you can move the head with the machine off and you will hear them "click" as you move it in and out of the corner. in the very top plate of the machine you will see to screws close together that hold one of the switches.

You can move the limit switch for that axis or bend the metal to tongue on the switch so it clicks when the head is closer to the side wall. When the head homes it resets the 0 position.

Maybe I read this wrong but the UM2 extended+ already has a heated bed. So you can also save some penny's there.

I agree that its not solely z scar. but i don't think its because its to hot as if it was the top would be overheated or worse then the bottom. Could it be due to the infill? seeing that is sloped the position that it would meet the infill would change as it goes up? But also unlikely. Have you tried turning the object 45deg on the bed? Have you looked in x-ray mode to see if there is an issue with the model?

How would i do this check? Disconnect the switch and put your meter onto the Continuity Beeper setting. measure between the 2 wires and switch the switch. your meter should only beep when the switch is pressed in. If you don't have a meter you can use a battery and a light and connect them all in series. when you push in the switch the light should go on. Do you mean to disconnect the switch from the motherboard? Or just take the screws out from the top of the switch? What end am i measuring the wires ...the motherboard end or the switch end? Disconnect it from the motherboard and check the wires you removed at the motherboard end. If this shows that it's not switching then check it at the terminals on the switch. This way you can check the wires and the switch. the wires could have been squashed or something causing the issue.